Mitsubishi Pajero Fieldmaster (Gen 2.5) [continued]

[nelany]

plastic top parin nelany.

Ah ok. If ever na mag palalit ako ng top papa brass ko na lang para madaling ipa overhaul ng ordinary radiator repair shop.

[Pajd]

Normal lang basta huwag nga lang malaks ha. Tsaka kapag cold engine starting dapat wala pa, kapag wamr na engine bago dapat lalabas yan. kasi kung cold start pa lang meron an agad very noticeable na talsik, may blow-by na yan. Either ip-compression test mo to be really sure of use a heavier weight oil na 20w50 as stop gap solution. But it is not a long term solution ha. Baka kelangan na palitan piston rings kasi. have it check by a reliable mechanic if nagdududa ka.

Good sign naman na sa oil dipstick eh walang singaw.

Ok pa check ko sa mekaniko hehe kinabahan ako dun ah..btw, delo 400 15w-40 gamit ko. thanks for sharing your input sir!

[crazy_boy]

Ah ok. If ever na mag palalit ako ng top papa brass ko na lang para madaling ipa overhaul ng ordinary radiator repair shop.

nelany, mas maganda plastic top lalo na sa 4m40 natin kasi aluminum cylinder head natin. once uminit engine natin, puputok yung plastic top.

[K.I.L.L.]

i had mine repaired before. replaced the plastic top. cost is around 6.5k.

you can try Joseph Atutubo. meron siya plastic top with aluminum core. not sure about the price.

Noted on the cost. I'll try to go see Joseph Atutubo when I head back.

Good day! Former lurker here.. meron na po ba nagpa sound deadening dito para mawala yung mga maliliit na tunog sa loob ng cabin ng paj? ano mga sir ginawa niyo para mabawasan yung mga tumutunog sa loob ng cabin? thanks

I changed my rear door damper and that helped a lot.

nelany, mas maganda plastic top lalo na sa 4m40 natin kasi aluminum cylinder head natin. once uminit engine natin, puputok yung plastic top.

So the plastic top is a safeguard in case you overheat so you don't damage the cylinder heads right? At the moment, my top was changed to a brass top but I still feel I should change it to the right one. Over a month ago while checking the engine, I noticed that the radiator top had cracks. The garage recommended to change it to the brass top and it worked well until one day, my FM's temperature started climbing. I stopped at a service station and the service guy said all it needed was a flush which I did and seemed to correct the problem. I flushed the coolant and changed it again last week just to be on the safe side.

Now I am thinking of having the radiator changed to the proper one to avoid possible headaches in the future.

CB, how long have you had your plastic top? Did it blow before which is why you had it changed?

[crazy_boy]

Noted on the cost. I'll try to go see Joseph Atutubo when I head back.



I changed my rear door damper and that helped a lot.



So the plastic top is a safeguard in case you overheat so you don't damage the cylinder heads right? At the moment, my top was changed to a brass top but I still feel I should change it to the right one. Over a month ago while checking the engine, I noticed that the radiator top had cracks. The garage recommended to change it to the brass top and it worked well until one day, my FM's temperature started climbing. I stopped at a service station and the service guy said all it needed was a flush which I did and seemed to correct the problem. I flushed the coolant and changed it again last week just to be on the safe side.

Now I am thinking of having the radiator changed to the proper one to avoid possible headaches in the future.

CB, how long have you had your plastic top? Did it blow before which is why you had it changed?

nag overheat na car ko before. ended up replacing the cylinder head c/o Joseph.

cause was a leaking radiator. i ended up having the radiator repaired by Keysar in West Ave. but given the chance, i would have bought brand new radiator nalang. i think it will last longer than the old unit. baka may metal fatigue na din.

bnew plastic top, alum. core rad will cost you around 12k siguro.

[Ry_Tower]

Ok pa check ko sa mekaniko hehe kinabahan ako dun ah..btw, delo 400 15w-40 gamit ko. thanks for sharing your input sir!

