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  1. Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    1,553
    #3441
    *jon: i had Rain Clear gel applied on my car during that drive, i wasn't able to use the windshield wipers that time, but i did notice that having Rain Clear made the bugs splatter removal by hand a lot easier. The bugs splatters i had on the windshield was already dried up when i removed them and its like with some light pressure they would come off whole, like small bug splatter cakes.

  2. Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    43
    #3442
    good day!

    ...newbie here

    ...just want to share some pics from my phone using 845 on my new tucson as suggested by and bought from sir jerome.


    question lang po...papano po bang maintenance nito? right now i am applying only the 845 weekly (nangangalahati na nga) after washing. ano po bang ang tama weekly, monthly o quarterly?

    Are there still other products that I am missing that i need to buy and apply. Would it be more glossy if i use a ROP?

    TIA for the input

    Sorry, if these were already asked and answered before.

  3. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #3443
    *lynx0: its nice to know more people are getting to know about collinite products.

    Well firstly, its a collinite, so its bound to be durable. so IMO you don't have to apply it every week. You could even go as long as 3 weeks up to a month before re-applying. 845 is a very durable wax compared to most OTC IMO. Monthly would be nice thing.

    I don't know about using ROP improving the shine as compared to by hand, but if you ask me, the foundation of a great shine and gloss is the paint condition itself, if the paint has lots of scratches and oxidation then it won't look that great, conversely if the paint is in great condition it would look great even without a wax. ROP's are usually used for minor paint correction and improving gloss. IMO ROP applied and hand applied waxes would barely have any difference. But having a ROP with the right pads and polishes would however give you the advantage of bringing out more shine and gloss from your paint.

  4. Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    2,238
    #3444
    +1 kay madkatz

    Ok yung longevity ng 845. Kahit monthly lang application nyan.

    *lynx0

    Sily bronze ba yung tucson? hehe ang kintab di ko alam kung silver or bronze sya




    Ok po ba performance ng ONR concentrate used as clay lube? Nag hahanap kasi ako ng mas practical alternative para sa clay lube eh.
    Last edited by jmpet626; February 28th, 2010 at 07:51 PM.

  5. Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    #3445
    *jmpet626: yup, im very happy with ONR, its a versatile product, you can use it as a wash or a QD and even a lot of clay lube. But for a more cheaper alternative, try using extra concentrated car shampoo, worked fine for me.

  6. Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    2,238
    #3446
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    *jmpet626: yup, im very happy with ONR, its a versatile product, you can use it as a wash or a QD and even a lot of clay lube. But for a more cheaper alternative, try using extra concentrated car shampoo, worked fine for me.

    Thanks again madkatz

  7. Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,957
    #3447
    hi detailing gurus!

    first of all...Ang kintab nung car mo madkatz...hehe...parang may showroom sa campsite ah? pano mo ginawa yung ganung kakintab? ilang products yung gianamit mo bale? parang kalalabas lang sa casa...hehe

    I just wanna ask a question regarding stupid paint chips....

    Could you give me tips on getting rid of them without painting?

    and If anyone of you have already tried the Turtle wax na color specific na may kasamang Chip stick that we can buy from ace hardware?... Can you recommend it ba? TIA

  8. Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    43
    #3448
    thanks madkatz for the input.
    mabuti di ako nakabili kanina sa ACE ng Turtle Wax QD, di na pala kailangan yon.

    *jmpet626 it's titanium gray

  9. Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    176
    #3449
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    *jon: i had Rain Clear gel applied on my car during that drive, i wasn't able to use the windshield wipers that time, but i did notice that having Rain Clear made the bugs splatter removal by hand a lot easier. The bugs splatters i had on the windshield was already dried up when i removed them and its like with some light pressure they would come off whole, like small bug splatter cakes.
    Thanks for the update. I guess the Rain Clear Gel really held up vs. the splatter.

