Very Hot High Tension Wire

**dr. d** · August 23rd, 2014 01:01 AM

Originally Posted by mongobread

Yes meron po yung akin, white bar about 2.5- 3 inches wide and 1 inch thick. Although it seems odd na lahat ng contact/wire na nakakabit sa resistor ay sa isang place lang at yun mga wires na yun parang papunta sa positive terminal ng ignition coil. Sa kabilang side naman ng resistor ay walang nakakabit. I'm still studying the wiring diagram nito.

Definitely I need a full re-wiring or wiring overhaul kasi salasalabat ang mga wirings eh. I plan to do it DIY, section by section.

my wild guess is, the hi tension cable doesn't have a good contact with the ignition cable's hi tension terminal. thus the extreme heat in the area...

**Chinoi** · August 24th, 2014 11:37 AM

Have you tried replacing your Distributor Cap? Old distributor cap tends to have loose connection doon mismo sa center contact para sa rotor. So hindi makatawid yun high voltage spark para sa spark plug.

You might want to try my new Neon Bulb HTW voltage tester technique. Bili ka ng Neon bulb sa Deeco Raon or other electronic shop. Hawakan mo yun wire ng Neon bulb at idikit mo sa sa HTW or malapit sa boot ng SP. Mag glow ito kung may high voltage. Compare yun glow ng neon sa lahat ng HTW para malaman kung saan may diperensya.

http://vid1276.photobucket.com/album...ps7c33ed8c.mp4

**mongobread** · August 24th, 2014 01:35 PM

Originally Posted by dr. d

my wild guess is, the hi tension cable doesn't have a good contact with the ignition cable's hi tension terminal. thus the extreme heat in the area...

Your guess is prolly the problem as I drove the car yesterday na tirik araw, then hard rain sa las pinas/alabang, then tirik ang araw ulit plus traffic dahil nasunog yun KTV bar I don't know the name. Hindi na ako tumirik.

I did stall before arriving sa laspinas nasa daang hari pa lang but I figured the problem asap. Yung boot ng isang cable ay dumudulas sa distributor cap.

Now, nalimutan ko i-check yun heat ng coil at HT wires but nahawakan ko hood and it seems na tolerable ang init hindi tulad ng dati na mainit na mainit.

**mongobread** · August 24th, 2014 01:38 PM

Originally Posted by Chinoi

Have you tried replacing your Distributor Cap? Old distributor cap tends to have loose connection doon mismo sa center contact para sa rotor. So hindi makatawid yun high voltage spark para sa spark plug.

You might want to try my new Neon Bulb HTW voltage tester technique. Bili ka ng Neon bulb sa Deeco Raon or other electronic shop. Hawakan mo yun wire ng Neon bulb at idikit mo sa sa HTW or malapit sa boot ng SP. Mag glow ito kung may high voltage. Compare yun glow ng neon sa lahat ng HTW para malaman kung saan may diperensya.

http://vid1276.photobucket.com/album...ps7c33ed8c.mp4

I haven't changed my distributor cap & rotor pero I do plan to change them na. My mechanic did the "kutkot" technique sa cap and sabi okay pa raw.

Thanks for the technique, I'll try that pero malayo sa akin raon. Any chance meron kaya sa pinakamalapit na electronics store? Ano yung exact item name na sasabihin ko?

Tonight I'll be trying the water-mist technique kung may arcing sa kuryente yung mga new HTW just to make sure.

I already did resistance check on the HTW w/ a multitester and they're okay naman.

**mongobread** · August 26th, 2014 05:45 AM

Update:

New Distributor Rotor - YEC Brand Replacement/ Japan daw (Although I like the old mitsubishi rotor as it looked sturdy pero pinalitan ko na rin ng New one.)

New Distributor Cap - YEC Brand Replacement/ Japan daw (This one doesn't have the breather hole like the old cap "Mando ata brand" kasi nakasulat Mando eh. And the old cap have signs of all the ignition sequence unlike sa YEC na #1 lang sign and rotation sign)

New Air Filter Simota Disc type - The cheap paper type na about 4-5 inches in diameter lang seem to be clogged up na ata, hirap na sya bugahan ng compressed air.

Traveled Dasma to Laspinas (NOTE: Hindi pa ako nakabili ng above at hindi pa nakaka-kabit, bandang border arc ng talon - moonwalk village I stalled with AC on, temp is 1/4 lang since always ON ang radiator fan ko. It seems flooded ang analysis ko kasi nun nag mano-mano choke ako by hand sa carb, basa naman agad kamay ko so hindi dahil nawalan ako ng fuel sa carb. After trying it out to crank finally tumakbo ulit sya sa final mano-mano choke ko. I noticed na lumuwag ang spark plug cable#3 na nakabit sa distributor before ako nag choke. Nang umadar about 3 mins, I immediately open the AC agad then lakad

Hindi na tumirik ang car till pamplona then SM Center.

I tried to secure the HT wires sa distributor, after 3-4 hours sa mall we left at may nadaanan akong AutoSupply na bukas pa, mga 5:30pm ata so I bought the items above. AC is on during at this point in idle habang bumibili ako, drove again till matirikan na naman ako sa daang hari (NOTE that gabi na to at madilim).

