Sound System Upgrade Suggestions for a Newbie..

[tata_ismael]

Salamat sir tsikotshop sa advice nyo po.. pero chineck ko po sa DLS website yung specs nya and bridgeable po cya.. ang nakopya nyo po na specs ay para sa DLS CA50 po ata, yung lumang version po ata..

eto po ang specs at website ng CA51:

http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_104

Number of channels 5
Amplifier class AB
Output power in 4 ohm 4 x 50 W RMS
Output power in 2 ohm 4 x 80 W RMS
Mono bridge mode 4 ohm 2 x 150 W RMS
Mono sub channel 4 ohm 170 W
Mono sub channel 2 ohm 225 W
Damping factor > 100
S/N ratio, A-weighted > 100 dB
Frequency range 10 Hz - 35 kHz
Input sensitivity 0,25 - 5 V
Input impedance > 10 kohm
Input impedance, high level 100 ohm
Filters channel A & B HP: 15-500 Hz. LP: 50-500 Hz / 05 - 5 kHz (x10)
Low level output No
Filters channel C & D HP: 15-500 Hz / 150 Hz - 5 kHz (x10).
Filters channel E LP: 60 - 120 Hz + subsonic 25 Hz
Phase control for subwoofers 0-180 degrees cont. variable
High level input with auto start Yes
Power consumption (idle) 1 A
Power consumption (max) 90 A
Rec. power cable Minimum 4AWG / 21 mm2
Fuses 3 x 30 A

Maliban po sa t600-4 (mahal kase), ano pa po bagay na amp sa set-up ko? nobelium seps at 10" reference sub po pag gagamitan..

yung soundmagus h500 ok po ba yun? eto po specs nya:

RMS Power at 14.4V (into 4 ohm THD+N < 1%) 90W X 4 + 300W
4 Ohm Bridged RMS Power at 14.4V (into 4 ohm THD+N < 1%) = 260 X *2 + 500W
4x Channel Frequency 20Hz~50KHz
Woofer Channel Frequency 10~180Hz
4 x Channel HPF 20Hz~200Hz
Woofer Channel LPF 40~180Hz
Woofer SubSonic Filter 10~50Hz
THD at 4Ohm load All channel <0.1%
Woofer Signal from 4 x Channel switch Yes
S/N Ratio >70dB
Minimum Load 2ohm for all channel
Optional Woofer Remote YES
High Level Input N/A

Salamat po..

[tsikotshop]

i dont understand why some people na nagpapasound setup ay gumagamit pa ng coax gayung naka separates na sila. usualy kapag may seps kana useless na gumamit ng coax papangit lang combi ng music kung may coax kapa. if di kontento sa tunog ng seps sa amp lang ang tweak jan.

and karamihan sa mga naka coax kinacut ang tweeter at saka sila gumagamit ng separate na tweet. advice ko lang naman ito since nasa sound setup line ang work ko.

and another info sir, mas maganda kung straight 1 brand sa sub and seps, sa amp maganda ang sound magus for seps loud and clear

A sir, To get the best sounding and the most natural sound, is to have a spacial ambience that is created by good frontal imaging and just a touch of the rear. Most rear speakers provide the best bass response, especially if they have a large cavity—like a trunk, behind them. Replacing factory speakers with performance rear speakers like coaxial speakers can really make a dynamic improvement in the sound reproduction of most car sound systems. With rear speakers sophisticated construction and superior performance, it can reproduce a virtual sound stage accurately from behind. The way of coaxial is to have a full range speaker at the back to get the sound stage complete..

[tsikotshop]

Salamat sir tsikotshop sa advice nyo po.. pero chineck ko po sa DLS website yung specs nya and bridgeable po cya.. ang nakopya nyo po na specs ay para sa DLS CA50 po ata, yung lumang version po ata..

eto po ang specs at website ng CA51:

http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_104

Number of channels 5
Amplifier class AB
Output power in 4 ohm 4 x 50 W RMS
Output power in 2 ohm 4 x 80 W RMS
Mono bridge mode 4 ohm 2 x 150 W RMS
Mono sub channel 4 ohm 170 W
Mono sub channel 2 ohm 225 W
Damping factor > 100
S/N ratio, A-weighted > 100 dB
Frequency range 10 Hz - 35 kHz
Input sensitivity 0,25 - 5 V
Input impedance > 10 kohm
Input impedance, high level 100 ohm
Filters channel A & B HP: 15-500 Hz. LP: 50-500 Hz / 05 - 5 kHz (x10)
Low level output No
Filters channel C & D HP: 15-500 Hz / 150 Hz - 5 kHz (x10).
Filters channel E LP: 60 - 120 Hz + subsonic 25 Hz
Phase control for subwoofers 0-180 degrees cont. variable
High level input with auto start Yes
Power consumption (idle) 1 A
Power consumption (max) 90 A
Rec. power cable Minimum 4AWG / 21 mm2
Fuses 3 x 30 A

