ported vs sealed which do you preffer?

[sprint]

maraming salamat mga sir,

[gonzo]

Ang rule naman kasi ay iwasan ang box na perfect cube.

Sir whats the explanation behind this? Even correct ung volume ng box?

[gonzo]

Bandpass is considered ported? I prefer this one kasi nasa loob sya ng enclosure and protected kung may karga ka sa trunk.

[busy road]

mga bossing, magtatanong lang po kung anong tamang wire size ang dapat gamitin sa power cord ng amp tsaka yung wire na ikakabit sa subs.
SPL Z2X-1200 yung amp ko.. 600W RMS bridged..
audiobahn 12" na 500W RMS yung sub.. isa lang po yung sub..

gauge 8 po power cord ko na gamit tsaka 12 yata yung sa sub, d ko po sure... baka po kase undersize yung gamit ko, sayang naman kung d nya mamaximize yung power ng amp..
thanks po in advance.

Basically, we determine the size of wire to avoid voltage drop from amps to speaker. The basis of information is the maximum power (not RMS).
Assuming you have 750W & 2 ohms:
I = (P/Z)^1/2 = (750/2)^1/2 = 19.36 amperes, which is equivalent to #12 wire. For safety reason, you move to next higher size, say #10. So, this is the minimum size required for your speaker. If you have #8, you are more safe.

[busy road]

Sir whats the explanation behind this? Even correct ung volume ng box?

Sa sounds travel pag equal ang distance they meet in one point and cancell each other. So, ang effective power ng enclosure ay mababawasan.

[gonzo]

Regarding sub boxes, if two boxes same volume one is installed that the sub cone is facing inside enclusure (inverted) and ung isa is installed that the cone is facing outside will they give the same sound charactirestics?

Because Im considering that I will invert the sub kasi kung facing outside may chance na madamage ng kargo ko sa trunk ung subs ko..

or any suggestions?? TIA

[busy road]

Regarding sub boxes, if two boxes same volume one is installed that the sub cone is facing inside enclusure (inverted) and ung isa is installed that the cone is facing outside will they give the same sound charactirestics?

Because Im considering that I will invert the sub kasi kung facing outside may chance na madamage ng kargo ko sa trunk ung subs ko..

or any suggestions?? TIA

NO, don't do that. If you are using two sub speakers, the sound movement will be opposite to each other. The effective bass reproduction will be less. Mirror image rule should be applied. Otherwise, stick to your bandpass enclosure. For that reason, only port is exposed and nothing will be damaged.
OK, as a compromise solution you can reverse one speaker, provided you also reverse the polarity coming from the amplifier. This is somewhat weird, but it will work.

[gonzo]

Sorry Busy road if I messed up with my post, I will re phrase, I have only one sub 1x12 Hifonics I chose either I will invert it or not. But a band pass is the best solution.
Followup question. which will use more trunk space a band pass box or sealed box? Iwant clarity with boom. TIA

[busy road]

Sorry Busy road if I messed up with my post, I will re phrase, I have only one sub 1x12 Hifonics I chose either I will invert it or not. But a band pass is the best solution.
Followup question. which will use more trunk space a band pass box or sealed box? Iwant clarity with boom. TIA

Bandpass volume requirement is almost doubled the sealed type. You are actually using both (sealed & ported). If you are limited with the volume availability of your car, then I suggest you use sealed type enclosure. Select speaker with minimum volume requirement when installed in sealed or closed box. I think Hifonics speakers require big enclosure volume to achieve the required resonance frequency. So far, Hifonics is not included in my compilation. If you can give me the specs of your speaker (i.e. Fs, Vas & Qt), then we can determine the volume enclosure of your speaker.

[gonzo]

Bandpass volume requirement is almost doubled the sealed type. You are actually using both (sealed & ported). If you are limited with the volume availability of your car, then I suggest you use sealed type enclosure. Select speaker with minimum volume requirement when installed in sealed or closed box. I think Hifonics speakers require big enclosure volume to achieve the required resonance frequency. So far, Hifonics is not included in my compilation. If you can give me the specs of your speaker (i.e. Fs, Vas & Qt), then we can determine the volume enclosure of your speaker.

