ignition coil wiring (w/ pic)

[speedibot]

Gud Day mga Gurus! I'd like to ask some help lang in understanding some things.Though I drive some years already, this is my first time I'd tinker with things sa loob ng kotse kasi I own one na hehe.Recently po my acceleration was sluggish and with hesitation may it be in the 1st 2nd gear etc.My ride is a 91 corolla xl(2e).My mechanic already diagnosed it at sabi niya palyado yung kuryente ng makina.Sa research ko, it may be caused by a lot of factors (carb,electrical,spark plug. etc.)pero i'd like to replace yun pinakamadali muna.Bagong palit na ang Spark Plugs (denso); High Tension, Distributor Cap, Firing Pin.attached is a picture of my ignition coil.ganun na wiring nyan when I got it.for my understanding po I'd like to know lang po kung tama na yun NEG terminal of the Ext.Resistor is connected to the positive of the coil.I assume if this is correct naka series sya.OR it is the other way around? yun NEG ng Ext. Resistor ay sa NEG ng coil?.....any help or input is greatly appreciated.I'd like to D-I-Y sana and gonna buy a coil one of these days.Pero before anything else, ask muna po ako sa forum...thanks...pasensya napo sa haba

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...nitioncoil.jpg

[phezthie]

ang tawag dyan sa resistor ay ballast resistance/resistor...

kaya mo ba sir ma identify kung saan na connect yung isang wire ng resistor? (marked as +)... mahirap kasi mag speculate kung saan naka connect based don sa picture ...

kung sa tachometer connected yung resistor, pwedeng series or parallel ang connection. depende on what type of triggering ng tachometer was used... pag current triggered, naka series sya sa tach.. pag voltage, parallel naman sya sa ignition coil and tach. HTH

[macgyver1432000]

Gud Day mga Gurus! I'd like to ask some help lang in understanding some things.Though I drive some years already, this is my first time I'd tinker with things sa loob ng kotse kasi I own one na hehe.Recently po my acceleration was sluggish and with hesitation may it be in the 1st 2nd gear etc.My ride is a 91 corolla xl(2e).My mechanic already diagnosed it at sabi niya palyado yung kuryente ng makina.Sa research ko, it may be caused by a lot of factors (carb,electrical,spark plug. etc.)pero i'd like to replace yun pinakamadali muna.Bagong palit na ang Spark Plugs (denso); High Tension, Distributor Cap, Firing Pin.attached is a picture of my ignition coil.ganun na wiring nyan when I got it.for my understanding po I'd like to know lang po kung tama na yun NEG terminal of the Ext.Resistor is connected to the positive of the coil.I assume if this is correct naka series sya.OR it is the other way around? yun NEG ng Ext. Resistor ay sa NEG ng coil?.....any help or input is greatly appreciated.I'd like to D-I-Y sana and gonna buy a coil one of these days.Pero before anything else, ask muna po ako sa forum...thanks...pasensya napo sa haba

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...nitioncoil.jpg

speedibot,

tama ang pagkakabit ng resistor. electronically speaking, ang resistor ay walang polarity, capacitor lang ang merong polarity. yung negative connection ng ignition coil goes to the distributor that also connects to the condenser.

[macgyver1432000]

Gud Day mga Gurus! I'd like to ask some help lang in understanding some things.Though I drive some years already, this is my first time I'd tinker with things sa loob ng kotse kasi I own one na hehe.Recently po my acceleration was sluggish and with hesitation may it be in the 1st 2nd gear etc.My ride is a 91 corolla xl(2e).My mechanic already diagnosed it at sabi niya palyado yung kuryente ng makina.Sa research ko, it may be caused by a lot of factors (carb,electrical,spark plug. etc.)pero i'd like to replace yun pinakamadali muna.Bagong palit na ang Spark Plugs (denso); High Tension, Distributor Cap, Firing Pin.attached is a picture of my ignition coil.ganun na wiring nyan when I got it.for my understanding po I'd like to know lang po kung tama na yun NEG terminal of the Ext.Resistor is connected to the positive of the coil.I assume if this is correct naka series sya.OR it is the other way around? yun NEG ng Ext. Resistor ay sa NEG ng coil?.....any help or input is greatly appreciated.I'd like to D-I-Y sana and gonna buy a coil one of these days.Pero before anything else, ask muna po ako sa forum...thanks...pasensya napo sa haba

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...nitioncoil.jpg

speedibot,

tama ang pagkakabit ng resistor. electronically speaking, ang resistor ay walang polarity, capacitor lang ang merong polarity. yung negative connection ng ignition coil goes to the distributor that also connects to the condenser.

