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  1. Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    7,119
    #1
    Nice going jay. Very useful post. Baka mas madalas magamit ng mga bibili ng bagong Navara yun, single fuel filter na lang kasi yung D23.

  2. Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    130
    #2
    guys....
    anong part number yong inner at outer tie rod ng navara?

    maraming salamat.

  3. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #3
    Sec 492 Power Steering Gear





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    Sec 492 Power Steering Gear




  4. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #4
    2010 Fast lang po yan V 4.6 Global model GL1.

    Im goin to clean my SCV later, be doing a writeup soon. Problem ko now hindi ko pa rin ma read yung rail pressure so wala ako reference values kung may changes sa performance. Bahala na, test drive na lang.. Hehe

  5. Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    256
    #5
    Peram ko sayo yung obd2 Bluetooth ko.

  6. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #6
    Cge bro, kung hindi ko mapagana ito sg2.. Kulang pa sa research, bka ask ko ample outdoors.

  7. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #7
    Heto na po ang SCV inspection/ cleaning procedures by yours truly.. Lol

    1. Prepare the tools. You will be needing 10mm socket wrench, 5mm allen wrench, circlip plier, carb cleaner, rags, and lots of tissue paper. Don't forget also some small diesel container(i used spam alum can) and container to recover spilled diesel underneath the vehicle.

    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425206170.578398.jpg

    2. Locate the SCV. Its the purple bung in this pic behind the fuel pump.

    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425206420.309246.jpg

    3. To get a better view, remove everything obstructing the access like the dipstick bracket, fuel intake and return hose(use the container to avoid spilling diesel in your garage) you may want to cover the hose going to the pump to avoid contamination..

    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425206657.482480.jpg
    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425206724.939845.jpg

  8. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #8
    4. Remove the electrical connector of the solenoid. The lock can be accessed by you finger from behind..

    5. Two hex intetnal bolts are securing the SCV. Unbolt it using a 5mm Allen wrench.

    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425207168.272617.jpg

    6. After removing the 2 bolts, you should be able to remove the SCV by wiggling it a bit to unseat the rubber seals on its position.

    7. Inspect for corrosion or if the mechanism is plugged with dirt.

    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425207371.367655.jpg
    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425207407.181464.jpg

    7. Remove the circlip to disassemble the plunger mechanism..
    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425207628.793680.jpg
    Take note of the orientation of spring and plunger( it will not sit in place if reversed).
    Last edited by 12vdc; March 1st, 2015 at 08:03 PM.

  9. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #9
    8. Inspect the disassembled SCV for corrosion. Remove the 2 o-ring seals.

    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425207946.643218.jpg

    Plunger should fit snugly inside the bore with not much resistance, should glide freely without grainy feel or being stucked in compressed position halfway..

    Inspect..

    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425208239.576510.jpg
    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425208270.967207.jpg
    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425208299.337543.jpg

  10. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #10
    9. Clean using carb cleaner(o-rings removed)

    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425208508.376232.jpg
    Use the tissue paper to wipe clean. [emoji12]

    10. Assemble it back including the o-rings.

    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425208830.465421.jpg

    11. Pour some fresh diesel inside SCV for initial lubrication.

    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1425208935.784398.jpg

    12. Install back SCV to fuel pump. Wiggle it a bit during insertion for the rubber seals to sit in properly. Tighten the 2bolts, connect back in place electrical connection, fuel main and return hoses, tighten everything.

    13. Pump the fuel filter then bleed air from the bottom valve of the filter.

    14. Start the engine then continue with the filter bleeding to purge any trapped air..

    15. Test drive.. You may want to reset fuel learning of ECU before driving by removing negative connection from the battery and flashing the headlight to drain any capacitor.. Drive it like you stole it, from lowest gear to abt 4krpm. See if there are improvements. ( in my case SCV seems perfectly fine prior to inspection, no significant change was noticed).

  11. Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    130
    #11
    sir 12vdc,
    wow! it's a comprehensive step by step guide.

    a lot of tsikot members will find it very handy and useful, thank you!

  12. Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    2,628
    #12
    Thanks 12vdc! This certainly will help my SCV cleaning immensely.

    Update ko lang Navara namin. I did not find the time para baklas and clean the SCV during the weekend. Ive been using the truck daily and twice na ako nag Sta.Rosa-Tagaytay road. So far since cleaning yung MAF a couple of weeks ago hindi pa naman nauulit yung low power/ not revving. I'm still keeping my fingers crossed and when time permits I'm keen na linisin nadin finally yung SCV.

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    Thanks 12vdc! This certainly will help my SCV cleaning immensely.

    Update ko lang Navara namin. I did not find the time para baklas and clean the SCV during the weekend. Ive been using the truck daily and twice na ako nag Sta.Rosa-Tagaytay road. So far since cleaning yung MAF a couple of weeks ago hindi pa naman nauulit yung low power/ not revving. I'm still keeping my fingers crossed and when time permits I'm keen na linisin nadin finally yung SCV.

  13. Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    7,119
    #13
    Nice write up guys. Scv's look clean though. Where do you guys fill up?

    Anyone know where I can get limiting straps for the lower control arm? My new shocks seem to be too short for the 1.5" lift up front. They seem to be topping out offroad.

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    Nice write up guys. Scv's look clean though. Where do you guys fill up?

