Results 491 to 500 of 720
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March 11th, 2011 10:46 PM #491
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March 11th, 2011 11:29 PM #492
I drilled the plate not the car, as the holes are in the car already.
Much easier to drill the plate. Also, I find the holes in the center of the plate gives it less chance to rattle or vibrate if attached properly.
Nothing worse than a vibrating plate when you close your trunk or HB.
I customized an acrylic cover and used rubber foam tape behind the plate to stop it vibrating. Just finished it this afternoon.
Sorry about the pic...its dark outside eh
I will try and post a better pic tomorrow in daylight.
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March 12th, 2011 12:16 AM #493
Saludo!
All points well made as usual. Your rear plate "diskarte" will be a very good model for our bros yet to attach theirs.
I'm sure you've seen my "car drilling" rear plates. Somehow I felt two extra holes on the plates not justified enough. Holes on the car are concealed and I found no danger to it whatsoever.
Now that you mention it, the rear plates do rattle on my Honda and I should put in some rubber foam tape as well.
In my FoFi, I observe no rattle, but will put in foam tape for as an added measure.
When you post a new pic, can you not blur the second screw? I'm curious if it hit the numbers.
Our plates definitely are not designed to get holes in that particular location.Last edited by vivafoxpro; March 12th, 2011 at 12:19 AM.
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March 12th, 2011 01:40 AM #494
Where the screw drops depends on what number your last digit is. Mine is a 6 and the screw goes through the left side of the "circle" part of the 6.
Thing is, you really don't notice it once installed. You may notice it if the screw was half on the number and half on the white background, but I doubt it.
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March 12th, 2011 01:56 AM #495^^^ what plate cover is that? ok yan ah. where did you get it and what brand. how much na rin?
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March 12th, 2011 02:31 AM #496
Its made by "Welars". Supposed to be made in Australia. Cost P1600 for 2 pieces.
When I said "customized" I really meant it. The original cover fitment technique is supposed to be plastic plug screws that fit through holes in the sides of the acrylic cover. The plastic screws then go behind the plate holding the cover and plate together.
There are 4 problems with this.
1. The cover is not held to the plate solid enough for me.(may rattle/vibrate)
2. The cover is too "deep", covering access to the hatchbacks door button release.
3. The "deep" cover also blocks the light from the plate being illuminated at night.
4. The bodywork on the back of the hatchback has a slight curve, so the plate never "sits" right.
I attacked the cover with my "Dremmel" cutting tool, shortening the sides, and also cutting it to match the curve of the bodywork metal.
I dumped the plastic screws, attaching the cover to the plate by drilling 2 holes through the clear acrylic. This way, the screws hold the cover to plate, and both to the car, using the existing holes in the FoFi.
Foam rubber tape was then attached to the back of the license plate to make a solid fit.
I also made plastic spacers, between plate and cover, to make sure the clear acrylic does not crack when tightened up.
Its a lot of work, and not something you can buy off the shelf, but I feel it is all worth it when you see the pics tomorrow.
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March 12th, 2011 10:51 AM #497
Finally found my can of gray primer. I probably need heat-resistant paint for this pero pansamantala, I think the primer will do for this-
That's the steel rod which acts as a hanger for your muffler, btw. As you can see, it has already began to rust.
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March 12th, 2011 11:48 AM #499
Ang ganda. Pwede ba i-request sa casa na wag na butasan ang plates sa taas yung para sa likod?
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March 12th, 2011 12:13 PM #500
Puwede i try, 1. Palit air filter 2. Linis throttle body 3. Linis MAF sensor 4. Check spark...
high idle RPM at engine start