Dash lights flickering

[ParticleX]

My dash, park, and map lights flicker slightly Ride is a Terrano TD27T

Replacement 70A alternator na ito (acquired brandnew, 4-6 yrs ago ata). Napansin ko nag ganito na siya nung nabasa ko ang alternator when changing the radiator hose

Malakas pa naman kumarga, tested with a battery shop and may sarili rin akong VOM - around 13.9-14.2V when idle.

May nabasa ako somewhere na i-set ko ang VOM ko to Vac mode, pag measure ko at the battery terminals, meron 30.5Vac, kelangan daw negligible ang presence ng AC sa system.

Nag research ako and possible na rectifier ang problem neto. Mga magkano kaya ito? Ano ba usually ang wear and tear parts ng alternator and usual prices, para makapag-ready ako pag binaklas nila at isahang gawa na lang

Or mas worth it bang i-swap ko na lang for a surplus higher-amp alt? Ang direct fit lang yata sakin is from an Urvan na 90A, kung may masuggest kayo na 100A+ with minimal bracket conversion mas ok. Thanks!

[miked]

May nabasa ako somewhere na i-set ko ang VOM ko to Vac mode, pag measure ko at the battery terminals, meron 30.5Vac, kelangan daw negligible ang presence ng AC sa system.

Nag research ako and possible na rectifier ang problem neto. Mga magkano kaya ito? Ano ba usually ang wear and tear parts ng alternator and usual prices, para makapag-ready ako pag binaklas nila at isahang gawa na lang

hmmm. ngayon ko lang nalaman yang "presence of AC". maresearch nga din.

kung rectifier, parang less 1k iirc. the usual wear & tear parts? carbon brush, bearing, pulley & belt, stator winding (insulation), rotor. atsaka oil seal (kung may kasamang vac pump)

kung yung made in china na alternator iyan e baka nga ganyan din talaga ang lifespan. magpalit ka na lang (siguro) ng surplus pero kelangan din iinspect ang internal parts.

as long as wala kang power consuming devices aside from oem e ok naman yang 70 amps.

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May nabasa ako somewhere na i-set ko ang VOM ko to Vac mode, pag measure ko at the battery terminals, meron 30.5Vac, kelangan daw negligible ang presence ng AC sa system.

Nag research ako and possible na rectifier ang problem neto. Mga magkano kaya ito? Ano ba usually ang wear and tear parts ng alternator and usual prices, para makapag-ready ako pag binaklas nila at isahang gawa na lang

hmmm. ngayon ko lang nalaman yang "presence of AC". maresearch nga din.

kung rectifier, parang less 1k iirc. the usual wear & tear parts? carbon brush, bearing, pulley & belt, stator winding (insulation), rotor. atsaka oil seal (kung may kasamang vac pump)

kung yung made in china na alternator iyan e baka nga ganyan din talaga ang lifespan. magpalit ka na lang (siguro) ng surplus pero kelangan din iinspect ang internal parts.

as long as wala kang power consuming devices aside from oem e ok naman yang 70 amps.

[jick.cejoco]

Check voltage drop across the I/P ground wires

[ParticleX]

hmmm. ngayon ko lang nalaman yang "presence of AC". maresearch nga din.

kung rectifier, parang less 1k iirc. the usual wear & tear parts? carbon brush, bearing, pulley & belt, stator winding (insulation), rotor. atsaka oil seal (kung may kasamang vac pump)

kung yung made in china na alternator iyan e baka nga ganyan din talaga ang lifespan. magpalit ka na lang (siguro) ng surplus pero kelangan din iinspect ang internal parts.

as long as wala kang power consuming devices aside from oem e ok naman yang 70 amps.

Unipoint yung replacement, Taiwan yata. May minor sound setup ako and before summer, magpadagdag ako ng aux fan, so an upgraded alternator will be beneficial. Pano ba chinecheck ang used alternators? I-swap ko na lang siguro yung nakakabit para bawas pa sa presyo kung hindi naman nagkakalayo ang repair sa surplus alt.

Check voltage drop across the I/P ground wires

IP - injection pump? I believe ok ang wirings ko ngayon, I have it rewired already plus I added additional batt-engine-body ground using welding cable

[t2erns]

i think your generator (not alternator) is working fine. 30.5Vac though is too much maybe you mean 30.5mV (milli volts) the generator is producing filtered ac voltage (half sine wave - produced from the rectifier).

IP= instrument panel

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i think your generator (not alternator) is working fine. 30.5Vac though is too much maybe you mean 30.5mV (milli volts) the generator is producing filtered ac voltage (half sine wave - produced from the rectifier).

IP= instrument panel

[ParticleX]

i think your generator (not alternator) is working fine. 30.5Vac though is too much maybe you mean 30.5mV (milli volts) the generator is producing filtered ac voltage (half sine wave - produced from the rectifier).