    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    *Jon: i have a question, i've tried the Megs 105 and 205 as well as SwirlX and Ultimate compound, and at some point they also become clear, does that mean it has reached its cut? or can i still go on and it would still provide me some more cut? Now that you mentioned about SMATs and traditional polishes becoming clear when broken down, i was just wondering if SMAT becoming clear would also mean it has reached its cut limit? I've used 105 and 205 on an old BMW and based on how i look at it i think it also looses cut after sometime, but the good thing i noticed was even if its clear already you could still polish with the residue to produce a great gloss, same things with UC on a PC.
    I've also noticed my SwirlX and Ultimate Compound become almost clear when I work it for some time. If I understood it correctly, and if I were to speculate, the abrasives, being non-diminishing, are still there. It's just that the lubricating oils were just used up or spent.

    That's why there's a special technique for using these products. From what I've read, they've likened the process of using these products to the process involved in wetsanding - the paper to the polish or compound, the water to the lubricating oils, and the pad to the sanding block. When using these products, you just need to properly prime the pad with product, maintain constant polisher speed, maintain constant hand/arm pressure throughout the passes, and just make around 2 to 3 passes; then stop and check your progress.

    On the other hand, when it comes to products containing diminishing abrasives, we've been accustomed to use the zenith point technique. Here, we have to spread the product using a low polisher speed with light pressure, then we have to make a number of passes using a higher speed with firm pressure, then later on ease up on the pressure and lowering the speed again once the polish turns almost clear mainly because the abrasives have broken down.

    Please note that this is just my readings of how the products work. I could be wrong on my interpretation.

    Hope this helps though.

  10. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #3450
    *jmpet626: BTW theres a sale at ADS now that sells ONR for only 19.99$ per gallon, thats a great deal.

  11. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #3451
    *locoroco777: I've tried that, if you're after concealing and filling swirls then its ok to use, it can in some ways improve the appearance of your car like what i mentioned before in removing the swirls and it sometimes help it darkening oxidized paints but aside from that, thats basically it. The one thing i don't like about it is that once you use it, it can improve your paint thats true but its like make up, its gone after one wash, and the next bad thing i hate about it is that it doesn't go well when you apply a wax on top of it. With regards to Chipstick the first one i got was a bit hard, it was like harder than crayons so i went off to buy another one since the Sales Rep at Ace won't replace it. The second one was a little softer and true enough to its claim it can mask scratches and chips BUT it will only make a significant difference it the damage has done all the way to the primer, it does a great job of covering your primer with the specific color but when you take a closer look you will still notice the scratches and chips. With using the Chipstick you could last a few washes without removing it just as long as you don't apply pressure on the area you are cleaning. I tried cleaning the affected part one time using Chenile Washmitts and after about 3 washes its gone. If the defects are already showing the primer then i guess this would be great product to at least hide the defects, but if the scratches are that deep enough i would just suggest you minimize the visual flaw by polishing the paint and reducing the eyesore.

    Well if you mean by painting that you don't use paint then i don't know any other solution to paint chips, but if you mean by without painting you mean without repainting the whole panel then what you could do is, go to your dealership and ask them if you could purchase some of the stock paints. What i did in my case was when some idiot taxi swiped my bumper half a year ago i had it fixed via insurance on Toyota Quezon Avenue and while it was there, since they had to paint a fresh bumper with the factory color code specifically for me, i just asked them if they could give me some of the extra paints they have that they would just throw away, i guess my charms worked on the guy and he gave me a ml of the paint used to paint my innova and i kept it at home on an air tight container. everytime i get a stone chip i would just get some old manicure brush and dap some on the chip, lets it dry for about 1 week, buff it to even out the surface, dap some automotive sprayable clear coat and buff it again. Be careful though with some sprayable clearcoats, there was one time i tried to paint a friends rims to pink and when we layered on the paint and let it dry it was looking really good and wet and glossy, we made sure it was dry by making it on the sun for 2 days and when we sprayed clearcoat, it actually ate the paint and started to bubble the pink paint, so i guess compatibility also plays a part, with this what you could do is probably try your luck by asking some clearcoats. In the US when my cousins bought a car, the dealership would offer the customer if he wants to buy a small tin can of the paint used, sadly i haven't seen any dealership here offer it but you could try your luck, or you could do what i did and talk to the service manager and in a nice way ask if they could give you some.