Maliban po sa t600-4 (mahal kase), ano pa po bagay na amp sa set-up ko? nobelium seps at 10" reference sub po pag gagamitan..

yung soundmagus h500 ok po ba yun? eto po specs nya:

RMS Power at 14.4V (into 4 ohm THD+N < 1%) 90W X 4 + 300W
4 Ohm Bridged RMS Power at 14.4V (into 4 ohm THD+N < 1%) = 260 X *2 + 500W
4x Channel Frequency 20Hz~50KHz
Woofer Channel Frequency 10~180Hz
4 x Channel HPF 20Hz~200Hz
Woofer Channel LPF 40~180Hz
Woofer SubSonic Filter 10~50Hz
THD at 4Ohm load All channel <0.1%
Woofer Signal from 4 x Channel switch Yes
S/N Ratio >70dB
Minimum Load 2ohm for all channel
Optional Woofer Remote YES
High Level Input N/A

Salamat po..

A sir, sorry, but how do you want to filter the signals there, do you want to used another crossover to do the work because the frequency response of the first 4 channel is different? or maybe set those to off.. a sir, iwas po kase ako sa bridge pagdating sa seps e, the THD there are rising everytime your volume up and specially in low power na di natin maiwasan.

I also try the sound magus later, it producing a good sound but it also sensitive in power in talking with vocals, at 14.4 volts, that is usually hard to maintain, i recommend an additional capacitor at least 2 farad and a good wiring power supply to simply found a good performance from these amp, thanks po and good luck..

[tata_ismael]

Oo nga sir, magkaiba nga ng filters.. Buti na lang na point out nyo po.. Anyway, nagreresearch pa lang naman po ako kung ano magandang gamitin.. balak ko po sana kase 1 amp lang para hindi magulo tapos same brand ng mga speakers sana para malinis tingnan, kaso hindi pala ganun kadali...

other options ko po ito:

1. DLS CA31 (65x2 + 170) kaso underpowered

2. DLS CA23 (135x2) for the seps PLUS another mono amp for the sub

3. DLS CA51 and use an active crossover na lang for the 4 channels if bridged..

any other suggestions are welcome po..

thanks!

[tsikotshop]

Oo nga sir, magkaiba nga ng filters.. Buti na lang na point out nyo po.. Anyway, nagreresearch pa lang naman po ako kung ano magandang gamitin.. balak ko po sana kase 1 amp lang para hindi magulo tapos same brand ng mga speakers sana para malinis tingnan, kaso hindi pala ganun kadali...

other options ko po ito:

1. DLS CA31 (65x2 + 170) kaso underpowered

2. DLS CA23 (135x2) for the seps PLUS another mono amp for the sub

3. DLS CA51 and use an active crossover na lang for the 4 channels if bridged..

any other suggestions are welcome po..

thanks!

sir, this is my another suggestion, the power of these is like the T-600 4 rf,.
http://www.powerbassusa.com/asa-6004x-4-ch-amplifier.. check nyo na lang po, and its only around 10k, meron na po kami nyan e..

[jhnkvn]

Haha, funny on how I'm revisiting this thread trying to crank ideas for my next setup

Ingit ako sa Nobelium series. Dang, even I would buy them at 10k. Seems very well taken care of according to the pictures. Haven't heard of them so di ko alam if they're better than Focal Polykevs. However, the UP6i really is superior than the Polyglass in aural reproduction when I last heard of them (ingit nga eh). For their general sound signatures, Focal's have a tingly highs a.k.a. "lively" sila whereas DLS have a more laid back treble balance. Polk is right around the middle.. good balance. If you're hearing more of acoustics, Focals hit the right spot.

EDIT: Not too much of a bang-per-buck daw Nobelium. Friend still prefers Polykev's aggressiveness.

Have heard good reviews with the Powerbass. Which is why I included it in my list of amps (refer to other thread). Very smooth and clean daw. And I really dig the design... very minimalist and sleek.

