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  1. Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    171
    #21
    Nagamit ko na yung Mothers step 1 kanina

    Pros:
    Madali ibuff/tangalin
    mabango
    hindi abrasive(wala akong nakitang color ng paint dun sa applicator pad)
    kita mo na nagimprove yung color
    naging madulas yung paint

    Cons:
    Oxidation, hindi nya masyado natangal pati stains. Nag-lighten yung white part na may oxidation but visible parin. Nagapply ako ng twice but ganun parin


    Nakakapagod gawin yung wash-clean-glaze-wax-QD madali mag apply mahirap magtangal ng excess medyo nilagnat pa nga ako eh. Manual buff nga lang pala ginawa ko.

  2. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #22
    *Mau: Aww... i hope you get well soon and i hope this doesn't deter you from detailing, its also sad to hear that step 1 has not removed the white stain, i guess your next step would be a mild abrasive polish if not bring it over to big berts, it is really tiring to apply and buff it off especially if you want to do it the right way (working the product) and if the product dries up before you buff off. If you're having a hard time buffing the products off, try to do it by applying it by panel and wait for it to dry a little not totally dry and then buff it off before you proceed to the next panel, this way you get rests in between. You could also select 2 panels to do first, so lets say you choose the driver side doors, apply and work it in door 1 and 2 then buff off door 1 and 2 and then rest before you proceed to the next 2 panels. Resting is also good since it gives your muscles enough time to rest, when i first started detailing i tried to apply a polish starting with the hood clockwise, by the time i got back to the hood i noticed a very slight difference in the paints color and quality, it seems that by the time i was on the last panel, my hands were no longer that strong to apply the same pressure as i did on the hood, i was using step 1 then on a fireball red paint and i sure did notice the difference.

  3. Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    4,642
    #23
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    *Mau: Aww... i hope you get well soon and i hope this doesn't deter you from detailing, its also sad to hear that step 1 has not removed the white stain, i guess your next step would be a mild abrasive polish if not bring it over to big berts, it is really tiring to apply and buff it off especially if you want to do it the right way (working the product) and if the product dries up before you buff off. If you're having a hard time buffing the products off, try to do it by applying it by panel and wait for it to dry a little not totally dry and then buff it off before you proceed to the next panel, this way you get rests in between. You could also select 2 panels to do first, so lets say you choose the driver side doors, apply and work it in door 1 and 2 then buff off door 1 and 2 and then rest before you proceed to the next 2 panels. Resting is also good since it gives your muscles enough time to rest, when i first started detailing i tried to apply a polish starting with the hood clockwise, by the time i got back to the hood i noticed a very slight difference in the paints color and quality, it seems that by the time i was on the last panel, my hands were no longer that strong to apply the same pressure as i did on the hood, i was using step 1 then on a fireball red paint and i sure did notice the difference.
    Okay, unfortunately I wasn't able to detail now since my dad brought the car with him to go to work..sira daw kasi LRT..

    Anyway, ma'am pwede rin po/advisable po ba or much better po ba kung if I apply it to 2 panels at a time tapos ibbuff off AGAD right after applying? gaya po nung example nyo na highlighted above... I'm referring to the 3 steps po not just step 1.. And the correct application of all the 3 steps (pre-wax, S&G, carnauba) is round overlapping motion right?

  4. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #24
    *Chickselog: Haha yeah darn that LRT, been bugging down for 3 days already, and i end up having to drop little sister off to school.

    As for your question it would be okay as long as you work the products properly, working them properly takes quite some work and time but just enough time to let the products bond to the paint. But if you want to be sure if you can buff it off already, try to do the finger swipe test, just swipe your finger across the paint and if you see clear paint then its ready to be buffed off, also don't wait for the product to fully dry. Usually the 2 panel method gives just about the right time to buff off all 3 steps, just don't apply it too quickly or too slowly hehe.

    As for my style in applying it all boils down to my mood and the car im working with, but i would recommend applying and buffing it off in the direction where the wind would pass through the car, meaning in a linear motion either from left to right then slowly moving up or down, that or up to down slowly moving left or right. This is because if on the very very small chance you do induce scratches, it won't be in the form of swirls. Linear Scratches would only be visible on certain angles unlike swirls that are visible on any angle due to its circular pattern

    Hope this helps

  5. Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    4,642
    #25
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    *Chickselog: Haha yeah darn that LRT, been bugging down for 3 days already, and i end up having to drop little sister off to school.

    As for your question it would be okay as long as you work the products properly, working them properly takes quite some work and time but just enough time to let the products bond to the paint. But if you want to be sure if you can buff it off already, try to do the finger swipe test, just swipe your finger across the paint and if you see clear paint then its ready to be buffed off, also don't wait for the product to fully dry. Usually the 2 panel method gives just about the right time to buff off all 3 steps, just don't apply it too quickly or too slowly hehe.

    As for my style in applying it all boils down to my mood and the car im working with, but i would recommend applying and buffing it off in the direction where the wind would pass through the car, meaning in a linear motion either from left to right then slowly moving up or down, that or up to down slowly moving from left to right. This is because if on the very very small chance you do induce scratches, it won't be in the form of swirls. Linear Scratches would only be visible on certain angles unlike swirls that are visible on any angle due to its circular pattern

    Hope this helps
    Ahh i see..paano po yung finger swipe test? medyo di ko po na-gets.. pag yung wax eh kumbaga yung tuyo na pero "tama lang" na pagkatuyo and not too much dry? hmm, i'm gonna try that wind thingy method of application..But in some cases, is the round overlapping motion still applicable/advisable?

