Help: Electric Fuel Pump Installation

[OTEP]

Saan ba pwede kumuha ng kuryente yung fuel pump?

Ganito kasi yun, yung antique fuel pump (ewan ko kung vacuum/mechanical) ng '46 Ford ay natitigok na. Ito yung fuel pump na may 'baso' pa.

Bumili yung father ko ng Japanese replacement fuel pump (Maruzen?). Na-hook na namin sa fuel line and sa dun sa carb. Kaso hindi namin alam kung paano kukuha ng power. Nilagay namin yung wires dun sa + at - bolts ng coil pero ayaw umandar ng pump. For testing purposes, nirekta na lang namin sa battery yung fuel pump. Umandar naman siya and nag-start yung sasakyan. Kaso hindi naman pwedeng habang buhay na naka-rekta yun sa battery.

Saan kaya ito pwede i-tap? Salamat.

[ronald_m]

This is the thread that i don't wanna give any comment.

[kinyo]

assuming the conventional negative grounded chassis system kagaya nung 55 chevy namin noong araw ...

+ of fuel pump connects to + of ignition coil

- of fuel pump connects to chassis ground

hindi nga aandar sa ginawa nyong connection doc otep kasi yung (-) ng coil is connected to contact point, not to chassis ground ... although when the engine is not running, the contact point is usually shorted to ground ... which will initially make the pump work, but pump will stop running as soon as the distributor starts to rotate and the contact point gets into the cyclic on/off action (depriving constant power to the pump)

with the above suggested connection, power to the pump is supplied whenever the key is in the ON & START position ... if the fuse for ignition busts due to the additional load, simply increase the fuse rating ... the original wiring for ignition should be able to carry the additional load (overrated ang mga wires sa oto noong araw)

hth

[ronald_m]

assuming the conventional negative grounded chassis system kagaya nung 55 chevy namin noong araw ...

+ of fuel pump connects to + of ignition coil

- of fuel pump connects to chassis ground

hindi nga aandar sa ginawa nyong connection doc otep kasi yung (-) ng coil is connected to contact point, not to chassis ground ... although when the engine is not running, the contact point is usually shorted to ground ... which will initially make the pump work, but pump will stop running as soon as the distributor starts to rotate and the contact point gets into the cyclic on/off action (depriving constant power to the pump)

with the above suggested connection, power to the pump is supplied whenever the key is in the ON & START position ... if the fuse for ignition busts due to the additional load, simply increase the fuse rating ... the original wiring for ignition should be able to carry the additional load (overrated ang mga wires sa oto noong araw)

hth

Make sense.Good job.

[wildthing]

the best is direct sa battery terminal ang positive...kung walang provision at kung gusto mo malinis, dun mo itap sa positive ng starter....pero suggest that you add a circuit breaker/fuse at relay.

[wildthing]

body ground nalang....btw it could be different kung positive ground ang wiring ng oto mo!

[ARB]

did I get it correctly sa ignition coil kinabit?

the coil should get all the power it needs, it does not help it that there is a parasite grabbing power from the coil.

Suggest that you wire a relay with bigger wires from the battery and the fuel pump. using the ignition as in ignition switch as the one that will trigger the relay for the power to pass from the batt to the pump.

This way when you put the ignition to on the pump will start then when you turn off the engine the pump will also turn off.

[OTEP]

Sinubukan din nga pala namin yung coil to body ground. Ayaw pa din. Maybe it's the wires nga and/or the absence of a relay.

Dapat siguro humanap kami ng wire na 'hot' lang when the ignition is ON. Tama ba?

[ronald_m]

Sinubukan din nga pala namin yung coil to body ground. Ayaw pa din. Maybe it's the wires nga and/or the absence of a relay.

Dapat siguro humanap kami ng wire na 'hot' lang when the ignition is ON. Tama ba?

Maybe you should tap into HU. wild guess.

[t2erns]

you can use a relay: pin 30 B+ hot all times, pin 86 B+ hot in run(ignition on), pin 85 chassis ground, pin 87 supply to pump+, pump - to chassis ground. use a relay with diode or resistor. this set-up however is not safe if ever there will be collision since the pump will continue to run unless the ign switch is turned off. you can however address this if you can purchase an inertia switch (like ford car) that will shut down the fuel pump in case of collision. other set-up for newer cars is; the ground supply to the relay coil is being controlled by the ecu (ecu will cut-off the ground if it doesnt detect engine rotation) this i'm not quite sure for your car being a 1946 model.

[kinyo]

there could be a resistor before the (+) of ignition coil ... hence you should connect to the (+) of resistor, not on coil

[OTEP]

I guess the best option at the moment would be to wire directly into the battery and use a relay.

I'll probably tap the trigger wire of the relay into the coil or before the resistor (basically anything that gets 'hot' when the key is turned on).

Ok yung paliwanag ni sir t2erns, sobrang detalyado, per pin na! hehehe.

I hope this works, balitaan ko kayo. Salamat.

[kinyo]

doc otep, ilang amperes ang kailangan ng fuel pump?

[OTEP]

doc otep, ilang amperes ang kailangan ng fuel pump?

Nakupo hinahanap ko nga sa box iyan. Alam mo naman ang replacement parts napaka-informative ng packaging. Parang hindi indicated, eh.

Ito yung fuel pump na popular sa mga owner type jeeps. hehehe.

[kinyo]

good luck ... i agree that using a relay is the best way to wire the pump

ford 46 ... dba parang ganyan yung sasakyan ni manuel quezon?

[OTEP]

Ito po siya:


With cargo:

[niky]

Does it supply enough fuel? Di ba V8 ung car na yun?

What about having a separate line with a fuel pump switch installed on the car? Puwede pang anti-theft device siya?

BTW, it's been a long time since I saw that car... parang nakita ko sa Marikina dati... nice job!

[OTEP]

Yup. Kaya nung Maruzen na fuel pump since mas malakas ito kahit dun sa original pump niya.

Bihira kasi magamit lately dahil nga sa fuel pump issue. Pero bago na ang mga gulong and ok na brakes ulit.

[kinyo]

ganda ng oto ... ganda din ng cargo

medyo misaligned ang hood/trim ng oto ... perfect alignment ng cargo

sarap kalikutin yung oto ... ganun din yung cargo

meron yang de-tubo na radio? hindi pa kasi naimbento ang solid-state nung 1946 kahit yung chevy 55 detubo pa rin am radio nya although naimbento ang transistor noong 1948

[OTEP]

Hindi na po de-tubo and radio niyan. Modern na po. Stealth-mounted na CD player. Meron ding a/c.