Aircon Problem-OFW from KSA

**gorionikoy** · August 14th, 2011 05:55 PM

papano naman kung meron lang flapper valve na sira o di kaya hindi lapat?ala na bomba un?ibig sabihin hindi 100 percent ang kundisyun ng comp..at isa pa hindi lahat ng merong bula eh kulang ng freon..papano kung high pressure pala?at isa pa kaya ginawa ang gauge pressure,papano naman ang mga alang sight glass?mass maganda siguro na pagawa natin sa pro ikanga at hindi DIY na baka lumala pa sira..salamat ho.

**MrQ5** · August 14th, 2011 07:43 PM

OT: sira nga AC ng thread na ito masyado maiinit dito este ang mga tao, excuse mo po nakikiraan lang....

maaaring isa sa kanila ay tama, usually naman AC shop free ang check up...try the least expensive first from the above mentioned solution
1. fan belt tensioning
2. a)refrigerant (freon)visual inspection,
then, leak test
If (+) pa fix mo at add freon
* iba mahal maningil pag o-ring replacement sa compressor pero dapat sana hindi dahil simple lang ito.
* minsan kahit na fix na leak na mga 3 buwan lang wala ng lamig may leak pa din kasi pero di syado makita sa leak test pero ito sa mga OLD CARS lang kadalasan ( which is not your case, for more info lang)
b) condenser fan check, baka madumi lang terminals o kaya brush replacement lang.

3. AC cleaning (must be skilled person when doing it in the shop, specially the reinstalling and tightening process) kung hindi mga 1 buwan lang di na lalamig yan kasi leak ng freon mo.

4. your nightmare, the compressor thing,,,

**burjegol** · August 15th, 2011 01:06 AM

Originally Posted by gorionikoy

papano naman kung meron lang flapper valve na sira o di kaya hindi lapat?ala na bomba un?ibig sabihin hindi 100 percent ang kundisyun ng comp..at isa pa hindi lahat ng merong bula eh kulang ng freon..papano kung high pressure pala?at isa pa kaya ginawa ang gauge pressure,papano naman ang mga alang sight glass?mass maganda siguro na pagawa natin sa pro ikanga at hindi DIY na baka lumala pa sira..salamat ho.

pag flapper valve na ang sira, o kahit hindi lapat, loose comopression. kahit i-rev up mo pa ang makina mo, di pa rin lalamig ang A/C mo sa kadahilanan na hindi nya kaya i-bomba ang required amount of refrigerant to handle the evaporator cooling load.
ang pag check ng bula na sina suggest ko is just a makeshift to check the quantity of refrigerant in the system. Mas tama talaga kung meron kang compund gage to check. pero sa tingin mo, meron kaya ng ganon si TS? ano ibig mo sabihin na high pressure? paki elaborate na lang ng husto para mapaliwanag kita ng husto (rin). Ala sight glass? So far, sa mga natingnan kung car A/c system, mga 80% sa kanila ang merong sight glass. (alam mo kung sa-an nakalagay ito?) so, I assumed ne merong sight glass ang system nya.
sinabi ko sa TS na i-check muna ang ganon sa kadahilanan na maraming car A/C technician sasabihin na compressor agad ang sira para malaki-laki ang damage mo. And don't tell me na hindi dahil nangyari na sa akin ito 2X na. The idiot told me that sira ang comrpessor ng aircon, when I knew na meron lang leak sa flare nut connection. La ako gamit that time kaya I decided na ipagawa. ang hindi niya alam is that, he is talking to an HVAC engineer.

ang mga ganito ay dapat talaga ipa-gawa sa marurunong dahil mahirap i-DIY. kaya lang na suggest ko ito dahil hindi ako kumbinsido sa diagnosis ng techincian base sa saysay ng TS

**gorionikoy** · December 18th, 2011 10:33 AM

hindi rin siguro...kaya nga merong tech dyan na hindi alam ang sinasabi ko.

**glenn manikis** · December 19th, 2011 06:21 AM

Originally Posted by hayay2003

Hello kababayans, Im OFW from Saudi Arabia and I have AC Problem to my Chevrolet Trailblazer 2006 Automatic Transmission.

History:
1. Habang nakastop or naka park yung car, Mahina ang lamig ng AC ngunit Kapag inapakan ko ang Accelarator-Revolution lumalamig sya.
2. Habang Tumatakbo yung Car Sobrang Lamig ang AC, ngunit kapag nasa traffic Light ako or kapag nag stop ako humihina ang lamig.

Kababayans, Sana po matulungan nyo po ako. Salamat

kung original pa yung condenser nyo... malamang condenser po nag babara na... nag hi pressure pag naka idling or traffic... palitan nyo nalang ng bago... or dapat i flush mabuti yung loob ng condenser... 90percent probability..

or aux fan nyo baka mahina na.... or baka need na palitan...

or kulang freon...

