Honda CVT transmission concerns, have you had any? How did the dealership handle it?

[Walter]

7) For my case, when replacing the battery, I specifically run the car first before the battery is removed so that all electronics are running off the alternator, avoiding any electronics to suffer a reset or "error" (just to be on the safe side). On my first battery replacement, I didn't know about the CVT might needing to be reset so I didn't start it before. So I did bring it to Honda to have it reset as I felt it was not "performing" the same (shifting wise) after my first battery change. Succeeding battery replacements, I made sure to start the cars (be it AT or CVT) after that happened, never had any issues after. If the battery is already dead, I have the new battery just connected to the old battery terminals so I can start the car when they are connected in series. Car starts, assuming no other issue is causing the "unable to start" issue.

Should avoid doing this on modern vehicle withs a lot of electronics ... One spike from the alternator and it might fry a lot of things ...

[17Sphynx17]

Should avoid doing this on modern vehicle withs a lot of electronics ... One spike from the alternator and it might fry a lot of things ...

Automotive Charging Systems - A Short Course on How They Work | CarParts.com

I would like some clarification on this specific topic then.

Documentations I have read always mention that alternators (I assume especially the current car designs) have regulators as all alternators run Alternating Current.

Now, there is a likelihood that the regulator "could fail". But even the documentation here says that if that is the case, lights on the dashboard would shop up indicating such an issue.

So, based on that, my understanding it, don't do it if your car is showing other issues and not just a "dead battery" that needs swapping out. Since current AT/CVT batteries are the maintenance free types, once signs of hard-starting are showing (meaning the car can still turnover) I usually buy new batteries already to change it out.

Thoughts?

EDIT:

1) please consider that all other electrical components are turned off when I'm doing the swap with the car running. A/C, Lights and radio/Head Unit are turned off. No revving of the car engine during the "swap" to a new battery
2) By doing #1, I am not introducing any unnecessary load to the electrical system during the swap. Just need to car to idle "low"
3) the car does not present any other issue when it was in use prior to the "Swap"
4) During the "swap", I will keep presence of mind to keep the battery terminals/wires (positive and negative) completely isolated and separate, and not contact with any other metallic component of the vehicle or tools that could cause a completion of the circuit (other than when they connect with the new battery)

[whiteb16a]

Automotive Charging Systems - A Short Course on How They Work | CarParts.com

I would like some clarification on this specific topic then.

Documentations I have read always mention that alternators (I assume especially the current car designs) have regulators as all alternators run Alternating Current.

Now, there is a likelihood that the regulator "could fail". But even the documentation here says that if that is the case, lights on the dashboard would shop up indicating such an issue.

So, based on that, my understanding it, don't do it if your car is showing other issues and not just a "dead battery" that needs swapping out. Since current AT/CVT batteries are the maintenance free types, once signs of hard-starting are showing (meaning the car can still turnover) I usually buy new batteries already to change it out.

Thoughts?

EDIT:

1) please consider that all other electrical components are turned off when I'm doing the swap with the car running. A/C, Lights and radio/Head Unit are turned off. No revving of the car engine during the "swap" to a new battery
2) By doing #1, I am not introducing any unnecessary load to the electrical system during the swap. Just need to car to idle "low"
3) the car does not present any other issue when it was in use prior to the "Swap"
4) During the "swap", I will keep presence of mind to keep the battery terminals/wires (positive and negative) completely isolated and separate, and not contact with any other metallic component of the vehicle or tools that could cause a completion of the circuit (other than when they connect with the new battery)

Voltage regulators do not output pure DC voltage/current. They can only do so much in converting AC to DC. Your battery as someone here said makes sure that pure DC is fed to your system electronics. Remember also that your ECU is powered electrically. Eventhough you are not turning electrical loads, directly feeding power from the alternator to your ECU without going through the battery may cause problems specially in modern cars. Just my two cents.

[yapoy86]

Voltage regulators do not output pure DC voltage/current. They can only do so much in converting AC to DC. Your battery as someone here said makes sure that pure DC is fed to your system electronics. Remember also that your ECU is powered electrically. Eventhough you are not turning electrical loads, directly feeding power from the alternator to your ECU without going through the battery may cause problems specially in modern cars. Just my two cents.

Conversion of AC to DC of the alternator is done by the rectifier composed of 4 diodes... the voltage regulator controls the DC output to maintain the voltage range not to exceed 14V along the RPM range.

But to be safe, better to turn it off and place a back up battery while replacing the old one..

[17Sphynx17]

During lunchtime been reading up.

There are 2 camps, but with more modern vehicles, yes. They do say just to avoid any issues altogether, don't do it. You could but "why risk it".

So, I guess I'll change the approach and try and see if I can use jumper cables when swapping out batteries instead.

Regarding the memory saver, there are also 2 camps. Most say it is okay while some say it could preserve error codes in the system as some cars do detect battery removal/disconnection. Not sure where I should stand on that department.

Lastly, it still stands, if you do disconnect your battery to change to a new one without doing anything else, go to have your computers reset and recalibrated to be sure everything is running or being run by the computers as it should be. =)

[bxr monkey]

Dati nagpa-deliver kami ng car battery for replacement. Iyong technician may dala din na extra 12V motorcycle-size battery. Kinabit niya muna itong small 12V battery in parallel, bago nag-palit ng battery.

Iwas reset daw.