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September 5th, 2012 04:59 PM #11
plastic aluminum radiators kasi tsambahan talaga. yun esi namin 5 years yung vti 12 years na noon ok pa rad nya. yun outie ko 8 years tinagal ng rad. nag singaw na sa top plastic part pwede naman dw pa tanso pero nag install na lang ko bnew na koyorad for peace of mind for the next 5 years or so.
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September 5th, 2012 06:56 PM #12
Plastic radiator header tanks are like fuses (when compared to electrical circuits). When the engine is overheating and internal pressures pass a certain limit, the plastic headers are designed to rupture. Thereby saving the cylinder head and other main engine components from severe and irrepairable damage. Mercedes Benz radiators are all plastic/aluminium since the 80's.
Converting it to brass (tanso) is a bad move.
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Tsikoteer
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September 9th, 2012 08:59 PM #13Pressure relief in a radiator loops comes in two devices. First your cap, which raises internal pressure by 1 atmosphere. Second is the overflow.
Plastic radiator tanks ARE NOT designed to rupture.
Plastic radiator tanks wear out because of the thermal expansion experienced by both the header plates causes wear on the o-rings underneath. This joint is purely mechanical, unlike brass radiators which are fully welded with solder.
I personally have issues with people here whose commercial interests override commonsense and general metallurgy. Do NOT, and I repeat, DO NOT replace that plastic tank with a brass tank for your aluminum core. Brass Tank + Aluminum Core + Coolant = Galvanic Corrosion. That's not a maybe that's science.
Not to mention the ridiculous amounts of lead solder they would chuck into that to "Seal it".
The places that offer radiator overhaul are likewise suspect given they can actually do more harm by damaging your radiator.
A new radiator is always cheaper than an overhaul.
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September 9th, 2012 10:20 PM #14i had experience like that. it seems, mahina ang isang aux fan, ngunit umi-ikot pa naman. at kung hindi pa sakin pinakita kung gaano talaga kalakas ang normal fan, ay hindi ko makikita ang pagkaka-iba.. ayun.. pinalitan. ok na.
Last edited by dr. d; September 9th, 2012 at 10:22 PM.
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September 10th, 2012 02:16 AM #16
It depends..
First of all, what you have is a sealed type cooling system. So if there is a leak then, mauubos
ang coolant.
Since what you have is Tubig, Then your cooling system is not to specification.
It boils water, the design is not to boil water.
Or there may be a leak.
Now how do you do a simple failure analysis on this?
Use a coolant and inspect for leaks, follow the dyes.
Read a online manual if you can and observe your tail pipe if there is abnormal discharge, color etc.
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September 10th, 2012 12:11 PM #17You have a leak.
Radiator systems are sealed systems for good reason. Air inside the loop makes for poor conductivity and they really don't need to be maintained.
If by the time your water only coolant evaporates -it already means that your cooling system is in trouble.
Your radiator is designed to keep your engine operating within 80-90C. Water boiling inside your cooling loop at practically 2 atmospheres means your engine is overheating. (the pressure cap elevates everything by 1 atm)
Having coolant only raises the boiling point of water but lowers its thermal conductivity.
If your engine has severe cavitation you will likely have leaks through it in which the coolant seeps through.
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September 10th, 2012 12:50 PM #18
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September 10th, 2012 01:08 PM #19
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September 10th, 2012 01:18 PM #20sabi ng mga nagre-repair ng radiators, dahil meron na raw kalawang, mas delikado raw gumamit ng coolant dahil magbabara pag nag peel yung kalawang. suggestion nila distilled water. tama ba sila?
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