component speakers.

**jncp9886** · March 3rd, 2014 04:09 PM

Originally Posted by 12vdc

Usually ang amp na 4ohms output impedance kaya i-drive ang 8 ohms speakers pero don't expect full power. Umiinit ang ampli sa standing waves kung lower speaker impedance ang nilagay mo say 4ohms ampli connected to 2 ohms speakers.

If you wanna be safe since dalawa naman ang speakersi, i-parallel mo nalang to get the 4 ohms requirement ng amplifier.. OR.. use matching transformer to adjust the impedance.. Pero right now ang pinaka safe para ma-test mo ay i parallel yung speakers then connect to 1 channel out ng HU.

i try ko muna yan suggestion mo. tapos if ok ung speakers, ano pwede gawin next?

**12vdc** · March 3rd, 2014 05:14 PM

Originally Posted by jncp9886

i try ko muna yan suggestion mo. tapos if ok ung speakers, ano pwede gawin next?

Kunin mo yung another sets ng speaker(front) from component at ikabit mo din. Kung OK ang resulta, then i-fix mo na sa ilalim ng upuan ng rear seats or near the wheel well.. Then maybe drink some beer or sortoff celebrate while listening to your new DIY boombox..

**joemarski** · March 3rd, 2014 05:23 PM

hahahaha! siguradong talsik ang tulele mo pag nilagay mo sa full volume. :thumbup:

**jodski** · March 3rd, 2014 05:24 PM

good luck to you... doable naman na setup yan eh basta tama lang yung combination mo as stated ni 12vdc

huwag mo nga pala tatanggalin sa original housing ng speaker kasi mag iiba ang tunog and sayang

ang problem mo na lang talaga eh kung saan mo i pwesto yang mga speakers na yan sa loob ng sasakyan

**1D4LV** · March 3rd, 2014 05:39 PM

my suggestion:

sell the component system.....

get a powered sub.....

mas madali.... mas less risky....

another suggestion:

a) install a converter sa sasakyan.
b) gamitin mo na yung buong component dun...

nanghihinayang lang ako dun sa compo and dun sa speaker.... baka masira.

**dbbanas** · March 3rd, 2014 05:55 PM

Nagawa ko na din during college days.. Mas malake pa nga jan. Nag direct tap ako from rear speakers papunta sa home teatre speakers ko.. Un nga lng space consuming tlga... Kaya tinanggal ko din

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**jhnkvn** · March 3rd, 2014 06:34 PM

Holy cow.. naging 3 pages yun thread. Well.. this thread is a bit unique compared to most car audio questions but it isn't the first time I've seen this.

I'll echo the same recommendation as 1D4LV: Sell the component system, buy a powered subwoofer. Since all you want is the subwoofer.

Pero pagayaw.. let's start.

Component systems aren't really complicated. They're usually just a tweeter, midrange (if it's 3-way), and a midbass enclosed in a PVC box with some having a separate subwoofer box of 8-10 inches. It's very much like your bookshelf speakers -- except it's made for mass production and designed to be affordable.

Until now, I'm not too sure if you plan on chopping the component system up (e.g. getting the speaker drivers lang) or you plan on using the entire compo system in your car. Clarify that for me ;)

If you plan to throw the entire thing in a car: how do you plan on powering it? Most component systems have a source with a built-in amplifier that drives the speakers. You then power this source by socking it in a 220V household wall socket. If this is your route, I will suggest a power inverter and though if possible try not to purchase the cheapest one you can find.

Kung balak mo lang gamitin yun subwoofer ng compo system. How does it connect to the compo system? (Aka patingin nga ng likod..) If you have no plans on chopping the sub box up, this will tell you what's inside your sub box. Sa totoo lang ito yun mahirap sa if you go for this route kasi madami tanong...

1. How is it powered? Nasa loob ba yun amplifier or nasa labas? (most subwoofers have a built-in one hence "active subwoofers" and so do most compo systems.. keyword is: most)
2. How does it receive the signals? Does it do signal filtration (crossovers) on the source itself? on the amplifier? or via a passive crossover?

Kasi ganito lang yan.. if you can't answer #1, where will the subwoofer get its power? Kung nasa loob yun amplifier, okay. Now ask yourself -- how do you power that amplifier?

If you can't answer #2, well.. this is pretty fine pero konting kawawa subwoofer mo since without filtration, it'll try to play the entire spectrum range (20hz to 20khz). Of course, it can't reach the upper frequencies since physics says it can't vibrate fast enough but it's still recommended to filter it to <150hz.