Maganda naman pala oil na gamit mo. Pa-check mo na lang para sure.

nelany, mas maganda plastic top lalo na sa 4m40 natin kasi aluminum cylinder head natin. once uminit engine natin, puputok yung plastic top.

Ito rin sabi sa akin nang suking mekaniko ko, better for the cylinder head daw, mauna bibigay radiator. hehe

[K.I.L.L.]

nag overheat na car ko before. ended up replacing the cylinder head c/o Joseph.

cause was a leaking radiator. i ended up having the radiator repaired by Keysar in West Ave. but given the chance, i would have bought brand new radiator nalang. i think it will last longer than the old unit. baka may metal fatigue na din.

bnew plastic top, alum. core rad will cost you around 12k siguro.

This is why I love this thread. It's really great how we can share our experiences with our FMs. Thank you very much and have a good weekend man!

[Zeachrone]

Mga sir master saan po banda makikita ignition wire/switch ng FM natin? Diko kasi alam kung saan, ita-tap ko yung Red wire nung DRL ko..
Ganito po wiring nya:

[blue_gambit]

Regarding the radiator top, pacensya na mga tol pero I'm not convinced with the plastic top Idea na safety system yan. Dati naka plastic top ako, ayun nag crack (when it cracks its a big crack unlike sa brass small hole lang), buti na lang kita ko agad kaya di ako nag overheat. Replaced it with copper top.

One reason sa mga nabasa ko bakit naka plastic top ang radiator is due to cost of manufacturing its the cheapest. Plastic is the cheapest to manufacture, more expensive is brass and tops is aluminium. Sa heat dissipation correct me if I'm wrong between aluminium, brass and plastic.. Plastic is at the bottom followed by brass in the middle and the best is aluminium. If your running an engine with plastic top and it cracks, mga bro's pano naten irerepair yun? sa Brass basta me dala kang epoxy steel and tubig pede ka pang maka uwi. I've yet to find the real logic how a plastic radiator top is a safety system design... best way to avoid overheat, change your coolant regularly and when somethings not normal have it checked..

correct me na lang if I'm wrong with my assumptions. Peace!


Given the financial freedom to replace my Radiator, all aluminium ang ipapalit nothing else... well yun tsaka electric Engine fan... hehehe

[nelany]

nelany, mas maganda plastic top lalo na sa 4m40 natin kasi aluminum cylinder head natin. once uminit engine natin, puputok yung plastic top.

Ganun ba. So pag nag overheat siya ay puputok yung plastic top. Pag pumutok yung top e di tirik ang sasakyan dahil sa overheat. E pag brass top ano naman ang mangyayari?

[nelany]

Regarding the radiator top, pacensya na mga tol pero I'm not convinced with the plastic top Idea na safety system yan. Dati naka plastic top ako, ayun nag crack (when it cracks its a big crack unlike sa brass small hole lang), buti na lang kita ko agad kaya di ako nag overheat. Replaced it with copper top.

One reason sa mga nabasa ko bakit naka plastic top ang radiator is due to cost of manufacturing its the cheapest. Plastic is the cheapest to manufacture, more expensive is brass and tops is aluminium. Sa heat dissipation correct me if I'm wrong between aluminium, brass and plastic.. Plastic is at the bottom followed by brass in the middle and the best is aluminium. If your running an engine with plastic top and it cracks, mga bro's pano naten irerepair yun? sa Brass basta me dala kang epoxy steel and tubig pede ka pang maka uwi. I've yet to find the real logic how a plastic radiator top is a safety system design... best way to avoid overheat, change your coolant regularly and when somethings not normal have it checked..

correct me na lang if I'm wrong with my assumptions. Peace!


Given the financial freedom to replace my Radiator, all aluminium ang ipapalit nothing else... well yun tsaka electric Engine fan... hehehe

Let see yung explanation. Di ko rin ma gets safety features ng plastic top to prevent yung over heat ng engine.

Pag all aluminum ka walang repairan yan. Pag nabutas malabo ng mahinang yan. Habang hinihinang yan lalong lumalaki yung butas.

