Diesel engine cars vs gas engine cars. Newbie po

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thanks sa replies mga bro! worry ko lang kasi at nakalimutan ko rin i-add, may mga rare occassions na bago umuwi eh kumakain saglit sa tapsihan near our apartment. so off ang engine for 30-45 minutes tapos .3km na travel then off ulit. ang alala ko lang yun nababasa ko na masama ito sa engine.

thanks sa replies mga bro! worry ko lang kasi at nakalimutan ko rin i-add, may mga rare occassions na bago umuwi eh kumakain saglit sa tapsihan near our apartment. so off ang engine for 30-45 minutes tapos .3km na travel then off ulit. ang alala ko lang yun nababasa ko na masama ito sa engine.

Ang masama po sa Engine Sir ninjababez,

from the cold start, then takbo agad, maraming sisirain na internal components sa engine, saka during cold start, yung oil pressure, will circulate sa piston and magiging normal na pag umabot sa normal temp range na naka-indicate sa dashboard.

kung cold start, hindi nga pinapatatakbo, pero by means of revving para uminit, masama din sa engine.

pag dating sa cold startup, let the engine idle, sa gasoline engine naman, mga less than 5mins, normal temp, pero sa diesel naman, a bit long (sa montero namin, inaabot ng 30mins para mag normal temp), with all accessories off, including yung A/C.

then once na nasa normal temp na, pwede na for normal and high speed drive

kung nagamit naman yung sasakyan, kahit naka-rest ng 30-45mins, mainit pa yan, saka yan ang period na mainit ang makina dahil wala nang circulation from cooling system ng engine (radiator/coolant)

kahit tumakbo pa yan ng 300meters, no problem at all, pero kung galing naman sa cold start, napatakbo na after warm up, rest period, at umabot ulit sa C, no choice pero i-idle ulit, at once na lumagpas na sa C range, pwede na itakbo, pero check mo rin yung exhaust, kung mainit na yung buga, wala kasing exhaust gas temp. na gauge sa mga sasakyan, pero pwede bumili ng ganitong accessory.

Kung frequent short trip ang gamit ng sasakyan, kung PMS, instead of KMS ang susundin, sa month schedule ang susundin,

30-45 minutes is not enough time for the engine to get ice cold. May init pa sa coolant at engine oil kung ganyan lang, and there's still a good coat of lubrication on the engine internals, as it hasn't all dripped back down into the oil pan, yet. I wouldn't worry about it. That isn't a "cold" cold start. Starting in the morning... that's a "cold start"... with the oil cold and heavy and sitting in the bottom of the sump.

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Typically short trips ARE bad for the engine... but as long as you adjust your oil change schedule to suit, it shouldn't be too much of a bother. As most local dealers force you into what Americans and Europeans would consider an "Extreme" service interval, anyway, you won't see any problems over 100,000 kilometers with a modern oil.

But going out on longer trips once a week or every other week, to clear out the engine on the highway, helps.



The advice against short trips is not an invention of the fertile imagination of writers, but from the manufacturers, mechanics and engineers. Short trips mean more cold starts, more moisture condensation in the oil, a greater possibility of fuel dilution in the oil, EGR build-up, etcetera.

This is why, when buying secondhand, it's not always absolute mileage that counts, but where that mileage was accrued. I would rather buy a 100,000 kilometer secondhand that was used for long trips in the province than a 100,000 kilometer secondhand that's sat in Manila traffic all that time. The "promdi" car will be in much, much better condition... and it's likely that thanks to all that highway running, the engine will be better broken in, and will make more power.

If you only keep your car three to five years... no worries. But if you're a practical person and keep it for 10 years or 200,000kms or more, paying attention to oil condition and running conditions pays in the long run.

Saves you money, too.

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RE: Warranties: Other countries offer longer warranties because they have less traffic. I've posted this here before, but even in cities with the worst traffic in the US, their average speeds are two to four times as fast as the EDSA rush hour average, and many Americans drive almost purely on the highway, where you can make a car go over half-a-million kilometers with little worry.

Agree for that Sir niky,

Depende sa usage ng sasakyan, kung normal, severe, at extreme & abuse.

Normal, pwede i-stretch out up to 10,000KMS for PMS
kung severe lalo kung highway driving at umaabot ng 120KPH ang takbo, 5000KMS PMS
pero kung extreme at abuse usage, like low speed, extreme idling, purely city driving at yung ibang sasakyan lalo na yung mga PUV's halos wala nang rest period ang makina, one month mandatory change oil, or the exact month schedule, kung extreme.

Another thing to note about PMS is that its not just about the oil change. Sure we can negotiate with the casa not change the oil yet, especially when using fully synthetics, however, there are other maintenance items that needs to be inspected/serviced.

Sir fireice2,

Agree for that, hindi lang po makina ang primary checklist for maintenance, andyan din ang ibang parts/component na critical at very important na dapat i-maintain for regular PMS.

A way of checking if your engine has reached the optimum operating temp, lalo na if you do frequent short trips, is to check the tailpipe. If you see water droplets dripping out, malamig pa makina mo (at least that was what my Dad told me). I guess that is why frequent short trips are bad for the engine, too much moisture condensation.

