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  1. Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    592
    #371
    Quote Originally Posted by miko101130 View Post
    just installed heatsink on my two 55 watt ballast.. took me a couple of hours. i attached it to the back of the ballast and put thermal compound in between them.. the heatsink i was able to get was exact fit on the whole backside of the ballast... tested it tonight and it made a lot of difference...there is a noticeable drop in surface temp of the ballast,, the heatsink is now the hotter among the two.. its a nice DIY.
    nice no fan? i'm more apprehensive of the heat of the projectors but i guess they're built for high heat.

  2. Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    1,243
    #372
    Quote Originally Posted by jmpet626 View Post
    Yung G5 na projectors Hi-Lo capability na din ba yung bulb na kakasya sakanya?
    for projectors, it's not the bulb that the controls the hi/lo capability rather its the shield of the projectors.



    at high beam, shield is pulled down to expose more light

  3. Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    #373
    Quote Originally Posted by miko101130 View Post
    just installed heatsink on my two 55 watt ballast.. took me a couple of hours. i attached it to the back of the ballast and put thermal compound in between them.. the heatsink i was able to get was exact fit on the whole backside of the ballast... tested it tonight and it made a lot of difference...there is a noticeable drop in surface temp of the ballast,, the heatsink is now the hotter among the two.. its a nice DIY.
    Quote Originally Posted by indiej View Post
    nice no fan? i'm more apprehensive of the heat of the projectors but i guess they're built for high heat.
    i have opened up my test ballast several months ago to check the possibility of boosting it up. these the things that i found out.
    - internal components are potted , this makes the ballast waterproof.
    - top and bottom parts are insulated by potting material against the thin metal cover. so IMO this is not the place to connect the heatsink.
    - the mosfets that generate most of the heat are actually mounted on the side of the casing which is thick and is actually used as the heatsink. this should be the part of the casing to mount the heatsink if you want to install them.

    and yes, I'm also more concerned on the effect of heat generated by the bulb to the projector reflector bowl rather than the heat of the ballast.

  4. Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    592
    #374
    i wish you have oem ballasts for those kickass TL projectors. even the 5five ballasts heat is minimal. better performance overall and safer and compatible for your bulbs. although you might have something in mind with your electronics knowhow.

  5. Join Date
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    #375
    Quote Originally Posted by indiej View Post
    i wish you have oem ballasts for those kickass TL projectors. even the 5five ballasts heat is minimal. better performance overall and safer and compatible for your bulbs. although you might have something in mind with your electronics knowhow.
    I'm been itching to install my TL with OEM Philips 85122+ bulbs but too busy at work. The new 5five ballast is still not available at the moment. I'm doing the shield mod and lens spacing to have the perfect cut-off. The philips when powered by 55 watts is just too yellow for my taste. I planning to sell them and get the Osram CBI FTW!

  6. Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    986
    #376
    Quote Originally Posted by Ginnova View Post
    i have opened up my test ballast several months ago to check the possibility of boosting it up. these the things that i found out.
    - internal components are potted , this makes the ballast waterproof.
    - top and bottom parts are insulated by potting material against the thin metal cover. so IMO this is not the place to connect the heatsink.
    - the mosfets that generate most of the heat are actually mounted on the side of the casing which is thick and is actually used as the heatsink. this should be the part of the casing to mount the heatsink if you want to install them.

    and yes, I'm also more concerned on the effect of heat generated by the bulb to the projector reflector bowl rather than the heat of the ballast.
    any electronics will need to dissipate heat. the sidewall of the ballast that you claim that act as a heatsink will still transfer the heat towards the front and back metal portions(through conduction), any metal will still conduct heat therefore making additional heatsink a viable option. (conduction>>>thermal convection= lower temps).. the exhaust of a car is not directly attached to the frame of the car but still if you touch your carpet its warm...

    the temperature generated by the bulb is moot, we cannot do anything to make the temperature of the bulb go down, unless you go below 35 watts hid.. there is a thread on the hid planet conducting test on different bulb, it includes heat, cool down re-strike, and warm up time and including lumens and amperage draw.. from what i can remember the Chinese brands are at par with performance vs. OEM's and only looses to longevity..

    for me if the reflector bowl gets fried in a span two years, that is still money well spent... maybe then there are gen10 models...
    personally, i dont think the gen5 bowl will be melting anytime soon... the 55 watt ballast bulb heat increase is only around 10 to 15 degrees.

    if money is not a factor i really want to go the all retrofit way.. quad projectors(fxr x4)hehe/ OEM bulbs/OEM ballast/ the whole nine yards, but it will cost an arm and a leg and maybe the torso..

  7. Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    592
    #377
    Quote Originally Posted by Ginnova View Post
    I'm been itching to install my TL with OEM Philips 85122+ bulbs but too busy at work. The new 5five ballast is still not available at the moment. I'm doing the shield mod and lens spacing to have the perfect cut-off. The philips when powered by 55 watts is just too yellow for my taste. I planning to sell them and get the Osram CBI FTW!
    i encourage you to take your time. it's been 5 months that i've been sleeping and playing with these wonderful orbs.

    ah, otoh i want to go down 35w philips afterwards.

  8. Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    592
    #378
    mikko if someone can carry them in, maybe the cost will just be purchasing it from TRS for you. plus (borrow) dremel and mounting tools and sealants, but i don't think about those anymore, too giddy with the DIY project. and whatever business keeps you from completing the project, prolongs the excitement. it also gives you a lot of time figuring the best way to go about things. junkie over here

    time to start the "DIY HID Retrofit Club" thread already

    yes Gen 10. also LED headlights incoming. endless hobbies

  9. Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    986
    #379
    Quote Originally Posted by indiej View Post
    mikko if someone can carry them in, maybe the cost will just be purchasing it from TRS for you. plus (borrow) dremel and mounting tools and sealants, but i don't think about those anymore, too giddy with the DIY project. and whatever business keeps you from completing the project, prolongs the excitement. it also gives you a lot of time figuring the best way to go about things. junkie over here

    time to start the "DIY HID Retrofit Club" thread already

    yes Gen 10. also LED headlights incoming. endless hobbies
    DIY HID Retrofit Club- nice idea indiej.... that would be nice.really nice.hehe

    shipping is the problem, its expensive.. but hey balikbayan box is an option... im also planning into retrofitting my ride completely, im planning on using FXR's on main beam.. but I'll tinker a bit. i saw a 70-100 watt hid in a forum abroad...

  10. Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    1,243
    #380
    No offense meant on my previous post. There's no harm in putting a heatsink on the ballast as it aids in dissipating heat. In fact I have heatsinks installed on my 1st set of slim ballasts. The heat on these slims are much more than the ordinary ballast. Note also that the casing are way thicker including the front and back cover compared to the standard ballast.



    But to dissipate heat efficiently, the heatsink should be placed on a solid/thick portion of the casing and closest to the component where excessive heat is generated. That's the reason why I suggested to put the heatsink on the sides rather than on the front/back cover which is too thin to efficiently dissipate heat. As shown on the next picture, components are too far from the front/back cover to transfer heat.


Bolt-on bi-xenon projectors