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  1. Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    570
    #1
    My DIY Multiple Spark CDIS was now fully functional. Able to identify cause of misfiring and designed new circuit to correct problem. My last design revision was dated April 2012 and still working util now in my Lancer EL 1996.

    It's now capable of 5 spark per cylinder at idling rpm, then slowly decrease to 2 spark per cylinder to the highset rpm with 40KV spark voltage.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mcdis.jpg  
    Last edited by Chinoi; November 9th, 2013 at 03:57 PM.

  2. Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    4
    #2
    Hi Friends:

    Just installed my EIS on a Vitara last Sunday. Metal enclosure with 3 way switch CONVENTIONAL. ELECTRONIC, AND CENTER OFF.

    Will be installing on a Gemini this coming weekend.

    Next week will be on a L300 then a Combi.

    My EIS is the inductive type, 2 transistors. Your contact point is still used but no more BULUTONG and the condenser is not needed altho kept in place when you switch over to conventional.

    ONE ADVANTAGE OF THE INDUCTIVE TYPE USING THE CONTACT POINT IS YOU CAN SWITCH TO CONVENTIONAL

    FREE CONSULTATION: BONG: 0922 296 6288


    In many cases, I discover faults in the electrical system in cars like no resistor which cause overheating, no
    bypassing the resistor when starting, faulty advancer (mechanical), wrong ignition coil wiring, wrong ignition coil.

    Will be glad to identify problems and help you solve them.

  3. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    21
    #3
    Argh, dun lang talaga, i have built and still uses one of this in my lite ace for more than a year, im trying to build one for my brother-in-law and still on the process of getting the parts.

    Yung mj10012 kasi available before when i built mine, but iirc mj10015 is whats on their specs.

    Thanks.

  4. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #4
    sir Chef as well as other fellows in this thread, is the alexan design reliable? if so,i'll try to make one for our dust collecting gas engine....time to hone my skills on gas and electronics as well.....nasanay sa diesel eh...hehe.....

  5. Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    33
    #5
    *MikeD

    To answer your question, I think it all boils down to the parts you installed. As much as we all want a "perfect" system, hindi talaga maiiwasan yung chamba sa mga pyesa. Kung medyo OCD ka sa parts, you can source out original parts & replace the generic ones found at Alexan.

    As for mine, I'm still using it right now & as far as performance goes, I'm really happy with it.
    In fact, sinugod ko siya sa konting baha(ankle deep) 2 days ago at around 50kph. Nagkaroon nga ng mini tsunami sa sidewalk(kung may nabasa man ako, sorry po talaga).. I ran it an additional 15min pa, then pulled over...popped the hood to check it. Nabasa nga siya due to tire splash...but it still did not short out. Either sealed lang talaga maigi casing ko or maybe the device can tolerate a bit of water.

    If I may suggest though... Do not remove the ballast resistor (contrary to the instructions in the Alexan Vol 4 book) to minimize wear on the coil. Kaya siguro marami nasusunugan ng coil dati. Always remember, kahit High Power pa yang coil mo...if its been running with the ballast resistor for more than 2 years na, baka hindi na yun sanay pag nilakasan mo bigla ang kuryente.

  6. Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6
    #6
    Good morning Chef Noob...
    I registered on this nice forum because of this topic, and becasue of ur discussions re: the Electronic Ignition System of Alexan..
    I installed one for my 70's beetle 6 years ago...but I decided to disable it due to the fact that most ignition coils I installed got burned out (I've tried Red, Silver and Blue Bosch coils). Currently, I installed another type of coil, yung walang oil...black lang siya na parang transformer...Ask ko lang, if I installed again my alexan ignition system, KAYA BA NG NEW IGNITION COIL KO?.
    And also please send me diagram on where to connect the terminals..kung saan papunta....D ko po kasi na documented b4 ko dinis-able ang system..sorry po.. :-)
    Post ko later pix ng system ko....
    Maraming salamat and more power.

    adasma

  7. Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    33
    #7
    *adasma
    I think the other red bosch coils you installed were actually better than the oil-less one you are about to install now so if indeed you burned those coils back then, I'm pretty sure it will burn this one.

    Try installing it with a ballast resistor in series with the ignition key & positive(+) terminal of your coil to reduce the current. This will help minimize the current passing through the coil & will make it less likely to heat up.

    With regards to the terminals, I cannot advice you fully on that since I was not the one who rigged it. However, if you can open the box & see where the wires attach to the board, maybe I can help.

    Basically, it has 4 wires...
    one wire going to the (-) of the coil
    one wire going to the contact points(with the condenser removed)
    one wire going to ground
    one wire going to the (+) of the coil or any power source that will activate upon turning of the ignition switch.

  8. Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6
    #8
    Chef Noob,
    Thank you very much for the reply.
    So, hindi po advisable na gamitin ko yung oil-less ignition coil ko?....Ano po ba ang reason ba't masyadong umiinit ang coil pag ginamitan nong alexan electronic ignition system?
    You mentioned na one wire to the contact points without the condenser....kailangan ko bang tanggalin ang condenser pag ikinabit ko ang ignition system? Nakakabit kase yung sa aking nang ikabit ko ang ignition system..hindi ba yon tama? baka yon ang cause ng overheating ng coil.
    Chef please bear with us newbies.. :-) alam ko kse kayo ang expert and am glad I found this forum.
    Thanks for the support.

  9. Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    33
    #9
    Trust me sir, I'm no expert...nagkataon lang na pinag aralan ko to kasi I'm too cheap to buy a Mallory Ignition.LOL!

    Yes, it is advisable to remove the condensor since with it in place, you MIGHT have problem when starting since it will absorb some load...Also, it MIGHT cause your contact points to grow some bulutong due to the current a condensor creates...HOWEVER, it will definately NOT cause your coil to heat up...

    My own personal observation, the only thing thats causing the coil to heat up is the removal of the ballast resistor. It increases the output of the coil but pushes it near near to its limits.
    Just attach a new one(or the existing one) to avoid coil heat up.

  10. Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6
    #10
    Expert ka sir, kase alam mo ang pasikot-sikot re: Alexan IS and nakakatulong ka sa tulad namin na bagohan lang... :-)
    May ballast resistor ngayon ang OIL-less ko na ignition coil. Sisigurohin ko lang ulit sir..if u won't mind..ibig mo bang sabihin is that tatanggalin ko ang condenser ko and then yung isang output wire na galing sa Electronic Ignition System ng Alexan ay papuntang contact point?
    Xenxa na po sa pagkukulit..Gusto ko kasing iinstall ulit ang ignition system ko sa beetle ko.
    Salamat po ulit...

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DIY: How to make your own Electronic Ignition for contact point engines