Detailing Thread [For Newbies][continued]

[indiej]

my answers in blue.

Actually i only based it on the actual demo panel we have, we were able to try Aquartz thru our mentor, he brought one ..a lot of scratches which as only about a few lines about 5 to 10% at most on the Aquartz panel, so we really think its a great deal especially for those who want a scratch free finish but can't practice the two bucket method

it surely would have helped a lot if it was the time when you got very ill from your vacation and your CRV was.. in need of Aquartz
this answers a lot of questions: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=168666
Glasgow has low 7-12 deg C and high 16-20 deg C weather from May-July.

The product i was refering to is, yeah, Opti-Coat hehe, Opti-Coat is what we're comparing to Aquartz Paint Coating, the Aquartz Reloaded is what we compare to Opti-seal.

afaik, aquartz reacts to the paint, aquartz reloaded reacts to the layer of aquartz.

As for Opti-coat, thats what we are actually eyeing on, we think its definitely better than Opti-seal but we don't think it would be available for consumers we could only sell it to individuals who we trust can prep their cars..

optimum has its reasons. even Gtechniq C1 and Aquartz are not readily available in the U.S. more of legal reasons i guess. optimum's stance in the U.S. alienates some hobbyists though.

.. we're required to clean the whole garage and mop it before we start a detail, its air-conditioned by whirlpool with special air-filter, its a very nice place to detail since its really cool but thats only environment we could apply Opti-coat, either that or a purely closed garage..

i bet some of the testers don't have that clean room

As for Aquartz based on how it was explained to us, i would admit that its less finicky than other coating companies products, but then again both Aquartz and Opti-Coat along with their rivals are no longer considered as sealants, they are on a whole new level of paint coating like Liquid Glass Legend.

exactly. another game changer. i forgot the previous ones. waterless wash? sealants? anyway i hope these glass type coatings improve their ease of application rapidly.

from what i've read, aquartz can be layered and made available to those who want it. opti-coat can fix clearcoat damage.

no more 8-24 hour sealant cure time between layers. if the LSPs aren't compatible, i'm sure they'll figure something to couple with these new tech coatings to further improve their look and add that sacrificial layer.

[Sureshot]

im a girl by the way, do you work the product with heavy pressure? if its very light swirls you might not have worked the product thoroughly either that or you've already dry buffed the product, if you're using scratchX you should be carefull to always maintain it lubricated. so far your procedure is correct, even by hand application i've had great results with scratchX, try to work with moderate pressure to remove the scratches and with light pressure to finish off and remove the swirls created.

ay sorry po mam hehe. tamang pressure lang naman po ginagawa ko and opo mam very light swirls lang yung mark po nang pinagpunasan yung nakikita pag tinamaan ng sunlight or malakas na ilaw. so pano po mawala yun mam repeat process lang po ulit?

[madkatz]

my answers in blue.

Actually if it was that instance when i was at canyon woods how i wish i already had Liquid Glass Legend then, my bottle arrived 3 months later, at that time i didn't have any polychargers yet so too bad for me and the fact that i was sick didn't help, yeah how i wish i had these new paint protection products before that incident happened, im really game to try Aquartz but i guess purchasing one would have to wait a little longer i might get mine next year, as for Opti-coat we're very excited to try and test it outside, and we're also excited to have out mentor bring some over from the US, he's basically one of the people thats very keen on new products and lets us test it, there's actually a towel he showed me, its a clay cloth, it makes removing contaminants a breeze, you pretty much just have to moisten it and wipe it on the paint and its like you're already clayed the finish its that easy, As for Aquartz Reloaded i think you could also use this as a stand alone product, based on how i see reviews its like a Wipe on Walk away type of product.

And yeah i really do hope they make things easier especially for the enthusiasts, its not like everyone has a clean garage and has all the tools so making it marketable for them would really result in a win win situation, i mean enthusiasts get the desired results, companies get increased sales, i also want to know how much vehicles one bottle of Aquartz Paint Coating can coat, based on the size i think its gonna be a lot easier to use Aquartz i mean thats basically a whole bottle for a few vehicles right? Opti-coat is contained in a small 10cc syringe, and it should already cover 2 to 3 vehicles, now talk about spreading the product really really thin. i can't even imagine how thin we have to apply it since we already used up about 1cc just for the whole test hood.

[madkatz]

ay sorry po mam hehe. tamang pressure lang naman po ginagawa ko and opo mam very light swirls lang yung mark po nang pinagpunasan yung nakikita pag tinamaan ng sunlight or malakas na ilaw. so pano po mawala yun mam repeat process lang po ulit?

try it one more time but this time work it a little longer until it starts to set and get dry, but not dry ok? throughout the whole process use light pressure only and when you feel the foad pad start to stick and isn't that lubricated anymore stop and remove it. if its still there try to bring it over to the next detail seminar.

