True, add to that the stupid cost of EFBs needed for start-stop. Good thing you can install a regular battery and just switch off i-stop. EFBs are pointless if you don't use the feature.
Funny enough, CX-9s sold here are not equipped with i-stop . Could've done away with it for the rest of the lineup, but marketing right?
I also thought twas Marketing...Apparently not.... Ph doesn't get to dictate...did try though.[emoji852]
Bermaz was able to squeeze USDM CX9s coz those were really meant for that market..... & a limited supply of facelift GVC-equipped USDM CX3s as fillers. Their kodos are iStop-less.
We get the 3s, 6s, CX30s Jp makes for other LHD regions...Malaysian CX5s, too...all in production come w/ iStop. The basic difference between ours & europe's are the lower octane fuel tune & compression.
Marketing just spins the feature an advantage.....Well, why can't we just play along being Earth-friendly earthlings?[emoji4]
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Alam ko they have the same charging system. The differences is in the how the battery maintains durability despite partial state of charge.
The same reason siguro why we have to "top up" is because due to heavy loads, we tend to park our cars in a partial state of load, despite being a EFB, is still vulnerable to faster wear and tear...
That's kinda the way I understand it...
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it looks like that re-starting power of the engine during i-stop will be coming from the e-loop system charged by the alternator when slowing down. Battery will support the demands of the vehicle power during i-stop operation thus an EFB was required since the vehicle will use battery power even though the battery is not yet fully charged. based on my observation, i-stop activates in just a few minutes after starting the car even though the battery is not yet fully charged.
with this in mind, i simply turn off the i-stop upon starting the car.. also i'm not used to the engine turning off while in traffic.. i thought the car stalled and died on me.. hehe
As Walter said, blame it on Euro regulations & programs. (Look into how Suzuki has to pull the Jimny out of Europe.)
I did ask the same questions....about market-catering & cost-lowering. I got a production perspective answer....
Mazda is a pretty small player w/ limited production capacity. Retooling the line to serve stripped down specs of tiny markets like ours may only throw deliveries out of Japan off. Macro vs micro.
I recall the wait for the BM. It was long. Demand was high, delivery was limited...& they were serving standard. Imagine, had they served custom.
So, what is it we really want? Toyota gives us bare Ph spec'd units, we rant. We got served global spec'd kodos....we still complain. Haha.[emoji16]
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Thanks everyone. Will definitely look into the trickle charger.
I'm thinking about the Panasonic EFB battery. How much does it usually cost? If the Yuasa EFB directly from Mazda will cost 14,500, how much would the Panasonic be? However, I'm also thinking about using Motolite's battery as a temporary measure, since most shops are still closed. Their website recommended the Excel 1SM (the green one), but I'm guessing this isn't an EFB, correct?
I'm really just thinking of the worst case scenario since I need to be mobile in the event of an emergency. Any recommendations on where to get the Panasonic battery? Model number?
Here are my observations for the i-stop system..
I believe regular battery will also work.. charging systems are the same.
Setting the temp to 18 deg will make i -stop "not ready" given how hot our climate is.. also i observed that even if you set the temp to 18 deg.. the aircon compressor still cycles On and Off.. so dont worry setting it at 18 deg..its not like the regular toyota that controls cabin temp by turning off the compressor if it reaches the setting.. climate control mix hot and cold air to achieve desired temp! So if you feel that setting it to around 20 deg will save you fuel.. youre wrong coz the compressor still run to maintain cold air mixed with hot air
EFB requirement coz the system can trigger even if the battery is not yet fully charged which will make regular battery suffer. But if you set you aircon temp to 18 deg. I-stop trigger will take longer (at night it took more than 30 mins before i-stop lit green and during the day.. almost impossible) and your battery will have the chance to get full charge. Without aircon i-stop can be ready within 10 mins or less of driving
As observed.. i stop only triggers around 5 secs and the system restarts the engine.
Last edited by yapoy86; May 6th, 2020 at 10:53 AM.
My experience differs. I-stop is ready within 5 to 10 minutes even on a hot day. Lasts close to 2 minutes at night, daytime maybe a minute depending on outside temp and AC settings.
Mind you this was with an EFB that's close to 2 years old. I also read that i-stop lasts shorter the older the battery gets but personally didn't notice.
Guess I missed your 18c temp setting. Never really bothered going down that far, I just leave it on 23-24c with eco. More than enough for a summer noon imo.
Based on experience, AC compressors don't last as long at lowest thermostat vs leaving it at 24c and let the auto climate do the rest. I also prefer higher blower vs lower temp since blowers are much cheaper to replace.
Leaving it at 23 or 24 deg will not make your compressor last longer. For cars without climate control it will matter because the more you go higher the longer the compressor works.. but for cars with climate control the compressor will run to maintain cold air.. now if you set to say 23 deg, the system will just mix hot air to your air vents to achieve 23 deg..
As i have observed.. at 18 deg mazda compressor still turns off and on.. it may work harder at 24 deg coz your system is mixing hot air into the cabin..
You can observe this with your car.. you can feel the compressor disengaging even at 18deg