Car Inverter - saan maganda bumili

[webmiester]

Hi guys,

The car shop Im having my car fixed told me I can install a 220v outlet in my car "like the new cefiro". I just need to buy a car inverter then they'l wire it nicely. He told me marami daw sa Raon.

Where else pa ba magandang bumili nito na mura?

[BoEinG_747]

shopwise,makro at sa Ace or handyman naka kita ako ..

pero wala idea price depende din sa spec nia kasi ito

[boybi]

Meron sa mga ACE, Robinson's Handyman and DIY stores. They cost mga 3K up, depending on the wattage, usually mga 100+W upto 400W.

Meron din akong nakitang inverter na plug lang sa cigarette plug, ok kaya ito? Info-something yung brand and nasa 100+ watts sya for 3K+. I'm really tempted to buy this para hindi na ako bibili ng mga car chargers for my different gadgets.

[BlueBimmer]

yup ok mga yan, ung plug lang sa cigarette lighter, itsura nila parang mini amps hehe

[boybi]

yup ok mga yan, ung plug lang sa cigarette lighter, itsura nila parang mini amps hehe

BB, how about yung plug lang sa cigarette lighter na parang battery tester ang itsura? Hindi yung parang mini-amp.

[BlueBimmer]

BB, how about yung plug lang sa cigarette lighter na parang battery tester ang itsura? Hindi yung parang mini-amp.

yung plastic lang ang casing nya? ok rin yun, meron din kme ganyan unit, white ang casing with green stickers ata, dami na rin bumili at wala namang problema, walang bumalik

[boybi]

Parang ganito sya:



Yan ang gusto ko para mas handy and wala ng wires.

[arnielbenz]

Mga sir here is mine kabibili ko lang kanina, I hope na okay eto. Para sa laptop (65W) and cellphone.

150W
Versatile socket
Soft start function
Product protection (short circuit, low voltage and overload)

[lgp]

Mga Sirs, probably the biggest reason why your inverters get busted is that you are assuming your load is small.

I am an EE and I have read earlier posts regarding calculating the load from the output. We have been trained to follow the 'best practice' approach in estimating loads in order to design good overcurrent protection as well as a safe operating environment.

When estimating loads, the input power should be the one taken into consideration as the input power always exceeds the output power, never the other way around. If the product states 220V 1.0 A, then it is assumed that the product draws a max current of 1Amp therefore it peaks at 220W.

If, on the other hand, the product is free voltage (which is common nowadays as you see more and more "100-240V" specs) it is assumed that the max current is drawn at the lower voltage (it is a fact that for power to be equal across the voltage range, the current drawn is greater at the lower voltage then at a higher voltage, which is why we transmit electricity at thousands of volts in order to utilize smaller wires carrying smaller currents)

Therefore, the common practice is to multiply the rated max current by the lower end of the voltage range, to give the wattage. Now, in these days where a lot of china made products with no quality control abound (I'm not saying everything made in china has no QC, just that there are a lot), it is safer to assume that the specs rated are more or less approximations, therefore, the safe way to assume the power draw would be to just multiply the current by the higher voltage in the range, thereby making sure that the power source you will be using won't be overloaded.

Oh, and another thing, someone mentioned the ref to be around 100W, while this may be true when the ref is at idle (depending on the construction) it may have slipped the poster's mind that a motor's starting current can surge to 250% of its rated power input. In addition to that, I don't think there are ref motors rated less than 1/4HP, and 1HP = 746W so 100W is way too low. Just an added info.

I hope this helps make it clear regarding power draw.

[traker]

I bought a 300W Panther inverter. I had it tested and was working when i bought it. However, when I plug it in to my car's 12v power socket (with a 120 watt max output) it won't power up fully I guess, as its fan is spinning but the power on indicator won't light up.

Anyone can help? Thanks in advance.

[woohoo]

When estimating loads, the input power should be the one taken into consideration as the input power always exceeds the output power, never the other way around. If the product states 220V 1.0 A, then it is assumed that the product draws a max current of 1Amp therefore it peaks at 220W.

If, on the other hand, the product is free voltage (which is common nowadays as you see more and more "100-240V" specs) it is assumed that the max current is drawn at the lower voltage.

Therefore, the common practice is to multiply the rated max current by the lower end of the voltage range, to give the wattage.

Thank you for this info. Now I understand my LG LCD TV's 1.5A rating. It's the only brand among the most common ones which specifies Amperes instead of Watts, and it gave me some apprehension when I calculated 220V * 1.5A = 330W :shocked2:. Little did I know that since it's autovolt (100-240V), I should've gotten 100V * 1.5A = 150W.

Oh, and another thing, someone mentioned the ref to be around 100W, while this may be true when the ref is at idle (depending on the construction) it may have slipped the poster's mind that a motor's starting current can surge to 250% of its rated power input. In addition to that, I don't think there are ref motors rated less than 1/4HP, and 1HP = 746W so 100W is way too low. Just an added info.

I hope this helps make it clear regarding power draw.

Perhaps the Wattage ratings on refs reflect their AVERAGE consumption. My side-by-side Samsung ref (19cu.ft.) states its consumption as 150W only. That's below the minimum figure you mentioned (746W / 4 = 186.5W = 1/4 HP).

[lgp]

Glad to have cleared some things.

Perhaps the Wattage ratings on refs reflect their AVERAGE consumption. My side-by-side Samsung ref (19cu.ft.) states its consumption as 150W only. That's below the minimum figure you mentioned (746W / 4 = 186.5W = 1/4 HP).

Oh yes, that's right -it's the average consumption that is rated on some appliances. It's like the audio industry's RMS vs PMPO thing, sometimes marketing tells manufacturing to place what looks better on the product in order to 'entice' buyers. In the case of some appliances, the average is placed so as not to turn conservative buyers off if they see a high max consumption.

I forgot to mention that the equations given are not for exact consumption, but for circuit protection and safety requirements, that is, if you assume the 186.5W load, then a load of 150W can be safely carried. Then again, you'll have to account for the 250% surge everytime the motor starts, that is on top of the 186.5W continuous load.

[woohoo]

Glad to have cleared some things.



Oh yes, that's right -it's the average consumption that is rated on some appliances. It's like the audio industry's RMS vs PMPO thing, sometimes marketing tells manufacturing to place what looks better on the product in order to 'entice' buyers. In the case of some appliances, the average is placed so as not to turn conservative buyers off if they see a high max consumption.

I forgot to mention that the equations given are not for exact consumption, but for circuit protection and safety requirements, that is, if you assume the 186.5W load, then a load of 150W can be safely carried. Then again, you'll have to account for the 250% surge everytime the motor starts, that is on top of the 186.5W continuous load.

Yup. Most end-users consider only the bottom line, after all, i.e., how much will they pay for the electricity. :D