(BusinessWorld 8/19/05)

From "murder city" to "one of the most livable cities in Asia" (identities bestowed upon by the defunct Asiaweek magazine). Indeed, Davao City has gone a long way.

Today, the city is one of the nation’s top tourist destinations. Recently, businessmen have chosen Davao as one of the most competitive metropolitan cities in the country, according to a report by the Asian Institute of Management Policy Center.

Most visitors describe Davao as "a land of exotic beauty and rich culture." Historians claim that the name Davao is derived from the ancient Bagobo word daba-daba, which means fire. Meanwhile, the Tagabua tribe called the river bisecting the region daba, and the Guiangan tribe tagged it davoh -- thus Davao.

Historical records show that the Spaniards, led by Alvaro de Saavedra in 1528, were the first foreigners to visit Davao. In 1847, after the Spanish troops revolted and killed Muslim leader Datu Bago, Don Jose Uyanguren became the first governor who renamed the place Guipuzcoa.

In 1900, the Japanese came and established extensive plantations of abaca around the gulf area, and at the same engaged in logging, fishing and trading.

The increase in the Japanese population earned Davao the nickname "Japan kuo" (little Japan). In 1937, Davao became a charter city when President Manuel L. Quezon signed a commonwealth law, which was sponsored by then Davao Assemblyman Romualdo Quimpo.

LARGEST CITY

With a total land area of 244,000 hectares, Davao is considered the largest city in the world, about 7.8 times the size of Cebu and three times that of Metro Manila. There were previous proposals to divide the city into three areas, but these never prospered.

There are two reasons which make Davao unique: its people and its warm hospitality. Davao City is a melting pot of 1.2 million -- both indigenous and migrants now being acculturated into the mainstream of society, creating a unique cosmopolitan culture.

Visayan migrants make up the majority of the population. The Ilongos and llocanos are also represented.

Coexisting with them are the Muslims and the indigenous tribes such as the Bagobo (who prefer to be called Tagabawa), Mandaya, Manobo, T’boli, Mansaka and B’laan.

"The solemn rituals of the tribes, their rhythmic dance steps and chanting music, and the rich customs and traditions of migrants make up the Davao culture of today," observed a local tourism official.

Most people speak Bisaya, particularly Cebuano. Other languages include Tagalog, Chinese and Muslim. The majority can speak and understand English. Eighty-four percent of the people are Roman Catholic, Protestants comprise 4.5%, and more than 2% practice Islam.

APO DUWALING

Davao is known for Mount Apo, the durian, and the exotic waling-waling. Mount Apo is the highest peak in the country at 3,143 meters. It takes about four days to traverse the summit.

Mountain climbers are urged to contact the Department of Tourism Office in Davao or the Mt. Apo Climbers Association of Davao City for tents, camping, gear, provisions, and guides.

The Davao Tourism Office also organizes Holy Week climbs called "Conquer Mt. Apo" and college semestral break ascents in October called "Octotrek." The trail are Tamayong (Calinan), Baracatan (Toril), and Eden (also in Toril).

The hike is a trek through tropical forest along hot and cold springs, hidden waterfalls, orchid varities and wild flowers, cicadas, and God’s other little creatures.

Durian, meanwhile, is known for its different odor. Some Westerners describe the fruit as "smells like hell but tastes like heaven."

In his diary, the 19th-century British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace wrote that his journey to the East was worth it "if only to taste durian fruit."

Here’s a tip to visitors who would like to taste durian: After eating, put some water into the empty durian shell and wash your hands in it. This removes the odor. Try anything else -- detergents, deodorant, or any cleansing agent -- the smell will remain.

The exotic waling-waling (Vanda sanderiana) used to abound in the tropical forest of Mt. Apo and its surrounding areas.

"The waling-waling is almost extinct in the wildlife," said Dr. Domingo Madulid, the National Museum’s senior botanist. "Rarer varieties of this plant can only be found in expensive nurseries."

The waling-waling can be found at the Malagos Garden resort, which also hosts rare orchids. The resort has a restaurant, butterfly sanctuary, horseback riding facilities, fishponds, golf driving range, swimming pool, adventure playground, seminar halls, camp site, and cottages.

ENDANGERED SPECIES

One of the resort’s recent tourist attractions is the "Amazing Bird Show," which opens at 10 a.m. Sundays and has a message to the audience: Save the birds before they’d be gone forever.

