Honda ESi charging system problem

[wickednasty]

im having problems regarding my car's electricals. the problem is, my battery doesn't seem to get enough juice from the charging system. my battery is a six months old motolite enduro MF. i had it checked from the shop where i bough it, and it showed no fault. water level is ok. when we clamped a voltmeter on the battery it still shows 12V on the meter, but whenever we rev the engine to allow the alternator to charge the battery, the meter just plays around 12.5-13V, which according to the shop owner, is not a good sign. my question is, should it really go up to 14V when stepping on the gas to ensure a good charging system? my problem with the whole setup is pag matagal na hindi nagagamit yung car( 2-3 days) i only hear a clicking sound when i turn on the ignition. at first i would assume na na-discharge na yung battery, but after a few tries on the ignition, nakakapag start nman.. im not sure if this is a starter issue, or a spark plug issue, or kung talagang kailangnan ko na magpalit ng alternator or something else... this also happens when i turn the engine off after travelling for a few hours, then start the car again after a few minutes.
the initial recommendation was to have the electrical system checked. i was hoping you guys could tell me what to do here,a s well as recommend a good shop who could troubleshoot the problem. preferrably sa south... notes: igniter and ignition coil has been replaced about a month ahead of the battery.


much thanks in advance.....

[kinyo]

This is a similar problem on my ESi. It turned out that the alternator rotor windings was found to have internal short, hence, charging was not at full capacity. I had the rotor replaced and car was back to normal.

A good electrical/alternator shop should have this test jig to verify the integrity of the rotor windings. Without a test jig, you'll need a known good rotor and perform coil resistance checks for comparison. Actually, before I accepted the new rotor, I insisted on the resistance checks, and true enough, an internal short was indicated on my old rotor.

When the engine is running, the battery voltage should nominally read 13.8 - 14.0 volts. Anything outside this range is a possible charging problem (including the battery).

Hope this helps.

[[archie]]

This is a similar problem on my ESi. It turned out that the alternator rotor windings was found to have internal short, hence, charging was not at full capacity. I had the rotor replaced and car was back to normal.

A good electrical/alternator shop should have this test jig to verify the integrity of the rotor windings. Without a test jig, you'll need a known good rotor and perform coil resistance checks for comparison. Actually, before I accepted the new rotor, I insisted on the resistance checks, and true enough, an internal short was indicated on my old rotor.

When the engine is running, the battery voltage should nominally read 13.8 - 14.0 volts. Anything outside this range is a possible charging problem (including the battery).

Hope this helps.

+1 if the batt is not charging well, malamang ang prob is the wiring from the internal alternator to your batt.

the ignition si not a prob kung may tik kang narirnig, hindi lang talaga kaya ng batt mo start yung car (mahina). one more thing to add is to check your ground, baka may nagdedrain ng batt mo through grounding.

[deedee]

easiest test to do for alternator charge is turn engine on.let it run on idle and turn all your accessories on(headlights,radio,etc,etc)if the battery gauge drops...you know your alternator isnt working right(or dead already).
another tet is turn your engine on,run on idle and disconnect the battery positive line.if the car dies..your alternator just conked out.(it should stay running even without the battery connected.

[kinyo]

another tet is turn your engine on,run on idle and disconnect the battery positive line.if the car dies..your alternator just conked out.(it should stay running even without the battery connected.

this used to be ok for old school cars without sensitive electronic components

modern cars, those with ECU's, have sensitive electronic components, the ECU itself and sensors, aircon controls, alarm system, stereo, etc. can be damaged with this procedure ...

[SIZE="4"]removing the battery terminal/s and letting the alternator supply power alone can produce transient voltages up to 80 volts on the system ... and if you happen to have a defective/shorted regulator (inside the alternator) or a shorted diode, you're asking for a disaster![/SIZE]

[SIZE="6"]you were warned! don't ever let anybody do this procedure to your modern cars![/SIZE]

consider yourself very lucky if your car survived this dangerous test!

[JiggeR671]

agree with sir kinyo, wag tanggalin yung battery terminals while engine is running... O.T. sir kinyo, 1970 join date mo sa tsikot? hehe

yung click click sound baka starter yan.. try mo katukin yung starter next time mangyari ulit.

yun namang 13v pag naka on yung makina baka alternator na yan...

[deedee]

this used to be ok for old school cars without sensitive electronic components

modern cars, those with ECU's, have sensitive electronic components, the ECU itself and sensors, aircon controls, alarm system, stereo, etc. can be damaged with this procedure ...

[SIZE=4]removing the battery terminal/s and letting the alternator supply power alone can produce transient voltages up to 80 volts on the system ... and if you happen to have a defective/shorted regulator (inside the alternator) or a shorted diode, you're asking for a disaster![/SIZE]

[SIZE=6]you were warned! don't ever let anybody do this procedure to your modern cars![/SIZE]

consider yourself very lucky if your car survived this dangerous test!

a failing alternator that surge hiigher voltage will damage any electrical system regardless wether the battery positive is connected or not.
the positive line that connects the battery and alternator is there to recharge the battery via alternator.nothing more.
when the car is running..the battery doesnt do anything anymore in regards to the electrical system of the car unless the alternator isnt giving enough amphere/voltage to power up the rest of the electrical system.
the clicking sound you hear when starting the engine comes from the starter.the alternator doesnt have anything to do when starting the engine.its mainly the battery cranking power and the starter.

[MasterZerg]

if i were you..try to get second opinion from another shop... libre lang naman usually un..or kung gusto mong sigurado.. pa diagnose mo lang sa casa(you might spend less than 1k) then ipagawa mo sa iba... at least you'll know what the culprit is

[kinyo]

a failing alternator that surge hiigher voltage will damage any electrical system regardless wether the battery positive is connected or not.

when i said transient voltages up to 80 volts, that is what may come from a good, normally functioning, alternator when battery terminals are removed ... the battery actually also serves as surge suppressor for the system

a defective alternator may or may not cause a disaster