DIY: How to make your own Electronic Ignition for contact point engines

[Lan0520]

It last 2 yrs. sa akin. '92 L300 vv gas/LPG.

Pero after ko mabasa ito, bumigay Ang capacitor 1000microF. Nag-ground yata sa body?!!

Talaga bang may current ang Heatsink??? Lakas eh. nabuhay lahat.:ooops:

Available pa rin sa Alexan.

I'm not expert on electronics, kaya pinagawa ko sa Alexan.

Pinakamahal na part ay MJ10015(P500+). Plus P150 labor. Wala ng Motorola.

Kahit saang Alexan puwede makuha after repair...

PERO! Ayaw nila gawin pag di intact ang parts.

FYI.

[adasma]

Sir Lan0520,

Wala bang modifications ang Alexan sa E.I. Kit? Tinanggal ko kse ung sa akin kse d talaga kaya ng ignition coil ko..mayadong umiinit ang coil...
Tnx.

[duskylim]

It last 2 yrs. sa akin. '92 L300 vv gas/LPG.

Pero after ko mabasa ito, bumigay Ang capacitor 1000microF. Nag-ground yata sa body?!!

Talaga bang may current ang Heatsink??? Lakas eh. nabuhay lahat.:ooops:

Available pa rin sa Alexan.

I'm not expert on electronics, kaya pinagawa ko sa Alexan.

Pinakamahal na part ay MJ10015(P500+). Plus P150 labor. Wala ng Motorola.

Kahit saang Alexan puwede makuha after repair...

PERO! Ayaw nila gawin pag di intact ang parts.

FYI.

Dear Lan:

I am not familiar with the Alexan design.... can you post or e-mail that to me...

Most electronic capacitors have 2 wires + and -, therefore they are not supposed to be grounded.

The only ones that I know to be grounded are the condensers used in automotive applications + for the lead wire and - to the body ground

Dusky

[bongski214]

Dear Lan:

I am not familiar with the Alexan design.... can you post or e-mail that to me...

Most electronic capacitors have 2 wires + and -, therefore they are not supposed to be grounded.

The only ones that I know to be grounded are the condensers used in automotive applications + for the lead wire and - to the body ground

Dusky

Sir, the electronic components are soldered to a pcb, i think he was referring to what happened "after ko mabasa to"( he got it wet) the caps and power transistor(mj10015) got busted.

[duskylim]

Dear bongski:

Thanks for clearing that up.

It seems to me that there are a lot of problems using transistorized ignitions for standard coils - the heating issue.

I recommend that you use a very conservatively designed coil - like the old black Nippondenso's with the square ballast resistor.

Don't by-pass the resistor and check very carefully the dwell angle you're using, try to use the smallest practical dwell angel to keep the turn-on times shorter.

If the coil still heats up try using a higher ohm ballast resistor (available at Raon - just specify the amperage you want).

Using a a ballast resistor with higher ohm rating should control the current very effectively in the coil.

Hope this helps,

Dusky Lim

[dr. d]

we played around with transistorized ignition on our beetle many years ago. it worked fine. no bulutong on the contact points. easier starting. then one day, the engine died. no amount of coaxing re-started it. the culprit: dirty contact points. it seems, the hi voltage of the traditional kettering system also served to clean the contact points of dirt. when we installed transistorized ignition, the hi voltage that used to clean the points, was not there anymore. after some time, dirt built up and prevented the electrical contact from occuring. engine stalled. the solution was to simply clean the points at regular intervals. i guess that is why manufacturers shifted to optical or magnetic distributors..

[Chinoi]

I'm building Multiple spark CDI and its already working. I installed it in my Lancer EL 1996 4g15. I still use the original Distributor with magnetic pickup sensor and built-in Ignition coil. THe CDI can produce 6 sparks at low rpm and gradually reduced spark as it the rpm increases. Ignition voltage on primary of ignition coil was 400V or equivalent of 40kv on the secondary of ignition coil.
But I'm encountering intermittent misfire and found out that high voltage noise was pickup by cdi trigger circuit and causing it to misfire. CDI was now again in my working table for modification of trigger circuit. Already made modification of the trigger circuit to isolate it from high voltage noise. Have to transfer new component to a small pcb.