[[archie]]

Main concern lang sa brass heads are the expansion and contract of metal. plastics are used kasi they can manipulate the plastic to hold more pressure without stretching the material. Kahit logically bakal mas matibay, yung stress ng bakal weakens it. Kaya nagkakaron ng crack sa head kasi Maganda yung weld pero bumigay na yung bakal. Kaya hazzad ang bakal kasi kung crack, high pressure na kagad dun sa crack, unlike sa plastic na itutuloy niya yung sira to lessen the pressure or give way to steam.

Either way para sakin, plastic and brass have the same life span. Both of them would break down eventually.

[testament11]

Duda tuloy ako sa FM namin. Kasi ang alam ko, OEM talaga is plastic top. Ngayon naka brass top na siya. Worst, hindi kasya ang OEM radiator cap. Malamang nag-suffer ng overheating yun before namin siya nabili.

Yun JDM naman, hanggang ngayon naka plastic top pa rin since day 1 nung nabili. Pero naka-tatlong overheat na ko at sa awa ng Diyos, ni isa ay hindi related sa radiator.

I think ang plastic top ng radiator eh yun tipong may high temperature resistance na hindi basta basta puputok. Pero tama sinabi ni BG. Once pumutok yun, mahirap na siya gawin. Pero kung maalaga naman siguro sa sasakyan, hindi naman siguro yan basta basta puputok.

[blue_gambit]

Main concern lang sa brass heads are the expansion and contract of metal. plastics are used kasi they can manipulate the plastic to hold more pressure without stretching the material. Kahit logically bakal mas matibay, yung stress ng bakal weakens it. Kaya nagkakaron ng crack sa head kasi Maganda yung weld pero bumigay na yung bakal. Kaya hazzad ang bakal kasi kung crack, high pressure na kagad dun sa crack, unlike sa plastic na itutuloy niya yung sira to lessen the pressure or give way to steam.

Either way para sakin, plastic and brass have the same life span. Both of them would break down eventually.

By "head" tinutukoy mo sir is yung radiator top? and not the aluminium cylinder head

[[archie]]

Ay sorry for the wrong use of the word. Yeah, yung tuktok ng radiator.

[testament11]

I think na yun plastic top has high temp and high pressure resistance naman yan. Pero points taken doon sa mga sinabi ni BG at nelany. Nakakatakot lang din talaga ang plastic top kasi hindi mo ito magagawan ng first aid once !*#$ happens.

Sa awa naman ng Diyos, naka tatlong overheat na ko sa plastic rad top ko pero none of those are radiator issues. First was hindi lang gumana ang aux fan. While the last two, nasira yun T tube na nagdidistribute ng coolant from radiator to engine.

[Ry_Tower]

Magandang mga punto. Pero tama nga rin, basta something is unusual, dapat naman talag pa-check agad. kaya ako lagi ko tinitignan mga gauges to see if somethings not right.

Pero hindi ko alam na same lang lifespan nang metal or platic rad top. Alam ko mas madali nga masira plastic eh. Pero sa maintenance na lang siguro talaga magkakatalo.

[nelany]

Ang sa akin ay mag o over heat ang makina irregardless na plastic or brass top ang radiator pag nabutas at nawalan ng coolant. It will affect the engine one way or another. Yung build up ng pressure sa radiator causing yung leak/butas ay cause din ng baradong radiator. Hindi na free flowing yung coolant sa loob ng radiator.

Yup you need to look into your gauges always to see what's happening to your engine when you are using your rig.

[ollopasagla]

Good am!

Saan kaya pwedeng bumili ng ATF Filter, part no. MR357710? Thanks.

[blue_gambit]

Ang sa akin ay mag o over heat ang makina irregardless na plastic or brass top ang radiator pag nabutas at nawalan ng coolant. It will affect the engine one way or another. Yung build up ng pressure sa radiator causing yung leak/butas ay cause din ng baradong radiator. Hindi na free flowing yung coolant sa loob ng radiator.

Yup you need to look into your gauges always to see what's happening to your engine when you are using your rig.

sama na yung regular na palit ng Coolant ...