we have a desktop, tapos nong kalakasan ng ulan nong tuesday na may kasamang kulog at kidlat ay bigla namatay. tapos ayaw na po mag on. ano kaya reason nito?![]()
we have a desktop, tapos nong kalakasan ng ulan nong tuesday na may kasamang kulog at kidlat ay bigla namatay. tapos ayaw na po mag on. ano kaya reason nito?![]()
check these sites
CPU will not power on after lightning strike [Solved] - Power Supplies - Components
cpu power lightning strike
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check these sites
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/311212-28-power-lightning-strike
http://www.tomshardware.com/s/cpu+power+lightning+strike/
there you go. basta may thunderstorm, unplug connections even network.
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there you go. basta may thunderstorm, unplug connections even network just to be safe.![]()
so wala rin effect kahit naka voltage regulator ka and surge protector? ang isip ko kasi this 2 are our protctions in case of lightnings
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so wala rin effect kahit naka voltage regulator ka and surge protector? ang isip ko kasi this 2 are our protctions in case of lightnings![]()
They are useless without earth grounding. Electricity101-static electricity common discharge point is the earth ground.
depende sa voltage regulator na ginagamit..
kung ang type ng voltage regulator mo eh ung maliit lang na kasama sa package.wag ka mag tiwala dun..
maganda ung parang may malaking dynamo na loob ,talagang acurate ang voltahe na nilalabas niya,kahit na mag over voltage pa.or bumaba ang kuryente
^unplug from AC socket kung wala grounding. Modern buildings/houses nowadays comes with earth ground as standard provision, one could easily check this if the outlet is 3-prong and the presence of grounding bus-bar inside the circuit breaker box.
+101 earth grounding is the only solution here. home appliances earth grounded prevent electric shocks as well.
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+101 earth grounding is the only solution here. home appliances earth grounded prevent electric shocks as well.
yup. 'yan ang sigurado.
halos lahat ng surge protector ay merong earth grounding (UL Standard, Style B Receptacle, 2P + E).
pero meron pa ring mga AVR na walang earth grounding (CEE - UL TYPE, Style A Receptacle, 2P).
just to be safe, 'yung AC outlet sa bahay, the AVR, and the Surge Protector should have
the "2P + E" or the 3-prong configuration.
Surge protector not connected on the mains earth ground is still useless. The mains receptacle where you connect these avr/surge protecter should be connected to a 3-prong with real earth-ground. These protecter devices are just varistors, varicaps, gas discharge fuses that clips ovetvoltages and routes statics in milliseconds range to the earth ground so they are useless without earth-ground. Those AVRs with motorized regulator are also useless on electronic devices because they are soo slow cant react in milliseconds range.
+1 here. Pwede naman DIY kung paano i-ground ang a/c oultet ng bahay. search lang sa google pero ingat lang baka mapahamak tayo.
bro 12vdc, pansin ko sa mga post natin knowledgeable ka sa electricity. are you an electrical engr by profession?
hingi sana ko sayo ng advise. ex. may 6 to 10 LEDs. plan ko ang soure ng power supply ay sa A/C. series o parallel ba ang interconnection ng LED? ilan ohms ang resistor at may other components need pa ba? TIA
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+1 here. Pwede naman DIY kung paano i-ground ang a/c oultet ng bahay. search lang sa google pero ingat lang baka mapahamak tayo.
bro 12vdc, pansin ko sa mga post natin knowledgeable ka sa electricity. are you an electrical engr by profession?
hingi sana ko sayo ng advise. ex. may 6 to 10 LEDs. plan ko ang soure ng power supply ay sa A/C. series o parallel ba ang interconnection ng LED? ilan ohms ang resistor at may other components need pa ba? TIA
Yup.im into those ee/ece, and a frustrated mechanic
The limiting resistor will always depend on the specification of your LED(forward voltage and current)Depending also with your circuit design, you could do it in series or parallel. Just imagine the LED xmas lights, input is AC but then converted to DC before driving the LEDs in series thru a Voltage/current trimming ckt like TRIAC. My advise is, always use a step-down voltage and isolate them in DC for your safety. Aside from LED not happy operating on AC because of low reverse breakdown voltage that could burn them, its more manageable working on DC. Ex. A typical miniature LED with 3v forward voltage and 20ma current could be safely be driven by a 1kilo ohm resistor connected to your car's battery.
You need a grounding rod. Comes in brass copper or anodized galvanized steel 5,6,8,10 ft at local electrical hardware. Drive that into the earth preferably water ground level. Connect/bond a gauge2-4 wire depends on what you are protecting, typical entrance facility at 100-200A), then connect the other end into a copper ground-bus bar for the distribution. Distribution is inside the circuit breaker box, if the existing wiring layout has no provision(3rd wire for gnd) then be creative to layout a separate wire run. It should read <4ohms at any point of your house, add additional ground rod to the opposite side if wire run is longer exceeding 4ohms. If you have a tower/mast, that should be grounded separately ideally <1ohm because direct lightning hit is very likely.
^if your LEDs are of the hi-intensity type the typical current requirement will be 100mA.
2V divided by 0.1A will give you a resistance value of 20ohms
A low intensity LED will typically require 1mA current for 2kohms resistance
Last edited by kisshmet; August 1st, 2015 at 11:56 PM.