If you want to just get the subwoofer driver... Good.. easy enough. You just need to build an enclosure for it which also costs money so if you're adventurous and kuripot enough, try going for an infinite baffle (Google it) or free-air subwoofer configuration, afterwards all you need to do is attach speaker wires to it.

But wait, what about the filter? Well.. like I said with #2, okay lang naman kahit wala. Your subwoofer is just going to try to extend as high as it can naturally.

**12vdc** · March 3rd, 2014 07:05 PM

From what i understand. The speaker box is passive just like any ordinary old model component. It has 3 speakers in a box so that would definitely have a crossover/ filter built-in.. TS wants to plug it but unsure if it would work without damaging the HU's amplifier, so the first thing he should do is check the specs (impedance and power), match it with the car-stero amplifier output..

In this case, car stero says 4 channel 45 watter 4 ohms
What he have on hand and planning to install is 4 speaker box with 8 ohms input impedance and 100w max output. Probably the component comes in 4+1 configuration, the +1 is the center speaker.. So if he wants to wire it in the car, he'd normally connect 2 speaker box in parallel 8 ohms + 8 ohms = 4 ohms, so out from 4 speakers, he would make 2-sets of speakers rated at 4 ohms 200 watts each.

The result... REAR LEFT channnel consisting of 2 speaker boxes and the other side REAR RIGHT channel with 2 speaker boxes.. If he's creative enough to tuck neat the speakers under the seats, i think his plan would be a success..

**monty_GTV** · March 3rd, 2014 07:52 PM

a home audio component inside a car? unique nga. major consideration is how you will power it from AC to DC and the space it will consume...

**jhnkvn** · March 3rd, 2014 08:27 PM

Originally Posted by 12vdc

From what i understand. The speaker box is passive just like any ordinary old model component. It has 3 speakers in a box so that would definitely have a crossover/ filter built-in.. TS wants to plug it but unsure if it would work without damaging the HU's amplifier, so the first thing he should do is check the specs (impedance and power), match it with the car-stero amplifier output..

In this case, car stero says 4 channel 45 watter 4 ohms
What he have on hand and planning to install is 4 speaker box with 8 ohms input impedance and 100w max output. Probably the component comes in 4+1 configuration, the +1 is the center speaker.. So if he wants to wire it in the car, he'd normally connect 2 speaker box in parallel 8 ohms + 8 ohms = 4 ohms, so out from 4 speakers, he would make 2-sets of speakers rated at 4 ohms 200 watts each.

The result... REAR LEFT channnel consisting of 2 speaker boxes and the other side REAR RIGHT channel with 2 speaker boxes.. If he's creative enough to tuck neat the speakers under the seats, i think his plan would be a success..

Most car audio head units have a 50Wx4 MOSFET built-in amplifier. It's mostly 23W RMS * 4ohms under 1% distortion. Get anything more and your distortion plot will rise dramatically until it's around 20% at 50W. Another thing people should know is that head units are actually 8 channels that are bridged in order to get 23W on all four channels at 4 ohms. This is the reason why you can't bridge the outputs to get something like 2x50W RMS.

But that's simply a tidbit on my part

totally unrelated dito haha..

Well, if it's the entire speaker box as you outlined above..

Pwede. No problems there. Parallel connection of 2 speaker compo systems on each channel.

Problem here is that speaker compo systems aren't really subwoofers. They're just tweeter + (midrange) + midbass in a plastic ported enclosure. When it comes down to it, they won't hit 30hz and that's considering a natural no-crossover slope. A single 10" subwoofer will be more efficient than all 4 6" midbass drivers in reproducing bassy sounds.

Also, I'm not too sure in wanting to have component systems under your seats. Thanks to the higher frequencies, your ears will automatically locate in your head that your music will be coming under your seat -- in other words, you'll hear music playing below your ass.

If you want the bass of the midbass drivers in DIY setup. You can always yank them out, try to get a crossover that covers dunno... 63/80hz to 300hz, fabricate a slim-type enclosure for use under your seat.. and voila.. DIY under-your-seat midwoofers. Still, for the cost.. a powered subwoofer might be a more ideal setup.

Still, kung gusto mo talaga ng bass, there's nothing more ideal than getting a 12" GT5-12 subwoofer (3,000), a ported enclosure (cost depends on installer), some wires, and wire it to an affordable V12 amplifier when you're talking about costs. You can also use 12" Targa drivers to further reduce cost if you'd like.

Since ilalagay naman niya sa likod ng Revo.. I'll probably get the entire compo set, throw it at the back, get a power inverter.. ayun na yun.. DIY loud and clear vehicle. This is probably the easiest solution if you want a compo set inside a car.