[speedibot]

salamat po sir macgyver for the quick response.and yes before may tach sya (wala kasi RPM meter ang XL sa dash) pero sabi nila mumurahin lang kaya hindi accurate ang reading nya kaya pinatanggal ko. The NEG. of the ballast resistor is connected to the POS. of the coil sir. So it is correct then?....pag kinabit ko yun bagong ignition coil with external ballast resistor....I'll just follow this set-up?....I was just curious lang kasi...parang naka series sya... thanks sir

[speedibot]

As for your question sir.....I dunno kung anong part sa loob ng kotse yun connection nun sa POS. ng Resistor...I assume it goes in a component inside the car.....di po kaya sa alternator papunta yun?(just a wild guess)..or maybe baka iyan po yun main 12V line...? I've read po in other forums na the reason why there is a resistor daw.....it is to lessen the voltage when the car is in operation down to lets say mga 6 volts.I also read na kung nababad sa "ON" position ang ingition key ng hindi umaandar ang makina...then the current going thru the coil is high hence kung bakit bumibigay ang coil/resistor......thats what exactly happened because recently I had my dashdboard repaired of the busted bulbs and wires etc.And I remember the technician na binabad nya yun ignition key in the "ON" position without cranking the engine in the duration of his rewiring.....salamat po

[phezthie]

if umaanadar pa rin ang ignition coil after you removed the tach, it means voltage triggered yung setup ng tach mo. that way naka series na siya sa coil..

pag current triggered naman at tinanggal yung tach, dapat dindi gagana until i jumper mo yung wires na naka connect sa tach..

sorry di ako marunong mag post ng pic dito, i can show you sana yung diagram for the connection.

anyway, as mcgyver said, walang polarity and resistor kaya pwede magkabiligtad yung connection. in fact kung current triggered type yung tach mo, pwede mo ikabit yung resistor ballast before or after the tach....

[speedibot]

salamat po sir pezthie for the response...I really appreciate all your inputs mga guru's Anyways...with regards to the tachometer...maybe i'd skip it muna.I'd really like the engine to be as stock as possible and run it as original as it should be.....yun nga lang talagang minsan po...hit and miss kapag 20 year-old car na...madami dami na din ako napalitan mga sirs sa car...though honestly...masakit sa bulsa...I'd say its "labor of love" nalang.This is my very first car and when I bought it...it was in bad shape......kaya eto unti unti nirerehab ko nalang. Maraming salamat po nga gurus!

[macgyver1432000]

As for your question sir.....I dunno kung anong part sa loob ng kotse yun connection nun sa POS. ng Resistor...I assume it goes in a component inside the car.....di po kaya sa alternator papunta yun?(just a wild guess)..or maybe baka iyan po yun main 12V line...?

speedibot,
anong ibig mong sabihin dun?

[macgyver1432000]

As for your question sir.....I dunno kung anong part sa loob ng kotse yun connection nun sa POS. ng Resistor...I assume it goes in a component inside the car.....di po kaya sa alternator papunta yun?(just a wild guess)..or maybe baka iyan po yun main 12V line...? I've read po in other forums na the reason why there is a resistor daw.....it is to lessen the voltage when the car is in operation down to lets say mga 6 volts.I also read na kung nababad sa "ON" position ang ingition key ng hindi umaandar ang makina...then the current going thru the coil is high hence kung bakit bumibigay ang coil/resistor......thats what exactly happened because recently I had my dashdboard repaired of the busted bulbs and wires etc.And I remember the technician na binabad nya yun ignition key in the "ON" position without cranking the engine in the duration of his rewiring.....salamat po

speedibot,
di dapat binababad sa ON position dahil nga masisira ang coil at resistor. so, bantayan mo lang.

[speedibot]

Oo nga po Sir Macgyver....when it was in the shop...It past my mind na dapat hindi naka babad yun key sa "ON" position.neither the technician mind it.It was only later or days nalang nun napansin ko na sumisinok na ang andar ng makina...eh ginawa yun wiring sa shop ng halos half day....ayun malamang po tostado ang coil.after that nga po pansin ko ang tagal mag redondo...tipong palyado...kundi ko pa sundutan ng gas...hindi papasok eh....experience is a good teacher talaga.... Pero sir, your advice, if I go for replacement parts or original ones...?In the store I buy....may mga replacement parts sila pero they call it "of good quality" kasi Japan made raw. If ever na japan made yun replacement....would I go for it? kumbaga in between economy and quality ba...? If it is not much to ask, do you have any idea how much po yun ganitong mga parts...Thanks!