**rdc** · January 15th, 2012 11:02 AM

hi sir, makikiraan lng po, ang tamang pag check po ng a/c system e pakabitan mo ng gages manifold para malaman ang
pressure ng lo side at hi side pressure.
1. check ang lo pressure gages kung mababa (lock of refregerant).
2. check ang hi pressure gages kung over 300psi (check ang aux.fan or clutch fan) replace or repair ang fan
3 pag loose compresion ang compresor over 60psi ang lo side..
salamat po... kung may karagdagan pong tanong txt nyo po ako cp.. 09218059258...

**burjegol** · January 15th, 2012 01:09 PM

Originally Posted by rdc

hi sir, makikiraan lng po, ang tamang pag check po ng a/c system e pakabitan mo ng gages manifold para malaman ang
pressure ng lo side at hi side pressure.
1. check ang lo pressure gages kung mababa (lock of refregerant).
2. check ang hi pressure gages kung over 300psi (check ang aux.fan or clutch fan) replace or repair ang fan
3 pag loose compresion ang compresor over 60psi ang lo side..
salamat po... kung may karagdagan pong tanong txt nyo po ako cp.. 09218059258...

Incomplete info. Pagkabit ko ng gage, papalo agad ang Lo side ng 90 psig kung R-12. Pag R-134 around 110 psig. Loose compression na?

You should specify at what rpm should the engine be running to obtain the correct pressure reading.

**rdc** · January 15th, 2012 07:16 PM

hi, sir sorry incomplete po ung info.ko kailangan po e engine running,switch on ang compressor para ma read po ang tamang
reading ng gages manifold ng step 2 & 3 idle lng po malaman n po ang problem...tnx po.

**jick.cejoco** · January 24th, 2012 03:14 PM

the fact that the subject vehicle is a 2006 chevrolet trailblazer, the refrigerant must be R134a and not R12; also, the fact that it is a chevrolet, it must be using an orifice tube; the fact that it is using an orifice tube, it must be using an accumulator/dryer and not a receiver/dryer- if there was a sight glass, the sight glass will always be cloudy since R134a appears cloudy and the sight glass (if equipped) is on the suction (low) side of the refrigeration circuit. the orifice tube may either be variable orifice tube valve (VOV) or a fixed orifice tube (FOV). the low side pressure varies between 27 psig to 35 psig. the outlet temperature is always advisable to be at 27 psig (32*F or 0*C). it should not freeze at this freezing pressure and temperature since warm cabin air and the cooling loads prevents this from happening and the pressure switch disengages the compressor clutch whenever the pressure goes down below 27 psig or the target temperature had been reached and cycles on and off. the discharge side varies with airflow across the condenser and the ambient temperature. the high side must be at least twice the static pressure of the refrigerant in the system at rest.

**burjegol** · January 24th, 2012 05:10 PM

Originally Posted by jick.cejoco

the fact that the subject vehicle is a 2006 chevrolet trailblazer, the refrigerant must be R134a and not R12; also, the fact that it is a chevrolet, it must be using an orifice tube; the fact that it is using an orifice tube, it must be using an accumulator/dryer and not a receiver/dryer- if there was a sight glass, the sight glass will always be cloudy since R134a appears cloudy and the sight glass (if equipped) is on the suction (low) side of the refrigeration circuit. the orifice tube may either be variable orifice tube valve (VOV) or a fixed orifice tube (FOV). the low side pressure varies between 27 psig to 35 psig. the outlet temperature is always advisable to be at 27 psig (32*F or 0*C). it should not freeze at this freezing pressure and temperature since warm cabin air and the cooling loads prevents this from happening and the pressure switch disengages the compressor clutch whenever the pressure goes down below 27 psig or the target temperature had been reached and cycles on and off. the discharge side varies with airflow across the condenser and the ambient temperature. the high side must be at least twice the static pressure of the refrigerant in the system at rest.

got to clear somethings about the facts you have stated.

1. could you elaborate what you mean by an accumulator/dryer and receiver/dryer? In my 30 years as an practicing HVAC engineer, i haven't heard this terminology. an accumulator is a big different from a dryer and from a liquid receiver.

2. Likewise sight glass is usually installed in the liquid side to monitor the refrigerant state. I have encountered a sight glass which is connected to the suction side but it was to monitor the oil return to the compressor. The vision of the sight glass in the suction side as you mentioned will be cloudy, Of course as you are viewing the vapor state of the refrigerant. since it is colorless, the probable medium you are seeing the oil entrained in the refrigerant. If the sight glass is installed in the liquid line, you will view a clear sight glass when refrigerant quantity is correct, in accordance to its operating pressure.

3. fixed orifice and variable orifice? what controls the variable orifice to open and close to regulate the flow of refrigerant? Or you just simply means capillary expansion device (fixed orifice) or thermostatic expansion valve (variable orifice) ?

4. the low side varies from 27 to 35 psig, at what rpm of the engine? and the setting of the low pressure switch to open at 27 psig is usually utilised in R-22 system. We are discussing about R-134 system.