Sorry Evercool but we beg to differ.

[EVO-V]

Radiator Misconceptions: Radiators Help Your Car Air Conditioner

This is a site that runs articles to artificially bump up the ratings of Evercool's website.

Thing is, its chocful of misinformation and half-researched principles presented in a verbose yet grammatically impaired manner.

Let's take this snippet for example:

But a common misconception is out there for some average Joes. (Car buffs don’t need to know about this basic thing). A lot of people think that radiators help your car’s air conditioning system. And I am here to tell you in this article that it is a misconception. Allow me to elaborate.

First off, let’s separate the two components. What does each one do? In doing so, you’ll know how they are not related to each other. Don’t worry, I won’t get too technical to keep things as simple and as understandable as can be.

First off, in most orthodox configurations, the radiator's condenser coil is situated in front of your radiator. So suffice to say, if the radiator is improperly configured, to a point that it doesn't allow sufficient airflow through it, the condenser will suffer. A hotter condenser = a less efficient A/C system.

For example, the common upgrade path people employ when their radiators gives up the ghost is to try and get a radiator with an extra row. Unbeknownst to most people this isn't really solving the problem. A radiator with an extra row will more often than not result in lower overall system airflow.

Do the deduction and that will translate to inefficiencies with the condenser.

Secondly, on a more functional trail, a highly efficient radiator WILL keep your engine cooler especially in traffic while your air conditioning is running and your airflow is limited by your auxiliary fan(s).

It seems mildly immaterial at first, but it is something to note that any incremental efficiencies across the life time of your vehicle amounts to pretty much a lot of savings.

[EVO-V]

From: Uncategorized | Automotive Parts Suppliers

Cons:

Copper radiators are generally heavier than its aluminum counterpart

Since copper radiator tubes have smaller, narrower tubes, it tends to clog more than aluminum tubes

First, weight/heat transfer ratio depends largely on design. There are copper-brass radiators that actually are of equivalent weight than aluminum radiators for the size and even better in terms of heat transfer capacity.

Second, it is absolutely wrong that brass radiator tubes are more prone to clogging. Brass tubes have thinner walls being a function of brass' higher tensile strength. This in turn translates to a larger internal tube diameter.

Aluminum tubes have thicker walls because the brazing process used in manufacturing aluminum radiator cores, literally evaporates layers of zinc off the tube and brings aluminum very near its melting point. This necessitates a thicker tube wall to ensure sufficient structural strength is maintained.

Clogging is an issue due to debris emanating from corrosion. If we look at things as they are, aluminum radiators are more prone to corrosion, especially in the absence of coolant, and are thus more mechanically prone to clogging.

Pros:

Aluminum...Shinier and flashier than copper radiators (if ever you plan to use your vehicle for show)

Is it now?

Much lighter in weight. The difference is about 30-40%. So if you’re planning to speed your car up, go with aluminum radiators.

A fair comparison in weight for radiators has to be phrased in relation to heat transfer capacity. Yes aluminum is lighter. But given specific applications an aluminum radiator will end up larger and heavier for a certain performance point.

Aluminum Radiators have 1 inch wide tubes compared to copper radiator’s half-inch wide tubes...

Wrong. More advanced copper-brass radiators have wider tubes. Tube and fin geometries are determined by requirement, most conventional manufacturers simply adapt what they have in lieu of failing to invest in more advanced technology to streamline design.

Cons:

Aluminum Radiators are said to let Air flow into the system – causing rust

WTF? Rust is Iron Oxide. This doesn't even make sense.

Easier to break when vehicle overheats

I'm sure Evercool has seen its fair share of radiators it has made that has bulged, buckled and leaked. A properly constructed aluminum radiator will be as good as a properly built copper-brass radiator.

Harder to repair than copper radiators

Not with the correct welding alloy.

This is irresponsible marketing. It isn't even skewed, its just outright erroneous.

[EVO-V]

Hey thugs, wassup? :P

[EVO-V]

Regularly Perform a Radiator Flush

For your radiator to do its work effectively, it needs to be free from any dirt or blockage. You can make sure your radiator is clean by doing a radiator flush.

from: How Do I Maintain My Flat Fin Radiator? | Automotive Parts Suppliers

This is wrong. If you need to flush your radiator regularly because of debris, it means that your cooling loop is heavily corroded and suffers from severe cavitation. This after all is the source of blockage and debris.

Cooling systems by design are sealed systems, they should not leak, generate precipitate, or produce debris. If this is occurring your engine is practically being eaten inside out.

Ultimately this means that the coolant mixture employed doesn't have the necessary corrosion and cavitation inhibitors.

Corrosion in simple terms is kalawang.

Cavitation in an engine is caused by high pressure impact of the coolant on a metal surface. Think about it like microscopic hammers banging on the walls of the water channels causing particles to chip off across time. This is bad as it lowers your engine's lifetime.

[j_dipad]

may galit kba sa evercool o bad experience TS?

[s10pao]

from: How Do I Maintain My Flat Fin Radiator? | Automotive Parts Suppliers

This is wrong. If you need to flush your radiator regularly because of debris, it means that your cooling loop is heavily corroded and suffers from severe cavitation. This after all is the source of blockage and debris.

Cooling systems by design are sealed systems, they should not leak, generate precipitate, or produce debris. If this is occurring your engine is practically being eaten inside out.

Ultimately this means that the coolant mixture employed doesn't have the necessary corrosion and cavitation inhibitors.

Corrosion in simple terms is kalawang.

Cavitation in an engine is caused by high pressure impact of the coolant on a metal surface. Think about it like microscopic hammers banging on the walls of the water channels causing particles to chip off across time. This is bad as it lowers your engine's lifetime.

so sir whats your suggestion on how to maintain our radiators? ung turo kasi sa akin ay i-flush ung coolant every 2 years without using radiator flush.

[EVO-V]

If your car is brand new, you don't need to flush your system for the next 100,000KM.

If your car is a bit old, it helps to have a good flush at the 100,000 KM mark, with filtration so you can capture any sediments/debris before the inlet.

Then with a 30-70 or even a 50-50 coolant/water mixture, fill up your loop to its normal level. Depending on your coolant type and state of internal corrosion, that should last you another 100,000+ KM easily.

But note, hydrous coolants, i.e. those with water are not dielectric meaning they are conductive. If your engine is grounded, you're going to have a galvanic soup and it is normally the aluminum parts that will be the corroded away.

Also, in the case of heavy duty engines, with particular attention to the poorly researched article above, cavitation at the cylinder linings become very critical as they will degrade the life of your engine and clog your radiator tubes with the debris.

[s10pao]

Thanks for the info sir.

But if I insist on flushing the engine cooling system every 2 years, would it be damaging or simply just a waste of time?

Also, how would we know if the engine is grounded?

[EVO-V]

may galit kba sa evercool o bad experience TS?

Does science have to be personal? You have the lone mass market radiator manufacturer spewing spurious hooey and you don't have a problem with that?

Thanks for the info sir.

But if I insist on flushing the engine cooling system every 2 years, would it be damaging or simply just a waste of time?

Also, how would we know if the engine is grounded?

Wouldn't hurt your engine but its a waste of time and you pollute with the waste coolant. I assume most people don't bother to collect the fluid run offs to properly dispose of them.

But pay attention to the color of your coolant. It should retain its dominant color. If it becomes predominantly "kalawang" you will need to flush your loop.

Use a multi-meter (tester). You shouldn't have electrical current going through the engine.

[dr. d]

get an air-cooled VW. heh heh.
and don't all engines have to be grounded? otherwise, there won't be no spark, and the glow plugs won't glow..?