Very Hot High Tension Wire

[mongobread]

Ano pala yun model kotse mo? Contact point type or Igniter IC type. Leaky Igniter IC will cause overheat on distributor. Because it was not totally off. Some current might be still flowing on Ignition coil. Maganda ba sunog ng fuel? Ano kulay ng gap ng spark plug ng engine?

Meron ka pala multitester. Test mo kung may leak resistance between coil - terminal and ground. Pero disconnect mo muna yun coil + terminal for accuracy.

Baka pwede ka post ng distributor at ignition coil mo. Mag ka idea ako kung paano makatulong.

Igniter IC type I think (as it's called Ignition Module - J152) => Amazon.com: Ignition Module for Mitsubishi M004 J152 C1959a E1928 6h1069 180-0256 01610 Cbe517 55-1569 Tp160 E730124910 19017012 27120-21020 27120-21050 Am15-18-v20 Md607814 Md611384 Lx-549: Automotive

Kapapalit ko lang ng Ignition Module before I posted this thread. Surplus nga lang dahil mahirap makahanap. (1,800 php) - 4,500 daw according sa isang Mitsubishi OEM dealer dito sa cavite kaso walang stock so nagtyaga sa surplus. I think okay naman kasi nun test malakas kuryente.

I've been checking resistance sa primary at secondary. I think this is what you meant by " Test mo kung may leak resistance between coil - terminal and ground. Pero disconnect mo muna yun coil + terminal for accuracy."
Primary - 1.25 ohms
seconary - 12.6 K ohms

It hasn't change even ilang beses na nag overheat at stall ang coil.

Updates:
===========
Nag stall pa rin ako nun byahe ako Alabang to Walmart Arnaiz, although nag start naman agad pero wag lang mag AC.

May setup sa wiring is:

a.) Point A of ballast resistor connects "B" wire of the ignition module and 12v from ignition switch ON/RUN wire.
b.) Point B of ballast resistor to "+" of the ignition coil
c.) "C" wire of the ignition module to "-" of the ignition coil
basically ito sinunod ko -> http://www.mgbreakers.com/MGMart%20p...h%20Module.jpg

A friend says and a fellow tsikoteer did say na dapat yun line ng START eh nakakabit direcho sa "+" ng ignition coil para hindi mahirap mag start ng kotse.

What I think that something else could be wrong is the rotor armature. Binalik ko yung orig mitsubishi rotor, naalala ko kasi yun contact ng pinaka bilog eh iisa lang at manipis. Hindi tulad sa orig na 3 way sya. Pinilit ko kasi, it's hard to explain and I'll try to provide pictures for this.

I just replaced spark plugs na rin nga pala from NGK BP5ES to DENSO W16EX-U. Road-test it yesterday afternoon, so far hindi naging rough even tirik araw. Drove it, idle it (iniwan ko sa initan habang nabili ng relays haha) so far hindi tumirik.

The burn is very good naman sa lumang spark plugs. Ignition coil is Poong Soon orig korea part. Mahal kasi ng orig mitsubishi.. I'll try to post pictures ng coil at distributor.

I tried running it without ballast, 3 km pa lang ang init na ng ignition coil.
I tried it with ballast resistor, and parang matagal nga sya uminit.

Manual spec says 1.2 ohms primary at external resitor is 1.6 ohms, so 2.8 ohms lang required but I read it somewhere na dapat 3.5 ohms, at may posibility na magloko na at 3.0 ohms. Hope anyone can clear this up kasi nga may mga ignition coils na 3.0 ohms na agad resistance.

The actual test would be trying it sa traffic ng las pinas at edsa. I'll post what will happen next.

[Chinoi]

Nakita ko sa manual na ok lang resistance ng secondary coil. Pwede measure mo resistance ng Ignition Module? Disconnect wire from B and C Terminal then measure resistance and use it as test point.
.

[mongobread]

Nakita ko sa manual na ok lang resistance ng secondary coil. Pwede measure mo resistance ng Ignition Module? Disconnect wire from B and C Terminal then measure resistance and use it as test point.
.