I tried to install the nen air filter at this point, same scenario [AC on/ cruising speed lang] carb seems to be flooded kasi pag mano mano choke ko ang carb basa naman agad kamay ko pero parang wala gaanong higop sa ibabaw ng carb. Tyaga ng konti till mag start na via mano mano choke. The car ran nicely w/ the new air filter at malaki improvement sa accelaration.

Nang malapit na kami sa gate ng subsdivision tumirik ulit, so I assume hindi sa scortching hotness sa umaga.

Again the car starts at mano mano choke, I didn't check kung may kuryente sa HT wires at ginawa ko na lang sa bahay at meron naman.

Ignition Coil still untouchable sa init as well and HT wires nung naka-uwi kami. Pag-baklas ko ng mga HT Wires sa distributor caps lahat ng saksakan ay may white powder. What gives? It seems naman na mahigpit pagkakakabit ko before.

I used WD 40 to clean the terminals of the HT wires, konting konti lang para malinis ko mga terminals.
(NOTE that I just had a tune up/set the vacuum to their right places 2-3 weeks ago)

So ang ending I replaced the cap this early morning, the rotor and tried to set the ignition timing again a bit further sa usual (advanced hindi pa retard)

(Pero I'll get it tuned/timed later sa suki kong mechanic kasi may ginagamit siyang gauge pag nagtotono. Wala kasi ang tachometer kaya hirap akong mag tono na magisa lang)

Guys, do you think I have faulty wiring sa ignition coil ko or pa-worn out na talaga yun engine at need na overhaul?

(I have installed the new rotor and cap, and will test again tomorrow if titirik pa ako.)

**dr. d** · August 26th, 2014 10:52 PM

no matter how worn and forlorn your engine, it will not be a cause for ignition coil heating up.
might i suggest, bring it to a mitsubishi specialist ?

and what is that white powder all about, i wonder..?

can you borrow another ignition coil for trial?

**lowslowbenz** · August 26th, 2014 11:16 PM

Something is wrong with your coil. What brand did you buy? I would suggest you buy a Bosch Blue or Red (orig German or Spain).

Read thru this link:

Ballast Resistor needed?

**mongobread** · August 27th, 2014 04:13 AM

Originally Posted by dr. d

no matter how worn and forlorn your engine, it will not be a cause for ignition coil heating up.
might i suggest, bring it to a mitsubishi specialist ?

and what is that white powder all about, i wonder..?

can you borrow another ignition coil for trial?

I had the car tuned again today and will monitor kung mag overheat pa after replacing the distributor cap. The old distributor cap had a crack sa port saksakang ng cable to ignition coil. I researched that the white powder is because of water and it was corrosion daw. I was advised kasi kung magoverheat ng i.coil ay buhusan ng tubig at baka dahil yun sa steam pag nag bubuhos ako.

Originally Posted by lowslowbenz

Something is wrong with your coil. What brand did you buy? I would suggest you buy a Bosch Blue or Red (orig German or Spain).

Read thru this link:

Ballast Resistor needed?

Yes after monitoring at pag tumirik pa, palit coil ulit ako. The coil is original part for G4DJ which is 4G15 din daw, Poong Soong ang taktak. Wala kasi available nung bumibili ako at ayaw ko sana yun Circuit na brand. The korean part is 1,300 pesos and yung Circuit brand is 400.

I will try yung Bosch pag tumirik pa. Also yes *lowslowbenz may Ballast Resistor na nakakabit, although it could be faulty. Paano ba mag test to sa multimeter? Yung coil marunong na ako mag check and so far okay naman ang resistance. Yung old coil ko bagsak na ang primary 0.01 - 0.00 ohms then secondary is about 15.xx ohms.

Again this is a project car so most of the repairs ay DIY. Yung tune up lang hindi kasi wala akong pressure gauge at wala na yun markings sa timing belt cover para makita ko ang TDC to adjust timing. Yung trusted mechanic ko pinapatira na lang.

Salasalabat din kasi ang wiring so possibly na may hindi dapat naka-connect sa ignition coil/ballast resistor.

**mongobread** · August 28th, 2014 11:23 PM

Update:

There were very good progress sa pag palit ng distributor cap & rotor. However, the dang ignition coil is hot. Napaso ako 1-2 sec na paghawak sa coil after driving from Bagtikan to Alabang via Skyway.

What I did now is bought another resistor (Circuit Brand nga lang ang available sa napagbilan). The current resistor seem to be find pa rin, so what I did is put the ignition switch wire to the new one. Snapped it to the firewall near the coil. Yung isang line ay ni-retain ko sa current na kadikit ng ignition coil. And here's what I found out also.. the radiator fan is connected in here as well. My fan doesn't have thermoswitch so nakarekta but didn't realized na dito pala ni-jumper. I plan to add a switch para mano mano ON/OFF ko na lang inside the driver side, till makahanap ng thermoswitch.

Any thoughts na ito ang isa sa mga kaso na dagdag load?

**Chinoi** · September 7th, 2014 09:33 PM

Ano pala yun model kotse mo? Contact point type or Igniter IC type. Leaky Igniter IC will cause overheat on distributor. Because it was not totally off. Some current might be still flowing on Ignition coil. Maganda ba sunog ng fuel? Ano kulay ng gap ng spark plug ng engine?

Meron ka pala multitester. Test mo kung may leak resistance between coil - terminal and ground. Pero disconnect mo muna yun coil + terminal for accuracy.

Baka pwede ka post ng distributor at ignition coil mo. Mag ka idea ako kung paano makatulong.