Toyota Corolla 94 Sticky Brakes when engine is hot, what could be the problem?

**dhunted2000** · September 4th, 2013 12:05 AM

Originally Posted by LN106G

Ask your mechanic if the repair kit he used is identical to the one he took out. Ask him also if he adjusted the pushrod in front of the hydrovac. If he did this things, you have to redo the repair. By experience with many cars of different brands, once you touch the adjustment of the said pushrod, you mess up your brake system. Few mechanics truly understand the physics of the hydrovac-brakemaster setup. The usual scenario is like this: they take out the leaking old repair kit, send their "boy" to the nearest suking auto supply and buy the replacement repair kit. If the most identical repair kit is unavailable they buy the "nearest" identical kit to save time then do the "patch-up" job back in their talyer ( this is where the unwanted adjustments are done). This is also the start of your headache...

Also if your front wheels stick again, just release the bleeder plug on your caliper to relieve the unwanted pressure. With your predicament it is not advisable to bleed your brakemaster as this can introduce unwanted air packets in your system thereby compounding your problem further...

Scored brake cylinders will not give you sticking brakes on both wheels simultaneously. I doubt this, since you mentioned earlier that you cleaned and changed(?) the caliper kit.....

Cheers!

Thanks for the help....

we'll try to buy another MC repair kit and post any updates....

**pdspd** · September 4th, 2013 05:32 AM

Based on my personal exerience.Check vacuum leak on brake booster/hydrovac.Also check pushrod clearance between brake booster and brake pedal.Simple DIY is check/adjust brake pedal freeplay(1/2 inch).then start engine for a while.pump the brake pedal for a few times then press/hold the brake pedal.then turn off the engine .if the pedal moves slightly(2 inches max) downwards,thats normal.but if it still holds after turning off d engine,brake pedal adjustment too tight or possible brake booster defect.

**dhunted2000** · September 4th, 2013 04:27 PM

Originally Posted by pdspd

Based on my personal exerience.Check vacuum leak on brake booster/hydrovac.Also check pushrod clearance between brake booster and brake pedal.Simple DIY is check/adjust brake pedal freeplay(1/2 inch).then start engine for a while.pump the brake pedal for a few times then press/hold the brake pedal.then turn off the engine .if the pedal moves slightly(2 inches max) downwards,thats normal.but if it still holds after turning off d engine,brake pedal adjustment too tight or possible brake booster defect.

thank you sir,

i will take your advice and i'll post the result asap

**tip_tipid** · September 5th, 2013 12:09 AM

actually, the push rod that controls the action of the hydro vac is the one connected to the brake pedal. The secondary push rod on the master brake cylinder should be free to fully rest on it's own stopper when brake is not applied. Normally, there are two separate cylinders inside the brake master, which have individual springs to push the cylinders back when brake is released. also there is a stopper for the inner cylinder so that it will not slide beyond into the outer cylinder area. hope the explanation helps.
There is also a separate brake force divider.

**dr. d** · September 5th, 2013 12:26 AM

well, replacement of the brake master cylinder certainly looks like the faster (but more expensive) way out.. magkano bang bagong master ngayon?

**jick.cejoco** · September 5th, 2013 11:47 AM

Google Image Result for http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/09/2a/86/medium/0900c15280092a86.gif

Google Image Result for http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/09/2a/85/medium/0900c15280092a85.gif

**jick.cejoco** · September 5th, 2013 11:51 AM

you can use a similar fabricated tool to measure the pushrod length in relation to the primary piston cavity to make the correct adjustment

http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V3...24801/85063167

http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V3...24801/85063168

http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V3...24801/85063169

**jick.cejoco** · September 5th, 2013 12:02 PM

check your filler ports and compensating ports of the master cylinder, they can be seen through the master cylinder plastic reservoir or for the secondary filler and compensating port, you might need to remove the reservoir or the feeder hose to be able to inspect and clean these two ports.

**dhunted2000** · September 5th, 2013 04:20 PM

thanks guys for the help...

we'll try to open the master cylinder again as well as the brake hose.....

**X-isle** · December 24th, 2013 02:01 AM

Kamusta na yung brakes mo? Can you post any of your results and was the problem solved?

I have also been experiencing somewhat similar problem with this similar model of Toyota Corolla.

On my end though it usually happens when I have been on a "Stop and Go" traffic for a long time. What happens is pag apak ko on the brakes ever so slightly bigla siya mag brake as if you suddenly fully stepped on it.

And then once you start to move you'll feel the "Drag" but then if you continue moving nawawala yung drag.

Sometimes though if Im on a really tight traffic "Edsa-Like" stop and Go traffic minsan when I step on the brakes to slow down bigla ako may maririnig na very loud vibration. As in VERY LOUD VIBRATION na aakalain mo eh sumayad ka on something.

I just cannot pinpoint that vibration if its coming from the front or the back since its too loud.

Does anyone have a hunch on what problem I might have? Ang hirap kasi pagdating sa talyer, kapag gusto ko na ipakita sa mechanic hindi naman nagmamanifest yung problem.