Overcurrent but Correct Voltage

**miked** · November 26th, 2013 02:01 PM

GOod day tsikot!

Vehicle Info before we proceed:
Mitsubishi L300 van (90s year model)...hindi ko makita yung dataplate eh.
with a -60/+60 Ampere range current gauge.
No extra bling-blings like fog lamps, high powered amplifiers etc....
fitted with a 110 ampere alternator (brand new). hindi ko rin makita brand name. sorry

Situation Report:
1. Right after starting, ampere gage shoots over +60 A then trickle down to less than 30 A.
2. With the A/C on (front and/or rear), ampere gage registers beyond 30 A (approx. 40A). with intermittent noise on rear A/C blower (bearing maybe)
3. Headlights on (A/C off) a little less than 30 A.
3. Voltage readings are ok (lower than 14.4V) according to my digital tester.

Is this normal or not? ganito ba talaga ugali ng mga brand new non-OEM alternators?
kasi hindi ganito yung sarili kong sasakyan.

thanks

**miked** · November 26th, 2013 02:07 PM

wala pang 2 years yung battery...

bale sa pinsan ko ito. maalala ko pala. kinargahan ko last time ng eletrolyte yung battery nya dahil below the plates na yung level. i suspected at first an overcharging condition pero yung simple voltage tests ko noon eh hindi naman overcharging. didn't have the chance to inspect it thoroughly also via the ampere gage. ngayon ko lang napansin. fyi

**CVT** · November 26th, 2013 02:13 PM

Bro.,- I have not really measured the current drain in our rides (I have no DCA ammeter with that range). I think that gauges are really not that accurate.

However, my thinking is that if the battery's voltage is holding at 13.8V (regular charging),- then you should be okay. The alternator should be real good enough to handle the setup.

21.7K:outcold:

**miked** · November 26th, 2013 02:38 PM

wala rin ako brader ng clamp meter. actually naghahanap din ako ng minimum 1000 DC amperes na clamp type kaso mahirap hanapin. usually AC amperes lang.

back to the topic, yung gage na ikinabit dun sa van nya eh yung generic lang (ROX ata).

**xtian119** · November 26th, 2013 02:42 PM

Hi Miked,

That ampere gauge in your van is not compatible anymore to your 110 amp alternator. Since it can only read up to 60 amp when you start your engine or rev up with no load it will hit the +60amp reading very easy. Worst case it will burn the ampere gauge because it cannot handle the load. So it would be best if your remove the ampere gauge.

It would be best if you use a voltage meter gauge instead. Yup your voltage reading is on the safe side. Over voltage would be 15 ~ 16 volts

**miked** · November 26th, 2013 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by xtian119

Hi Miked,

That ampere gauge in your van is not compatible anymore to your 110 amp alternator. Since it can only read up to 60 amp when you start your engine or rev up with no load it will hit the +60amp reading very easy. Worst case it will burn the ampere gauge because it cannot handle the load. So it would be best if your remove the ampere gauge.

It would be best if you use a voltage meter gauge instead. Yup your voltage reading is on the safe side. Over voltage would be 15 ~ 16 volts

The question would be: why would the alternator give more than 60 amperes when the stock A/C system is on? afaik, the A/C system would require lesser than 20A (if im correct).

kulang pa siguro ako sa informal tests. I'll try swapping a new battery then i'll see.

bale 3 ang nakikita ko sa bolang kristal ko:
1. defective current regulator
2. battery nearing its end
3. a defective component or load (like the A/C). could be partially burnt windings on the blower motor, etc.

**testament11** · November 26th, 2013 05:45 PM

Hmmm, much better kung may clamp meter ka with DC functions. If you want one, call 5th Avenue or Avesco and get their Kyoritsu clamp meters. Mahal nga lang ang isa pero compared naman sa Fluke, mas mura nang di hamak pero maganda at quality naman.

Another question pala, yun bang alternator eh IC type o yun kelangan pa ng separate regulator?

At starting kasi, normal yun mag-shoot siya to 60A dahil kelangan niya i-charge ang battery.

Kung suspect mo ang aircon, baka laging naka-on ang compressor at hindi na nag-aautomatic. Maybe nakasagad ang thermostat settings kaya ganyan. If ok naman ang settings, have it checked na rin.

**miked** · November 26th, 2013 11:41 PM

Originally Posted by testament11

Hmmm, much better kung may clamp meter ka with DC functions. If you want one, call 5th Avenue or Avesco and get their Kyoritsu clamp meters. Mahal nga lang ang isa pero compared naman sa Fluke, mas mura nang di hamak pero maganda at quality naman.

Another question pala, yun bang alternator eh IC type o yun kelangan pa ng separate regulator?

At starting kasi, normal yun mag-shoot siya to 60A dahil kelangan niya i-charge ang battery.

Kung suspect mo ang aircon, baka laging naka-on ang compressor at hindi na nag-aautomatic. Maybe nakasagad ang thermostat settings kaya ganyan. If ok naman ang settings, have it checked na rin.

Hindi kaya ng powers ko yung kyoritsu. nakita ko na typical prices nun. kaya yung fluke at klein di na ako nagbother na alamin pa. hehe...pero sigurado ako meron maganda sa may binondo area. hanapin lang ng maige.

back to the topic:

integral IC type yung alternator

nagcycle on and off naman yung compressor. minimum settings na rin yung thermostat. pero still have to check that blower bushing or bearing. baka dinadrag yung ikot ng blower motor.