"C" - 2.9 ohms
"B" - 0.9 - 1.2 ohms

my tester's lead resistance is already 0.9 ohms

So basically the total resistance for the following are:

"C" 2.9 - 0.9 = 0.9 ohms
"B" 0.9(or 1.2 ohms) - 0.9 = 0 ohms (or 0.3 ohms)

Are these variables okay? Medyo malaro yung "B" wire or nanginginig lang ako at nangangawit sa pagdukot sa distributor haha. ( I didn't remove the distributor, just the cap at accessible naman na)

[jick.cejoco]

If you can get a dwell meter, try measuring degrees dwell between terminal 1 and terminal 15. Typical 4 cylinder dwell is around 52 degrees.


Posted through phlpost.gov.ph

[mongobread]

If you can get a dwell meter, try measuring degrees dwell between terminal 1 and terminal 15. Typical 4 cylinder dwell is around 52 degrees.


Posted through phlpost.gov.ph

Unfortunately wala akong dwell meter. I'll try to ask my mechanic if magkita kami.

[Chinoi]

"C" - 2.9 ohms
"B" - 0.9 - 1.2 ohms

my tester's lead resistance is already 0.9 ohms

So basically the total resistance for the following are:

"C" 2.9 - 0.9 = 0.9 ohms
"B" 0.9(or 1.2 ohms) - 0.9 = 0 ohms (or 0.3 ohms)

Are these variables okay? Medyo malaro yung "B" wire or nanginginig lang ako at nangangawit sa pagdukot sa distributor haha. ( I didn't remove the distributor, just the cap at accessible naman na)

Masyado mababa reading. Shorted reading iyan. Di aandar ang engine kapag ganyan kababa reading sa Ignitor.

Try mo ito.

Post ko picture para makatulong. Measure yun Terminal B and C. Be sure na disconnected kahit 1 wire terminal sa terminal B or C para accurate ang reading.

B= Red Probe C= Black Probe --- Normal resistance Reading should be OL or Open reading

B= Black Probe C= Red Probe ---- Normal resistance reading should be 1.8M

Having low resistance on points B and C means the built-in Switching Transistor was leaky or shorted.

Leaky reading will cause Ignition Coil partially turn on and not completely turned off. Causing overheating of Ignition Coil.

[mongobread]

Masyado mababa reading. Shorted reading iyan. Di aandar ang engine kapag ganyan kababa reading sa Ignitor.

Try mo ito.

Post ko picture para makatulong. Measure yun Terminal B and C. Be sure na disconnected kahit 1 wire terminal sa terminal B or C para accurate ang reading.

B= Red Probe C= Black Probe --- Normal resistance Reading should be OL or Open reading

B= Black Probe C= Red Probe ---- Normal resistance reading should be 1.8M

Having low resistance on points B and C means the built-in Switching Transistor was leaky or shorted.

Leaky reading will cause Ignition Coil partially turn on and not completely turned off. Causing overheating of Ignition Coil.

Wire po ang tinest ko sir chinoi, hindi yun contacts ng ignition module. I'll do that now pero yun digital multitester ko ang settings ay by 200 ohms, 2k ohms so on ...

Ano settings pipiliin ko to get 1.8M or did you mean 1.8k ohms?

Would it be better if I just test directly to the terminals and remove the wires?

[Chinoi]

Wire po ang tinest ko sir chinoi, hindi yun contacts ng ignition module. I'll do that now pero yun digital multitester ko ang settings ay by 200 ohms, 2k ohms so on ...

Ano settings pipiliin ko to get 1.8M or did you mean 1.8k ohms?

Would it be better if I just test directly to the terminals and remove the wires?

Mas accurate kung yun Terminal mismo w/o wires. Fluke Digital Multitester ko at Autorange gamit ko. Yun 1.8M ay 1.8 mega Ohms or 1,800,000 ohms.

[mongobread]

Masyado mababa reading. Shorted reading iyan. Di aandar ang engine kapag ganyan kababa reading sa Ignitor.

Try mo ito.

Post ko picture para makatulong. Measure yun Terminal B and C. Be sure na disconnected kahit 1 wire terminal sa terminal B or C para accurate ang reading.

