Very Hot High Tension Wire

**mongobread** · September 10th, 2014 09:27 PM

Originally Posted by Chinoi

Ulitin mo na lang test reading pag naka set sa :
200=?
2,000=?
20k=?
200k=?
2000k=?

Ganun din po, 1 lang reading, even switching the probes vice versa.

The car still runs, drove from Cavite - Alabang - Makati via skyway.

**Chinoi** · September 11th, 2014 01:56 AM

Originally Posted by mongobread

Ganun din po, 1 lang reading, even switching the probes vice versa.

The car still runs, drove from Cavite - Alabang - Makati via skyway.

Kung 1 ohm ang reading between B and C ay shorted ito. Laging naka On yun primary ng Ignition Coil at hindi ito aandar. Dahil ma create lang high voltage pag open or high resistance reading ng Ignition Module.

Baka sira ohmmeter function ng tester mo.

Sana may ibang Ignition Module for comparison. Yun Ignition Module lang talaga alam ko na mag cause ng overheat ng Ignition Coil kung leaky ito.

**mongobread** · September 11th, 2014 02:47 AM

Originally Posted by Chinoi

Kung 1 ohm ang reading between B and C ay shorted ito. Laging naka On yun primary ng Ignition Coil at hindi ito aandar. Dahil ma create lang high voltage pag open or high resistance reading ng Ignition Module.

Baka sira ohmmeter function ng tester mo.

Sana may ibang Ignition Module for comparison. Yun Ignition Module lang talaga alam ko na mag cause ng overheat ng Ignition Coil kung leaky ito.

I'm not sure kung faulty to, kabibili lang pero CDRking nga lang. Maaring yung uber high resistance hindi ma-read...

I'll try to borrow multitester na maganda.

Note: I tried both ways, red lead or black lead sa "B" ... wala talaga... 1 lang na labas.

There's a possibility na ICM nga prob kasi nga surplus lang to. Sala-salabat pa wiring kaya ni-isolate ko (dami naka-tap sa "+" ng coil)

I will try to buy another coil and will see how it goes.

So far sa current setup at sparkies hindi pa ako natirik. Malalaman pag sinabak ko na to sa tirik ng araw at traffic.

I will update you guys =)

**Chinoi** · September 11th, 2014 10:24 AM

Originally Posted by mongobread

I'm not sure kung faulty to, kabibili lang pero CDRking nga lang. Maaring yung uber high resistance hindi ma-read...

I'll try to borrow multitester na maganda.

Note: I tried both ways, red lead or black lead sa "B" ... wala talaga... 1 lang na labas.

There's a possibility na ICM nga prob kasi nga surplus lang to. Sala-salabat pa wiring kaya ni-isolate ko (dami naka-tap sa "+" ng coil)

I will try to buy another coil and will see how it goes.

So far sa current setup at sparkies hindi pa ako natirik. Malalaman pag sinabak ko na to sa tirik ng araw at traffic.

I will update you guys =)

OK naman yata reading ng ignition coil mo. According sa manual ay 11k ohm or 11,000 ohms.

Ano pala model ng Distributor and Ignition Coil mo? Mag start Model sa MD???????.

Gamitin mo na lang kotse then observe. Nakatulong ba yun suggestion ko ng palit Distributor Cap ng OEM.?

**mongobread** · September 11th, 2014 03:11 PM

Originally Posted by Chinoi

OK naman yata reading ng ignition coil mo. According sa manual ay 11k ohm or 11,000 ohms.

Ano pala model ng Distributor and Ignition Coil mo? Mag start Model sa MD???????.

Gamitin mo na lang kotse then observe. Nakatulong ba yun suggestion ko ng palit Distributor Cap ng OEM.?

Distributor = Poong Soong Original Korean (I tried to find OEM pero wala stock sa mitsu prime same sa ICM) Pwede naman daw yun Korean version para sa Hyundai G4DJ which is 4g15 din naman daw. Bnew 2 months old

Distributor is Mitsubishi, replacement ang cap (YEC) kasi yun OEM nya may crack na.

HTW yung tig 400 pesos lang MEGAVolt made in USA daw (weh) = I had a hard time connecting the HTW sa distributor cap before nadulas. So what I did is inusog ko isa isa yun mga boot at pinasok ko maigi ang mga terminals yung fit na fit talaga. Saka sinuot ang boot.

Ballast resistor is Circuit, 1.7 ohms ang pagka-reading ko.

Primary ng coil is 1.2 ohms, Secondary is 12.5 K Ohms

HTW = around 10-12.xx K ohms ang reading (Yung OEM ko nasa 1.2 - 1.5 K ohms ang reading. Should I put it back? medyo may edad na tignan din. Although I haven't tested it with corona effect / water mist technique pero yung Bnew HTW natest ko walang arcing.

I retured the OEM rotor, medyo wala akong tiwala sa bnew YEC rotor, ang nipis ng conductor element nya at one way lang ang element sa loob. Yung OEM parang Y pattern at may element bawat isa. Yung bnew 2 way accoss pero isang side lang may element. Feeling ko duon natalon kuryente kasi parang hindi na contact ng maayos. I'll try to provide pictures next time.