    Anyone know where I can get limiting straps for the lower control arm? My new shocks seem to be too short for the 1.5" lift up front. They seem to be topping out offroad.

  14. Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    7,119
    #14
    Turns out the shocks weren't topping out, the nuts just weren't tightened enough. I need help, can't find that rubber washer on top of the primary filter. Anyone know where I can buy some?

  15. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #15
    What nut? The 3 nuts holding the strut on the upper arm or the top hat nut? Nut has built in plastic threadlock or you could use loctite red as substitute.

    I used polyurethane rubber for that seal.. Some gasket shops do customize them. Or if you have spare rubber or silicone, just cut out to make the washer then drill the center. Its about the size of 1cent maybe smaller.

  16. Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    7,119
    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by 12vdc View Post
    What nut? The 3 nuts holding the strut on the upper arm or the top hat nut? Nut has built in plastic threadlock or you could use loctite red as substitute.

    I used polyurethane rubber for that seal.. Some gasket shops do customize them. Or if you have spare rubber or silicone, just cut out to make the washer then drill the center. Its about the size of 1cent maybe smaller.
    This nut holding the shock to the mounting plate. Not really visible from here but it holds the top shock bolt in place.
    img_0786.jpg

    I think the front is overdone, maybe I can drop it by an inch. Sometimes it looks higher than the rear. A little too much preload on the front spacer anyway.
    img_0787.jpg
    What do you think? BTW the Koni Heavy Track shocks are great. Even with the added preload up front the ride is still good. With stock height it should be awesome. Can't use it for lifts higher than 1.5" though.

    Erh, I'm in the province so no gasket shops here. Will rubber from a tire tube do?

  17. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Wh1stl3r View Post
    This nut holding the shock to the mounting plate. Not really visible from here but it holds the top shock bolt in place.
    img_0786.jpg

    I think the front is overdone, maybe I can drop it by an inch. Sometimes it looks higher than the rear. A little too much preload on the front spacer anyway.
    img_0787.jpg
    What do you think? BTW the Koni Heavy Track shocks are great. Even with the added preload up front the ride is still good. With stock height it should be awesome. Can't use it for lifts higher than 1.5" though.

    Erh, I'm in the province so no gasket shops here. Will rubber from a tire tube do?
    Your rubber seats are out prolly damaged by loose nut.. Its the top hat nut of the strut, its separated by two spacers sandwiched bet shock mounting plate and 2rubber bushings.. Kung loose nga tutunog sya.. Heres some of my suspension parts in my stash.
    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1426211606.560283.jpg

    I think you need to lift the rear and slap in some meatier tyres. [emoji106]

  18. Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    7,119
    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by 12vdc View Post
    Your rubber seats are out prolly damaged by loose nut.. Its the top hat nut of the strut, its separated by two spacers sandwiched bet shock mounting plate and 2rubber bushings.. Kung loose nga tutunog sya.. Heres some of my suspension parts in my stash.
    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1426211606.560283.jpg

    I think you need to lift the rear and slap in some meatier tyres. [emoji106]
    Where do you get your suspension parts? Ang hirap maghanap nung rubber seat na yun, had to wait 3 months sa casa. Nisway, Yen and Youngbros didn't have them.

    Kaasar, kakapalit ko lang nung rubber seat na yun, wasn't cheap, I recall. Parang almost 1K/pair.

    I'm thinking of shaving the spacer in the front to lower it. Makapal pa kasi tires ko, around 60% left. Trade in is 2K lang daw. If I go higher at the rear I'll need longer shocks. Also, ayaw ko na rin lumakas yung roll sa corners. Ang ayaw ko lang magmukhang Hilux yung itsura, na subsob na masyado yung harap.

    Guess I'll have to get another set of spacers to be safe. Baka alam mo yung exact leverage ratio ng spacer thickness to ride height? Para di na ko mageexperiment hehe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 12vdc View Post
    Your rubber seats are out prolly damaged by loose nut.. Its the top hat nut of the strut, its separated by two spacers sandwiched bet shock mounting plate and 2rubber bushings.. Kung loose nga tutunog sya.. Heres some of my suspension parts in my stash.
    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1426211606.560283.jpg

    I think you need to lift the rear and slap in some meatier tyres. [emoji106]
    Where do you get your suspension parts? Ang hirap maghanap nung rubber seat na yun, had to wait 3 months sa casa. Nisway, Yen and Youngbros didn't have them.

    Kaasar, kakapalit ko lang nung rubber seat na yun, wasn't cheap, I recall. Parang almost 1K/pair.

    I'm thinking of shaving the spacer in the front to lower it. Makapal pa kasi tires ko, around 60% left. Trade in is 2K lang daw. If I go higher at the rear I'll need longer shocks. Also, ayaw ko na rin lumakas yung roll sa corners. Ang ayaw ko lang magmukhang Hilux yung itsura, na subsob na masyado yung harap.

    Guess I'll have to get another set of spacers to be safe. Baka alam mo yung exact leverage ratio ng spacer thickness to ride height? Para di na ko mageexperiment hehe.

  19. Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    1,851
    #19
    Bought this * nisman Taiwan made same as oem ng Nissan
    imageuploadedbytsikot-forums1426177644.845775.jpg

    P350 vs P1600 mahal ata tong oem

  20. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #20
    ^ yan yung pinalit nila sa AGL w/c is same quality and cheaper by a hundred.

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