In addition po Sir bloowolf,

Maliban sa temp gauge indicated, kung merong certain accessory for exhaust gas temp. malaking tulong din, kung wala naman, checking the exhaust kung mainit na yung buga, about naman sa water from exhaust, very normal talaga, yung moisture, lalo pag malamig ang panahon, ang ginagawa ko lang, once nasa normal temp na, revved ko po ang makina para ma-alis yung water moisture, or drive it normally. yan din kasi ang isa sa dahilan ng exhaust manifold corrosion

[ninjababez]

napansin ko at ng ibang swift users na nasa gitna lagi ang temp. baka yun yung optimal temp nya, ganun ba yun? (never naman sya tumaas kahit sa long driver * 80-160kph na takbo, or 3 hour traffic jam)

[ninjababez]

thanks for the detailed advice bro niky. will just follow normal pms sked nalang, as 50% of the time ill be driving in edsa/c5 rush hour traffic jam. planning to keep this car for more than 5 years, mahirap na

[fireice2]

Another thing to note about PMS is that its not just about the oil change. Sure we can negotiate with the casa not change the oil yet, especially when using fully synthetics, however, there are other maintenance items that needs to be inspected/serviced.

[ninjababez]

at the parking lot earlier mga 3 minutes na nasa 1/4 palang, umalis nako kasi sama pakiramdam ko. ang tagal naman pala mag intay

[playplugg]

at the parking lot earlier mga 3 minutes na nasa 1/4 palang, umalis nako kasi sama pakiramdam ko. ang tagal naman pala mag intay

Gasoline fed po ba ang sasakyan nyo Sir ninjababez?!

Kung 3mins for gasoline fed vehicle, ok na po yan, safe na at kahit hindi paabutin sa normal range, pwede na itakbo dahil mas madali mag-warm up ang gasoline, unlike sa diesel, mas mahabang pasensya ang kailangan, kung confined area, iwasan po na mag stay sa area lalo sa rear area, dahil sa carbon monoxide, safe distance enough para i-monitor ang sasakyan, both security and safety.

As much as possible, kung confined area, hanap po kayo ng area na merong ventilation, at mataas na area dapat, kung sa basement parking naman, lagpas lang sa C area, then drive smoothly, mas matindi ang emission at inhalation ng carbon monoxide dahil kulob ang area

[jaggerx3]

Sa Vios ko pag nawala na yung blue light ng temperature i go na. Pero alalay na takbo lang di hataw since medyo slow moving mga sasakyan pag labas sa main road namin.
Sa Grand Starex ko naman after a minute go na ako. Pero alalay lang until it reaches the normal operating temparature

[bloowolf]

Up ko lang. Attached is an interesting reference for trouble shooting diesel turbo problems
Garrett Turbocharger Troubleshooting Guide | Turbobygarrett

[bboyukoy]

Question po. I'm planning to buy 2nd hand na Ford Focus 2007 2.0 diesel. When I asked a mechanic, he said na iwas sa diesel cars kasi not good ang cooling system because maliit yung engine area so not much air and di elevated unlike pick-up and SUV. Additionally, city driving with bad traffic condition yung location ko. Pag umuwi ako ng gabi, 15 mins travel lang from office to house. Pag house to office during daytime, 30-40 mins tapos 2nd to 3rd gear lagi. Di ba advisable yung diesel hatch if ganito?

[jut703]

Question po. I'm planning to buy 2nd hand na Ford Focus 2007 2.0 diesel. When I asked a mechanic, he said na iwas sa diesel cars kasi not good ang cooling system because maliit yung engine area so not much air and di elevated unlike pick-up and SUV. Additionally, city driving with bad traffic condition yung location ko. Pag umuwi ako ng gabi, 15 mins travel lang from office to house. Pag house to office during daytime, 30-40 mins tapos 2nd to 3rd gear lagi. Di ba advisable yung diesel hatch if ganito?

There's nothing wrong with the Focus diesel per se. In fact, it's a very fast and very frugal car. As long as you get a well-maintained unit, you should not have any problems with the engine.

What you have to look out for is the transmission of the dual-clutch (automatic) Focus TDCi. Many cases have been reported of premature failure because of the stop and go traffic in Manila which is the biggest weakness of the Focus' transmission.

Earlier models (2006-2007) came with a manual transmission which is more durable and less problematic. If you don't mind driving stick, that's a safer option.

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[Janemar]

Question po. I'm planning to buy 2nd hand na Ford Focus 2007 2.0 diesel. When I asked a mechanic, he said na iwas sa diesel cars kasi not good ang cooling system because maliit yung engine area so not much air and di elevated unlike pick-up and SUV. Additionally, city driving with bad traffic condition yung location ko. Pag umuwi ako ng gabi, 15 mins travel lang from office to house. Pag house to office during daytime, 30-40 mins tapos 2nd to 3rd gear lagi. Di ba advisable yung diesel hatch if ganito?