My mechanic's wiring before are the following:

a.) "B" lead to Point A of ballast resistor, then Point B of ballast resistor going to "+" of the Ignition Coil
b.) 12v main feed coming from ignition switch "ON" to "+" of the Ignition Coil
c.) "C" lead to "-" of the Ignition Coil
d.) Condenser to "-" of the Ignition Coil

Ang bilis pa rin mag-init and I think it's because nakadirect pa rin yung 12v feed sa coil

I re-wired it based dito http://www.mgbreakers.com/MGMart%20p...h%20Module.jpg

a.) "B" lead to Point A of ballast resistor along with the 12v Main line from ignition switch, then Point B of ballast resistor going to "+" of the Ignition Coil
b.) "C" lead to "-" of the Ignition Coil
c.) Condenser to "+" of the Ignition Coil

And I noticed medyo mas matagal siya uminit ngayon. Hindi rough ang idle when I reach 1/4 - 1/2 temp gauge

I tested it afternoon tirik araw, 15 km drive, half of the drive iniwan ko kotse nakapark sa initan habang nabili ng wire sa auto supply hehe. So far hindi naman tumirik or nag rough idle.

The final test would be in traffic sections ng Las Pinas/Alabang. or better yet, Edsa... wag lang ma-towing hehe.

Sir Jick suggested that I should wire START to "+" of the coil para madaling mag start. Medyo mahirap nga at cold starts na need pa apakan ang gas pedal or pump it 1-3 times before starting. I'm still in the process of doing it.

Also I put up a switch sa rekta radiator fan ko, till makabili ako ng thermoswitch at thermostat. May nagsasabi wag na daw kasi matanda na yun engine, I should put it up still right? I've put up coolant before pero natapon kasi nag pa-overhaul ako ng radiator , pero nag-le-leak pa rin so I'm planning to buy evercool radiator next. For now mineral or distilled muna, (kaka-patch lang ulit kanina so natapon na naman distilled ko)

**Chinoi** · September 11th, 2014 05:05 PM

Ang bilis pa rin mag-init and I think it's because nakadirect pa rin yung 12v feed sa coil

I re-wired it based dito http://www.mgbreakers.com/MGMart%20p...h%20Module.jpg

Parang 1 wire contact lang galing sa Ignition Switch. Dapat 2 wire papuntang Ignition Coil. Yun Start wire na direct sa +Coil para sa starting ay +12V ang supply sa ignition coil para mataas ma-produce na High Voltage.

Then kung running na engine ay babalik sa Run yun contact ng Ignition switch which will series yun ballast resistor sa +coil para hindi ito uminit.

**mongobread** · September 11th, 2014 06:10 PM

Originally Posted by Chinoi

Parang 1 wire contact lang galing sa Ignition Switch. Dapat 2 wire papuntang Ignition Coil. Yun Start wire na direct sa +Coil para sa starting ay +12V ang supply sa ignition coil para mataas ma-produce na High Voltage.

Then kung running na engine ay babalik sa Run yun contact ng Ignition switch which will series yun ballast resistor sa +coil para hindi ito uminit.

Nakita ko na rin po ito and I reckon this is for contact point type distributor. Sa isang friend ko na 4g15 din isang wire nga lang nakalabaas sa distributor nya at nakakabit sa negative terminal ng ignition coil. Kaya nahihirapan ako kasi iba kami ng wiring dahil nga contact-point type yung kanya.

Kaya kung makikita sa sa picture ng Ignition Control Module may "B" at "C" leads.

**jick.cejoco** · September 12th, 2014 05:58 AM

The trigger wire is just one wire. It is the power supply side that has two circuits: the run circuit(with the ballast resistor) and the start circuit(the one which is direct between the ignition switch and terminal 15 of the ignition coil)

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**mongobread** · September 12th, 2014 08:34 PM

Update:

I've re-tuned the car again today. Check the water's temp via external temp gauge, cool 70-90 deg C naman although mahirap sabihin kasi maghahapon-gabi na. Although we are seeing glitter-like particles na baka aluminum shavings ata.

Tomorrow ma-te-test sa manila's traffic, sana wag umulan at tumirik ang araw.

Sir jick, di ko pa na-inspect kung saan kumuha ng 12v feed ang mechanic ko, I'll try to trace.

Again, the setup is:

a.) 12v line from Ignition switch and "B" line from ignition module to Point A of ballast resistor. (Ballast resistor's resistance rating is 1.7 ohms)
b.) Point B of ballast resistor to "+" terminal of the ignition coil.
c.) "C" line from ignition module to "-" of the ignition coil.

Optional: Condenser (0.6 ohms) to "+" of the ignition coil, sabi sa negative daw pero parang lakas ng noise when I'm tuning to AM radio.

I've inspected connections of the HTW to tight connection.

1.) New Sparkies (Denso W16EX-U equivalent to NGK BP5ES)
2.) New Re-patched radiator (No Leak) / Radiator Cap recently changed [0.9]
3.) Radiator fan working (Rekta but I've installed a switch para pag cool naman or drop ang temp gauge, mapapatay ko)
4.) AC fans - good
5.) Tuned up (ang nakikita ko sa pressure gauge hooked up sa intake manifold is 26)
6.) Idle seems to be 800 RPM (wala po kasi akong tachometer)

Tools (nasa likod na lahat para kung masiraan hehe)

I'm ready to test tomorrow.

**Chinoi** · September 13th, 2014 11:24 AM

Optional: Condenser (0.6 ohms) to "+" of the ignition coil, sabi sa negative daw pero parang lakas ng noise when I'm tuning to AM radio.

Ang capacitor ay value reading ay dapat in microfarad. Usually around 0.1 mfd. For electrical noise filtering. Minsan ilagay iyan sa dc supply wire malapit sa AM radio para bawas electrical noice fron ignition system. Sa contact point type ay meron nakakabit sa - coil.

Sigurado ba 0.6 ohms na read mo sa capacitor out of the circuit? Kung actual resistance reading iyan ay shorted yun capacitor.

5.) Tuned up (ang nakikita ko sa pressure gauge hooked up sa intake manifold is 26)

Meron yata restriction sa intake manifold mo. Mataas kung sa idling rpm iyan. Dapat between 18-20. Ano sa tingin mo?