Very Hot High Tension Wire

[mongobread]

Good day to all,

I have a project car (4k Carb converted - 4g15 engine) that stall unexpectedly especially when AC is on (not a night-time when it's cool) but sometimes even in the day it may or not stall, nag stall siya mostly sa stop and go traffic but recently sa rektahang takbo. I have done radiator overhaul, cleaned the gas tank, new fuel lines and tubes under the car, new 4k carb, new fuel filters, regular change oil every 5k km as well as oil filters. Battery is at 12.95v not running and 14v+ when running.

New temp sender na rin pero my temp gauge seem busted kasi below 1/4 ng gauge okay ang takbo ko at pag aabot ng mag half dun ako nag-stall before. Now that radiator is leak free, less 1/4 gauge ko so malamig naman kotse pero nag-stall pa rin. And I notice na masyado mainit pa rin ang makina at radiator hoses seem to be bloated at ma-pressure di gaano mapiga at mahawakan dahil sa init.

I have installed new ignition coil, spark plugs are 5,000+ KM old NGK brand and my mechanic said it's still Okay pa naman.

I also found out that the high tension wire running from the coil to the distributor is brittle already so I have installed new set.

Before I installed it the HT wire is very hot so I thought it has something to do w/ the heat loosing electricity. But even after installing the new HT wire it stalled (one time), I'm not sure if it's the heating HT wire (hindi mahawakan) even it's new kaya nag-stall engine or dahil mukhang maluwag since medyo hindi pasok yun mga boots nya sa distributor at coil so what I did is pushed the wire itself further para magshoot sa mga holes saka tinulak ang boots to cover.

The ignition coil is very hot din even after 10 mins above drive in the afternoon, hindi mahawakan at nakakapaso ang init.

It's hard to tell if the engine is overheating kaya nag-stall because the temp at 1/4 nag stall pa rin.

I noticed sparkly sa water ng radiator na parang glitters, I think this is scraped na bakal so I'm planning to change my water pump even though na pag nag rev ako ay nababa naman tubig or may activity naman ang tubig sa radiator pag idle.

My mechanic said it's the cylinder head that needs resurfacing. I need second opinion sa inyo guys if the water pump didn't work out. I don't see oil naman sa tubig so hindi head gasket.

TIA

[dr. d]

gosh...
i haven't felt an ignition coil in a long time. but i do remember that it does get hot, but not scalding hot. and the hi tension cables shouldn't get really that hot..
my guess, is your ignition coil. if you can borrow a good one and temporarily exchange it..
btw, where did you get that brand, spankin' new 4K carburator? magkano po?

[mongobread]

Brand new na rin po Korea orig ang Ignition Coil. (1,300 php)
New 4k Carb (Cavite, Imus Autoshops) at (2,500 php)

Yun HT wires ay mainit lang sa part around spark plugs, since below it is the exhaust manifold at bumubuga ang radiator fan. Pero middle to distributor, tolerable ang init.

[mongobread]

Anyone guys?

[dr. d]

Anyone guys?

it's been a looong time.. but i seem to recall, some ignition coils have a resistor attached to it...

[mongobread]

it's been a looong time.. but i seem to recall, some ignition coils have a resistor attached to it...

Yes meron po yung akin, white bar about 2.5- 3 inches wide and 1 inch thick. Although it seems odd na lahat ng contact/wire na nakakabit sa resistor ay sa isang place lang at yun mga wires na yun parang papunta sa positive terminal ng ignition coil. Sa kabilang side naman ng resistor ay walang nakakabit. I'm still studying the wiring diagram nito.

Definitely I need a full re-wiring or wiring overhaul kasi salasalabat ang mga wirings eh. I plan to do it DIY, section by section.

[Manilablock]

long life coolant ba gamit mo sa radiator or tap water? opinion ko meron kang bara sa radiator.

[johnjoseph]

I think ignition coil ang culprit...try mo use one na normally gamit sa the same engine, kahit old na...nagkaroon ako ganiyan experience sa owner type jeep ko noon, new ignition coil, Delco pa ang brand, original, defective pala.

[mongobread]

I think ignition coil ang culprit...try mo use one na normally gamit sa the same engine, kahit old na...nagkaroon ako ganiyan experience sa owner type jeep ko noon, new ignition coil, Delco pa ang brand, original, defective pala.

