Remote bypass oil filtration

[zix888]

Just got my mobil 1 turbo diesel truck, now 450 *trading post , 2nd floor of cash and carry

[Ry_Tower]

Just got my mobil 1 turbo diesel truck, now 450 *trading post , 2nd floor of cash and carry

P10 price hike ah. hehe

[zix888]

P10 price hike ah. hehe

Yup you are correct! I saw some mobil 1 15w-50 fully syn, is it also good? In case these tdt ran out?

[Ry_Tower]

Yup you are correct! I saw some mobil 1 15w-50 fully syn, is it also good? In case these tdt ran out?

Mobil 1 15W-50 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil

API rated only as CF plus its rated SN which is not ideal for diesel per se, maybe better off using Mobil Delvac MX 15w40 or Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 instead if meron sila sa Trading post.

MOBIL DELVAC 1 5W-40
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt * 40ºC 102
cSt * 100ºC 14.8
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 151
Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.35
Total Base #, mg KOH/g, ASTM D 2896 12
Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -45
Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92 226
Density * 15ºC kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.854


Moreso from 2 threads i've read they stopped making this already.

mobil 1 synthetic 15w 50 silver cap auto oil - Bob Is The Oil Guy

[miked]

^in contrary, API CF is rated for use with diesel fuels having greater than 0.5% ppm sulfur. higher than CF are those oils for use with fuels lesser than 0.5% ppm sulfur. not that i'm against those high ratings with regards to API ratings (actually, i've been a user of CI-4 delo gold multigrade). what i'm saying is if you use API rated oils higher than CF, you have to change your oil more often than when you are using CF. by the way, i dropped my pan for the first time and i'm really surprised with the internal condition. no sticky gunk on the pan as well as on the sides of the block. well, thanks to delo of course. found only bits of silicone sealant at the pump screen and on the pan as well. i filled her up again with valvoline CF-4 15w-40.

[zix888]

Mobil 1 15W-50 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil

API rated only as CF plus its rated SN which is not ideal for diesel per se, maybe better off using Mobil Delvac MX 15w40 or Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 instead if meron sila sa Trading post.

MOBIL DELVAC 1 5W-40
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt * 40ºC 102
cSt * 100ºC 14.8
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 151
Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.35
Total Base #, mg KOH/g, ASTM D 2896 12
Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -45
Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92 226
Density * 15ºC kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.854


Moreso from 2 threads i've read they stopped making this already.

mobil 1 synthetic 15w 50 silver cap auto oil - Bob Is The Oil Guy

Alright thanks for the info sir Ry_Tower

[jodyola13]

Yup you are correct! I saw some mobil 1 15w-50 fully syn, is it also good? In case these tdt ran out?

Sir bought mine at Shopper's Delight, 2nd floor also at Cash&Carry, 440 per quart and yes madami sila stocks ng engine oils there like Top1 and different grades of Mobil 1's, all made in USA

[sirkosero]

hey doc, do you know the technical specs of mobil1000? it readily available is it a good dino juice?

[dvldoc]

hey doc, do you know the technical specs of mobil1000? it readily available is it a good dino juice?

It's no better and no worse than a oil of the same API rating that is group II oil.


Mobil Super 1000

Here is a good listing I found which breaks down oils brands with what group of oil they are ie. Group II, III, IV or V.


Auto-Rx (Philippines) | About Oil

[dvldoc]

hey doc, do you know the technical specs of mobil1000? it readily available is it a good dino juice?

It's no better and no worse than a Group II oil with the same API rating. Not a big fan of Group II as it has a lower TBN and will have to be replaced sooner. You would be better off with a group III oil.

Here's a good listing of some oils there with the groups types.

Auto-Rx (Philippines) | About Oil

[zix888]

As promised, here is my bd28(5000kms , oil on its 10000kms)

[dvldoc]

Filter held up like a champ, Oil is still pretty black but that's mainly from soot, The lower quality fuel there makes it hard to keep that from happening besides soot particles are down in the sub 10 micron range.

