newbie: Where can I find a dyno test shop?

[lonelycivic]

Hi All,

San po ba makakahanap ng shop na may dynamometer or dyno testing?

Thanks in advance!

LonelyCivic

[meledson]

Speedlab.

www.speedlab.com.ph

[lonelycivic]

Speedlab.

www.speedlab.com.ph

Thanks po sa reply!
Pahabol na question lang, may idea po ba kayo kung paano yung pricing nila?

TIA po ulit!

LonelyCivic

[meledson]

Mayroon silang for base line Dyno tapos kung tuning naman, mayroon din silang per hour. I am not sure kung nasa site nila ang details na ito.

[lonelycivic]

Thanks again!

Kita ko na sa site nila. Here's the detail:

Dyno Rates
Baseline - P2,500 Special Promo Rate P2,000*
Dyno Tuning - P5,000/hour Special Promo Rate P4,500/hour*

Cheers!

LonelyCivic

[ghosthunter]

Thanks po sa reply!
Pahabol na question lang, may idea po ba kayo kung paano yung pricing nila?

TIA po ulit!

LonelyCivic

Tuning session runs around P5K/hr... baseline is less than that.

[meledson]

Good luck. mukang mayroon kang matinding balakin. :D

[niky]

The prices for most shops are similar, there's Speedlab, Autoplus and Autotechnika (Fort Global City).

The question is: what purpose will this test serve?

If you're doing it as a baseline for measuring your mods against, then remember, every dyno afterwards should be on the same machine.

[lonelycivic]

The prices for most shops are similar, there's Speedlab, Autoplus and Autotechnika (Fort Global City).

The question is: what purpose will this test serve?

If you're doing it as a baseline for measuring your mods against, then remember, every dyno afterwards should be on the same machine.

Hi Niky!

Thanks for the reminder.

Recently I was asked to check my car before getting its performance modified. I'm not quite sure if this one's a friendly advice but since dyno testing is relatively cheap then I'll take my chance.

BUT, since you guys are already expert, may I ask if this is enough reason to do dyno?

Thanks!

LonelyCivic

[mda]

Hi Niky!

Thanks for the reminder.

Recently I was asked to check my car before getting its performance modified. I'm not quite sure if this one's a friendly advice but since dyno testing is relatively cheap then I'll take my chance.

BUT, since you guys are already expert, may I ask if this is enough reason to do dyno?

Thanks!

LonelyCivic

Depends what mods. Kung el cheapo intake mods lang siguro without then don't bother unless you're really itching to know. I google mo nalang yung engine for theoretical WHP and add the theoretical HP boosts to it (not accurate, pero libre!)

If you're throwing in the monster upgrades (I/H/E/piggyback then maybe & turbo), then sure by all means.

[niky]

It's worth it if you're doing a full stage I or a turbo set-up.

If it's just to test the effectivity of an intake or a set of headers, not very, unless you're the type who likes to know (I'm the same way).

Best is to test, install the modification on the spot, then retest on the same day. This makes the readings more consistent.

[lonelycivic]

[SIZE=2]To all who replied:

Many thanks!!!

Since I'm quite new to this, I'm amazed to know that you guys are ready to lend a hand.

Sorry if I sound like dimwit (please bear with me). I don't know if this is the right thread to start a new convo.

I'm planning to boost up my ride's HP, and I heard about doing the Stage 1. So that leads me to this query: what's included in Stage 1?

I have a Honda Civic VTI-S 02 A/T. I'm not sure if "performance upgrading" is suggested for A/T cars.

My apologies again if I'm posting a different topic here.

Thanks!

LonelyCivic[/SIZE]

[ghosthunter]

Typically stage 1 upgrade include intake and exhaust upgrades. Open element cone filter, short ram intake, headers, bigger exhaust pipes and freeflow muffler.

You can also advance the ignition timing by a few degrees (2 or so) to get more performance as well as using higher octane gasoline.

Gains would be minimal to slight. (Something like gains of 0 to 10hp max).

Improperly designed exhaust and intake can actually reduce HP or give no gains at all after spending all that money.

[s_quilicot]

Hindi ba masama if your using an energy conserving oil such as the 5w-30 RP and magpa dyno ka? I mean yung tipong hanggang redline? I noticed kasi na there's a burnt smell whenever i do pedal to the metal sa altis namin ng mga almost 30 sec.

[ghosthunter]

Hindi ba masama if your using an energy conserving oil such as the 5w-30 RP and magpa dyno ka? I mean yung tipong hanggang redline? I noticed kasi na there's a burnt smell whenever i do pedal to the metal sa altis namin ng mga almost 30 sec.

energy conserving motor oil = less friction protection motor oil

I wouldn't be using such light motor oil at all.

[s_quilicot]

energy conserving motor oil = less friction protection motor oil

I wouldn't be using such light motor oil at all.

GH, ano ba recommended oil viscosity for a N/A engine that is being driven hard minsan

Have tried RP's XPR?

[lonelycivic]

experts:

is it possible to "performance upgrade" my A/T ride? what are the pros and cons? and how is it compared to M/T rides?

sorry for posting multiple questions here. i'm really dead serious in boosting up my ride even though it's quite old (civic 02).

TIA!

LonelyCivic

[niky]

Actually, since this is the EP Civic, the engines are already distributorless. All ignition advance must be done via reprogramming.

That engine can take lighter oils. 5w30 should be okay... 0w30 if you're adventurous, but that's a bit too much for a street engine.

Your typical "Stage I" varies depending on whose opinion you're asking, but it's typically all bolt-ons... intake, headers, exhaust... sometimes camshafts and engine management... though some will consider those Stage II already.

The big issue is that after your basic intake and header modifications, any other changes made to the exhaust or intake will start to affect the shape of your powerband.

The header is basically free power, because of the restrictive nature of the catalytic converter you're removing... but even here, you will usually see higher end horsepower increase more than lower-end. And as you go further into modification, you will start to lose more low-end power as you gain more high-end power.

Not a big deal on manual cars... you just rev the engine higher and downshift to get at the power. On a 4-speed AT, though, improper modification can make it feel like a brick.

The only modifications that don't force you to make thesse trade-offs are the headers, intake and engine management. That's about enough for most people.

Oh, and a turbo. But a turbo with proper fuel management can cost you between 80-150,000 pesos... I don't know if you'll want to spend that much...

[1966GTV]

is it possible to "performance upgrade" my A/T ride? what are the pros and cons? and how is it compared to M/T rides?

Here is a bit of trivia....

The owner of Speedlab doesn't personally own any manual transmission vehicles. Never has, according to his interview in the PDI a few months ago.

I don't know if he has purchased an MT since the interview though.

[niky]

Which one? Sids? Sissy... doesn't like manuals... :hysterical: ...Ferman, the other guy (who also writes for TopGear Philippines as their tech guru), drives a manual Civic as his rallycross car.