turbo kit

[niky]

Well...

The top speed of the stock SiR is around 210 km/h or so.

If that's not enough for you, you can go the full exhaust route (get surplus headers), get engine management (andaming SAFC na available) and maybe a set of secondhand cams. Each job can be done quickly (in a day or so) so you won't have the car off the road for too long. And get some good brake pads. At the end of that, your car should be capable of hitting 220-230 km/h, and you won't have spent more than 50k pesos.

Any turbo set-up will take a lot of time and tuning. You'll have to schedule a month at least, or up to two or three if it's a complicated custom job (especially if you really want 250 whp).

[blue1108]

you could go with the b20 turbo combo, pro i warn you malakas sa gas tong engine na to. if you want something for reliable daily driving, you may want to stick with a normally aspirated engine sir

i'd go with sir niky's suggestions. yng hatch ng barkada namin was getting 180+ at the wheels from theses mods :
engine management (sorry sir niky VAFC para sa b16)
lightened flywheel and clutch from ACT
an aggressive chip for the ecu(nkalimutan ko na yng brand e, sorry)
full free flow exhaust (4 into 1 headers with therma wrap tpos scav muffler)
cold air intake
the cams, crank and head were blueprinted, balanced and polished(no porting was done though), all valves were also given an angle cut
a new set of lighter underdrive pulleys
and you will need to upgrade the brakes din, di kaya ng stock brakes yng power upgrade e

this should help release your engines' potential, total namin was less than 70k, hati hati p kmi ng tropa nun kse ginawa naming project car yng oto nya. tumagal lng ng konti sa head work and clutch kse yun lng hindi bolt on. the rest we were able to do on our own

best part was it still drives like a normal car, medyo mas matigas nga lng yng clutch.aim kse nmin was to have a car that can be driven comfortably pro palaban. daily driver din kse nya yng oto e. plus we were still averaging over 10kms per liter sa city driving

[Galactus]

The top speed of the stock SiR is around 210 km/h or so.

If that's not enough for you, you can go the full exhaust route (get surplus headers), get engine management (andaming SAFC na available) and maybe a set of secondhand cams. Each job can be done quickly (in a day or so) so you won't have the car off the road for too long. And get some good brake pads. At the end of that, your car should be capable of hitting 220-230 km/h, and you won't have spent more than 50k pesos.

50k seems to be an awful lot of money for a top speed difference of only 10 - 20 kmh.

IMO, better to spend it on a good A/V system for the car, since the TS wouldn't be feeling the 50k mods anyway, given the condition and traffic in Metro roads. Sa NLEX, nanghuhuli, tapos the SLEX is undergoing construction along certain stretches.

[niky]

A 20 km/h top speed difference is a big thing. As speed increases, wind resistance increases rather dramatically... for an added 10% to your top speed, you may need about 30-40% more power. For 250 km/h, I reckon you'd need about 220 hp or more on the Civic.

50k is actually cheap.

If you want a little kick, you can spend as little as 30k for some really crappy crush-bent pipes from header to muffler.

We've been looking at my cousin's SiR... Ferman of Speedlab suggests a secondhand Type R exhaust as a cheap option... 12k from midpipe to muffler... and it's quieter than many aftermarket systems. Should provide a 5-10 hp kick. Unfortunately, secondhand name-brand headers still cost about 20k. Brand new costs about 30 - 40k, but that's good for 10-15 hp off the bat.

VAFC na pala? Hehehe... sorrry... but if you're getting engine management, IMHO, you don't need the VAFC anymore... many of the better engine management systems can do the job better, with a 2-D map (throttle position + rpm) versus the per rpm only map of most AFCs (but if the VAFC can do it, already, then it's fine).

The only issue with the naturally aspirated route is: to make big numbers, you'll have to sacrifice what little low-rpm torque the B16 has in pursuing a freer-breathing system... that's where the B20/B16 "Frankenstein" swap comes in... giving you extra displacement, extra power and tons more torque... but unless your motor was about to conk out and your crank is wobbling like old spaghetti, I wouldn't recommend going to those extremes...