What are you using to cut your filters, that's a pretty clean cut.

[zix888]

Filter held up like a champ, Oil is still pretty black but that's mainly from soot, The lower quality fuel there makes it hard to keep that from happening besides soot particles are down in the sub 10 micron range.

What are you using to cut your filters, that's a pretty clean cut.

So should i use these filters for 10000kms? Or just 5000kms? I just cut those filters manually sir(saw). Thanks so much, we really need your expertise on this

[HardCharger]

According to dvldoc, you can use these filter for up to 12,000 KMs per oil change using a good quality oil. So you change every 12,000 KMs together with your oil, am I correct Doc?

[zix888]

According to dvldoc, you can use these filter for up to 12,000 KMs per oil change using a good quality oil. So you change every 12,000 KMs together with your oil, am I correct Doc?

Yup that's what doc mentioned before. I just wanted to show him the actual condition of the filter after 5000kms, because the oil is really black after 5000kms on these engines(4d56)

[vyn300d]

Thanks dvldoc. But is it ok to shift from 15w40 to 5w40 for a 4m41 engine?

[Ry_Tower]

Thanks dvldoc. But is it ok to shift from 15w40 to 5w40 for a 4m41 engine?

I you read the thread, not much problem with the 2 since we are talking about the weather here in the philippines and the w40 is whats important. No problem for that.

[vyn300d]

I you read the thread, not much problem with the 2 since we are talking about the weather here in the philippines and the w40 is whats important. No problem for that.

thanks ry. do you own a gen 3 pajero as well?

[Ry_Tower]

thanks ry. do you own a gen 3 pajero as well?

Nope, gen 2.

[Quint]

I've been doing some reading on the subject, and given that these are based on empirical evidence, it does makes sense. Believe it, or not.
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STOP STOP STOP!

The ORIGINAL factory APPROVED oil change interval is 30,000 miles! YES 30,000 MILES!!

Did you comprehend that?

THE ORIGINAL OIL CHANGE INTERVAL APPROVAL IS 30,000 MILES!!!

Now that I have that off my chest,

VW reduced the interval from 30,000 miles to 10,000 miles in the US market...any guesses why?

Because people like you either:
1) Can't read the owners manual
2) Don't trust the car makers
3) Can't follow directions
4) Fail to adhere to the service indicator in the car

VW does NOT want oil change intervals of less than 10,000 miles due to how the oils function in the engine, shorter intervals INCREASE WEAR, Don't argue with me about it, if you take the time to track wear rates during an oil change at 250 mile intervals you can plot the reduction and stabilization of the wear rates out beyond 25,000 miles!

Think of oil as having 2 types of wear reducing additives, the first provides protection by/thru detergancy (cleansing of internal surfaces), dispersing soot, neutralizing acids (not an issue now with ULSD), and several other types as well. These additives are generally very specific to diesel engines and must pass specific tests in VW Diesel engines.

The next type of additive is a wear additive. These protect the engine where the thickness of oil may be too thin to prevent metal to metal contact. Other additves in this type range also provide protection to the cam and lifters, engine bearings, piston wrist pins etc.

Now pay attention, the 2nd group of additives account for less than 3% of the total volume of the oil. These additives also account for 90% of the engines oil protection! These additives require heat and pressure to bond with the critical wear surfaces, but due to the low percentage of additive in the oil they require time to fully place on those surfaces by the pressures of the component they are protecting. Example, an engine at operating temperature at the point where the cam presses on the lifter generates in excess of 90,000 psi, that pressure and the heat of the engine causes the 3% portion of the 1 micron thick oil film to form a crust or sacrifical layer at the point of contact. Since only 3% of the oil contains the wear additives, it requires hundreds of thousands of passes to generate a sufficient film to stop the wear at this specific point in the engine.

Everybody is quick to make the arguement that the old oil had these additives so they are already in place, right? not quite!