[jmpet626]

Ashphalt removal, Clay, Moms Step 1, Alcohol Wipe down and 2 coats of Klasse S&G. 12 hours inbetween coats

[scharnhorst]

^^wow. good job sir!

[Sureshot]

try it one more time but this time work it a little longer until it starts to set and get dry, but not dry ok? throughout the whole process use light pressure only and when you feel the foad pad start to stick and isn't that lubricated anymore stop and remove it. if its still there try to bring it over to the next detail seminar.

ok po mam thanks po ng marami!

[watusi]

Hello gurus!

I've been doing a lot of back-reading about detailing and after 3 weeks, I'm still in page 225

I would just like to thank you for sharing your detailing knowledge to newbies like me. Kudos to MAdkatz, bf ni Madkatz, Jon and Chickselog Pat on the back

you guys really inspired me. Im a guy who usually went to car washes, but now I wash my own car. I also wash my wife and friend's car for practice, hehe. Difficult at first but with the proper tools and 70psi water pressure, i got the hang of it after a couple of washes.

Copying mf051404's routine(post 5022), I plan to wash+clay+wash+apply nano gloss+ apply collinite 915+nano sliq to my wife's old car before trying it out on my new car(practice muna, hehe). Hope that AutoBisyo would have promo for the 915.

I have some questions

1. Is it ok to layer the Collinite brand with the Microtex waxes? (I read on some posts that mixing different brands isn't recommended)
   
2. Do I need to strip the old wax layer before placing a new layer? If yes, how do I strip the wax?
   
3. Will the initial layer of wax bond properly with the paint given that I applied Mother's brand QD for clay lubrication?
   
4. Can I use Sliq for lubricating the clay?
   
5. What do you think about this combo? Im after filling swirls(nano Glos), long term protection (collinite 915), and shine (nano Sliq)....im not sure if this combination would be durable because I read that the most durable wax should be applied first, in this case, the 915. but in post number 5022 in the Detailing thread for Newbies (archived), Nano GLos was suggested to be placed first before the collinite wax. Im a bit confused
   
6. if the Glos+915+SLiq combo isn't ok, what product combo/layering would you recommend for filling swirls, protection, beading, and shine? My schedule permits me to do a monthly waxing+waxing session and weekly car wash and weekly application of Sliq, and daily dusting off. Maximum budget of P5000 for the 3 steps. car's age is 6months old (but a lot of swirl marks from Casa's mistake - filler really needed becuause i don't want to reduce the clearcoat)

I read that you had a detailing EB of some sort. Will there be any seminar soon? I would like to attend and learn more from you guys.

Just like to share the interesting link below/. Very interesting....475 was outlasted by the 915.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=76435

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=85205

[zj09]

i have one more mothers clay bar at price of 1150...
u might be interested... thanks
http://cgi.ebay.ph/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...STRK:MESELX:IT

[watusi]

i have one more mothers clay bar at price of 1150...
u might be interested... thanks
http://cgi.ebay.ph/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...STRK:MESELX:IT

Thanks for the offer but upon browsing the thread, I'm considering getting the clay from BB since Ive read that it's more durable and pair it with a QD or car shampoo/water for lubrication

[jmpet626]

*watusi

1.For me I wait atleast 8 to 12 hours before layering waxes. For sealants it should be 24 hours and as long as there are no cleaners on the wax that you are applying the it should be ok.

2. Yes, you need to strip old layers of wax before applying new layer so I will bond properly to the paint. For me what I do is use a lot of car shampoo when washing then clay the whole car. Polishing also removes protection or you can use mothers step 1 pre wax cleaner.

3. There's a lot of debate going on on different detailing forums about bonding issues with different products. You can always wash the car again or Spray Ispropyl Alcohol diluted with water 1:1 after claying just to be sure.

4. Haven't tried sliq yet but i think i will lubricate the surface enough to prevent the clay from sticking. You can try ONR the 32oz bottle can make 16 gallons of clay lube and its much more economical.

[indiej]

..i also want to know how much vehicles one bottle of Aquartz Paint Coating can coat, based on the size i think its gonna be a lot easier to use Aquartz i mean thats basically a whole bottle for a few vehicles right? Opti-coat is contained in a small 10cc syringe, and it should already cover 2 to 3 vehicles, now talk about spreading the product really really thin. i can't even imagine how thin we have to apply it since we already used up about 1cc just for the whole test hood.

..price is 2800 pesos for combo sized for one application which you cannot store for more than a year.

one car two layers. adds 0.3 mil per layer. i'll get back to you if i'm to use aquartz this year.

opti-coat, 4200 Php, 3-5 cars, do not layer.

these glass type paint sealants have very similar disclaimers about their application: for pro detailers. even that won't guarantee error free results.

[madkatz]

Hello gurus!

