A.) Using a 800 amp Booster Cable, If I am going to get power from a 700 amp (3SM) Battery, to power a lowly functioning 400 amp (1SM or 2SM)Battery, could it destroy the electrical components of the smaller car?
B.) What if I use a 500 amp Booster cable, would the booster cable melt because of the higher 700amp (3SM) Battery?
Thanks for the advise!
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February 19th, 2019 03:03 PM #1
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February 19th, 2019 03:09 PM #2A, you only destroy electrical components by swapping the red and black...
Originally Posted by Athrunzala
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February 19th, 2019 03:59 PM #3no it wont melt your cable either of the two, 12v lang naman dumadaan dyan e, i suggest using the higher amp cable for better starting power. Originally Posted by Athrunzala
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February 19th, 2019 04:21 PM #4it will get warm. Originally Posted by mokong22
ts
get heavy duty ones. mine are rated 800 amps with plated clamps.
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February 19th, 2019 05:02 PM #5Agree, they will just get warm.... Originally Posted by StockEngine
Current rating, of the transmission (booster cable in this case) should be guardbanded vs the current(power) rating of the source...
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February 19th, 2019 05:06 PM #6This depends on the Current required to start the vehicle... Since both batteries are in parallel, - assuming the receiving battery is not dead, then Current required from the source battery and through the booster cable is actually less... Originally Posted by Athrunzala
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February 19th, 2019 10:25 PM #8 Originally Posted by mokong22
I see, what if you only use a 400 Amp Booster Cable VS a 500 AMP recipient Battery and a 700 Amp Battery ?
Could the 400 Amp Booster Cable still transfer 500 AMP? or it would melt right away?
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February 19th, 2019 10:28 PM #9Guardbanded means should have rubber-covered protection? Originally Posted by CVT
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February 19th, 2019 10:35 PM #10the electrical flow will be limited by what the electrical appliance will need. Originally Posted by Athrunzala
if it needs half an amp, then only half an amp will flow thru your big cables.
errr...
what do you intend to power with those cables, po?
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February 19th, 2019 10:45 PM #11Nothing will melt or burn because you did not specify the amount of load. But normal car load would not even reach 100A in total so even a 100A cable should do just fine.
You should also consider the resistance of the cable and the amount of load, apply Ohms and Kirchhoff's law to sum up to voltage drop.
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February 19th, 2019 10:47 PM #12Bro - what I meant by guardbanded is that it is rated some percentages higher than what is required.... Originally Posted by Athrunzala
Others call it factor of safety but this time with a multiple of what's required.
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February 19th, 2019 11:05 PM #14I see, I did not know that the recipient battery might need only less than 100A... So buying a 500A cable is already OK... Originally Posted by 12vdc
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February 19th, 2019 11:23 PM #16Yes, but install fuse in between and disconnect solenoid for your safety. If what you are planning is a dual-bat setup for an RV, there is a kit for that including a regulator. Distance will also matter, the longer the distance the larger the wire gauge usually 6-8ga stranded-wire will do on a car. Originally Posted by Athrunzala
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February 19th, 2019 11:33 PM #17I only know is the ordinary booster cable, sorry I am not familiar with the fuse and solenoid and RV... Originally Posted by 12vdc
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February 19th, 2019 11:42 PM #18Use anderson plug if permanent. If temporary, the alligator clips of your booster cable should do fine. Just google the terms if not familiar, there is also a booster cable topic here in this forum that might help you.
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February 19th, 2019 11:43 PM #19Also make sure the alligator clips have a good grip / clamping force on the terminals.. Originally Posted by Athrunzala
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February 19th, 2019 11:56 PM #20This is what I have, the KYK packaging says 500A battery jumpstart cable. The cable gauge looks like AWG 6(~14mm2), makapal lang balat so it looks thick. Good enough for quick jumpstarts.
Below is a comparison of a 50mm2 and 22mm2 stranded cable.
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Originally Posted by Athrunzala