    BTW in our civic EK blue-green (like the blue-green crayola) color, medyo may part na faded yung paint sa hood, maybe I can apply step 1 to it and hope it improves

  6. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #26
    *Chickselog: The finger swipe test is when you swipe your finger across and you see a clear layer of paint after, its when the product is dry enough to be removed easily even with just one or two passes of your MF with moderate pressure and it doesn't scatter or spread the product anymore leaving behind a glossy and clear finish, at the same time its also not that dry to the point that the product starts to powder and buffing it off becomes harder since the product sort of like sticked already to the paint, its also not dry enough that when you wipe the product off you see clumps of the dried product stuck together, when this happens you've allowed the products to dry for too long already, dried waxes and polishes that have clumped together can also induce scratches and marring in really bad dried out cases.

    As for the part using step 1, what i would recommend you do is apply a thin layer and work it and buff it off every 2 panels if thats what you prefer to be lighter on the work load, once the whole car is done, take a step back and check those parts where you're not that happy and needs to get re-applied with step 1 and re-apply to those parts again.

    Applying wax in an overlapping circular motion is really REALLY good in terms of ensuring an even and complete coverage, its also good for working the product and even better in terms of spreading the wax further, but in some cases, people fail to notice if something gets in their applicator pad and starts to scratch the finish, if this happens even a small grain of sand or a metal filing would cause catastrophic swirls.

  7. Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    171
    #27
    Yup mukang big berts na talaga ang pagaasa ko. Baka kasi kailangan na din ng electric buffer baka di na kaya ng manual. Baka kasi masama din sa paint kung gagamitin ko nanaman ang step 1. Magkano kaya magiging damage ko if dadalin ko sa bigberts? For the whole car na kaya un or per panel pa? Pero baka ihuli ko na kasi may mga naka-lineup pa na project ko para sa car.

    Iniisip ko kung gagamit pa ako ng polishing compound...

    OT:
    Thanks madkatz! Pansin ko lang sa other thread, maam ka pala medyo malakas ka para sa babae ha for detailing and you know many things about it. Feeling ko parang si theeved ka na. Thanks for the help.

  8. Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    4,642
    #28
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    *Chickselog: The finger swipe test is when you swipe your finger across and you see a clear layer of paint after, its when the product is dry enough to be removed easily even with just one or two passes of your MF with moderate pressure and it doesn't scatter or spread the product anymore leaving behind a glossy and clear finish, at the same time its also not that dry to the point that the product starts to powder and buffing it off becomes harder since the product sort of like sticked already to the paint, its also not dry enough that when you wipe the product off you see clumps of the dried product stuck together, when this happens you've allowed the products to dry for too long already, dried waxes and polishes that have clumped together can also induce scratches and marring in really bad dried out cases.

    As for the part using step 1, what i would recommend you do is apply a thin layer and work it and buff it off every 2 panels if thats what you prefer to be lighter on the work load, once the whole car is done, take a step back and check those parts where you're not that happy and needs to get re-applied with step 1 and re-apply to those parts again.

    Applying wax in an overlapping circular motion is really REALLY good in terms of ensuring an even and complete coverage, its also good for working the product and even better in terms of spreading the wax further, but in some cases, people fail to notice if something gets in their applicator pad and starts to scratch the finish, if this happens even a small grain of sand or a metal filing would cause catastrophic swirls.
    So I should check my applicator once in a while? If something sticks to it maybe I should turn the applicator over.. I'm planning to use 2 applicators for the 3 steps..1 applicator for the step 1 and back to back na lang sa step 2 and 3..isa lang kasi nabili kong Zwipes (2applicators and 1 MF) eh..

  9. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #29
    *mau: i don't know about how much it would cost but i think bigberts accepts detailing per panel also, just try their number at 7427400 thats the araneta branch, if you happen to drop by there ask sir paul about detailing he's usually in a cheerful mood to teach a thing or two about detailing, i learned a lot from him also. if the other parts of the car is not damaged then you could just opt for the per panel service. that would surely help you save money especially if you already have detailing materials on hand.

    As for polishing compounds, its actually a bit tricky and i can't help you that much there, i myself have just started to practice buffing using a rotary about 3 weeks ago and believe me the vast number of polishes that does specific jobs are just too many, right now im actually saving to buy some more polishes and see which ones work for me best, but one thing im sure is that if your car is you darling baby, then just have the professionals do it, don't DIY especially if you have a moderate to a very abrasive polish, I've leveled quite some clear coats already using a BnD rotary and with certain polishes, it really cuts real fast.

    Hehe yeah, most people mistake me for a guy, but its nothing new, i actually know more than my BF now hahaha, my first step learning about detailing actually just started about me getting very mad about shell retiro inducing lots of swirls on my brand new car, since then its been a joyride ever since, and o yeah im nowhere near theveeds experience and knowledge, until now i still try to ask him questions about detailing, there's actually a whole lot more i have to learn, specifically about handling a rotary, and i myself still can't say that my results are good enough to be compared to professionals, i mean have you seen theveeds red corolla? i saw that picture a few months back, it was a plain looking corolla but damn the detailing done there was off the roof, even foreigners that use complicated machines and products were very much impressed! thats where i could say, all i have for him is respect!

  10. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #30
    *Chickselog: Just check your applicator every time you apply the product, this way you can check if there's something stuck in the applicator pad every once in a while. Having good lighting also helps ensure you can see properly what parts are already applied and buffed. using 1 applicator pad for steps 1 and 2 back to back would be alright, i just think it would make the applicator mad a bit slippery, but properly holding and grip would be enough, im actually plannin on heading over to ace again and get me 1 more dying towel and one more set of MF pad and towel hahaha just to stock some up, their Mf covered applicator pads are actually quite sturdy, just check for those that don't have runs on the seams on the sides, i has one MF applicator pad that had a run too bad i didn't notice it until i got home. Good luck again on your up coming detailing session and don't forget to post pics!!

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Paint oxidation how to remove?