What to follow API or ACEA rating?

[crazy_boy]

caltex stations lang sir
P200/liter, P700/4 liter

mura lang pala.

P180 pesos na bili ko sa mono-grade. wala pang discount pag 4liters.

will try to check caltex stations as well.

[Djerms]

Many thanks for this sir. I am well aware of the viscosity ratings but I have to admit the API and ACEA ratings are kinda confusing. I am even confused at my manufacturer's rating requiring only CD even if my engine is a direct inject CRDI engine with EGR. I might just get the CH or CI rated oils next time.

Djerms – you are now very confused aren't you? To simplify things for the layman, you may look at the outline below:
1) Use your vehicle manual as the basic reference. It tells you the Viscosity rating and the API rating of the oil that you should use for your engine. In the Philippines, SAE 40 and SAE 50 are common. Btw, the higher SAE rating means that the oil is thicker at the operating temperature which is about 99 deg centigrade. SAE 50 is thicker than SAE 40, SAE 40 thicker than SAE 30.
2) The API rating tells you what quality level oil is suited for your engine. API rating of oils for gasoline engines start with an "S" to mean that these are intended for "spark ignition engines". If the manual says use API SF, then using lower grades like SE, SD, SC may damage the engine. But you may use SF grades or higher grades like SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM. (The higher the letter after the "S" means higher grades). The higher grades may be more expensive but they are formulated for more stringent operating conditions to protect your engine.
3) For diesel engines the oils formulated for them have API grades with a "C" before the letters indicating the quality level. For example, your manual may say API CF. The "C" stands for "Compression" ignition engines, meaning diesel engines. The higher the letter after the C, the higher the API grade. So, if your manual recommends API CF for your diesel engine, you may use API CF or higher grades like API CG, CJ, CL, etc. Again these higher letters are more expensive but they have more additives to protect your engine.
4) So the rule of thumb is to consult your vehicle manual and see what is recommended SAE and API ratings. Go exactly for what is recommended for SAE. In the Philippines, it is either SAE 40 or SAE 50. But for API, go for what is recommended or the higher API ratings (higher alphabet designation).
5) One thing you may notice is that some oils have API ratings with both the "C" and "S." For example an oil with an API SL/CF. This oil is formulated primarily for a gasoline (the SL comes first), but it can also be used for diesel (the CF comes after the SL). If used in a gasoline engine, this oil has an API grade of SL, and when used in a diesel engine, it meets the API rating of CF. On the other hand, you may see oils with API CF/SL. This oil is intended for a diesel engine with API CF, but it can also be used in a gasoline engine with a grade of API SL.
6) An oil such as SAE 10W-50 is a multigrade oil while an oil SAE 50 is a monograde oil. During cold temperatures monograde oils tend to be more viscous than the multigrade oils and therefore engines using monogrades are more difficult to start. To be sure, use multigrade oil with the proper SAE rating and API rating.

I hope this helps a little.

[crazy_boy]

Many thanks for this sir. I am well aware of the viscosity ratings but I have to admit the API and ACEA ratings are kinda confusing. I am even confused at my manufacturer's rating requiring only CD even if my engine is a direct inject CRDI engine with EGR. I might just get the CH or CI rated oils next time.

i suggest get something that can be used with euro2/with egr engines. as using a lower type of oil might foul your egr.

i've been using top1 SDO in my pajero fieldmaster and so far good results. noticeably less smoke talaga. at 270 pesos per liter, i would say that this is cheap na.

[Djerms]

Where do you get your top 1 SDO oil sir? Is this a fully synthetic oil or semi? Im thinking now of getting Royal purple fully synthetic oil for my strada.

[miked]

4) So the rule of thumb is to consult your vehicle manual and see what is recommended SAE and API ratings. Go exactly for what is recommended for SAE. In the Philippines, it is either SAE 40 or SAE 50. But for API, go for what is recommended or the higher API ratings (higher alphabet designation).

IMO, SAE 50 oil is i think too high a viscosity. SAE 40 is more than enough i think. as per the common guides, SAE 40 satisfactorily meets Philippine conditions.

Simply said, 4 things to look at:
1. Viscosity
2. API rating
3. Blend (mineral, synth)
4. preferred brand (synonymous to your budget)

[vhronx]

Sir Ry_tower, where do you get the supply of Top 1 SDO? Whats the rating?

