Paint oxidation how to remove?

[Jon Albano]

madkatz: again thanks for the advice, i was beginning to wonder what to do with the mom's cleaner that i have, now it has a proper place hahaha. i will be ordering probably first week of december, i already emailed the guy from ebay regarding discounts on combined shipping if i get on set and you get two. hopefully we squezze some more perks from this guy. he has a 100% feedback on ebay so i dont think there's anything to worry about. will keep you posted when he responds. at least now i know all the products in the trio being offered by the guy in ebay are useful. thanks again.

will tackle a difficult project over the weekend, i plan on detailing a pajero, sportrac and spacegear (all big vehicles mind you). i hope i dont go to the emergency room after doing all three hahahaha.

[madkatz]

*chickselog: hmmm.. Can i give a suggestion? Could you try to take a mental note or take a picture of your paint as the weeks progress? I just want to see if the swirls are the same swirls or if they are new swirls. As for an additional step, the next step probably would already involve polishing since step 2 have been ineffective in hiding and filling the swirls. For this step the chemicals i would suggest would be a bit harder to find. I would recommend you use Megs #9 swirl remover and Swirl X. Megs #9 has worked better for be but i had mine shipped from the US. Swirl X can be sometimes found on Blade and TV. Both can be hand applied, #9 being harder to apply and remove but delivering a better performance, and Swirl X being easier to apply but has to be worked longer to take effect. These are my suggestions for hand application. My other suggestion would be to get a DA or a ROP polisher and use some polishes to remove the swirls but this would mean needing a bigger detailing budget. If you have enough budget for a ROP, even if its the BnD kp600 let me know this is where we have more options to play with.

As for the car wash, BB does a nice job of cleaning the wheel wells, but i don't think they do under chassis washes. Most people go to gas stations for that but i have a bad experience with them so personally i don't recommend it. And aside from that i don't know any other place that washes the under chassis of the cars.

[madkatz]

*Jon Albano: Yup all 3 are great products. What you could do is use 915 on your most cherished cars, 476 on the daily drives or those parked without roofs, and 845 for monthly or 2x monthly or inbetween 915 and 476 applications. 845 can also be used monthly to boost over 915 and 476 so that you don't end up using 915 and 476 that often. I look forward to the delivery/purchase. As for detailing 3 big SUV's my tip would be to get someone to help you, be prepared get cold drinks, take the necessary rest/break inbetween so you don't tire your self and don't over do it so you don't get sore muscles, this way you end up doing more work. You might also need more MF towels so be sure to have some on stock or if not, have the maid wash the MF as soon as you're done using one. Good luck on your long weekend detail and don't forget to post pictures alright?!?

[Jon Albano]

*madkatz: received a very quick rely from the seller on ebay, prices are fixed, so its USD$45 for the three items and USD$10.49 for shipping. pm me if you are really interested, will be ordering 1st week of december. thanks

[Jon Albano]

*madkatz: will do, i plan to take pictures before and after the detailing job. hopefully i can do all three. hahahaha. again thanks for the input.

[Chikselog]

*chickselog: hmmm.. Can i give a suggestion? Could you try to take a mental note or take a picture of your paint as the weeks progress? I just want to see if the swirls are the same swirls or if they are new swirls. As for an additional step, the next step probably would already involve polishing since step 2 have been ineffective in hiding and filling the swirls. For this step the chemicals i would suggest would be a bit harder to find. I would recommend you use Megs #9 swirl remover and Swirl X. Megs #9 has worked better for be but i had mine shipped from the US. Swirl X can be sometimes found on Blade and TV. Both can be hand applied, #9 being harder to apply and remove but delivering a better performance, and Swirl X being easier to apply but has to be worked longer to take effect. These are my suggestions for hand application. My other suggestion would be to get a DA or a ROP polisher and use some polishes to remove the swirls but this would mean needing a bigger detailing budget. If you have enough budget for a ROP, even if its the BnD kp600 let me know this is where we have more options to play with.

As for the car wash, BB does a nice job of cleaning the wheel wells, but i don't think they do under chassis washes. Most people go to gas stations for that but i have a bad experience with them so personally i don't recommend it. And aside from that i don't know any other place that washes the under chassis of the cars.

I see..So bale kung may Swirl X na ako for example, then the steps would be Swirl X, Step2, Step3? BTW SwirlX is abrasive right? Mild lang ba? Is it that dangerous when applied?

Hmm yeah I saw the BnD KP600 sale yata sa ace sa sm san lazaro, 2.8k..Kaso wala budget hehehe..Hmm wheel wells yun yung tinatalsikan ng tubig ng gulong di po ba? Kumbaga yung pinaka sumasalo ng talsik ng tubig ang putik..I tried cleaning it using kerosene kaso hirap ako at parang nakakatamad dahil ang kapal na nung putik at makapal pa..I hope I can find detailing shops that offer underchassis washing..Dad ko nagpawash ng underchassis sa isang gas station dito samin kaso halos wala namang natanggal..yung kaliwang part lang ng suspension sa likod yung nakita kong luminis, pero may mga dumi pa rin..

