How to install a pressure tank?

[boybi]

Nagka leak yung bladder type na pressure tank namin, so I replaced it with the traditional stainless steel pressure tank. Hindi na ako naghire ng tubero, I just let our driver do the piping works. Ang problem ko now is, ang bilis umandar nung water pump ko. Feeling ko meron dapat akong i-adjust sa pressure tank, like the water level inside.

Pano ba ang tamang way sa pag install ng water pressure tank? Yung nabili kong tank, may 4 holes.
1 at the bottom serves as the drain plug, there's 2 on the lower side (dun ko kinabit inlet and outlet), then 1 at the upper side. Need ko ba paabutin yung water level sa upper hole before I plug it?


Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

[shadow]

sa pressure switch lang nag adjust. Parang 2 adjustment yun isa para doon sa low side Kung kailan mag kick in motor yun isa parang ma adjust both low and high side, ikaw na bahala mag timpla Kung anong psi mag on and cut off.


Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

[macsd]

You should understand the psi rating of the pressure tank. Normally it's rated at 40psi depend on size/wall thickness. Make sure the motor shut's down once the pressure gauge reach 40psi or rated max pressure of tank.

The "upper side" hole you mentioned should be where the pressure gauge be installed.

[dr. d]

pressure switches are usually pre-set at the factory, to open at about 20 psi and close at about 40 psi.
you need to install a pressure gauge to find out if the pressures are right. you can install it at either the upper hole of the tank, or beside the pump motor if there is provision for it. most of these thingees are "standard size", meaning, it will fit right the first time.
using the pressure gauge, you can adjust the open and close pressures by turning two screws on the switch...
the pipe from which your pump is sucking from, is usually fitted with a one-way valve, to prevent backflow. if this valve is defective, water from your tank might flow back out.. you can test this by turning off the gate valve of your outlet circuit and wait if the pump automatically switches on after some time or if the tank pressure gradually goes down. (they should not, even if left overnight.)

btw, your tank should have a big air bubble inside when you start at zero pressure. otherwise, if there is a small bubble only, your pump will cycle (turn on and off) rather irritatingly frequently, even if the pressure switch is adjusted correctly. i start mine with an empty tank, to maximize the bubble. it gets smaller over time, so's i have to drain it mebbe 1 - 2 times a year.

oh yes.. i think your tank is connected properly.

good luck.

[yebo]

Dapat walang water sa loob ng tank at zero pressure. So if the cut in is at 20 psi and cut out is at 40 psi the water level will range from 1/3 to 2/3 of the tank. So to start with you must drain all the water from the tank.

edit: nasabi na pala ni dr.d above.

[boybi]

I set my water pressure at 60psi, cut in at 40psi. Masyado ba mataas? Pag 40psi kasi, sobrang hina na ng tubig sa shower sa 2nd floor. Yung pressure gauge ko is nasa pump side.


Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

[dr. d]

I set my water pressure at 60psi, cut in at 40psi. Masyado ba mataas? Pag 40psi kasi, sobrang hina na ng tubig sa shower sa 2nd floor. Yung pressure gauge ko is nasa pump side.


Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

if your pressure tank can take the pressure, why not!
the manufacturer sometimes paints on the tank itself, the pressure capacity.. mebbe it's still there..
ako rin.. mahina sa 2nd floor. i upped the cut-off to 25 psi - 45 psi.. a far cry from 60 psi with my previous tank, which we bought way back in 1971... alas, after over 3 decades, it had started to leak at several places..

[shadow]

I set my water pressure at 60psi, cut in at 40psi. Masyado ba mataas? Pag 40psi kasi, sobrang hina na ng tubig sa shower sa 2nd floor. Yung pressure gauge ko is nasa pump side.


Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

Ok lang yan


Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

[macsd]

I set my water pressure at 60psi, cut in at 40psi. Masyado ba mataas? Pag 40psi kasi, sobrang hina na ng tubig sa shower sa 2nd floor. Yung pressure gauge ko is nasa pump side.


Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

If your tank is rated for it, surely why not. But next thing to lookout for is whether your pipe lines can hold on to this pressure as well. If your using GI pipe, should not be a problem but kung pvc and the joints are poorly sealed, that's where your problem might arise in the next days. Just watch out for leaks and you'll know where the culprit is.

[boybi]

Checked the tank, rated for 40psi lang. Pero nakalagay tested up to 60psi.

Bago lahat ng water pipes ko, unitec ang ginamit ko, yung crimp ang mga joints.

[Gumusut_Amige]

Try installing a check valve after your pump's discharge line. This is to prevent the pump's frequent on/off and protect its seal life.

Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

[kinyo]

The check valve at the pump's discharge line is a MUST HAVE thing.

You only need 13 psi for water to start flowing at 30 feet height.

Our pressure switch is set to cut-out at 25 psi, cut-in at 15 psi. We don't have problem at 2nd floor shower.

There must be air inside the tank when started new. It is this air that gets compressed and develop the pressure when the pump starts.

Water is incompressible so if you don't have air inside the tank, the pressure switch will immediately cut-in (starts the pump) as soon as water flows out, and cut-out as soon as flow stops.