[macgyver1432000]

Oo nga po Sir Macgyver....when it was in the shop...It past my mind na dapat hindi naka babad yun key sa "ON" position.neither the technician mind it.It was only later or days nalang nun napansin ko na sumisinok na ang andar ng makina...eh ginawa yun wiring sa shop ng halos half day....ayun malamang po tostado ang coil.after that nga po pansin ko ang tagal mag redondo...tipong palyado...kundi ko pa sundutan ng gas...hindi papasok eh....experience is a good teacher talaga.... Pero sir, your advice, if I go for replacement parts or original ones...?In the store I buy....may mga replacement parts sila pero they call it "of good quality" kasi Japan made raw. If ever na japan made yun replacement....would I go for it? kumbaga in between economy and quality ba...? If it is not much to ask, do you have any idea how much po yun ganitong mga parts...Thanks!

speedibot,
ok naman yung mga replacement parts. some claim they're made from Japan. they usually priced less than 1K pesos. I saw one ignition coil Bosch brand, it costs more or less 1.2K pesos.
since it's your first vehicle, and you don't intend to sell it for sometime; and the price of the original coil is over a few hundred pesos than the replacement part..then go for the original one. I'm using a Bosch ignition coil (blue)..I've been using this for over 10 years now.

[jick.cejoco]

Gud Day mga Gurus! I'd like to ask some help lang in understanding some things.Though I drive some years already, this is my first time I'd tinker with things sa loob ng kotse kasi I own one na hehe.Recently po my acceleration was sluggish and with hesitation may it be in the 1st 2nd gear etc.My ride is a 91 corolla xl(2e).My mechanic already diagnosed it at sabi niya palyado yung kuryente ng makina.Sa research ko, it may be caused by a lot of factors (carb,electrical,spark plug. etc.)pero i'd like to replace yun pinakamadali muna.Bagong palit na ang Spark Plugs (denso); High Tension, Distributor Cap, Firing Pin.attached is a picture of my ignition coil.ganun na wiring nyan when I got it.for my understanding po I'd like to know lang po kung tama na yun NEG terminal of the Ext.Resistor is connected to the positive of the coil.I assume if this is correct naka series sya.OR it is the other way around? yun NEG ng Ext. Resistor ay sa NEG ng coil?.....any help or input is greatly appreciated.I'd like to D-I-Y sana and gonna buy a coil one of these days.Pero before anything else, ask muna po ako sa forum...thanks...pasensya napo sa haba

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...nitioncoil.jpg

your connection is correct! the positive terminal of the oil cooled ignition coil is connected to circuit 15 (coming from the ignition switch-hot in run) and the negative terminal of the ignition coil primary is connected to the triggering device be it breaker points or electronic triggering. the circuit 15 runs through a ballast resistor to reduce the voltage to the primary side of the ignition coil when the engine already has started to prevent the ignition coil from getting hot. when the engine is being cranked, this circuit 15 is bypassed by a wire at the ignition switch, this bypass is connected in parallel with the circuit 50(starter solenoid) to give the ignition coil the full battery voltage for easier starts. once the engine runs, the detent in the ignition switch cancels the activation of circuit 50 and transfer the power supply to the ignition coil to terminal 15. this wiring is prevalent on points type ignition, however, some earlier electronic ignitions use the same setup

[speedibot]

your connection is correct! the positive terminal of the oil cooled ignition coil is connected to circuit 15 (coming from the ignition switch-hot in run) and the negative terminal of the ignition coil primary is connected to the triggering device be it breaker points or electronic triggering. the circuit 15 runs through a ballast resistor to reduce the voltage to the primary side of the ignition coil when the engine already has started to prevent the ignition coil from getting hot. when the engine is being cranked, this circuit 15 is bypassed by a wire at the ignition switch, this bypass is connected in parallel with the circuit 50(starter solenoid) to give the ignition coil the full battery voltage for easier starts. once the engine runs, the detent in the ignition switch cancels the activation of circuit 50 and transfer the power supply to the ignition coil to terminal 15. this wiring is prevalent on points type ignition, however, some earlier electronic ignitions use the same setup

Thanks Sir Jick for the response. It's a good thing I consulted the gurus. And another one sir...We noticed that after the car was running sluggish...we popped the hood and I touched the coil (the one in the pix)and to my surprise it was HOT! it left my skin a little red...but is this normal? Can I assume that it is because of the engine heat in the bay....?but still it can be a symptom of a failing ignition coil?...right?thanks

[macgyver1432000]

Thanks Sir Jick for the response. It's a good thing I consulted the gurus. And another one sir...We noticed that after the car was running sluggish...we popped the hood and I touched the coil (the one in the pix)and to my surprise it was HOT! it left my skin a little red...but is this normal? Can I assume that it is because of the engine heat in the bay....?but still it can be a symptom of a failing ignition coil?...right?thanks

speedibot,
The reason why your ignition coil is TOO HOT? Baka yung air gap ng spark plug mo ay malaki? Maganda sana yun para malaki ang apoy, pero overloaded naman ang ignition coil mo. Try to set the air gap according to recommended specs para sa vehicle mo. Tingnan mo rin condition ng spark plugs mo...baka nababalot na ng black soot (carbon). Try mong linisin yung tip at adjust mo yung setting ng carb mo na maging lean. Sabayan mo na rin ng pag-check sa tamang ignition timing.

