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November 26th, 2012 10:20 PM #1
kapapalit lang ng secondary master assembly (clutch) ng L300 namin, pero after only 550kms... nag leak na. sabi ng suking mekaniko kailangan na daw palitan ang clutch disk, pressure plate and release bearing. dahil mataas daw yung clutch dati, nag adjust na daw siya at sagad na ito. maski magpalit kami ng secondory master hindi rin daw tatagal. tama ba?
is it possible na hindi sira yung tatlo? or isa lang sa tatlo ang sira?
do you have any idea how much will it cost me for the 3 items? what specific brand do you recommend?
thanks.Last edited by trucker111; November 26th, 2012 at 10:23 PM.
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November 26th, 2012 10:30 PM #2basta hindi pa nagsla-slide clutch mo hindi pa palitin ang pressure plate, clutch disc, release and pilot bearing. You dont need to replace these mentioned parts if your problem is only leakage. Leaking clutch hydraulics usually present hard shifting and not sliding clutch. Cheap replacement hydraulic clutch parts usually leak pretty easily. Is your original clutch slave not salvageable? if not place a good brand of clutch slave...
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November 26th, 2012 11:37 PM #3
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November 28th, 2012 08:14 AM #4
Ganito kasi yun, if you still have your original clutch slave (2ndary master) and the inside surface of the cylinder wall is as smooth as glass, you only have to change the repair kit. The ff japan replacement brands are good: SaM, Seiken, Aisin, Miyaco. By experience the F/C brand leaks pretty easily. There are also two types of repair kit, the1st one having double rubber O-ring & the 2nd type being single O-ring. I prefer the former for obvious reasons. Next thing to consider is the "bowl" of the repair kit should be the same as with the original to maintain the "play" of the pushrod to maintain the length b/n the clutch slave piston (repair kit) & the clutch fork to have a "normal" depth of the clutch pedal. A shallower bowl will result in " nakatukod" na clutch & a deeper bowl will have the opposite. You should always bleed your clutch system when you change its hydraulic parts or you will have a deep clutch that is unable to shift.
BTW, If your clutch slave is not salvageable, you have no choice but to replace it. The ff brands are nice: Seiken, Aisin & Sam. There are plenty of cheaper brands today but they dont last long, leak pretty easily and they usually present with a stiffer clutch ....
Oh, a seasoned mechanic knows this by heart and is a piece of cake. You have to look for another mechanic if your present mechanic tells you to change your clutch disc, pressure plate & release bearing w/o even fixing your clutch hydraulics..
Cheers!
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November 28th, 2012 02:20 PM #5
^^
thanks for the infos.
Seiken i think is the best. but the most expensive. the next best imo is Sam. I think aisin is from taiwan.
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November 28th, 2012 02:58 PM #6
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November 26th, 2012 10:35 PM #7
FIC brand ba nakuha mo? Just make sure na original siya. Sa amin ilan beses na din nasira. Pero hindi naman 550km. Usually umaabot ng 20k kms bago masira. And alam na ng driver namin pano mag DIY replace
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November 26th, 2012 11:41 PM #8
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November 26th, 2012 11:44 PM #9
i want to make sure na hindi ako ginogoyo ng mekaniko.
but 550km.... there must be something wrong.
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November 27th, 2012 10:18 AM #10
SIR maliban sa mechanico mo yung pinagkakabitan ng secondary clutch baka po ang dapat palitan...
or sir try nyo ulit palitan ang secondary clutch baka may factory defect ang nakuha mo... dalawa naman po yung goma nun dba? pag tumagas sa isa meron pang isa... at mura lang naman yan... nasa 150php lang more or less....
https://www.autoindustriya.com/auto-industry-news/2022-xpander-why-didn-t-mitsubishi-upgrade-the-gea...
Mitsubishi Xforce