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  1. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    22,658
    #1
    Saan ba pwede kumuha ng kuryente yung fuel pump?

    Ganito kasi yun, yung antique fuel pump (ewan ko kung vacuum/mechanical) ng '46 Ford ay natitigok na. Ito yung fuel pump na may 'baso' pa.

    Bumili yung father ko ng Japanese replacement fuel pump (Maruzen?). Na-hook na namin sa fuel line and sa dun sa carb. Kaso hindi namin alam kung paano kukuha ng power. Nilagay namin yung wires dun sa + at - bolts ng coil pero ayaw umandar ng pump. For testing purposes, nirekta na lang namin sa battery yung fuel pump. Umandar naman siya and nag-start yung sasakyan. Kaso hindi naman pwedeng habang buhay na naka-rekta yun sa battery.

    Saan kaya ito pwede i-tap? Salamat.

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  2. Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    337
    #2
    This is the thread that i don't wanna give any comment.

  3. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    2,716
    #3
    assuming the conventional negative grounded chassis system kagaya nung 55 chevy namin noong araw ...

    + of fuel pump connects to + of ignition coil

    - of fuel pump connects to chassis ground

    hindi nga aandar sa ginawa nyong connection doc otep kasi yung (-) ng coil is connected to contact point, not to chassis ground ... although when the engine is not running, the contact point is usually shorted to ground ... which will initially make the pump work, but pump will stop running as soon as the distributor starts to rotate and the contact point gets into the cyclic on/off action (depriving constant power to the pump)

    with the above suggested connection, power to the pump is supplied whenever the key is in the ON & START position ... if the fuse for ignition busts due to the additional load, simply increase the fuse rating ... the original wiring for ignition should be able to carry the additional load (overrated ang mga wires sa oto noong araw)

    hth

  4. Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    337
    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by kinyo View Post
    assuming the conventional negative grounded chassis system kagaya nung 55 chevy namin noong araw ...

    + of fuel pump connects to + of ignition coil

    - of fuel pump connects to chassis ground

    hindi nga aandar sa ginawa nyong connection doc otep kasi yung (-) ng coil is connected to contact point, not to chassis ground ... although when the engine is not running, the contact point is usually shorted to ground ... which will initially make the pump work, but pump will stop running as soon as the distributor starts to rotate and the contact point gets into the cyclic on/off action (depriving constant power to the pump)

    with the above suggested connection, power to the pump is supplied whenever the key is in the ON & START position ... if the fuse for ignition busts due to the additional load, simply increase the fuse rating ... the original wiring for ignition should be able to carry the additional load (overrated ang mga wires sa oto noong araw)

    hth

    Make sense.Good job.

  5. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    3,790
    #5
    the best is direct sa battery terminal ang positive...kung walang provision at kung gusto mo malinis, dun mo itap sa positive ng starter....pero suggest that you add a circuit breaker/fuse at relay.

  6. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    3,790
    #6
    body ground nalang....btw it could be different kung positive ground ang wiring ng oto mo!

  7. Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    2,059
    #7
    did I get it correctly sa ignition coil kinabit?

    the coil should get all the power it needs, it does not help it that there is a parasite grabbing power from the coil.

    Suggest that you wire a relay with bigger wires from the battery and the fuel pump. using the ignition as in ignition switch as the one that will trigger the relay for the power to pass from the batt to the pump.

    This way when you put the ignition to on the pump will start then when you turn off the engine the pump will also turn off.

  8. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    22,658
    #8
    Sinubukan din nga pala namin yung coil to body ground. Ayaw pa din. Maybe it's the wires nga and/or the absence of a relay.

    Dapat siguro humanap kami ng wire na 'hot' lang when the ignition is ON. Tama ba?

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  9. Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    337
    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by OTEP View Post
    Sinubukan din nga pala namin yung coil to body ground. Ayaw pa din. Maybe it's the wires nga and/or the absence of a relay.

    Dapat siguro humanap kami ng wire na 'hot' lang when the ignition is ON. Tama ba?
    Maybe you should tap into HU. wild guess.

  10. Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    635
    #10
    you can use a relay: pin 30 B+ hot all times, pin 86 B+ hot in run(ignition on), pin 85 chassis ground, pin 87 supply to pump+, pump - to chassis ground. use a relay with diode or resistor. this set-up however is not safe if ever there will be collision since the pump will continue to run unless the ign switch is turned off. you can however address this if you can purchase an inertia switch (like ford car) that will shut down the fuel pump in case of collision. other set-up for newer cars is; the ground supply to the relay coil is being controlled by the ecu (ecu will cut-off the ground if it doesnt detect engine rotation) this i'm not quite sure for your car being a 1946 model.

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Help: Electric Fuel Pump Installation