Just to inform you that CDI will not cause overheating of Ignition coil. Because spark voltage was charge in Capacitor and not in the Ignition coil.

[bongski214]

Hope you've fixed that misfire on your cdi, i googled some schematics on multiple spark ignition before but found it hard to source out the parts here, might have been a good diy to tinker with on my lazy hours.
It seems that ignition coil is the sticking point on electronic ignition builds, but YMMV, i have used an old(got it used) Bosch red coil from day 1 I installed alexans kit, drove w/ it w/out the ballast resistor and never had a problem.

[Chinoi]

I have a friend from Mitsulancer forum who also built the Alexan Electronic Ignition and ask for my assistance. I've able to make it work by replacing the NE555 ic.

Actually, the original schematic of the multiple spark cdi from the internet have a lot of problem. Aside from it very hard to source the main spare parts needed. I've able to make it work but encountered following problem..

1.The 22 khz inverter will stop if +dc supply was below 10V.
2. Power FET transistor will not last an hour and get shorted due to high current ( 6Amp ).
3. Intermittent misfire from high voltage noise.

I've solved problem 1 & 2 by modifying components ,circuit and almost 60% of original circuit. Now. my cdi consumes 0.8A at 800 rpm and 2.5A at high rpm.

I hope my new circuit for noise isolation circuit will correct the 3rd problem on actual test on my car or else i'll convert it to single spark to solve the problem.

[bravokilo]

I still make them. Been making EIS for over 25 years. Old price P2,500 installed. 0922 296 6288 or Globe 09163068924. Bong

[Chinoi]

My DIY Multiple Spark CDIS was now fully functional. Able to identify cause of misfiring and designed new circuit to correct problem. My last design revision was dated April 2012 and still working util now in my Lancer EL 1996.

It's now capable of 5 spark per cylinder at idling rpm, then slowly decrease to 2 spark per cylinder to the highset rpm with 40KV spark voltage.

[bravokilo]

Hi Friends:

Just installed my EIS on a Vitara last Sunday. Metal enclosure with 3 way switch CONVENTIONAL. ELECTRONIC, AND CENTER OFF.

Will be installing on a Gemini this coming weekend.

Next week will be on a L300 then a Combi.

My EIS is the inductive type, 2 transistors. Your contact point is still used but no more BULUTONG and the condenser is not needed altho kept in place when you switch over to conventional.

ONE ADVANTAGE OF THE INDUCTIVE TYPE USING THE CONTACT POINT IS YOU CAN SWITCH TO CONVENTIONAL

FREE CONSULTATION: BONG: 0922 296 6288


In many cases, I discover faults in the electrical system in cars like no resistor which cause overheating, no
bypassing the resistor when starting, faulty advancer (mechanical), wrong ignition coil wiring, wrong ignition coil.

Will be glad to identify problems and help you solve them.

[bravokilo]

Between CDI and the Inductive system, I chose to promote the latter. CDI has more parts to breakdown. The park duration is actually SHORTENED in a CDI. The corrections that the Inductive System introduces are: 1) no BULUTONG 2) consistent spark at high speeds.

The drawback of the standard contact point+condenser Kettering system are : pitting (bulutong) and reduced spark at high speed. Bulutongs deteriorate the efficiency of the system, causes fouling and inconsistent spark at idling. Reduced spark has something to do with dwell, the time the point is closed. The higher the speed, the shorter the time it is closed to charged up the coil. The electronic system, improves the charging time since the points are clean and it takes only a fraction the original current to fire up the coil.

Heating up of the coil is usually due to the absence of a dropping resistor. When cranking, there is a bypass wire directly connected to the coil which comes on. When starting is done, this line is disabled and the B+ via the resistor takes over. The reason for this design is to still get good spark at cranking when the battery voltage drops. The Bosh blue ignition coil used in VWs is a compromise in its operating voltage range. The coil with the resistor is still the best for me.

I have solved this problem for many clients. When the bypass line is not available from the ignition switch, a relay is made to short out the resistor and the relay is closed by the starter line to the solenoid.

Rarely but it can happen depending on the EIS used will a coil heat up.

BK 0922 296 6288