Thanks

A TOP1 SDO user for my 2010 Strada GLS. I have used it for my 5K PMS and will still be using it for my upcoming 10k PMS. A satisfied user.

Try to email this address: info*top1oil.com.ph You can ask where are their distributors near you.

You can look for them * FB "TOP 1 OIL PHILIPPINES".

[crazy_boy]

Where do you get your top 1 SDO oil sir? Is this a fully synthetic oil or semi? Im thinking now of getting Royal purple fully synthetic oil for my strada.

its semi-syn. i change oil naman every 5k km/6 months. they have it na everywhere. Banawe, Masangkay, Blumenttrit.

pinkamura blumenttrit * 270 pesos per quart.

most expensive is 300 pesos per quart. Banawe price. didnt haggle anymore becuase i only bought 1 quart that time.

other stores would remove the barcode pa. may 10 pesos rebate hehe dont know the logic for this.

as for royal purple, im not sure of the API rating will be sufficient for vehicles with EGR, so i couldnt comment.

[SiRbossR]

hmmm. I would like to try TOP1. Heard a lot of good feed backs from users.

[asher25]

check niyo rin yung MAG1 na oil

[Vodka]

in 2024...

suppose you got an old fashioned engine i.e. no turbo, no DI

would you rather get an oil rated w/ the latest api SP (with no acea rating)

or an older api SN but with acea a3/b4 rating

[Ry_Tower]

in 2024...

suppose you got an old fashioned engine i.e. no turbo, no DI

would you rather get an oil rated w/ the latest api SP (with no acea rating)

or an older api SN but with acea a3/b4 rating

I'd get the older spec engine oil. Old engine requires old oil qualities. Resource conserving or energy conserving oils might not be good for those old fashioned engine.

I'd only get the newer spec oil if it is backwards compatible.

[Vodka]

I'd get the older spec engine oil. Old engine requires old oil qualities. Resource conserving or energy conserving oils might not be good for those old fashioned engine.

I'd only get the newer spec oil if it is backwards compatible.

check out the lubrizol comparison tool:



actually my engines are compatible with "fuel economy" low HTHS oils like a5/b5

but for wear protection, SP is an improvement over SN. but a3/b4 is still better.

[Ry_Tower]

check out the lubrizol comparison tool:



actually my engines are compatible with "fuel economy" low HTHS oils like a5/b5

but for wear protection, SP is an improvement over SN. but a3/b4 is still better.

My car requires at least a5/b5 as well. I'm mulling whether to use an a3/4 engine oil as well hehe

[baludoy]

anong ok para sa mga good old b20 engine?

[dr. d]

anong ok para sa mga good old b20 engine?

,,, ang walang kamatayang sae 40 ?
heh heh.

[Vodka]

anong ok para sa mga good old b20 engine?

mb229.81. just kidding

but wow, almost all stats maxed out

[baludoy]

^ so no fancy highfalutin sounding oil maker name required Pala 😅

[Vodka]

^ so no fancy highfalutin sounding oil maker name required Pala 😅

engine oil is just base oil plus additives, and the additives are made by just FOUR companies (all reputable). so in a perfect world any oil that passes certification should be good. but would you really wanna be using oil from brands you've never heard of e.g. oscar, samic, etc 😅

[oj88]

engine oil is just base oil plus additives, and the additives are made by just FOUR companies (all reputable). so in a perfect world any oil that passes certification should be good. but would you really wanna be using oil from brands you've never heard of e.g. oscar, samic, etc 😅

Worldwide, there are at least 19 or more who makes lubricant additives. I believe that the four you're referring to are just the ones used by the top US-branded lubricants.



From The Motor Oil Geek channel.. context is again, the US:


As an example, I would think that oil manufacturers like Liqui-Moly would rather be working with German additive manufacturers like BASF or Evonik.

[Dr.Kamiya]

mb229.81. just kidding

but wow, almost all stats maxed out

Not as good as the old API SP for LSPI though, which is important for old-school turbocharged engines.

Wear/sludge/deposits can all be solved by changing the oil regularly.

The new stuff seems good for newer economy-focused engines run on an extended oil-change cycle.