shorted park lights terminals

[eek12]

i was troubleshooting my retrofit relay. then i rewire it allover. then nung una ok siya then nung ififinalize ko na, bigla ayaw umilaw nung park lights. then i check the fuse. ok naman. then i check the continuity of the + and - of park lights. It is shorted! i even checked the continuity of the MICU terminal number 15, it is also shorted... can you suggest kung anu dapat icheck? need urgent help.. thanks!

[bambino]

isolate the relay you just installed ad use an amp gauge to check the suspect wires you think may have caused it.

[eek12]

is it possible na yung wiring ang nag cause ng short? kasi tinanggal ko na lahat ng kinabit ko e, then i check the continuity of park lights terminal, shorted paden e.. huhu.. na DIY ko ata, destroy it yourself...

[bambino]

continuity test can only be useful if the problem circuit is narrowed down to one .pero sa ngayon kailangan mo i set yung multimeter mo sa amp mode then hook the probe to batt + and the other probe to the suspected wire .make sure you have the right diagram to start with.

[oj88]

continuity test can only be useful if the problem circuit is narrowed down to one .pero sa ngayon kailangan mo i set yung multimeter mo sa amp mode then hook the probe to batt + and the other probe to the suspected wire .make sure you have the right diagram to start with.

Not a good idea. If there's indeed something wrong with the circuit, doing that will cause a short and most likely pop a fuse on the multimeter.

I would suggest bringing it back to stock and disconnecting anything that was previously added then check again.

Oh btw, it is possible that when the parklights are off, both pins are connected to ground. That's usually how it is on signal lamps.

[bambino]

*OJ88 , if the TS knows how to use a multimeter and read a diagram there shouldn't be a busted multimeter .OF COURSE COMMON SENSE LANG ,PAG PINPOINTED NA YUNG TROUBLE HINDI MO IBABABAD YUNG PROBE SA PROBLEM WIRE.

i use the procedure on dealing with my customers electrical problems all the time.

LICENCED CLASS A MECHANIC
LICENCED TRUCK MECHANIC
AUTO ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS SPECIALIST
A/C SPECIALIST
CONSULTANT TO INDEPENDENT SHOPS
AUTOMOTIVE EQUIPMENT DESIGNER

[bambino]

Oh btw, it is possible that when the parklights are off, both pins are connected to ground. That's usually how it is on signal lamps.

i don't think you are right about this / you might as well pull out any car wiring diagram of park light or signal lights and review your theory . correct me if i'm wrong.

[oj88]

*OJ88 , if the TS knows how to use a multimeter and read a diagram there shouldn't be a busted multimeter .OF COURSE COMMON SENSE LANG ,PAG PINPOINTED NA YUNG TROUBLE HINDI MO IBABABAD YUNG PROBE SA PROBLEM WIRE.

i use the procedure on dealing with my customers electrical problems all the time.

LICENCED CLASS A MECHANIC
LICENCED TRUCK MECHANIC
AUTO ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS SPECIALIST
A/C SPECIALIST
CONSULTANT TO INDEPENDENT SHOPS
AUTOMOTIVE EQUIPMENT DESIGNER

Please... Let's not stoop down to slapping badges at each other's faces... totally uncalled for. I posted that because the method you proposed has a potential for causing harm, whether on the test equipment or the car's electrical system. You're assuming that the TS knows what you're thinking. Most multimeters have an Amp limit of 10 or 20A. Connecting one probe to B+ and another to an unknown pin is inviting trouble. Maybe set it first to measuring voltage and compare the voltage between B+ and B-(or chassis) and B+ and the bulb pins. If the readings are the same, the bulb pins are therefore grounded to the chassis somehow. Shunting the Amp-meter probes to B+ and the bulb pins could destroy the MICU.

Look, I'm not professing that everything I say is right. I'm just throwing ideas into the mix.

When I said that the (+) pin on the signal lights goes to (-) when off, I meant it like the explanation below. Sorry if I wasn't clear enough.

This is on Honda cars equipped with a MICU. When both the turn signal light or hazard switches are off, the (+) pin on all bulbs are floating (neither connected to + or -). But when the turn signals are engaged, the (+) or 'tip' on the bulbs alternates between + and - in the cadence of the flashing lamp. Unlike older cars that have discrete circuits for signal lights, park lights, horns, etc., these functions are all integrated into the MICU. The MICU controls the relays that operates everything outside the engine (ECM) or A/T (PCM).

[bambino]

if the TS has no knowledge of using a multimeter he shouldn't be performing these at all but the way i see it ,he knows how to test circuits and install a relay . that's why i started of giving him pointers how to use an amp gauge with the right diagram available .

without the diagram he shouldn't be touching the car at all.

it's up to the TS if he wants to follow this or not.

i assume that you're a tech too , because i think you have the will to question some other posters here .

you can always post what you have and that's a sign of being competitive not to get annoyed with other posters achievements . you can always post it.

that's who we are here , customers are more confident talking to the techs with something to show to them.

[oj88]

^ I guess I have to agree on showing some badges to gain credibility. But maybe do so with a little bit more subtlety? ;)

Anyway, do consider that a lot of people can work with relays too, but with very limited knowledge of general electrical theory. Just saying. No offense to anyone.

*eek12,

Do you mean Fuse 15 instead of Terminal 15? If the latter, which terminal 15 were you testing? I believe there's F15, G15, etc. Also, what's the car's specific model and year?

[testament11]

ok, let me continue this thread kasi ako kasama niyan nung ginagawa namin yan kasi.

so ganito mga sirs, fuse number 15, which is yun park light ang pumuputok. as for the car, civic FD 2007 1.8s ang kotse.

ganito kasi, nirereplace namin yun flashing problem circuit ng civic kahapon. ang problema, bigla nalang total shutdown ang park lights nung naka-on ang park lights at nag-flash kami. eh based naman sa diagram, hindi naman puputok ang park light fuse dahil separate naman siya sa high beam. so paano nangyari yun? hanggang ngayon, yan ang iniisip ko... so please lang po, paki-tulungan niyo friend ko, thanks...

[oj88]

Is the "flashing" circuit you guys added the one that allows you to flash the high beams without flashing the low beams, presumably to protect the HID ballast?

Please post the wiring diagram you guys used. And also which Civic FD electrical diagram are you using as reference? I know that there were several different versions of it wherein the fuse locations were slightly different.

[testament11]

yun nga oj, yun flashing circuit to protect the hid. ang reference namin, is the one found at team fd pero with the additional na nilagyan ko ng relay na rin yun high beam

[bambino]

some cases kailangan ng scanner para ireset yung light control module . pero im going to post you the tech info as soon as possible .

i have a complete tech info at disposal ,coverage up to 2008 .

[testament11]

sure thing sir, salamat ng marami..

[eek12]

thanks sa mga tulong ninyo... i finally figure it out... naayos ko na po...

paki close na po ung thread...

[oj88]

thanks sa mga tulong ninyo... i finally figure it out... naayos ko na po...

paki close na po ung thread...

Bago i-close, paano naayos?