Natrauma ata nung kabataan nya sa diesel na oto ung mechanic na nagsabi sayo nyan.. Hehe..
Anyway,
Di naman po problematic cooling system nitong model na ito. Basta alaga lang cooling system, alang kalawang at okay ang thermostat and tama level at walang leak. No problem sa overheat kahit hatawin mo pa maghapon sa racetrack.

Manual po ba itong prospect buy nyo? Ang sakit ng model na ito is ung mahal na parts especially ung pagpapalit ng clutch assy. at dual mass flywheel. Budget ka duon ng 80k for parts and labor. So kung nasa 150++ na mileage ng kukunin mo at di pa ito napapalitan, pede mo pa tawaran or mag ipon ka na sama mo na pang timing belt. Rare din minsan parts, example, di ka makakabile ng inner CV joint bearing. Isang buong CV joint benta which is around 20k isa ata. Kahit battery is ibang klase din. Pero meron namang motolite. 7k.

Overall matibay naman engine at matipid din at malakas pa sa hatawan.

[MR_BIG18]

Natrauma ata nung kabataan nya sa diesel na oto ung mechanic na nagsabi sayo nyan.. Hehe..
Anyway,
Di naman po problematic cooling system nitong model na ito. Basta alaga lang cooling system, alang kalawang at okay ang thermostat and tama level at walang leak. No problem sa overheat kahit hatawin mo pa maghapon sa racetrack.

Manual po ba itong prospect buy nyo? Ang sakit ng model na ito is ung mahal na parts especially ung pagpapalit ng clutch assy. at dual mass flywheel. Budget ka duon ng 80k for parts and labor. So kung nasa 150++ na mileage ng kukunin mo at di pa ito napapalitan, pede mo pa tawaran or mag ipon ka na sama mo na pang timing belt. Rare din minsan parts, example, di ka makakabile ng inner CV joint bearing. Isang buong CV joint benta which is around 20k isa ata. Kahit battery is ibang klase din. Pero meron namang motolite. 7k.

Overall matibay naman engine at matipid din at malakas pa sa hatawan.

i used to have a m/t frontier, i think diesel engines are best sa low speeds and low gears, often times becoz of the torque, im always at 2nd or 3rd gear...at highway speeds, i rather have a gasoline one..

[jut703]

i used to have a m/t frontier, i think diesel engines are best sa low speeds and low gears, often times becoz of the torque, im always at 2nd or 3rd gear...at highway speeds, i rather have a gasoline one..

The Frontier TD27 (or QD32) is very, very different from today's modern CRDi diesels.

All modern diesels are capable of running at reasonable highway speeds (100-140 kph). For cars like the Focus TDCi, even 200 kph is easy (no other compact can out-accelerate it to 200 kph, except the 2.0 FD MT). Even Monteros, Fortuners, and Everests will easily cruise at speeds above 160.

Newer diesels are also much more refined compared to diesels from a decade ago. Save for the noisy Trailblazer and MUX, the current crop of SUVs have noticeably quieter engines, closer to gas engines than to old-school 90s diesels.

Sent from my SM-N9208 using Tapatalk

[bboyukoy]

Natrauma ata nung kabataan nya sa diesel na oto ung mechanic na nagsabi sayo nyan.. Hehe..
Anyway,
Di naman po problematic cooling system nitong model na ito. Basta alaga lang cooling system, alang kalawang at okay ang thermostat and tama level at walang leak. No problem sa overheat kahit hatawin mo pa maghapon sa racetrack.

Manual po ba itong prospect buy nyo? Ang sakit ng model na ito is ung mahal na parts especially ung pagpapalit ng clutch assy. at dual mass flywheel. Budget ka duon ng 80k for parts and labor. So kung nasa 150++ na mileage ng kukunin mo at di pa ito napapalitan, pede mo pa tawaran or mag ipon ka na sama mo na pang timing belt. Rare din minsan parts, example, di ka makakabile ng inner CV joint bearing. Isang buong CV joint benta which is around 20k isa ata. Kahit battery is ibang klase din. Pero meron namang motolite. 7k.

Overall matibay naman engine at matipid din at malakas pa sa hatawan.

Thanks Dalek and Janemar.

There were Hyundai CRDI Sedans kasi na he used to fixed so I guess based sa experience nya on other brands or models. He also fix SUV diesels and maintains my car so may tiwala naman ako sa kanya pero nag taka lang ako sa comment nya on sedans with diesel engines.

I'm looking at 2.0 Turbo Diesel Engine manual transmission tapos 70K mileage na. Ok ba? Priced at 300K.

I'm based in Cebu pala. Baka mahirap parts nito.

[Janemar]

Thanks Dalek and Janemar.

There were Hyundai CRDI Sedans kasi na he used to fixed so I guess based sa experience nya on other brands or models. He also fix SUV diesels and maintains my car so may tiwala naman ako sa kanya pero nag taka lang ako sa comment nya on sedans with diesel engines.

I'm looking at 2.0 Turbo Diesel Engine manual transmission tapos 70K mileage na. Ok ba? Priced at 300K.

I'm based in Cebu pala. Baka mahirap parts nito.

I've already mentioned those question on my earlier post...