    With regards to the shine on my car, i just polished it using PC 7424xp with LC orange pads and then finished it with Megs 82 with black pads for final finishing and then layered on 3 coats of Chemical guys M-seal with 24 hours in between and put on a layer of Collinite476. I polished the car to remove swirls i had, so i guess having a freshly polished paint also played a role in making it shine like it did.

    Actually to be honest, i honestly feel it was better than when i got it from the dealership, i don't know what toyota was doing but when i first got my car it already had some swirls on it, but very very minimal though, i though that this was normal, but when my BF also bought an innova, he was a lot less fortunate, his brand spanking new car had swirls all over like it was washed by common washboys using chamois, but some of the people i know that got their toyota cars from the dealership had no swirls so i guess its a case to case basis but seriously they should check and make sure the quality of the vehicles they release to the clients we had to argue with the manager of the branch to have the unit replaced which they said that they did but we honestly feel that they just buffed it.
    Last edited by madkatz; March 1st, 2010 at 03:08 AM.

  12. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #3452
    *lynx0: if you still don't have a QD, you might want to have one on hand just for those special instances where you might need to remove some bird droppings and other contaminants on your car. But it doesn't have to be TW QD since thats a bit expensive, any other QD that has enough lubrication would be fine. As for the 845, you should use is sparingly, my bottle of 845 lasted me more than 15 applications at the least.

  13. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #3453
    *jon: thanks for the information and enlightening me on SMAT's, with that said i guess i should really start priming the pad with the polish properly, i though that you just pick up a bead of product as you go, so i guess im really stuck with the kevin brown method.

  14. Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,957
    #3454
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    *locoroco777: I've tried that, if you're after concealing and filling swirls then its ok to use, it can in some ways improve the appearance of your car like what i mentioned before in removing the swirls and it sometimes help it darkening oxidized paints but aside from that, thats basically it. The one thing i don't like about it is that once you use it, it can improve your paint thats true but its like make up, its gone after one wash, and the next bad thing i hate about it is that it doesn't go well when you apply a wax on top of it. With regards to Chipstick the first one i got was a bit hard, it was like harder than crayons so i went off to buy another one since the Sales Rep at Ace won't replace it. The second one was a little softer and true enough to its claim it can mask scratches and chips BUT it will only make a significant difference it the damage has done all the way to the primer, it does a great job of covering your primer with the specific color but when you take a closer look you will still notice the scratches and chips. With using the Chipstick you could last a few washes without removing it just as long as you don't apply pressure on the area you are cleaning. I tried cleaning the affected part one time using Chenile Washmitts and after about 3 washes its gone. If the defects are already showing the primer then i guess this would be great product to at least hide the defects, but if the scratches are that deep enough i would just suggest you minimize the visual flaw by polishing the paint and reducing the eyesore.

    Well if you mean by painting that you don't use paint then i don't know any other solution to paint chips, but if you mean by without painting you mean without repainting the whole panel then what you could do is, go to your dealership and ask them if you could purchase some of the stock paints. What i did in my case was when some idiot taxi swiped my bumper half a year ago i had it fixed via insurance on Toyota Quezon Avenue and while it was there, since they had to paint a fresh bumper with the factory color code specifically for me, i just asked them if they could give me some of the extra paints they have that they would just throw away, i guess my charms worked on the guy and he gave me a ml of the paint used to paint my innova and i kept it at home on an air tight container. everytime i get a stone chip i would just get some old manicure brush and dap some on the chip, lets it dry for about 1 week, buff it to even out the surface, dap some automotive sprayable clear coat and buff it again. Be careful though with some sprayable clearcoats, there was one time i tried to paint a friends rims to pink and when we layered on the paint and let it dry it was looking really good and wet and glossy, we made sure it was dry by making it on the sun for 2 days and when we sprayed clearcoat, it actually ate the paint and started to bubble the pink paint, so i guess compatibility also plays a part, with this what you could do is probably try your luck by asking some clearcoats. In the US when my cousins bought a car, the dealership would offer the customer if he wants to buy a small tin can of the paint used, sadly i haven't seen any dealership here offer it but you could try your luck, or you could do what i did and talk to the service manager and in a nice way ask if they could give you some.

