AC Mainit Pa Rin! - New Evap, Exp Valve and Drier

[_Cathy_]

Hi. I drive a 96 Corolla. I just had my AC repaired today. Exactly a year ago I was in the same ac repair shop. Below are the details of what was done to my car:

Sep 2006:
General Cleaning - P850
Flush System - P300
Replace Filter Drier Denso Original - P1500
Replace Cooling Coil Serpentine -P4000

18 Oct 2007:
General Cleaning - P1,100
Flush System - P300
Replace Filter Drier Denso Original - P1,500
Replace Expansion Valve Denso Original - P1,600

I am really frustrated because after all that has been done, my AC doesn't function as well as it did before. It got even worse because before the repair/replacements done today I could do with just number 1, but now I have to switch to number 2 even if I have no passengers at all. I was told that the reason why the drier broke down so easily was because my radiator was leaking (which is true coz I saw it myself). Given that it is true, I just don't understand why it's still mainit. It really isn't just my imagination coz before the recent break down I really don't go above number 1 when I'm driving alone e going home from the repair shop I was a second away from brreaking a sweat. It wasn't that hot naman. Also I noticed that the pitch of my car horn got higher. It sounds so bad. I thought I was just imagining it but our helper didn't even recognize the horn and my dog didn't even bark thinking that it was another car. I feel dyaje to go back to the repair shop just a day after coz they might say that there's nothing wrong naman. Also the mechanic might think that I'm too finicky. Also do you guys know what the temperature inside the car should be when the AC is on low? They didn't show me the temp kasi. Last year they showed it to me before I left. So do you guys recommend that I go back tomorrow or should I just switch to another repair shop? or should my priority be buying a new radiator? The top portion is leaking badly kasi, they said that if I don't have it repaired immediately, it might cause the other parts near the radiator to break down as well (from the heat) . Thanks

[kinyo]

Also do you guys know what the temperature inside the car should be when the AC is on low?

if you stick a thermometer at your aircon vent on the dashboard, it should read around 12 degrees celsius when the compressor is operating, engine idling on shaded parking, low fan ... i would guess >16C is not cold enough

[theveed]

One thing about AC system in automobile is that rarely can it be fixed part by part if something went wrong previously.

Meaning, let's say something went wrong before, you let it slide and you only do freon top-ups... That's a big start of something that'll snowball as years go by.

Everytime you lose freon and recharge it, most smaller shops don't replenish the oil in your compressor at the same time. If I'm not mistaken, all AC system should have a proper ratio of freon to oil in order for everything to run smoothly.

If you only top up freon and not the oil, soon enough, o-rings will stiffen, compressor bearings will lack lubricity, pressure valves will fail, evaporators will leak, etc etc etc.

If you only fix things a part at a time, you're just going to replace things continously.

Based on my experience, as soon as something goes wrong with the cooling system, have it done by a reputable shop, fix the problem and replace the consumables right away like drier, freon and replace compressor oil.

Been there before, AC repairs every 3-6 months for 3 straight years... Got sick of it and got everything fixed in one go. Change compressor, flushed all coolant/oil, replaced what should be replaced (o-rings, expansion valve, drier) and filled it up with proper freon and oil ratio. Problem gone for half a decade with ice-cold cooling.

[seonadancing]

I completely agree. I had the same experience and it's really best to have somebody look at the whole system instead of just replacing a broken part.

[cfatchma]

Try mo pacheck yung ac compressor mo bka busted. Kase kailngan nagpapawis yung tubo ng ac papunta sa loob ng ac condenser. tapos kung ipapaservice mo ulit. try mo pabaklas yung evaporator, tapos yung tubo na papuntang ac compressor pabaklas mo den. Tapos pabugahan mo ng hangin. baka kase my bara na yung tubo. pag ayaw paren. d ko na alam hehehe

[rlp1099]

+100 kay theveed

know everyone wants to save a little here and there

i summed up all my receipts doing that and still ended up having the entire AC system (except hosing) changed on my 15 year old ride

so butas ang wallet and savings pero sobra naman lamig ng auto

moral of lesson:

punta ka sa marunong at reputable na lugar
acquistion cost will really set you back but will pay off later

[banawe]

Sep 2006:
General Cleaning - P850
Flush System - P300
Replace Filter Drier Denso Original - P1500
Replace Cooling Coil Serpentine -P4000

18 Oct 2007:
General Cleaning - P1,100
Flush System - P300
Replace Filter Drier Denso Original - P1,500
Replace Expansion Valve Denso Original - P1,600


i was looking at your expenses ... i think your problem is your cooling coil ... serpentine usually cost 2500 - 3000 ... the problem sa serpentine matagal lumamig ... that may be the probelm ... if your paying for a good cooling coil ... dapat nag laminated ka na ... 4000 - 5000 ..... you don't have to pay 4500 for a serpentine

you can also change oil ng compressor baka kulang na yung lakas niya ...

BANAWE AUTO SUPPLY
regy

[autofrost]

hi, 1st, have your compressor checked for compression, maybe mdyo mhina na bomba nya, it can be checked by installing it with a gauge by a technician, low side at idling speed should at least be 50 or lower, its hi side should at least be 200, considering na nippondenso ang ac system mo, dapat malamig talaga. 2nd, its the evaporator, originally, nippondenso should be laminated, tama si banawe, mdyo matagal lumamig un, as with my experience as a ac shop owner, sa corolla, d match ang serpentine, it should be laminated. it varies with each vehicles kung mag match ang replacement evaporator.

[alwayz_yummy]

have your compressor, aux fan, condenser checked too...

[4JGtootsie]

What happened to me once was the AC shop told me general cleaning ang recommendation. Only to find out after that the drive plate has too much clearance that the magnetic solenoid can not engage the compressor to the pulley. Puno ng freon at malinis lahat when i saw system during dismantling.I was so dissapointed with me and the shop for not seeing the simple problem. Pinokpok lang yung stopper para lumapit. Ayon sayang pera ko for refrigerant, valves and driers. Dual pa naman.

Drive plate is the front most part of the compressor. Pagsumasama ang ikot naka engage pag stationary yon hindi magpupump ang compressor ergo hindi lalamig. Clearance or gap is critical dito.