As for the woofer, as for the SQ setup, di ako sure kung DLS ako or JL Audio for the subs. In either way, can't go wrong.

Meron pa bang DLS W710 sa market today? At what price?

Also not a convert of the surround sound by putting coaxials at the rear. IMO it's still better to have a front sound stage like those in live concerts. Kapag music, harap. Kapag games or movies, surround is good.

*Tsikotshop
Meron ba kayong Powerbass yun 5 channel?

[tata_ismael]

* sir jhnkvn - di ko maafford polykevs.. naswertehan lang talaga ako at nag migrate ng australia yung may-ari ng nobeliums kaya benta nya ng mura.. wala na atang w710, napalitan na ng rw10.. mura lang din bili ko nung w710, 4k lang kasama na box and wirings.. di pa masyadong gamit (2-months lang) kase nagpalit siya agad ng iridium subs because malakas yung amps nya for the w710..

* sir tsikot - kumusta po performance ng 5-channel amp ng powerbass? yan po ba yung 1100.5 or 700.5?

hay naku, wala pa rin akong amplifiers.. hehe also considering powerbass, antay pa ko ng reviews nyo..

and talk about luck.. I also found an extra pair of Focal TN47 tweeters and 2 pairs of MTX thunder passive crossovers lying around.. what can i do with these kaya?

Good day guys!

[tsikotshop]

If i believe in written rating of that amp, its good, but i haven't tried it yet, will ask someone who just tried it. Just if you want these one, manage your power supply system to its peak, to maximize these amp ability and deliver accurate sound quality, if the said voltage requirement is not followed correctly, specially when it loading very low impedances, it will give you weak performance, , and these amp is in ab mode, so be strong, the classes A, AB, BD, and D are still in progress on how do the sound engineers will achieved the best sounding and efficient amplifier, Briefly, Class A amps sound the best, cost the most, and are the least practical. They waste power and return very clean signals. Class AB amps dominate the market and rival the best Class A amps in sound quality. They use less power than Class A, and can be cheaper, smaller, cooler, and lighter. Class D amps are even smaller than Class AB amps and more efficient, because they use high-speed switching rather than linear control. Starting in the late 1990s, Class D amps have become quite good, and in some cases rivaling high quality amps in sound quality. Class B & Class C amps aren't used in audio. A new technology in amp is born at rockford fosgate today, the class AD 4 channel amp, can't wait to try that one..

[tata_ismael]

Good day guys, just an update.. i talked with a friend na naman and he adviced me to get a separate mono amp for my sub.. dikit ko na lang daw sa likod ng box para madaling tanggalin in case marami akong karga.. so my options have changed ulit, pasensya na..

here are some (budget of around 20-25k):

1. DLS CA23 + DLS XA10 (135x2 + 200w) = 24k
2. CA41 + Sound Magus DK600 (200x2 bridged + 400w) = 22k
3. RF Prime 300.4 + 500.1 (150x2 + 320w) = 19k
4. Powerbass ASA 600.4 + ASA 600.1 (400x2 bridged + 300w) = price?

Most appealing to me as of now is the RF Prime combo since it is the cheapest option.. Any other suggestions?

Any of you guys ever tried the Sundown SAX 125.2 amplifier?

TIA!

[tsikotshop]

powerbass sir, pm me if you want the price and best deal offer by tsikotshop, its the best option and very practical like the other, the power is very nice and good and these amps meet the need of serious audiophile, pure, clean, and accurate.

[jhnkvn]

DLS pala sub mo, akala ko JL first na nakita ko kasi W7 eh.. agad pumasok sa utak ko JL Audio.

[tsikotshop]

4. Powerbass ASA 600.4 + ASA 600.1 (400x2 bridged + 300w) = price?

TIA!

around 20k++ lang po ito sir ngayon

[jhnkvn]

I'd go for the DLS first. Less about the wattage, more about the sound quality. Besides, you wouldn't want to be putting 400W into the Nobeliums. You'll have to gain back the tweets unless you plan on frying them.

Rockfords are surprisingly clean and packs a punch. Personally, I think they're cleaner than Powerbass.

So, in order of preference:
1
3
2 and 4

[glenn manikis]

newbie lang sir... ok lang po ba o... pwede bang 2 sets of lightning lab seperates ang ikabit ko? ipapalit ko sa mga speakers ko?
do i need to buy amplifiers?

maganda at matibay po ba ang 2din touch screen dvd na fidelity na head unit w/o gps?