B= Red Probe C= Black Probe --- Normal resistance Reading should be OL or Open reading

B= Black Probe C= Red Probe ---- Normal resistance reading should be 1.8M

Having low resistance on points B and C means the built-in Switching Transistor was leaky or shorted.

Leaky reading will cause Ignition Coil partially turn on and not completely turned off. Causing overheating of Ignition Coil.

B = Red Probe C = Black Probe -- Used continuity reading 1648 (wala po ako yung OL or Open reading) eto symbol na ginamit ko http://www.cdn.sciencebuddies.org/Fi...ck-symbols.jpg

at halos ganito tester ko = http://www.cdn.sciencebuddies.org/Fi...multimeter.jpg


B= Black Probe C= Red Probe ---- Normal resistance reading should be 1.8M - using Ω settings 2000k wala pong reading, 1 lang nababasa ko till 200 =(

[Chinoi]

B = Red Probe C = Black Probe -- Used continuity reading 1648 (wala po ako yung OL or Open reading) eto symbol na ginamit ko http://www.cdn.sciencebuddies.org/Fi...ck-symbols.jpg

at halos ganito tester ko = http://www.cdn.sciencebuddies.org/Fi...multimeter.jpg

Hindi pwede yun diode check.

Medyo lito ako sa resistance test.




B= Black Probe C= Red Probe ---- Normal resistance reading should be 1.8M - using Ω settings 2000k wala pong reading, 1 lang nababasa ko till 200 =(

Ulitin mo na lang test reading pag naka set sa :
200=?
2,000=?
20k=?
200k=?
2000k=?

[mongobread]

Ulitin mo na lang test reading pag naka set sa :
200=?
2,000=?
20k=?
200k=?
2000k=?

Ganun din po, 1 lang reading, even switching the probes vice versa.

The car still runs, drove from Cavite - Alabang - Makati via skyway.

[Chinoi]

Ganun din po, 1 lang reading, even switching the probes vice versa.

The car still runs, drove from Cavite - Alabang - Makati via skyway.

Kung 1 ohm ang reading between B and C ay shorted ito. Laging naka On yun primary ng Ignition Coil at hindi ito aandar. Dahil ma create lang high voltage pag open or high resistance reading ng Ignition Module.

Baka sira ohmmeter function ng tester mo.

Sana may ibang Ignition Module for comparison. Yun Ignition Module lang talaga alam ko na mag cause ng overheat ng Ignition Coil kung leaky ito.

[mongobread]

Kung 1 ohm ang reading between B and C ay shorted ito. Laging naka On yun primary ng Ignition Coil at hindi ito aandar. Dahil ma create lang high voltage pag open or high resistance reading ng Ignition Module.

Baka sira ohmmeter function ng tester mo.

Sana may ibang Ignition Module for comparison. Yun Ignition Module lang talaga alam ko na mag cause ng overheat ng Ignition Coil kung leaky ito.

I'm not sure kung faulty to, kabibili lang pero CDRking nga lang. Maaring yung uber high resistance hindi ma-read...

I'll try to borrow multitester na maganda.

Note: I tried both ways, red lead or black lead sa "B" ... wala talaga... 1 lang na labas.

There's a possibility na ICM nga prob kasi nga surplus lang to. Sala-salabat pa wiring kaya ni-isolate ko (dami naka-tap sa "+" ng coil)

I will try to buy another coil and will see how it goes.

So far sa current setup at sparkies hindi pa ako natirik. Malalaman pag sinabak ko na to sa tirik ng araw at traffic.

I will update you guys =)

[Chinoi]

I'm not sure kung faulty to, kabibili lang pero CDRking nga lang. Maaring yung uber high resistance hindi ma-read...

I'll try to borrow multitester na maganda.

Note: I tried both ways, red lead or black lead sa "B" ... wala talaga... 1 lang na labas.




There's a possibility na ICM nga prob kasi nga surplus lang to. Sala-salabat pa wiring kaya ni-isolate ko (dami naka-tap sa "+" ng coil)

I will try to buy another coil and will see how it goes.

So far sa current setup at sparkies hindi pa ako natirik. Malalaman pag sinabak ko na to sa tirik ng araw at traffic.