Remember the first type of additive? In that 1st group you had "detergents" that cleanse the inside of the motor. These cleansers are used up very rapidly after an oil change since they attack the remaining oil that was left after the oil change. These cleansers if you will also reduce the effectiveness of the high pressure wear additives...See where this is going?

Before explaining further, after that initial period the dispersants in the oil work to prevent the adhering of the particles in the oil to any of the internal surfaces. These additives are often unique to diesel engines are also the reason why the oil looks so black so quickly, they are doing their job by preventing the soot from building up in any one place instead they are dispersed in the oil evenly throughout the oil sump which prevents sludging and other contamination related issues.

Back to the detergents and the high pressure additives, the layers of high pressure additives leftover are not being replenished after the oil change due to the cleaning process that is going on with the new oil to neutralize the remaining acids, and other contaminants in the engine. As the cleaners in the oil are used up in the first 500-1000 miles, the wear additives are able to re-generate a protective layer in the engine that stops the wear at that location.

You break down the oils life cycle like this:

Phase 1: Detergants attack the internals removing accumlated contaminants, neutralize acids and force those into suspenstion in the oil. This period of time lasts between 500-1000 miles

Phase 2: During the first 1000 miles the oils viscosity provides the majority of the wear protection by virtue of the film it creates on the surfaces. This phase generates relatively high wear rates but due to the short duration this is accepted due to the removal of contaminants that could result in long term damage to the motor. Wear rates in the period of time are generally speaking 5-10ppm per 1000 miles.

Phase 3: Detergents are now used up and the oil additives are forming their protective layers in the "extreme pressure" regions of the motor. Now the oil additives are working in conjunction with the oil film and the wear rates drop from 10ppm per 1000 miles to around 1-2ppm per 1000 miles.

Phase 4: Longterm peace! The oil is operating in a period of equilibrium, the wear additives are placed, Oil viscosity is in perfect range for the engine, Dispersants are continually working to prevent soot and other contaminants from accumulating on the surfaces and wear rates remain between 1-3ppm per 1000 miles.

Phase 5: Oil run out, the oil during this phase begins to increase in viscosity (or thin in some cases), Extreme pressure additives begin to lose effectiveness due to increased concentrations of wear particles (VW tests out to 8%, most oil changes never see in excess of 2% after 30,000 miles). This is when you begin to see a rise in the wear metal formation in the engine. Often wear metals during this phase rise to the 3-8ppm per 1000 mile range. Notice that the wear metals being generated are still LOWER than they were in the first 1000 miles?

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When somebody says they are going to change the oil every 5000 miles or twice as often they are DOUBLING the number of detergent cycles and DOUBLING the number of cycles where the engine is running at it's highest wear rates!

PPM/Fe (generation of Fe in 1000 mile increments)
Short drain intervals
1K oil change
10ppm = 10ppm in 1000 miles = 10ppm/1000 miles

3K oil change
10+2+2 = 14ppm in 3000 miles = 4.6ppm/1000 miles

5K oil change
10+2+2+2+2: Change oil = 18ppm in 5000 miles = 3.6ppm/1000 miles

Long drain intervals
10K oil change
10+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+3 = 29 ppm in 10,000 miles = 2.9ppm/1000 miles

15K oil change
10+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+3+3+3+3+3+3 = 44ppm in 15,000 miles = 2.9 ppm/1000 miles

20K oil change
10+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+3+3+3+3+3+3+3+3+3+4+4 = 61ppm in 20,000 miles = 3.3ppm/1000 miles

When ppm of Fe per 1000 miles reaches 5-7ppm per 1000 miles you can consider the oil ready for a change...

The above is based on real world TDI oil samples.

I have personally used up to 25,000 mile oil drain intervals on my TDI and still never reached the 5-7ppm range! I changed it at that time due to soot and TBN depletion (high sulfur fuel at the time).

Anybody that tells you that short oil drain intervals are good for your motor don't know what they are talking about!

Source: superturbodiesel.com - tuning performance turbo diesel mercedes, W123, W116 and up. OM617, OM60X