I've been doing a lot of back-reading about detailing and after 3 weeks, I'm still in page 225

I would just like to thank you for sharing your detailing knowledge to newbies like me. Kudos to MAdkatz, bf ni Madkatz, Jon and Chickselog Pat on the back

you guys really inspired me. Im a guy who usually went to car washes, but now I wash my own car. I also wash my wife and friend's car for practice, hehe. Difficult at first but with the proper tools and 70psi water pressure, i got the hang of it after a couple of washes.

Copying mf051404's routine(post 5022), I plan to wash+clay+wash+apply nano gloss+ apply collinite 915+nano sliq to my wife's old car before trying it out on my new car(practice muna, hehe). Hope that AutoBisyo would have promo for the 915.

I have some questions

1. Is it ok to layer the Collinite brand with the Microtex waxes? (I read on some posts that mixing different brands isn't recommended)
   
2. Do I need to strip the old wax layer before placing a new layer? If yes, how do I strip the wax?
   
3. Will the initial layer of wax bond properly with the paint given that I applied Mother's brand QD for clay lubrication?
   
4. Can I use Sliq for lubricating the clay?
   
5. What do you think about this combo? Im after filling swirls(nano Glos), long term protection (collinite 915), and shine (nano Sliq)....im not sure if this combination would be durable because I read that the most durable wax should be applied first, in this case, the 915. but in post number 5022 in the Detailing thread for Newbies (archived), Nano GLos was suggested to be placed first before the collinite wax. Im a bit confused
   
6. if the Glos+915+SLiq combo isn't ok, what product combo/layering would you recommend for filling swirls, protection, beading, and shine? My schedule permits me to do a monthly waxing+waxing session and weekly car wash and weekly application of Sliq, and daily dusting off. Maximum budget of P5000 for the 3 steps. car's age is 6months old (but a lot of swirl marks from Casa's mistake - filler really needed becuause i don't want to reduce the clearcoat)

I read that you had a detailing EB of some sort. Will there be any seminar soon? I would like to attend and learn more from you guys.

Just like to share the interesting link below/. Very interesting....475 was outlasted by the 915.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=76435

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=85205

Hello, We're just glad we could help, you mentioned Jon, i really missed that guy posting here, before he's like my big brother in detailing, its like even though i know technically what i should do i still turn to him to make sure what im doing is right, he's also one great detailer

If you're looking for a promo from Autobisyo, send me a pm, i might be able to get the 915 a little less for you, but you still have to meet up with Jerome, i could just tell him to give you our discount istead.

Yes it is ok to layer waxes and sealants as long as the following conditions have been met

1. The toughest always goes in first

example = if you put on a Collinite first then put on a lesser durable wax like most OTC waxes or spray waxes then it should be ok, what you shouldn't do ( well not really recommended ) is when you apply OTC waxes (especially the oily ones ) first and then top it with Collinite.

As for some waxes like Nano Glos and EO Nano Wax, these waxes could be layered first before Collinite because 1. they are not that oily that waxes can still bond on top of them ( take note waxes only ) and 2. they could act as fillers to the paint to hide imperfections before covering it with Collinite. You could use a glaze for that part but most glazes are oily preventing proper bonding. As for those 2 waxes you still need to wait for the cure time to finish before applying Collinite.

2. Always follow cure time
Waxes = allow to cure for 4 to 8 hours to completely dry to accept the next layer
sealants = allow to cure for 24 to 48 hours to completely dry to accept the next layer

3. Make sure the layer you are putting on is compatible with the layer before

Waxes can always bond with sealants because of their chemical nature but sealant will have a hard time bonding with waxes, so if you will layer a sealant, be sure to finish all the sealant layers you want to put on before moving on to the wax layer, no mixing and matching at this point.

As for stripping off waxes, it would be advisable to strip off old layers of waxes and sealant every so often so that you could put on a fresh layer of sealant or wax on top of a freshly cleaned paint. Every 6 months is advisable for removing old layers of sealants and waxes

the benefits of practicing this is

1. Maximum bonding of paint protection to the paint
2. Removal of embedded contaminants
3. Prevention of stubborn wax and sealant build ups that can actually cause hazing and blurring ( this is caused usually by oxidized waxes )
4. Enhances the gloss of the paint by removing oxidized paint and grits in between defects crevices.

there are 5 ways i know that can remove layers of wax and sealants

1. Claying
2. Polishing/compounding
3. Pre-wax cleaners/cleaner waxes
4. Citrus Degreaser wash down
5. Asphalt removal

But its not a necessity, actually if you layer multiple sealants and waxes, its also advised to make the most out of the multiple layers before you strip them down.

It would be best to wash the car again to ensure proper bonding since Showtime contains oils, there are only some QD's out there that can be used prior to waxing, a cheap and efficient one is BB's Red Carpet QD, you could really feel the paint clean and oil free after using their QD.