[madkatz]

*Chickselog: Doing Swirl X, Step 2 and Step 3 would be the scenario.

I've actually had varying results every time i use Swirl X. Most of the time (80% of the time) i end up having a really brilliant and clean swirl free surface thats ready for Step 2 after applying Swirl X. But there would also be those times where i end up with a swirl free finish but its not that glossy, its a bit hazy. The only probably reason i can think of would be that i have not worked the polish quite properly into the paint since they use diminishing abrasives, then again i have ruled that out, since i work Swirl X on a big panel for at least 3 minutes or about 1 minute for an area as big as a Microtex Mf towel with moderate to light pressure. On those times that i end up having a dulled finish, what i do is just apply some Step 1 and the dull part is gone leaving a clean brilliant swirl free finish.

Some fanatics actually still apply Step 1 after using Swirl X, they claim that it actually adds more gloss to the paint. I've tried it a couple of times but have yet to notice any remarkable difference. Swirl X already leaves a very nice finish once worked properly. Based on the Megs site it requires 30 to 60 seconds for a 16x16 area and worked properly to delivery excellent results.

Yes, Swirl X is abrasive. As for its abrasity, i would categorize it as a mild abrasive based on my experience in using it. I said based on my experience on using it, because its abrasity would actually differ based on the following factor.

1. Application Method - Hand or Orbital?
2. Structure/Coarseness of the foam applicator pad or the applicator
3. Pressure while working the product
4. The time duration the products was worked into the surface.
5. Type of paint - Clear coat? Color Coat? Scratch Resist Clear coat?

All these are the significant factors i believe one should consider while working a product. Now don't base it on what i say, chances are i may be wrong, these are merely personal thoughts based on my limited knowledge when it comes to detailing.

When it comes to Swirl X being dangerous, as long as you properly apply the product considering the different factors, the 5 above in my case, there would be no problem when it comes to using Swirl X. It doesn't take away a lot of clear coat, and its very forgiving when it comes to working the product. If you want to play it safe, you could work the product with light pressure for about 30 seconds pero 16x16 panel and remove it to check the results. Here you can gauge whether the finish requires stronger pressure? or perhaps longer working time? You can always take the lighter and weaker method of application and re-apply the product once necessary.

One thing to note though, when using Swirl X, after you have worked the product on the selected area, remove it immediately after. Swirl X can be a pain to remove once it has dried. Also when it comes to applying Swirl X on the entire car, avoid dry buffing, this is when the product has already dried or already lacks the proper lubrication for the polish to properly work and you're still buffing it on the paint. Another thing would be to keep an old tooth brush on hand if you're using a foam applicator to be able to clean the applicator when some polish dries/hardens or if something gets stuck on the foam applicator.

[madkatz]

*Chickselog: Yup thats called tire well. What i do with my cars is use high pressure water to remove the bulk of them off, then i spray with a strong concentration of super degreaser and use a brush to remove the solid particles and then rinse with water. Most of the time i end up having a clean enough wheel well, its not brand spanking clean but its a lot cleaner. Having your cars under chassis washed on a gas station is actually ok, just as long as they don't touch the paint or side panels. I mean heck if they can't do washing properly and if they can't do waxing properly inducing swirls in the process, i really won't let them touch my paint panels. They can clean my cars underchassis but not the paint. Well im only speaking based on my bad experience with shell and caltex here in retiro and araneta. But i think if you're planning on bringing it over to the gas station and staying to check and monitor the progess i think that would be just fine.

Hope these 2 posts help you, im actually at Canyon Cove now bored to death hahaha

[jonjon_u]

With regard to the wheel wells...

I clean them with car shampoo and some brushes, then rinse.

I then spray some diluted water-based protectant on them. In my case, I use diluted Armor All (1:1 or 2:1).

Maybe it's just me, or maybe because I just clean the wheel wells regularly... but I've found that the wheel wells are much easier to clean since I started doing this method.

[madkatz]

*jon: hehe actually i've noticed that too. in my case what i use on the plastic wheel wells is Megs hyper dressing. The effect is like the dirt and mud are a lot easier to remove. But jon, just to ask, see i only apply hyper dressing on plastic wheel wells, and there are some cars where the wheel wells are made of painted metal or plastic right? mostly the older cars as i have noticed. Is it ok to apply protectant to these surfaces as well? i was wondering if i could also apply protectant to these painted surfaces without having to worry about adverse effects on the paint.

[Chikselog]

By hand application ng SwirlX, kasi wala pa ako KP600, paano ang application nito?