I will update you guys =)

OK naman yata reading ng ignition coil mo. According sa manual ay 11k ohm or 11,000 ohms.

Ano pala model ng Distributor and Ignition Coil mo? Mag start Model sa MD???????.

Gamitin mo na lang kotse then observe. Nakatulong ba yun suggestion ko ng palit Distributor Cap ng OEM.?

[mongobread]

OK naman yata reading ng ignition coil mo. According sa manual ay 11k ohm or 11,000 ohms.

Ano pala model ng Distributor and Ignition Coil mo? Mag start Model sa MD???????.

Gamitin mo na lang kotse then observe. Nakatulong ba yun suggestion ko ng palit Distributor Cap ng OEM.?

Distributor = Poong Soong Original Korean (I tried to find OEM pero wala stock sa mitsu prime same sa ICM) Pwede naman daw yun Korean version para sa Hyundai G4DJ which is 4g15 din naman daw. Bnew 2 months old

Distributor is Mitsubishi, replacement ang cap (YEC) kasi yun OEM nya may crack na.

HTW yung tig 400 pesos lang MEGAVolt made in USA daw (weh) = I had a hard time connecting the HTW sa distributor cap before nadulas. So what I did is inusog ko isa isa yun mga boot at pinasok ko maigi ang mga terminals yung fit na fit talaga. Saka sinuot ang boot.

Ballast resistor is Circuit, 1.7 ohms ang pagka-reading ko.

Primary ng coil is 1.2 ohms, Secondary is 12.5 K Ohms

HTW = around 10-12.xx K ohms ang reading (Yung OEM ko nasa 1.2 - 1.5 K ohms ang reading. Should I put it back? medyo may edad na tignan din. Although I haven't tested it with corona effect / water mist technique pero yung Bnew HTW natest ko walang arcing.

I retured the OEM rotor, medyo wala akong tiwala sa bnew YEC rotor, ang nipis ng conductor element nya at one way lang ang element sa loob. Yung OEM parang Y pattern at may element bawat isa. Yung bnew 2 way accoss pero isang side lang may element. Feeling ko duon natalon kuryente kasi parang hindi na contact ng maayos. I'll try to provide pictures next time.

My mechanic's wiring before are the following:

a.) "B" lead to Point A of ballast resistor, then Point B of ballast resistor going to "+" of the Ignition Coil
b.) 12v main feed coming from ignition switch "ON" to "+" of the Ignition Coil
c.) "C" lead to "-" of the Ignition Coil
d.) Condenser to "-" of the Ignition Coil

Ang bilis pa rin mag-init and I think it's because nakadirect pa rin yung 12v feed sa coil

I re-wired it based dito http://www.mgbreakers.com/MGMart%20p...h%20Module.jpg

a.) "B" lead to Point A of ballast resistor along with the 12v Main line from ignition switch, then Point B of ballast resistor going to "+" of the Ignition Coil
b.) "C" lead to "-" of the Ignition Coil
c.) Condenser to "+" of the Ignition Coil

And I noticed medyo mas matagal siya uminit ngayon. Hindi rough ang idle when I reach 1/4 - 1/2 temp gauge

I tested it afternoon tirik araw, 15 km drive, half of the drive iniwan ko kotse nakapark sa initan habang nabili ng wire sa auto supply hehe. So far hindi naman tumirik or nag rough idle.

The final test would be in traffic sections ng Las Pinas/Alabang. or better yet, Edsa... wag lang ma-towing hehe.

Sir Jick suggested that I should wire START to "+" of the coil para madaling mag start. Medyo mahirap nga at cold starts na need pa apakan ang gas pedal or pump it 1-3 times before starting. I'm still in the process of doing it.