    With regards to the shine on my car, i just polished it using PC 7424xp with LC orange pads and then finished it with Megs 82 with black pads for final finishing and then layered on 3 coats of Chemical guys M-seal with 24 hours in between and put on a layer of Collinite476. I polished the car to remove swirls i had, so i guess having a freshly polished paint also played a role in making it shine like it did.

    Actually to be honest, i honestly feel it was better than when i got it from the dealership, i don't know what toyota was doing but when i first got my car it already had some swirls on it, but very very minimal though, i though that this was normal, but when my BF also bought an innova, he was a lot less fortunate, his brand spanking new car had swirls all over like it was washed by common washboys using chamois, but some of the people i know that got their toyota cars from the dealership had no swirls so i guess its a case to case basis but seriously they should check and make sure the quality of the vehicles they release to the clients we had to argue with the manager of the branch to have the unit replaced which they said that they did but we honestly feel that they just buffed it.
    thanks a lot katz...

    will seriously consider your advice with regards on getting rid of those pesky paintchips....


    and with regards to what you did with your innova, it kinda sounds expensive.... is there a downgraded version of it? but with the same steps being done like the 3 layered sealant? and BTW did you use a machine buffer all through out the process?

    TIA sorry for the many questions, its just that I realize recently that in order for me to be satisfied on how my car would look like...I should be the one doing the detailing myself....

  15. Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    1,553
    #3455
    *locoroco777: hmmm well you could get carlack NSC and LLS and i think it would give you the same results, i forgot how much it costs though but im sure its a lot cheaper than Chemical guys M-seal. You could also try to buy Megs 20 and put on 3 layers, it would probably bring the same results, the reflectivity and mirror-like shine is something sealants are good at. The 3 layers was applied by hand.

  16. Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    56
    #3456
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    *locoroco777: hmmm well you could get carlack NSC and LLS and i think it would give you the same results, i forgot how much it costs though but im sure its a lot cheaper than Chemical guys M-seal. You could also try to buy Megs 20 and put on 3 layers, it would probably bring the same results, the reflectivity and mirror-like shine is something sealants are good at. The 3 layers was applied by hand.
    Carlack NSC - P1200.00
    Carlack LLS - P1400.00
    at big bert's

  17. Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    2,238
    #3457
    *madkatz

    Wow 3 layers na hand applied!! May diff ba sa sealant pag ka hand applied or via DA?

  18. Join Date
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    #3458
    Double post

  19. Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    4,642
    #3459
    *madkatz
    I see, ang liwanag ng pics eh hehe.

    Regarding car covers. I'm no genius or anything but sana may mag-invent ng car cover tapos yung loob niya na nagttouch sa surface ng paint is composed of microfiber towels. (*madkatz, suggest mo 'to sa microtex hehehe, tapos pag gumawa na sila dapat may libre akong dalawa haha) Wala lang, kinulit lang ako ng imagination ko pero napag-isip isip ko na posible naman 'to.

    As for me, I haven't gotten my SwirlX yet. Can you believe that I can't buy it 'til now because of budget....again? Maybe ipapag-paliban ko muna ang pagbili nun for now. At least may reference na ako sa thread na 'to kung paano gamitin ang SwirlX.

    Kanina lang the under a big fluorescent light from the parking of Puregold, may mga kinang pa yung paint eh (yung parang glitters). Looks much like the Habanero Red of Honda IMO. Ang problema lang talaga is the swirls. Kung walang swirls IMHO tingin ko parang bnew ang look nung car (except for the dent! ).

    To all, I have a question. Pag may dent ba tulad ng pics below, pwede bang itulak na lang yung body nung door from behind? kumbaga tatanggalin yung pinaka-plastic yung nasa loob ng car door tapos itutulak na lang yung body para maging straight ulit.





    Another question. What do sealants look like (consistency)? Para ba siyang wax na medyo more on the liquid type? Can it be applied by hand? Round overlapping motion?
    Last edited by Chikselog; March 2nd, 2010 at 11:48 PM.

  20. Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    1,553
    #3460
    *jmpet626: hmm i think its a little thicker if you apply it by hand, i think its too then if you apply it via DA but thats just me and i don't have anything to back that up, i said that because i tried both by hand and via DA and with both cases i still end up without that much to remove and with hand i use more product and with hand im sure that all parts are adequately coated.

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