BTW here are the pics of the rear wheel wells

right

left

[madkatz]

*Chickselog: its best when you work it one panel at a time, simply apply the product to a foam applicator, make sure you apply a moderate to a liberal amount of product to the paint panel and make sure you cover the whole panel you are applying the product to. Using the foam applicator, sort of work the product either in circular or in a linear motion, a lot like massaging the product into the paint for at least 2 minutes for a small panel and 3 minutes for a large panel. After working the product wipe it off immediately with a clean MF towel and check the results. If there are still swirls left behind you could re-apply the product once more, applying the product using lighter pressure with a shorter period of time would cut less but is a lot safer since you could always apply more product after until you achieve the results. Do not apply heavy pressure at the same time working the product for a long period of time as you might actually cut a lot of clearcoat/paint in the process. Hmmm imagine its just like waxing your car but you go back around 5 to 7 more passes.

Try this video: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLvMeOT0Iko&feature=player_embedded"]YouTube- Video Training Series - Surface Prep[/ame]

Hope this helps.

[jonjon_u]

*jon: hehe actually i've noticed that too. in my case what i use on the plastic wheel wells is Megs hyper dressing. The effect is like the dirt and mud are a lot easier to remove. But jon, just to ask, see i only apply hyper dressing on plastic wheel wells, and there are some cars where the wheel wells are made of painted metal or plastic right? mostly the older cars as i have noticed. Is it ok to apply protectant to these surfaces as well? i was wondering if i could also apply protectant to these painted surfaces without having to worry about adverse effects on the paint.

I think the protectant would be of help if the wheel wells have some plastic or rubber surfaces. If, on the other hand, a large part of the wheel well is painted, then I think we could apply the technique used by a cousin of mine. He uses spray paint on the painted parts of the wheel wells if he feels like touching them up. Hope this helps

[jonjon_u]

I guess the appearance of those wheel wells could still be improved.

Use different kinds of brushes, with your car shampoo. If that doesn't cut it, the try some household detergent. Like madkatz had said , it won't be spanking clean, but at least the crud/grime/mud won't be as much of a problem. After that, it's up to you if you still prefer to spray some protectant on your wheel wells.

Tiyagaan lang talaga sa umpisa. For your next wheel well detailing session, you'll soon discover that cleaning them would be much easier.

By the way, you could include that part of the painted panel edge in your wash, clay, and wax sessions.

Hope this helps

By hand application ng SwirlX, kasi wala pa ako KP600, paano ang application nito?

BTW here are the pics of the rear wheel wells

right

left

[Jon Albano]

photo of the hood of the car i detailed, this is the before shot.

[Jon Albano]

how can i post photos? thanks. i want to show the progress and problem areas in the car i detailed last sunday. thanks

[Chikselog]

how can i post photos? thanks. i want to show the progress and problem areas in the car i detailed last sunday. thanks

Upload your photos in photobucket..Then mouse over to it and copy the IMG CODE..

[Starex_Gold]

With regard to the wheel wells...

I clean them with car shampoo and some brushes, then rinse.

I then spray some diluted water-based protectant on them. In my case, I use diluted Armor All (1:1 or 2:1).

Maybe it's just me, or maybe because I just clean the wheel wells regularly... but I've found that the wheel wells are much easier to clean since I started doing this method.

same here. pero ako pinag hahalo ko yung car shampoo at Joy ultra kasi may degreasing formula yung Joy.

since Bnew nililinis ko na yung wheel wells para di na maipon yung mga dumi.

here's the result:

[Chikselog]

Sir SG di po ba matatanggal ang "rustproof" ng toyota kapag nililinis ang ilalim using, let's say pressure washer? safe po ba gamitin ang joy? baka po kasi matanggal yung rustproof coating ng toyota sa ilalim..

And I'd also like to ask your opinion kung paano po kapag makapal na yung nag build up na dumi sa wheel wells like what happened to our car? is using kerosene the best way to start?

[madkatz]

*Chickselog: I tried to clean my wheel wells last night, what i did was spray Megs Super Degreaser dilution of 1:4, let it sit for about a minute and sprayed it again, used an extended brush and wiped it off with old damaged MF towel and its already clean. Sprayed some kerosene to remove asphalts left, left it for about 2 minutes, wiped it with MF towel. Sprayed degreaser again to remove kerosene. Sprayed some Megs Hyper Dressing on the rubber trims and some Spray wax on the painted panels ( i read jon's post all wrong i thought spray wax, it was supposed to be spray paint hehe ). The results are fantastic! its so clean!! so clean that i can see all the stone chips and all the damages on the painted parts hehehe. I asked someone from Megs and they said they're not sure about kerosene but the hyper dressing will not harm the rust proofing coating.

Hope this helps