Results 1,651 to 1,660 of 3899
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March 28th, 2012 10:57 AM #1651
If you have a android phone this is a very useful app to verify a filter if you know the specs. Luberfiner is the only one that has something like this. I like it a lot.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...YmVyZmluZXIiXQ..
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March 28th, 2012 10:57 AM #1652
Sagutin ko na, PSI difference should be around 6-7 difference only so pasok yung B161-S but not the other one.
Pre baka puwede na rin pasama pabili ng B7095. P600 quote sa akin ng volmax at baka taasan sayo eh hehe.
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/printt...00&type=thread
http://tsikot.com/forums/engine-fuel...9/index60.htmlFasten your seatbelt! Or else...Driven To Thrill!
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March 28th, 2012 11:17 AM #1653
the longer version Doc which is
B161-S (20 PSI relief valve)
B199 (9 PSI relief valve)
Do PSID matters? what is more prudent to use a higher PSID or lower PSID Doc?
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March 28th, 2012 11:46 AM #1654
BPV psi setting range from filter to filter by as much as 5 to 10 psi. I like to stay in the 5psi range. But it's not like your really going to clog a Baldwin.
But here is a better explanation.
First you need to understand why the bypass valve is there. Under *ideal* conditions, the bypass valve will *never* open. Because, when it opens, the oil *by passes* the filter and goes on through to the motor, obviously unfiltered. It is a safety valve. However, in *real* operation, it opens often.
One example is when you start the motor when cold. The oil is thick and does not pass easily through the filtration medium, thus building up to a high pressure drop. So, the bypass valve opens to prevent oil-starvation of the motor. How long it stays open is dependent on how cold the oil is and how long it takes to get near operating temperature. When the pressure drop across the filtration medium drops below the bypass valve setting, then the bypass closes. Blipping the throttle while warming up is a good way to get the valve to open and send unfiltered oil to the motor. A steady warm-up rpm is probably a lot better.
Another example can occur when the motor is fully warmed. At idle, the oil pressure is about 15 to 20 psi, and the pressure drop across the filter is about 1 or 2 psi. You take off towards the redline, and quickly build oil pressure to the 70 to 80 psi range. During that full-throttle acceleration the pressure drop across the filter will exceed the bypass setting, and send unfiltered oil to the motor, until the pressure across the filter has time to equalize. During a drag race, shifting through the gears, the bypass will open several times.
A third example, which you should never experience with frequent oil and filter changes, is when a filter becomes clogged. A spin-on filter can commonly hold 10 to 20 grams of trash before it becomes fully clogged. The bypass valve opening is the only way to keep the motor from becoming oil-starved if the filter becomes clogged.
According to Purolator, the Honda OEM filter bypass setting is 12 to 14 psi, and that is how they build their motorcycle oil filter. WIX (NAPA Gold) builds their motorcycle and automobile oil filters with a bypass setting of 8 to 11 psi, while AC Delco builds theirs to a setting of 11 to 17 psi. How much do these differences matter? I don't think anyone knows, even the engineers, and each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.
If you do lots of racing, you're probably better off with a higher bypass setting.
If you do lots of *cold* starting, especially in the winter, or seldom change your filter, I think you're better off with a lower bypass setting. However, with few exceptions, bypass pressures for spin-on filters run in the 8 to 17 psi range, and any of them should work acceptably.
I would go with the one that is closer to stock which is around 14psi. But go for the higher end because you don't want it going into bypass all the time if you drive hard. The cold start thing really does not apply to the weather in the Philippines.Last edited by dvldoc; March 28th, 2012 at 11:49 AM.
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March 28th, 2012 09:07 PM #1658
sir Ry_Tower Pm kita regarding request mo... Bro are you from palawan... taga palawan din kasi ako... nice to know meh ka tsikot ako from my province.. hehe
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March 29th, 2012 12:25 PM #1660
Saw the locally available LUBERFINER sold at W&L trading... i didn't bought a single one... the quality is so poor... it looks like old stock and i don't know if its the real one.. between VIc and luberfiner i think your better off with vic.
-no logo of luberfiner on the filter body(just says made in USA and some sort of writing)
-very dirty inside, i can see parts of the filter in the inside which has corrosion and metal filings
-sticker of luberfiner only on box
- not very good gasket placement
- its no where near the pictures of the filters posted at luberfiner website..
-the luberfiner filter locally sourced is no where near baldwin's and fleetguard's appearance and construction.
Because pinoy mentality. Not surprising.
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