[dr. d]

ignition coils normally get hot under use.
there are many possibilities for engine "palyado". it can be engine misfire, fuel starvation, etc.
maybe your problem of "palyado" is the distributor's breaker point. (does the 2e still have this? is this what you meant by "firing pin"?) maybe the mating surfaces got carbonized during the "long wait". have it cleaned and adjusted? is your distributor capacitor still ok? (again, does the 2e still have this?) when the capacitor fails, the breaker points get fried..
you say you have to add more gas to start it? baka yung carburetor solenoid ang problema..
and isn't the external resistor just to suppress radio static?... i could be wrong.. it was so long ago when i tinkered with car engines..
btw, maraming fake parts diyan.. japan... bosch... etc. and they look just like the originals. buy only from reputable stores.

[jick.cejoco]

if your car uses the dinosaur breaker points system, chances are that the degrees dwell is set wrong. the last time i tinkered with points type ignition was in 1979. the degrees dwell computation i always used:
360 degrees divided by number of cylinders multiplied by 56-58 percent tells you the rotational degrees the points remain closed. hence: 360 divided by four cylinders=90 degrees. 90 degrees multiplied by 58% is equal to 52 degrees of distributor rotation or dwell. the gap of the points with this is around twenty thousandths of an inch. the condenser around 25 microfarads. please confirm with your owner's or shop manual. this is from what i can remember from 1979.

[jick.cejoco]

if your car uses the dinosaur breaker points system, chances are that the degrees dwell is set wrong. the last time i tinkered with points type ignition was in 1979. the degrees dwell computation i always used:
360 degrees divided by number of cylinders multiplied by 56-58 percent tells you the rotational degrees the points remain closed. hence: 360 divided by four cylinders=90 degrees. 90 degrees multiplied by 58% is equal to 52 degrees of distributor rotation or dwell. the gap of the points with this is around twenty thousandths of an inch. the condenser around 25 microfarads. please confirm with your owner's or shop manual. this is from what i can remember from 1979.

[speedibot]

ignition coils normally get hot under use.
there are many possibilities for engine "palyado". it can be engine misfire, fuel starvation, etc.
maybe your problem of "palyado" is the distributor's breaker point. (does the 2e still have this? is this what you meant by "firing pin"?) maybe the mating surfaces got carbonized during the "long wait". have it cleaned and adjusted? is your distributor capacitor still ok? (again, does the 2e still have this?) when the capacitor fails, the breaker points get fried..
you say you have to add more gas to start it? baka yung carburetor solenoid ang problema..
and isn't the external resistor just to suppress radio static?... i could be wrong.. it was so long ago when i tinkered with car engines..
btw, maraming fake parts diyan.. japan... bosch... etc. and they look just like the originals. buy only from reputable stores.

Thanks Sir D. Opo it still has the distributor cap and yes a month ago I replaced them all, new cap, HTW, firing pin and sparkplugs and condenser. ang hindi ko lang sinama is the ignition coil...I'm also aware na it can be many factors pa causing the symptoms but I'm looking into it na din po...I just pray na sana wala na hehehe...kinda excited na din po to use the car in long drives hehehe....salamat sir Dr. D

[speedibot]

speedibot,
The reason why your ignition coil is TOO HOT? Baka yung air gap ng spark plug mo ay malaki? Maganda sana yun para malaki ang apoy, pero overloaded naman ang ignition coil mo. Try to set the air gap according to recommended specs para sa vehicle mo. Tingnan mo rin condition ng spark plugs mo...baka nababalot na ng black soot (carbon). Try mong linisin yung tip at adjust mo yung setting ng carb mo na maging lean. Sabayan mo na rin ng pag-check sa tamang ignition timing.

Thanks Sir Mac., The sparkplugs replacement where just bought a month ago, denso brand nila, I just told the shop the model of my car and they gave the said parts na.I was excited pa noon na mabuo unti unti ang car, pero now I know that I also have to be meticulous din what parts/number codes are to be used.What brands would you suggest? NGK, Bosch? Would you have an idea the specs for a corolla xl 1.3? thanks