Yes you could use Nano Sliq as a clay lubricant but you also have to wash it after since it also contains some oils, ONR is a good clay lubricant thats very economical

There are some exemptions to that rule and those are filler heavy waxes that doesn't have that much oils, Actually 915 can already fill some swirls but Nano Glos just does a better job, so if you could wait for Nano Glos to cure for 8 hours then putting 915 on top wouldn't be a problem, but if you use Step 3 first and 915 on top, even after 8 hours you're gonna notice the 915 fall a little short on durability, and that combo is great.

As for which products you need, i would highly suggest you just wait for a scheduled detailing seminar so that you could see which products works best for you, and its always free to try and im sure the people attending would be very much willing to share their products and tips, so to answer the other question yes there's a high chance that there would still be another detailing seminar if there's is a demand and if my BF is free, if you want you could actually try to organize a meet up or you can contact PSI or send him a PM, its quite easy to arrange a detail meet up actually, its just a matter of setting the date so my BF can reserve that sunday, provided he's not scheduled with me hehehe but this month was pretty free for him, or if PSI's not available you could contact him directly just send me a pm and i'll send you his number, just try to get around 4 to 5 people and cars so that its well worth the effort.

[madkatz]

one car two layers. adds 0.3 mil per layer. i'll get back to you if i'm to use aquartz this year.

opti-coat, 4200 Php, 3-5 cars, do not layer.

these glass type paint sealants have very similar disclaimers about their application: for pro detailers. even that won't guarantee error free results.

Whoa! i didn't know opti-coat could go as high as that, i think the price OPT gave us is a little cheaper, and if you're up for buying one Aquartz Kit, lemme know i might as well ask a favor and tag one order for me along hehe if you don't mind

[watusi]

Thanks for the quick reply! You have a blue jazz? i have a red one! apir! PAK!hehe

1.For me I wait atleast 8 to 12 hours before layering waxes. For sealants it should be 24 hours and as long as there are no cleaners on the wax that you are applying the it should be ok.

ok, i'll wait for 12 hours before applying the second layer of wax

2. Yes, you need to strip old layers of wax before applying new layer so I will bond properly to the paint. For me what I do is use a lot of car shampoo when washing then clay the whole car. Polishing also removes protection or you can use mothers step 1 pre wax cleaner.

I'll just use a lot of car shampoo because step 1 contains abrasives right? i wouldn't wanna reduce my clearcoat

3. There's a lot of debate going on on different detailing forums about bonding issues with different products. You can always wash the car again or Spray Ispropyl Alcohol diluted with water 1:1 after claying just to be sure.

ok, thanks for the tip

4. Haven't tried sliq yet but i think i will lubricate the surface enough to prevent the clay from sticking. You can try ONR the 32oz bottle can make 16 gallons of clay lube and its much more economical.

wow! 16 gallons, perfect for me. What brand would you reco for an ONR?

[indiej]

Whoa! i didn't know opti-coat could go as high as that, i think the price OPT gave us is a little cheaper, and if you're up for buying one Aquartz Kit, lemme know i might as well ask a favor and tag one order for me along hehe if you don't mind

you'll have to piggyback if i tag a request to azzkkr which i cannot do . no contacts in europe or korea either.

watusi, nice bbcode quoting there. ONR is Optimum No Rinse Car Wash. you gotta hand it to Optimum, their products are versatile.

[jmpet626]

*watusi

Moms step 1 is a very light polish. Use it only twice a year. Also before applying sealants you should clay your paint also.

[watusi]

*watusi

Moms step 1 is a very light polish. Use it only twice a year. Also before applying sealants you should clay your paint also.

oooh, noted. thanks! I really appreciate the comments

[watusi]

so the rule of thumb is always strip the old wax or sealant before applying a new coat?

So stripping the old layer of wax or sealant can be done by either of the following??

1. wash the cash using a higher concentration of car shampoo
2. using a pre-wax cleaner (max of 2 times a year)
3. claying (can be used as often as possible)
4. Alcohol Wipe down (do I apply this when the car is wet or dry?)

[indiej]

watusi,

strip the sealant and wax separately. every 6 months for the sealant, up to you how often to strip wax. this is where the method you use gets tricky cos you might inadvertently strip the sealant when you only want to strip the wax. know thy detailing products.

some people also use citrus wash or diluted dishwashing soap

don't worry too much about thinning your clearcoat, you have 5 or more compounding sessions 'til it's in danger. the prewax cleaner is lighter than a rubbing compound as long as you're not hand rubbing it heavily or using a rough applicator/buffer. AND if the CC does fail.. Opti-coat.

isopropyl alcohol (IPA) wipedown is at 1:1 dilution. use more IPA when wet. some use IPA straight.