[jhnkvn]

Knowing Lightning Lab's uhh... "reputation", you need not have it amplified. If you are willing to go that route, it's best to choose a better speaker system IMO.

As for the 2-DIN HU, I can't comment on that since wala ako experience dyan. I would note that China-made 2DIN units are a hit and miss love. They're cheaper than branded ones from Pioneer, Alpine, etc. but they do have their own quality issues. For most, don't worry about it and get whatever suits the price ;)

[glenn manikis]

Knowing Lightning Lab's uhh... "reputation", you need not have it amplified. If you are willing to go that route, it's best to choose a better speaker system IMO.

As for the 2-DIN HU, I can't comment on that since wala ako experience dyan. I would note that China-made 2DIN units are a hit and miss love. They're cheaper than branded ones from Pioneer, Alpine, etc. but they do have their own quality issues. For most, don't worry about it and get whatever suits the price ;)

sir why i dont need it amplified? maganda na po ba ang sq ng lightning lab seperates

Lightning Lab 336is 6.5 150 Rms Seperates Raw Driver Midrange

SPECS:

Loud Speaker's Diameter : 6.5" inches

Mounting Depth : 4" inches

MAX input Power : 320Watts

RMS input Power : 150RMS

Voice Coil size : 1.5" inch

Frequency Response : 80 Hz ~ 30 KHz

Tweeter's Diameter : 2" x 2.75"

Voice Coil size for tweeter : 1"

Titanium diaphragm

[trucker111]

what is the best HU replacement for 2012 avanza g? pls advice the brand and model no.
thanks

[jhnkvn]

*glenn

Why don't you need it amplified? Because you'll only rack up additional cost in purchasing the amplifier, housing it, and running the wires. Of course, feel free to amplify it if you have the additional budget to do so since amplifying really improves the sound from stock. However, most people (read: 70% of the population) would be happy in just replacing the stock paper cones that came with their vehicle to aftermarket ones.

As for the SQ, that's subjective. If you haven't heard a good system, even a bad system would sound good. However I myself wouldn't touch Lightning Lab as it's too generic-friendly (probably rebranded China stuff). They have got their names all over... and for the budget of 3k, I would rather get Targas which is proudly manufactured locally.

*trucker
Any head unit that fits your budget really... if really want the "best", go check out Pioneer's ODR or Alpine F#1 Status that runs up to 6-digits (yep, they're around 100,000php) for the head unit system alone.

[trucker111]

*trucker
Any head unit that fits your budget really... if really want the "best", go check out Pioneer's ODR or Alpine F#1 Status that runs up to 6-digits (yep, they're around 100,000php) for the head unit system alone.

for the speakers, what do you suggest. i'm not into loud music. i just want crisp and clear sound. can pioneer 3way and 4way (like the TS-A series speakers) deliver? is there a need for amp for 2 pairs of speaker? how much will be the budget for this? btw, what brand (speaker) do you recommend?

if replacing the stock hu with 1 din, hindi ba pangit dahil mag kakaroon ng butas?

[jhnkvn]

for the speakers, what do you suggest. i'm not into loud music. i just want crisp and clear sound. can pioneer 3way and 4way (like the TS-A series speakers) deliver? is there a need for amp for 2 pairs of speaker? how much will be the budget for this? btw, what brand (speaker) do you recommend?

if replacing the stock hu with 1 din, hindi ba pangit dahil mag kakaroon ng butas?

Choose whichever speaker that's within budget. This might not seem to help a lot but most entry-level components are hard to differentiate in terms of sound. So just choose whichever fits your budget. You may also back-read the thread for my suggestions.

I would also suggest you get a separate component system rather than a coaxial. Advantages of this is that you can position the tweeter (just use 3M double tape if you don't have a stock tweet location) near the dashboard.. effectively elevating the soundstage nearer the ear-level. This way, rather than hearing the sound coming from your feet at least it's closer to your ears na.

For most people, simply replacing the stock speakers to aftermarket speakers is a huge difference and most would stop there. You do not need an amplifier but it's optional to do so (and would be the next recommended next step).

As for the head unit, yep.. magkakaroon ka ng butas niyan. However, it really depends on you whether its ugly or not. Some might find it practical as the additional "hole" can serve their needs (ex. lagayan ng shades.. hehe)