Fs 37.32hz
Qts 0.38
Vas 21.5 liters
Xmax 22mm

This is a square sub. TIA

[busy road]

Fs 37.32hz
Qts 0.38
Vas 21.5 liters
Xmax 22mm

This is a square sub. TIA

Based on the above parameters, these are the possible volumes:
Closed or Sealed Type Enclosure:
Optimum Design
1. Vb=533 cu.in , box resonance frequency=34.71 Hz
at this volume, I don't think you can install your 12" speaker.
2. You can increase the internal volume to accomodate the size of the speaker, provided you have to put some stuff (wooden blocks) to get a net volume of 533 cu.in.
Note: 533 cu.in. is the net available volume space inside you enclosure.
Assuming you have a gross internal volume of 1728 cu.in., from this figure minus speaker volume, some stuff, and other related materials should be equal to 533 cu.in.

[v6dreamer]

Here is my contribution for those who want to put Amps & sub in thier car.

ARE YOU WILLING TO MODIFY YOUR CAR?

Are 15-inch subs going to fit in a small trunk? Probably not. Can you still put a great system in a small trunk? Sure!
Carefully examine your car and physically measure how much room you have in the areas in which you want to install electronics components and speakers.
Try to envision what kind of work is going to be required to put the pieces where you want them. Don't bite off more than you can chew. Think about how long it will take. You may have to forgo driving the car untill your done.

CAN YOUR VEHICLE HANDLE THE DEMANDS OF MULTI-AMP SYSTEM?

Your vehicle's electrical system is designed to do one thing very well: Supply the car's diff. components- headlights, air conditioner, etc.- with the needed current and voltage to operate properly. Luckily, some manufacturers design their cars electrical system with a reserve capacity that is well-suited to supplying power for a sound system.
Most alternators are capable of producing 55-65 amps. This is adequate for sound system packing up to 350 watts RMS.
Most German automobiles have charging system rated up to about 90 amps. This will sufficient for systems up to 500 watts. Some HONDA and TOYOTA, on the other hand, have alternators only rated for 35 amps. This will only support about 125 watts in amplifier power.
If you want more power than your alternator can service, you will have to look at having your alternator rebuilt fo high-output. Or you can buy in a high-output aftermarket alternator.
Installing a second battery wont help. The only reason to do that is to play your stereo for long periods with the engine off. On the other hand, you could be asking for trouble if you keep the volume cranked up. If your system needs more current than the alternator can supply, it can grab current from the battery- up to a point.

ESTIMATE YOUR CURRENT DEMANDS

First, add up the fuse ratings of all your amplifiers. Now figure your amflifiers total steady-state average output(divide total RMS wattage by total peak wattage). Then multifly your fuse rating total by your amps total steady-state average output. This gives you a rough estimate of how much current your sound system is going to require.

HOW TO ESTIMATE YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS RESERVE CURRENT CAPACITY.

Take your alternators amp rating and multifly it by 40 percent. This rough figure will give you a baseline for about how much reserve capacity your cars electrical system has.
For example: your alternator is rated for 90 amps.
90 amps x 40 percent= 36 amps left to power your sound system. If this figure is higher than your estimated steady-state current draw, your in good shape.

TO BE CONTINUED......

[funkngruvn]

sealed box for clean bass sound; compact install.

ported for boom boom sound from far away; bulky.

my choice: ported

[batang_raon14]

Guys, up ko na lang 'to kaysa magpost uli ng bago.

Am currently using an ABC box. Swabe ang bayo, kaya lang the weight is really killing me. Plus, my reserve tire is located sa bandang dulo ng trunk, kaya to get the tire, kelangan talagang may isa pang tao para magangat ng sub habang tinatanggal ung trunk matting at gulong (which isn't a joke to do). From an average of 30 mins. when changing tires, umabot ako kanina ng 1 and a half hour dahil lang sa hirap ng pagtanggal at pagbalik ng gulong.

Ayoko mawala ung bayo, pero ayoko rin na laging mahirap magpalit ng gulong. Pag magpalit ako to sealed, gaano kaliit at kagaan? At gaano kalaking difference din pagdating sa bayo? Saka posible na ba tong iposition anywhere in the trunk as opposed to the abc na meron ako ngayon?