Also I put up a switch sa rekta radiator fan ko, till makabili ako ng thermoswitch at thermostat. May nagsasabi wag na daw kasi matanda na yun engine, I should put it up still right? I've put up coolant before pero natapon kasi nag pa-overhaul ako ng radiator , pero nag-le-leak pa rin so I'm planning to buy evercool radiator next. For now mineral or distilled muna, (kaka-patch lang ulit kanina so natapon na naman distilled ko)

[Chinoi]

Ang bilis pa rin mag-init and I think it's because nakadirect pa rin yung 12v feed sa coil

I re-wired it based dito http://www.mgbreakers.com/MGMart%20p...h%20Module.jpg

Parang 1 wire contact lang galing sa Ignition Switch. Dapat 2 wire papuntang Ignition Coil. Yun Start wire na direct sa +Coil para sa starting ay +12V ang supply sa ignition coil para mataas ma-produce na High Voltage.

Then kung running na engine ay babalik sa Run yun contact ng Ignition switch which will series yun ballast resistor sa +coil para hindi ito uminit.

[mongobread]

Parang 1 wire contact lang galing sa Ignition Switch. Dapat 2 wire papuntang Ignition Coil. Yun Start wire na direct sa +Coil para sa starting ay +12V ang supply sa ignition coil para mataas ma-produce na High Voltage.

Then kung running na engine ay babalik sa Run yun contact ng Ignition switch which will series yun ballast resistor sa +coil para hindi ito uminit.

Nakita ko na rin po ito and I reckon this is for contact point type distributor. Sa isang friend ko na 4g15 din isang wire nga lang nakalabaas sa distributor nya at nakakabit sa negative terminal ng ignition coil. Kaya nahihirapan ako kasi iba kami ng wiring dahil nga contact-point type yung kanya.

Kaya kung makikita sa sa picture ng Ignition Control Module may "B" at "C" leads.

[jick.cejoco]

The trigger wire is just one wire. It is the power supply side that has two circuits: the run circuit(with the ballast resistor) and the start circuit(the one which is direct between the ignition switch and terminal 15 of the ignition coil)


Posted through phlpost.gov.ph

[mongobread]

Update:

I've re-tuned the car again today. Check the water's temp via external temp gauge, cool 70-90 deg C naman although mahirap sabihin kasi maghahapon-gabi na. Although we are seeing glitter-like particles na baka aluminum shavings ata.

Tomorrow ma-te-test sa manila's traffic, sana wag umulan at tumirik ang araw.

Sir jick, di ko pa na-inspect kung saan kumuha ng 12v feed ang mechanic ko, I'll try to trace.


Again, the setup is:

a.) 12v line from Ignition switch and "B" line from ignition module to Point A of ballast resistor. (Ballast resistor's resistance rating is 1.7 ohms)
b.) Point B of ballast resistor to "+" terminal of the ignition coil.
c.) "C" line from ignition module to "-" of the ignition coil.


Optional: Condenser (0.6 ohms) to "+" of the ignition coil, sabi sa negative daw pero parang lakas ng noise when I'm tuning to AM radio.


I've inspected connections of the HTW to tight connection.

1.) New Sparkies (Denso W16EX-U equivalent to NGK BP5ES)
2.) New Re-patched radiator (No Leak) / Radiator Cap recently changed [0.9]
3.) Radiator fan working (Rekta but I've installed a switch para pag cool naman or drop ang temp gauge, mapapatay ko)
4.) AC fans - good
5.) Tuned up (ang nakikita ko sa pressure gauge hooked up sa intake manifold is 26)
6.) Idle seems to be 800 RPM (wala po kasi akong tachometer)

Tools (nasa likod na lahat para kung masiraan hehe)

I'm ready to test tomorrow.

[Chinoi]

Optional: Condenser (0.6 ohms) to "+" of the ignition coil, sabi sa negative daw pero parang lakas ng noise when I'm tuning to AM radio.

Ang capacitor ay value reading ay dapat in microfarad. Usually around 0.1 mfd. For electrical noise filtering. Minsan ilagay iyan sa dc supply wire malapit sa AM radio para bawas electrical noice fron ignition system. Sa contact point type ay meron nakakabit sa - coil.

Sigurado ba 0.6 ohms na read mo sa capacitor out of the circuit? Kung actual resistance reading iyan ay shorted yun capacitor.

5.) Tuned up (ang nakikita ko sa pressure gauge hooked up sa intake manifold is 26)

Meron yata restriction sa intake manifold mo. Mataas kung sa idling rpm iyan. Dapat between 18-20. Ano sa tingin mo?