IP= instrument panell

IIRC 30.5V nga yun since I set the VOM to display 20Vac, recheck ko mamaya

Pati rin sa park and map lights eh may slight flicker din eh, dunno if mataas nga voltage drop sa instrument panel. Sa weekend ko na lang recheck kasi I have to cuss everytime I yank the dash sa hirap

[crazy_boy]

nag flicker din optitron gauge ng toyota namin. dont know where to start checking.

[miked]

nag flicker din optitron gauge ng toyota namin. dont know where to start checking.

battery....paload test mo muna.

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nag flicker din optitron gauge ng toyota namin. dont know where to start checking.

battery....paload test mo muna.

[miked]

Unipoint yung replacement, Taiwan yata. May minor sound setup ako and before summer, magpadagdag ako ng aux fan, so an upgraded alternator will be beneficial. Pano ba chinecheck ang used alternators? I-swap ko na lang siguro yung nakakabit para bawas pa sa presyo kung hindi naman nagkakalayo ang repair sa surplus alt.

kadalasan may test rig yung mga surplusan...dalhin mo na rin yang DVOM mo.

kung sinet mo sa 20 VAC yung scale sa meter mo e hindi mo mababasa yung 30.5 VAC. baka 3.05 VAC kamo. or even lower

start ka muna sa battery (load test blah blah), terminals, grounding points then supply lines.

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Unipoint yung replacement, Taiwan yata. May minor sound setup ako and before summer, magpadagdag ako ng aux fan, so an upgraded alternator will be beneficial. Pano ba chinecheck ang used alternators? I-swap ko na lang siguro yung nakakabit para bawas pa sa presyo kung hindi naman nagkakalayo ang repair sa surplus alt.

kadalasan may test rig yung mga surplusan...dalhin mo na rin yang DVOM mo.

kung sinet mo sa 20 VAC yung scale sa meter mo e hindi mo mababasa yung 30.5 VAC. baka 3.05 VAC kamo. or even lower

start ka muna sa battery (load test blah blah), terminals, grounding points then supply lines.

[ParticleX]

kadalasan may test rig yung mga surplusan...dalhin mo na rin yang DVOM mo.

kung sinet mo sa 20 VAC yung scale sa meter mo e hindi mo mababasa yung 30.5 VAC. baka 3.05 VAC kamo. or even lower

start ka muna sa battery (load test blah blah), terminals, grounding points then supply lines.

Nakaset to 200Vac reading, around 29-30.5Vac ang display

Already load-tested, and may spare akong brand new battery din. same
batt terminals not corroded, cleaned
Cleaned grounding points, ganun pa rin

Sa mga napagtatanungan ko, around 5-6k ang 110A na alternator, supposedly Nissan so plug and play na lang. Parang ang mahal, nababasa ko sa forums around 2-3k lang ang surplus alts, or pang gas engines lang yun (without the vacuum(?) line)

[crazy_boy]

try mo mag inquire dito.
Mardenrey Auto Electrical Shop
nagpopost dati dito sa tsikot anak niyan, nagpagawa na ako before ng alternator ok naman sila. wholesaler sila ng surplus parts. if im not mistaken, mga shops sa banawe dito kumukuha.

[kinyo]

Nakaset to 200Vac reading, around 29-30.5Vac ang display

You must be using one of those cheap chinese multitester (like DT830B in cdrking). Try reversing the probes to check you battery voltage, you'll read 0 volts.

You need to use true rms multitester to have proper readings.

[ParticleX]

You must be using one of those cheap chinese multitester (like DT830B in cdrking). Try reversing the probes to check you battery voltage, you'll read 0 volts.

You need to use true rms multitester to have proper readings.

Ha, sakto pa yung model Walang budget pang Fluke

Anyway pumunta na ako ng Mardenray. Slight OT mali ata yung address dun sa Google Maps, sa Waze yung tama

Pimabaklas ko muna yung alt ko for diagnosis. Ok naman daw and buo pa mga diodes, kaso wala ata silang pang check nung IC. Since andun na rin ako, nag go na ako for upgrade

Kinabit is from a Kia Carnival daw na 120A, nabura na kasi label - mas malaki ng onti compared sa nakakabit dati. 4k with labor and tradein ng replacement alt ko. Di na ako tumawad. Tinabasan onti yung mounting ears nung alt and may slight modification lang sa brackets

Medyo nakalayo na ako saka ko lang napansin yung hand brake indicator, paguwi ko tanggal pala yung isang vacuum line(?), bumili na lang ako ng bagong hose kasi mas malaki yung fitting nung surplus alt

Per initial observation wala nang flickering and mas lumakas yung fans ko. 30 days warranty except sa oil seals and regulator sabi sa receipt wc I find uncomforting - may nakasabay ako na Pajero and sa kanila din galing yung surplus alt, nagloko na after 2 months