[dr. d]

If your tank is rated for it, surely why not. But next thing to lookout for is whether your pipe lines can hold on to this pressure as well. If your using GI pipe, should not be a problem but kung pvc and the joints are poorly sealed, that's where your problem might arise in the next days. Just watch out for leaks and you'll know where the culprit is.

i use blue plastic pipe before the pump. but after pump, everything is metal.

[oj88]

We've had problems with sediment buildup in our pipes and is affecting water flow and clogging up faucets, shower heaters, and toilets. All our pipes after the water meter are PVC, so the sediment is coming from the water supply (Maynilad), especially after a low water pressure incident.

As such, I 'think' I need some sort of basic sediment filtration to be installed somewhere in our house plumbing.

My questions are:
1. What type of filter do I need for this use case? Micron rating? Flow-rate rating? The less maintenance, the better. We will NOT use it to drink from.
2. Where is it typically installed, A, B, or C? (see diagram)

[dr. d]

We've had problems with sediment buildup in our pipes and is affecting water flow and clogging up faucets, shower heaters, and toilets. All our pipes after the water meter are PVC, so the sediment is coming from the water supply (Maynilad), especially after a low water pressure incident.

As such, I 'think' I need some sort of basic sediment filtration to be installed somewhere in our house plumbing.

My questions are:
1. What type of filter do I need for this use case? Micron rating? Flow-rate rating? The less maintenance, the better. We will NOT use it to drink from.
2. Where is it typically installed, A, B, or C? (see diagram)

alternative solution.

if your main storage tank is like ours, ***
perhaps if you move the outlet pipe from the base of your main storage tank to the side of the tank, about a foot above the base, you won't need a filter anymore.
this is what we did in ours.
the sediment that manages to flow into the main storage tank, settles to the bottom of the tank. it is easily remove-able via a close-able drain underneath. you can probably transform the current outlet into a service drain to periodically be opened, so's the sediment may be directed out of it.

*** our main storage tank is an ordinary stinless tank with nakapatong lang ang top cover, which i remove on a near-daily basis, so's i can see just how much water is inside. i also espy and monitor the sediment build-up. dahil malinis naman ang tubig na pumupunta samin, we drain our sediment once a year, more often if our worker is inspired.

but if you can't,
i suggest you put the filter in "A", so as to protect your entire system from sediment.
my guess is, putting it in "A" is also easier.

[Walter]

Put in C ... that way if the main tank or pressure tank ever needs maintenance ... it can still filter out the sediments ... all it takes is a few tiny sediments to ruin your faucets and toilet fixtures ... also include the washing machine in the filtered system ...

[oj88]

Anyone using an inverter water pump? It's self-contained (pump, tank, electronics, etc.) and adjusts the pump speed in real time (and consequently, water pressure) depending on the demand.

I need it to boost pressure coming from a storage tank going to the faucets.

Pros and cons?

[Gumusut_Amige]

We've had problems with sediment buildup in our pipes and is affecting water flow and clogging up faucets, shower heaters, and toilets. All our pipes after the water meter are PVC, so the sediment is coming from the water supply (Maynilad), especially after a low water pressure incident.

As such, I 'think' I need some sort of basic sediment filtration to be installed somewhere in our house plumbing.

My questions are:
1. What type of filter do I need for this use case? Micron rating? Flow-rate rating? The less maintenance, the better. We will NOT use it to drink from.
2. Where is it typically installed, A, B, or C? (see diagram)

Something is wrong with the diagram.
The water supply going to the pressure tank should come from the side of the storage tank. The side elevation nozzle must be higher (around 4-8 inches) against the bottom of the storage tank to prevent sediment from being drawn in, if any is present. Water agitation from supply main shall be put into consideration during filling time. The bottom connection or lowest point nozzle can now be used as the drain and cleaning port.

[12vdc]

Alternatively you may use a Cistern tank instead of an overhead tank, it could work like a grease trap-this time the sediments remains on the bottom.

A regular Jetmatic with pressure tank has built-in pressure switch that maintains the output pressure in the storage, motor will run based on the pressure range that is set on the sensor. Another intake sensor can be installed to control/ protect the pump motor from running if there is no/or low water supply coming from the mains/tank.

[oj88]

Alternatively you may use a Cistern tank instead of an overhead tank, it could work like a grease trap-this time the sediments remains on the bottom.

A regular Jetmatic with pressure tank has built-in pressure switch that maintains the output pressure in the storage, motor will run based on the pressure range that is set on the sensor. Another intake sensor can be installed to control/ protect the pump motor from running if there is no/or low water supply coming from the mains/tank.

Something is wrong with the diagram.
The water supply going to the pressure tank should come from the side of the storage tank. The side elevation nozzle must be higher (around 4-8 inches) against the bottom of the storage tank to prevent sediment from being drawn in, if any is present. Water agitation from supply main shall be put into consideration during filling time. The bottom connection or lowest point nozzle can now be used as the drain and cleaning port.

The drawing is just for visualization. In reality, the bottom pipe (outlet) actually punches through about 2-3 inches higher than the bottom of the tank. There's also a separate drain pipe.

We were planning to use a traditional pressure tank (stainless, non-bladder) but I sort of stumbled upon the inverter pumps. On paper, I am liking the features: Quiet operation, low power consumption, WiFi control, etc. Not sure if all that is worth it in the long run, especially on reliability.

Products | Aqua Prime