MPV buying guide

[Lakwatsero]

The BRV is already more expensive than the Mobilio. The Mobilio RS is priced about the same as the lower and mid trim BRV. Both vehicles use the same platform, engine, and tranny. Only difference is that the Mobilio is marketed as an MPV while the BRV is marketed as a small SUV.


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Mobilio RS is 1.085M, BR-V S is 1.035M. 50k can go a long way for PMS and fuel. Afaik, only the Mobilio RS has ESC, BR-V has it standard.

If OP can afford the RS, he should strongly consider the BR-V S given the similar features and drivetrain at a lower pricetag.

[yubby24]

Anu mas maganda bilhin in terms of price and quality?
Suzuki Ertriga GLX 1.5 AT or Honda Mobilio 1.5L RS Navi?

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Was in a similar situation before. Ended up buying Mobilio as it is what the wife had most of the checks in her checklist.

Di naman kami nadisappoint. Fuel-efficient and gets the job done naman. Nadala ko na sya hanggang Panaon, Misamis Occidental by land from Pasig and back.

[bxr monkey]

Okay nga ang BRV S as an alternative sa Mobilio RS, mas mura pa at same safety features. Preference na lang siguro sa looks: wagon vs. crossover.

Xpander GLS (or Sport) nasa 1M flat (or lower 1M) din after discounts. Xpander at Ertiga choices ko, dahil lang sa bias sa CVT maintenance. 2020 GLS naka LED headlights na. Vs. 2019 GLS Sport models na heavily discounted. Lamang ng GLS Sport iyong extra safety features.

Lamang ng Honda options ay extra safety features (vs. Ertiga at Xpander GLS).
Tapos 2nd row middle seat may headrest + 3pt. Seatbelt.

Okay din ang Innova 2.0 E AT nasa 1.1M siguro after discounts. Sa mga kuwento kuwento, matakaw lang sa gas.

[12vdc]

I'd avoid the CVT.

CVT is for small cars not for people carrier like 7s MPV.

Get the trad stepped A/T.

[Egan101]

I'd avoid the CVT.

CVT is for small cars not for people carrier like 7s MPV.

Get the trad stepped A/T.

Not all CVTs are the same. Honda uses CVT among a number of its bigger vehicles - Civic, HRV, CRV, and Accord. These cars have more powerful engines than the one used on the City/Jazz/Mobilio/BRV.

Subaru also uses CVT in most of its model line-up even those with turbo engines rated at well over 200hp. These includes the Impreza, XV, Forester, Levorg, WRX, Outback, and even the 7-seater Ascent.

Maintenance might be more expensive with a CVT but you could never say that CVT is just for small cars.


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[travajante]

I'd avoid the CVT.

CVT is for small cars not for people carrier like 7s MPV.

Get the trad stepped A/T.

+1....not sold.[emoji4]

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[Egan101]

+1....not sold.[emoji4]

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Are you agreeing to what he is saying that CVT is just for small vehicles? I guess your bias against CVT is just that bad that you will fuel any idea that defies it.


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[yapoy86]

Not all CVTs are the same. Honda uses CVT among a number of its bigger vehicles - Civic, HRV, CRV, and Accord. These cars have more powerful engines than the one used on the City/Jazz/Mobilio/BRV.

Subaru also uses CVT in most of its model line-up even those with turbo engines rated at well over 200hp. These includes the Impreza, XV, Forester, Levorg, WRX, Outback, and even the 7-seater Ascent.

Maintenance might be more expensive with a CVT but you could never say that CVT is just for small cars.


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I think cvt will do fine.. but the question is how long? Especially when youre pulling load. Cvt are not yet used on diesel engines due to higher torque delivery of diesels on low revs

[17Sphynx17]

I'd avoid the CVT.

CVT is for small cars not for people carrier like 7s MPV.

Get the trad stepped A/T.

Honda doesn't use JATCO for their CVT transmission so that alone is already a big plus.
And, per my knowledge, the CVT issues that Honda suffered were for their pre-2010 CVTs that were fitted to the Jazz (!st gen) and the City (2nd Gen).

If you are aware of Honda CVT failures, am curious and would like to see them.

The main requirement by Honda Phils for the PMS is that CVT Fluid Change be done every 2 years which is what will make the maintenance cost higher than your traditional AT counterparts.

My experience with driving "regular NA" engine CVT is with a 2008 i-Dsi 1.3L Honda City (bought this a month before the new model was launched but it was by choice. The new model was going to cost 100k php more just for additional airbags and a new 1.3 VTEC engine). We still own and use this car, performs okay still. This has gone through a total of 3 CVTF changes for its life with us. We personally didn't follow Honda's 2 year requirement but that was our choice/risk. This is also the same generation of CVTs Honda used that had issues.

The other CVT I drive is a 2014 1.6L Nissan Sylphy CVT (This uses the dreaded Jatco CVT. Has gone through 1 CVTF change.) This is the CVT that I pay attention to more if there are shudders appearing. So far none but I've only driven it around 35k kms for its whole like.

My main advice when driving CVTs is don't floor it but get used to gradual/linear acceleration. I personally only reach 3000rpm in the 2 CVT equipped vehicles when I want to accelerate a bit faster and once it reaches the speed I want (within speed limit), it usually falls below 2000rpm (or even 1500rpm) for a proper coast only.

When loaded, instead of just being reliant on "D", know when to use Sport Mode (if equipped) or "L". It avoids slipping of the CVT. I use Sport Mode or Low, usually when going uphill or downhill so it can stick to a more proper "gear" (i use this loosely) or speed.

So if we are imagining to compare to a regular AT, using sport mode in the CVTs I used sort of limits it to the feeling of having one less gear (so if simulating D as having 5 gears, S would only give you 4 gears but a little harder acceleration). For Low, it limits it to a "2nd gear" effect. At least this has been my experience with a CVT.

If you've driven manual transmissions, you'd also have an idea about what gear to stick with in a climb or downhill. At least reducing stress to the brakes or transmission.

And, just to point out, having regular ATs doesn't automatically mean you won't overheat your transmission. I recall specific issues with Montero ATs that went into limp mode because the drivers only stayed in "D". When going through up and downhills, I personally use manual mode on the Montero or Fortuner of my brother when going through such terrain.

For the Montero personally, I've driven it from Manila to Camarines Norte and back within 24 hours. Total travel time was 14 hours (Fastest) and 16-17 hours (slowest). Total distance covered was about 700kms on one tank of diesel.

[yapoy86]

I read somewhere that manufacturers are now including a physical gear for the first gear then shift to cvt on higher gears..