Sorry Evercool but we beg to differ.

[oj88]

From what I understand, this should not make the radiator an anode. Grounding the the radiator ensures that stray current will not
flow through the radiator since current follows the least resistive path (which is the grounding wire).

I was under the impression that grounding the radiator core would cause any charge present in the coolant to dissipate in the radiator, encouraging corrosion.

FWIW, I had to order the Honda Type 2 long-life coolant from the US a few years ago as it is the recommended coolant for my Civic (as stated in the manual and on the sticker under the hood). This is also the same coolant used when the car came out of the factory.

The only locally available Honda coolant is the Type 1 (non-long-life)... and I never use it, much less aftermarket coolants.

My car will be 5 y/o this January and I have not changed the factory coolant once. It's still the blue-colored liquid without any hint of corrosion. I only top it up with Honda Type 2 coolant once or twice a year.

[EVO-V]

I was under the impression that grounding the radiator core would cause any charge present in the coolant to dissipate in the radiator, encouraging corrosion.

Car manufacturers prefer to keep the radiator electrically isolated. You really can't dissipate the charge in the coolant through the radiator.

Any transfer of voltages/current between a solid-fluid medium will cause a reaction . Kinda like electricity from wall sockets arcing when you plug in an appliance that was left switched on. The electricity jumps into the air from the socket to the plug.

That happens at a microscopic level between the coolant and the radiator.

[EVO-V]

FWIW, I had to order the Honda Type 2 long-life coolant from the US a few years ago as it is the recommended coolant for my Civic (as stated in the manual and on the sticker under the hood). This is also the same coolant used when the car came out of the factory.

The only locally available Honda coolant is the Type 1 (non-long-life)... and I never use it, much less aftermarket coolants.

My car will be 5 y/o this January and I have not changed the factory coolant once. It's still the blue-colored liquid without any hint of corrosion. I only top it up with Honda Type 2 coolant once or twice a year.

The reservoir should have enough coolant to accommodate losses due to gassification and permeation in between recommended changes.

But that is exactly what people should be doing for their cars and what manufacturers should be recommending.

The Philippines is a cost-sensitive market that people would prefer to pay cheap now and pray that it doesn't bite them in the arse later.

Businesswise more coolant = more money. More crapped out radiators = more business for manufacturers and/or radiator repair shops.

[oj88]

Car manufacturers prefer to keep the radiator electrically isolated. You really can't dissipate the charge in the coolant through the radiator.

Any transfer of voltages/current between a solid-fluid medium will cause a reaction . Kinda like electricity from wall sockets arcing when you plug in an appliance that was left switched on. The electricity jumps into the air from the socket to the plug.

That happens at a microscopic level between the coolant and the radiator.

Exactly my point. Thanks for confirming what little knowledge I have on cooling systems.

As I mentioned several posts back, the fact that most modern aluminum radiators are practically isolated from the chassis ground (by using rubber grommets and plastic tops and bottoms) are a dead giveaway.

Grounding the radiator OR using it as a grounding point for any electrical accessory is just asking for trouble.

[EVO-V]

Exactly my point. Thanks for confirming what little knowledge I have on cooling systems.

As I mentioned several posts back, the fact that most modern aluminum radiators are practically isolated from the chassis ground (by using rubber grommets and plastic tops and bottoms) are a dead giveaway.

Grounding the radiator OR using it as a grounding point for any electrical accessory is just asking for trouble.

Most of these things should be commonsense but we have to deal with a lot of pseudo science floating around that is just discrediting the local industry and causing harm to consumers.


Here's another one from that website: Radiators: How hot is too hot? | Automotive Parts Suppliers

The normal temperature of an engine should be around 90 to 105 degree Celsius. With the help of radiators, the engines can go up as high as 135 degree Celsius. The radiators will be there to back up as the cooler all the time. That’s where flat fin radiators become useful as they can cover a lot of area to control the above-average temperature of the engine.

Not too sure about the 135C figure here. But I find it funny how they start inserting "Flat fin" surreptitiously here without justifying it.

Flat fin radiators have far lesser surface area than folded fin radiators per area. These are arguably the most inferior configurations for heat transfer but are structurally more rigid. They serve a purpose for use in heavy duty/high vibration applications which are prone to fouling (clogging).

For one to get an equivalent performance for a typical car radiator using a flat fin implementation, you're going to have something 2-3 times the size. Which will cause fitment issues not to mention serious weight addition. Not to mention these things aren't cheap given it takes 20 times as much more time to build a flat fin radiator.

So unless your ride is a John Deere tractor this snippet doesn't make any sense.

And the hits just keep coming:

Warm air goes up, cool air goes down. Therefore it will be ideal to place your radiators above the engine and let physics do the work.

For natural convection to be effective for your cars, you will need a really large amount of surface area i.e. a large radiator roughly the size of the car itself to get enough surface area. And for this to be practical, you will need to have the space to mount it. This over the top implementation has been done for earth moving equipment but not for the reasons of passive convection but because ramming through a mound of dirt can foul up your radiator. And even then it uses a fan.

Moreover, I do not think it is wise utilizing warm air as your fluid medium to remove heat from a radiator. For one, it is hotter thus has a lower thermal capacity, and in certain conditions you may end up heating up your core rather than cooling it.

[EVO-V]

To check your coolant level, you simply need to look at the white plastic overflow tank beside your radiator. These containers usually have high-low level labels on them which will help you determine if it’s time for you to replenish you coolant. If your coolant level is already low, just remove the cap on your coolant tank and add your mixture until it reaches its recommended level again. And then, place back the cap to close the receptacle.

Replenishing your coolant without determining the reason for loss is imbecilic.

[dr. d]

Replenishing your coolant without determining the reason for loss is imbecilic.

when my coolant level reached the low point for the first time since i bought the car, brand new, five years ago... all i did was top it off. two years after, it still hadn't gone down back to the low point.
sometimes, the "determining period" takes a longer time than usual...

[EVO-V]

Coolant loss either due to leaks, permeation, evaporation (of the water component) is excessive once that level goes down drastically. You need to figure out why this is happening. Excessive evaporation may leave residue clogging your radiator tubes.

Modern vehicles shouldn't be losing any coolant until it needs to be changed.

Modern coolants, i.e. lifetime coolants will not go down unless there's a leak.