Wala na yun dati, nabali ko yung positive pole kaya napabili ako at kahit yun dati ganun din ang problem ko. Nakabili ako ng very same ignition coil pero old stock na kasi nagiisa na lang daw, 1,300 ang price. Try ko yun tig-400 na Circuit brand muna if tumirik ulit ako after change HT wire. So far after securing contacts di pa ako tumirik.

[mongobread]

long life coolant ba gamit mo sa radiator or tap water? opinion ko meron kang bara sa radiator.

Purified water as the moment kasi natapon na yun Halvoline coolant ko nun nag pa overhaul ako ng radiator (2 liters ready mix na coolant at 3.2 liters na wilkins). I'm planning to bypass the heater core muna today kasi may napapansin akong pawis sa floor mat ko sa front passenger side pero tuyo naman carpet sa floor. I have two floor mat kasi, yun luma nasa ilalim at yun medyo bago bago nasa ibabaw at yun ang nagpapawis. Suspetya ko baka may leak sa heater core kaya nagpapawis. Kasi pansin ko medyo nagbabawas ang reservoir ko kahit wala pang isang linggo na simula magpatch mga leaks sa radiator.

Then I already bought new water pump, di ko nga lang na-iinstall pa. After that saka ako mag lagay ng Peak ethylene glycol 50/50 mix at ready na rin ang distilled water ko. Ayaw ko pa kasi maglagay dahil matatapon na naman kung maglagay agad ako habang magpalit ako ng water pump at bypassing heater ko.

So far today, di naman tumaas temp ko or dahil it's not sunny today. Malalaman ko bukas sana tirik araw para matesting.

[jick.cejoco]

If you can get a dwell meter, try measuring degrees dwell between terminal 1 and terminal 15. Typical 4 cylinder dwell is around 52 degrees.


Posted through phlpost.gov.ph

[mongobread]

If you can get a dwell meter, try measuring degrees dwell between terminal 1 and terminal 15. Typical 4 cylinder dwell is around 52 degrees.


Posted through phlpost.gov.ph

Unfortunately wala akong dwell meter. I'll try to ask my mechanic if magkita kami.

[jick.cejoco]

The trigger wire is just one wire. It is the power supply side that has two circuits: the run circuit(with the ballast resistor) and the start circuit(the one which is direct between the ignition switch and terminal 15 of the ignition coil)


Posted through phlpost.gov.ph

[mongobread]

Update:

I've re-tuned the car again today. Check the water's temp via external temp gauge, cool 70-90 deg C naman although mahirap sabihin kasi maghahapon-gabi na. Although we are seeing glitter-like particles na baka aluminum shavings ata.

Tomorrow ma-te-test sa manila's traffic, sana wag umulan at tumirik ang araw.

Sir jick, di ko pa na-inspect kung saan kumuha ng 12v feed ang mechanic ko, I'll try to trace.


Again, the setup is:

a.) 12v line from Ignition switch and "B" line from ignition module to Point A of ballast resistor. (Ballast resistor's resistance rating is 1.7 ohms)
b.) Point B of ballast resistor to "+" terminal of the ignition coil.
c.) "C" line from ignition module to "-" of the ignition coil.


Optional: Condenser (0.6 ohms) to "+" of the ignition coil, sabi sa negative daw pero parang lakas ng noise when I'm tuning to AM radio.


I've inspected connections of the HTW to tight connection.

1.) New Sparkies (Denso W16EX-U equivalent to NGK BP5ES)
2.) New Re-patched radiator (No Leak) / Radiator Cap recently changed [0.9]
3.) Radiator fan working (Rekta but I've installed a switch para pag cool naman or drop ang temp gauge, mapapatay ko)
4.) AC fans - good
5.) Tuned up (ang nakikita ko sa pressure gauge hooked up sa intake manifold is 26)
6.) Idle seems to be 800 RPM (wala po kasi akong tachometer)

Tools (nasa likod na lahat para kung masiraan hehe)

I'm ready to test tomorrow.

[Chinoi]

Optional: Condenser (0.6 ohms) to "+" of the ignition coil, sabi sa negative daw pero parang lakas ng noise when I'm tuning to AM radio.

Ang capacitor ay value reading ay dapat in microfarad. Usually around 0.1 mfd. For electrical noise filtering. Minsan ilagay iyan sa dc supply wire malapit sa AM radio para bawas electrical noice fron ignition system. Sa contact point type ay meron nakakabit sa - coil.