Watching the show, American national Jonathan E. Rudy said, "I’ve been to Africa and South America and I think [the Philippines] has some of the most beautiful birds I’ve ever seen. But I’m disturbed to know that some of them are being shot and maimed for life."

Indeed, the Philippines is home to some of the world’s endangered bird species, and one of them is the Philippine Eagle.

Some of the remaining species can be found at the Philippine Eagle Center, about two kilometers away from the garden resort. A resident of the center, "Pag-asa" is the first eagle hatched scientifically and bred in captivity.

The other creatures in the center include hawks, owls, pythons, deers, monkeys and a Philippine crocodile.

The Crocodile Park is home to the country’s largest crocodile at 5.48 meters, and named "Pangil" (Pilipino for fang).

The 5.4-hectare mini-zoo houses several local crocodile species and a mini-zoo for wild cats, python, turtles, monitor lizard, monkeys and various kinds of birds.

FINE BEACHES

Davao also has a number of beaches. Times beach, two kilometers from the city center, bustles with visitors on weekends.

Historic Talomo beach is remembered as a landing site for Japanese and American forces in World War II. In fact, sunken warships can still be found 200 meters ashore.

The other beach resorts are Seagull and Felis in Punta Dumalag, Mergrande in Talomo, and Vales and High Ponds in Toril.

Across the strait due east from the mainland is Samal, an unspoiled island ringed with secluded coves of white sand. Ten minutes away via pumpboat from the Waterfront Insular Hotel is a white beach dotted wit resorts such as Paradise Island, which has several talisay trees.

The most popular resort by far is Pearl Farm. Nestled in a secluded cove on Samal island, it is 45 minutes by motor launch off the coast of Davao.

"In here," says one resort staff, "we only have one rule: We don’t allow anyone to leave unsatisfied."

For diving aficionados, Davao Gulf has underwater vistas. Some of the more popular sites are found on Ligid island, Talicud island, Mushroom Rock, Limao/Sunken island, Pearl Farm and Isla Malipano. These dive sites are 45 minutes to two hours away via pumpboat from the wharf of the Waterfront Insular Hotel, and a few minutes away from the Samal island piers.

For museum buffs, there is the Davao Museum at the Insular Village in Lanang district. Its main gallery is a repository of tribal art and other material culture such as tribal art costumes, jewelries, and handicraft. There is also a gallery of paintings, sculptures and ceramics and a souvenir shop of native crafts.

At the heart of the city is the San Pedro Cathedral, which was named after San Pedro, the patron saint of Davao. The church was built in 1847 under the supervision of Don Jose Uyanguren, the Spanish conquistador of Davao.

The old altar of then San Pedro church is preserved at the right wing of the cathedral which features antique images of saints and that of St. Peter.

FESTIVAL OF FESTIVALS

Davao comes alive with the celebration of the "Kadayawan sa Dabaw" every third week of August, coinciding with the harvest of fruits, flowers and agricultural produce.

Major thoroughfares are transformed into mardi gras-like celebration with the "Indak-indak sa Kadalanan" (street dancing) where performers in ethnic-inspired garments dance to tribal music, and followed by the floral float parade.

"Araw ng Dabaw" is celebrated on March 16 as Davaoeños remember the city’s founding. The event has a parade around major thoroughfares and is highlighted by the search for the Ambassadress of Goodwill.

San Pedro St. is adorned in celebration of St. Peter’s Day on June 19. The parochial festival features bazaars set up and the vicinity of the parish, selling souvenirs, accessories and religious items.

GETTING THERE

By air transport, Davao is a 90-minute travel from Manila, and 40 minutes from Cebu.

Regular flights come in from Manila, Cebu, Cagayan de Oro, General Santos and Camiguin and is serviced by Philippine Airlines, Air Philippines and Cebu Pacific. Two regional airlines also connect from Manado in Indonesia and Singapore.

By land, the travel time is six hours from Butuan City, Agusan del Norte, six to eight hours via Bukidnon from Cagayan de Oro City.

Land Transportation is provided by Bachelor Express, Ceres Liners, Yellow Bus, Holiday Bus, and Grand. The Manila/Davao route is solely provided done by Philtranco and it takes about two traveling days.

By sea, it takes about 50 hours from Manila, 24 hours from Cebu, and 17 hours from Zamboanga City.

Weekly sailings from Manila, Cebu, Zamboanga, and Iloilo are serviced by WG&A Shipping, Sulpicio Lines and Negros Navigation.