The Electricity Saving Thread

[non-vtec]

is it true that when using AVR's rated at 1500w, it consumes 1500w even when your appliance is turned off?

[tidus1203]

^^That's not true.... That's only its stated maximum capacity not what the AVR consumes....

[non-vtec]

thanks bro. how about the consumption of a 1500w avr while on standby?

[tidus1203]

Yan ang di ko alam, pero mababa lang yan for sure as long as those connected to it are all OFF....

[pup2]

Maliit man po o malaki kung iiwan ninyo ng permanently on, malaki din po yan sa loob ng isang taon simply dahil sa dami ng HOURS na naka on siya at sa patuloy na pagtaas ng rate.

Mas maganda po, ilagay niyo sa lugar na hindi mahirap abutin para madaling i-off para sa inyo.

My .02

[pup2]

Hindi lang naman po sa ac puwedeng magtipid ... besides, there're ways to save on cooling without suffering. Maintenance of ac units or replacement with higher EER ratings, for example.

[CVT]

Originally Posted by userfriendly View Post
did a little experimet this am. hooked up a electronic ballast with a 36 watt FL tube to a clampammeter. Read .16 amps. Removed the FL tube and placed it on a magnetic ballast, .24 amps.

it looks like an electronic ballast will save electricity.

i want to try this with a watt hour meter.

Not to mention mas matipid ito sa bumbilya at mas safe (all else being equal).

I agree na mas matipid.

Pero mas safe,- base on my limited experience, I think mas safe ang bumbilya (incandescent lamp) vs. a CFL or a fluorescent lamp with a ballast, whether electronic or magnetic.

Iyon kasing bumbilya,- pag napundi,- open circuit lang... While iyong fluorescent lamp,- may mga active components (na nasa ballast) na may power pa rin....

5808:bee:

[pup2]

I agree na mas matipid.

Pero mas safe,- base on my limited experience, I think mas safe ang bumbilya (incandescent lamp) vs. a CFL or a fluorescent lamp with a ballast, whether electronic or magnetic.

Iyon kasing bumbilya,- pag napundi,- open circuit lang... While iyong fluorescent lamp,- may mga active components (na nasa ballast) na may power pa rin....

5808:bee:

Actually, I was just comparing electronic vs magnetic ballast. Sabi kasi nung building admin namin hindi daw umiinit yung electronic. And we hadn't had one fail ... til today! Papa imbestigahan ko nga kung talagang fail siya o bumbilya lang at kung nagka wiring problem eh. OMG sana hindi ekaf yung nabili ko.

We haven't had an incident with our CFL's pero sa incandescent, kung substandard, madali maging delikado kasi nag-iinit yung bulb sometimes to the point of ignition.

Then again, anything fake or substandard can be dangerous di ba?

[pup2]

Di ko pa naiimestigahan yung eballast failure ko pero eto mga na research ko about eballasts:

http://ateam.lbl.gov/Design-Guide/DG...icballasts.htm

http://www.nrgsaver.com/mall/electronic-ballast.asp

http://www.ace-ballast.com/articles/...last_Questions

http://eetdnews.lbl.gov/nl4/lamp_ballast_standard.html

http://www.nrgsaver.com/mall/magnetic-ballast.asp

Basically, eto ang natutunan ko:

1. Magnetic ballasts are scheduled for phase out in the USA in favor of eballasts by a certain year na medyo malapit na;

2. Although there is no estimate yet of the bulb/lamp life prolongation, it is based on the principle that the eballast's relative efficiency in starting will cause it to extend the bulb's life (eto na observe ko na);

3. Magnetic ballasts pala are meant for periodic replacement -- whether they're working or not. When the bulb/lamp starts to flicker/hum, it is a sign that the ballast is not working efficiently anymore -- trying to continuously start the bulb and thus shortening its life;

4. Eballasts are meant to be GROUNDED. I suspect this to be the cause of my eballast failure which I'll investigate ASAP.

[userfriendly]

you can use T5 FL lights for even more savings. hindi pa readily available ang replacements bulbs. At least hindi mabili sa corner hardware store. I think, not sure, na 24w lang ito.