newbie: Where can I find a dyno test shop?

**niky** · July 14th, 2009 05:29 PM

It's worth it if you're doing a full stage I or a turbo set-up.

If it's just to test the effectivity of an intake or a set of headers, not very, unless you're the type who likes to know (I'm the same way).

Best is to test, install the modification on the spot, then retest on the same day. This makes the readings more consistent.

**lonelycivic** · July 14th, 2009 06:17 PM

[SIZE=2]To all who replied:

Many thanks!!!

Since I'm quite new to this, I'm amazed to know that you guys are ready to lend a hand.

Sorry if I sound like dimwit (please bear with me). I don't know if this is the right thread to start a new convo.

I'm planning to boost up my ride's HP, and I heard about doing the Stage 1. So that leads me to this query: what's included in Stage 1?

I have a Honda Civic VTI-S 02 A/T. I'm not sure if "performance upgrading" is suggested for A/T cars.

My apologies again if I'm posting a different topic here.

Thanks!

LonelyCivic

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**ghosthunter** · July 14th, 2009 06:36 PM

Typically stage 1 upgrade include intake and exhaust upgrades. Open element cone filter, short ram intake, headers, bigger exhaust pipes and freeflow muffler.

You can also advance the ignition timing by a few degrees (2 or so) to get more performance as well as using higher octane gasoline.

Gains would be minimal to slight. (Something like gains of 0 to 10hp max).

Improperly designed exhaust and intake can actually reduce HP or give no gains at all after spending all that money.

**s_quilicot** · July 14th, 2009 07:02 PM

Hindi ba masama if your using an energy conserving oil such as the 5w-30 RP and magpa dyno ka? I mean yung tipong hanggang redline? I noticed kasi na there's a burnt smell whenever i do pedal to the metal sa altis namin ng mga almost 30 sec.

**ghosthunter** · July 14th, 2009 07:18 PM

Originally Posted by s_quilicot

Hindi ba masama if your using an energy conserving oil such as the 5w-30 RP and magpa dyno ka? I mean yung tipong hanggang redline? I noticed kasi na there's a burnt smell whenever i do pedal to the metal sa altis namin ng mga almost 30 sec.

energy conserving motor oil = less friction protection motor oil

I wouldn't be using such light motor oil at all.

**s_quilicot** · July 14th, 2009 07:25 PM

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

energy conserving motor oil = less friction protection motor oil

I wouldn't be using such light motor oil at all.

GH, ano ba recommended oil viscosity for a N/A engine that is being driven hard minsan

Have tried RP's XPR?

**lonelycivic** · July 15th, 2009 11:04 AM

experts:

is it possible to "performance upgrade" my A/T ride? what are the pros and cons? and how is it compared to M/T rides?

sorry for posting multiple questions here. i'm really dead serious in boosting up my ride even though it's quite old (civic 02).

TIA!

LonelyCivic

**niky** · July 15th, 2009 01:38 PM

Actually, since this is the EP Civic, the engines are already distributorless. All ignition advance must be done via reprogramming.

That engine can take lighter oils. 5w30 should be okay... 0w30 if you're adventurous, but that's a bit too much for a street engine.

Your typical "Stage I" varies depending on whose opinion you're asking, but it's typically all bolt-ons... intake, headers, exhaust... sometimes camshafts and engine management... though some will consider those Stage II already.

The big issue is that after your basic intake and header modifications, any other changes made to the exhaust or intake will start to affect the shape of your powerband.

The header is basically free power, because of the restrictive nature of the catalytic converter you're removing... but even here, you will usually see higher end horsepower increase more than lower-end. And as you go further into modification, you will start to lose more low-end power as you gain more high-end power.

Not a big deal on manual cars... you just rev the engine higher and downshift to get at the power. On a 4-speed AT, though, improper modification can make it feel like a brick.

The only modifications that don't force you to make thesse trade-offs are the headers, intake and engine management. That's about enough for most people.

Oh, and a turbo. But a turbo with proper fuel management can cost you between 80-150,000 pesos... I don't know if you'll want to spend that much...

**1966GTV** · July 15th, 2009 02:27 PM

Originally Posted by lonelycivic

is it possible to "performance upgrade" my A/T ride? what are the pros and cons? and how is it compared to M/T rides?

Here is a bit of trivia....

The owner of Speedlab doesn't personally own any manual transmission vehicles. Never has, according to his interview in the PDI a few months ago.

I don't know if he has purchased an MT since the interview though.

**niky** · July 15th, 2009 06:22 PM

Which one? Sids? Sissy... doesn't like manuals... :hysterical: ...Ferman, the other guy (who also writes for TopGear Philippines as their tech guru), drives a manual Civic as his rallycross car.