Nakakapanghinayang kasi ung 2500 petot spent on the box plus pa ung magandang bayo nya, kaya medyo hesitant ako to change it. Pero kung di naman ganun kalaki, oks lang. Btw, SQ nga pala setup ko.

eto nga pala system ko:
Targa seps
V12
Aura 12" subs

and practically un na un.

[washburn]

sir di ko alam kung OT tayo ha
anyway sagutin ko narin question mo since nagkaroon ako both ABC and sealed,
Sir malaki mawawala sa bayo pag nagpalit ka ng sealed pero SQ ka naman maririnig mo ang big difference,
sealed box mas lilinis ang bayo and sumasabay siya sa kanta di tulad ng ABC medyo nahuhulu siya
sir di ko alam nung size ng sealed pero madali siyang tangalin pero dipende sa setup yan (yung mga wirings)
sa position naman sir magandang nakatapat ang sub sayo bale pagopen mo trunk nakatalikod ang box
sir mura lang naman ang sealed box at pede I-DIY kung decided ka na talga magchange box benta mo nalang yang ABC box at bilihan mo ng sealed

nga pala ABC gamit kong box ngyon, same din tayo ng prob
HTH

[co_nixz]

[SIZE=2]Hahahaha nice v6dreamer

kaya ako tamang kaya lang ng Electrical system ng otto ko...

600W * 432channel na Amp nka bridge dalawang 10" X-100 na sub tpos pioneer all the way from headunit, seps, & tweeters...

sarap ng soundtrip wlang iniisip na madidiskargahan batterya ko... i didnt even put a 1farad capacitor ksi kaya ng system ;)

and sna may idea ka sa tunog na max out nya kayang iluwang tunog ng 10" ^_^ (Ported Box)

pwede din naman clean bass sa ported depende nlang sa timpla * funkngruvn
[/SIZE]

[co_nixz]

Usapang Engineering Design na ito ECE magsilabas kayu CIVIL Engrng' ako e malayu...

Sna may magaral Electronics & Communications Engineer Master in Sub Box Design hahaha im just trippin!

[gonzo]

Another question bout sub boxes.. ano ang purpose ng fiber fill sa loob ng sub box? sa ported lang ba to nilalagay o pati sealed pwede rin? at kanu karami ilagay isang lagay? TIA

[busy road]

Another question bout sub boxes.. ano ang purpose ng fiber fill sa loob ng sub box? sa ported lang ba to nilalagay o pati sealed pwede rin? at kanu karami ilagay isang lagay? TIA

To prevent echo effect inside the enclosure which is the caused of unwanted peaks. Yes, it is being used for both sealed & ported. Usually mga 1" thickness for all sides.

[v6dreamer]

[SIZE=2]Hahahaha nice v6dreamer [/SIZE]

[SIZE=2]kaya ako tamang kaya lang ng Electrical system ng otto ko...[/SIZE]

[SIZE=2]600W * 432channel na Amp nka bridge dalawang 10" X-100 na sub tpos pioneer all the way from headunit, seps, & tweeters...[/SIZE]

[SIZE=2]sarap ng soundtrip wlang iniisip na madidiskargahan batterya ko... i didnt even put a 1farad capacitor ksi kaya ng system ;)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=2]and sna may idea ka sa tunog na max out nya kayang iluwang tunog ng 10" ^_^ (Ported Box)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=2]pwede din naman clean bass sa ported depende nlang sa timpla * funkngruvn[/SIZE]

Yes there is! Like you said capacitor. One sure sign the stereo is demanding too much from your car electrical system: The subs flutter every time hits a strong beat.
The best and most affordable remedy for this is to install a big capacitor on the power lead of your subwoofer amplifier. The power line capacitor stores current for instant release when short burst of energy are needed to produce loud, deep bass notes. The capacitor actually does a better job of supplying short bursts of current than your alternator can. Thats because the capacitor is installed right next to the amp.
The current doesnt have to overcome the internal resistance of the alternator and the battery or travel 20 feet of wire to get to your amp. Its right there when you need it. Try, you will notice the diff. Good luck!