Sigurado ba 0.6 ohms na read mo sa capacitor out of the circuit? Kung actual resistance reading iyan ay shorted yun capacitor.

5.) Tuned up (ang nakikita ko sa pressure gauge hooked up sa intake manifold is 26)

Meron yata restriction sa intake manifold mo. Mataas kung sa idling rpm iyan. Dapat between 18-20. Ano sa tingin mo?

[mongobread]

Ang capacitor ay value reading ay dapat in microfarad. Usually around 0.1 mfd. For electrical noise filtering. Minsan ilagay iyan sa dc supply wire malapit sa AM radio para bawas electrical noice fron ignition system. Sa contact point type ay meron nakakabit sa - coil.

Sigurado ba 0.6 ohms na read mo sa capacitor out of the circuit? Kung actual resistance reading iyan ay shorted yun capacitor.





Meron yata restriction sa intake manifold mo. Mataas kung sa idling rpm iyan. Dapat between 18-20. Ano sa tingin mo?

Drove the car today and hindi naman ako tumirik. I'm expecting tirik sana araw ngayon unfortunately hindi nagpakita ang araw.

Route Alabang - skyway - bagtikan - edsa - pasay taft - cavitex - imus - alabang

Bumper to bumper ang traffic mula edsa onwards.. ignition coil is hot still...
..
======================================

About the condenser, I'm still learning electronics so I don't know if it's called capacitor. Nakita ko lang kasi na mukhang luma na nakakabit so binili ko yung kamukha nya at nakasulat ay 0.6 ohms. I didn't multitester it.. yung lang ang nakalagay sa packaging "Condenser" 0.6 ohms.


Hindi naman ako contact-point type, I guess the car had changed distributor to electronic ignition module kaya iba setup at hindi na inalis yung condenser. I can remove this na lang ba or retain para sa radio/stereo?

Kaya pala ang sinasabi ng mga naka usap kong mechanic sa "-" ng ignition coil nilalagay.

Pero electronic ignition module/igniter naman ako alisin ko na lang ba? Ang mga nabasa ko naman sa internet ay sa "+" ito nilalagay.

Tune up: Mukhang hindi naman mataas ang idling ko( wala kasi akong tachometer although I can feel na calm ang idling ngayon.)

I will post another thread about the tuning issues at the thread is about "very hot tension wire", and still it is. Even the coil.. yung firewall mainit din.. I don't know if this is normal though I still have lots to restore to the car like cooling system issues na post ko sa "yet another radiator cap pressure" question.

[mongobread]

Guys, so far hindi pa ako tumirik sa current setup ko na:

a.) 12v wire from ON/RUN key position plus "B" wire from ignition control module/igniter -> Point A Ballast Resistor
b.) Point B Ballast Resistor -> "+"/terminal 15 ignition coil
c.) "C" wire from ignition control module/igniter -> "-"/terminal 1 of ignition coil

But the ignition coil is still running hot that I can only touch it by 5 seconds if I ran 40 km.

Nagtry ako ng dalawang ballast resistor and ran 20km, so far hindi sya mainit ngayon at nahahawakan ko ng matagal.

The drawback is that it seems na out-of-tune ang kotse and it's running rich kasi maamoy ang tambutso.

Below is the volt reading I've done w/ 3 setups (no resistor, 1 resistor, and 2 resistor)


Can you comment kung okay lang ang readings ko sa 2 resistor at baka need ko lang itimpla ang fuel/air mixture. So far din kasi sa 2 ballast resistor parang maganda ang takbo at matipid ako sa gasoline.

Baka dahil humina lang ang spark or need advance/retard ang timing dahil iba na ulit ang pasok ng kuryente sa sparkies.

====================
No Ballast Resistor
+ to - coil reads = 4.5 erratic
+ to ground engine/chasis = 14.3 / 13.8 erratic
==================
1 Ballast Resistor(1.6 ohms)

Point A to Ground reads 13.8V
Point A to "-" coil reads 5.8 - 5.9 to 2.9 erratic
+ to - coil reads 2.7 volts
+ to ground engine/chasis 10.xx
==================
2 Ballast Resistor (1.6 ohms each)
Point A to Ground reads 14.6V / 13.5v
Point A to "-" coil reads 6.9 erratic
+ to - coil reads 1.9 volts erratic
+ to ground engine/chasis 9.7v to 10.xx volts

TIA