Freeing the Alternator Load

[rion]

hmm... I thought those small colored leds are 3.5volts each, even less... except those park peanut led lights

[alwayz_yummy]

hehehe mountain bike yun,e...pero pwede kung individual(multi-led bulbs, pwede less than 12v each led para maging 12V)

pero rated 12v na yun, kung hindi 12v yun, dapat may resistor yun para di ma-overload ang LED..

nga pala, LEDs are POLARIZED, so kung sa unang kabit mo di umilaw, iikot mo..pag di parin, aba balik mo na sa binilhan mo...

and dont exceed what is indicated! kung 60/55 lang ang nakalagay sa headlight--60/55 lang dapat maximum! naputukan na ako ng bulb sa loob ng headlight casing and its nasty, natunawan na ako ng HL sockets, wires and column switch..and i tell you nasa huli ang pagsisisi...

kaya i buy nalang halogens na may tatak kahit mahal: OSRAM, NARVA, PHILIPS, original RAYBRIG(may fake nito!), PIAA, IPF, POLARG...sulit naman sa lifetime--crystal vision gamit ko pero ayun 10 taon mahigit na, ilaw parin!

sa tail lights ok lang ang 27w/8w(alam ko meron nito) pero stock is 25w/5w.. parklignt, usually 5W lang yun. signal lights 25-27W, reverse, eto pwede mo lagyan ng 25-32W(for good rear road illumination)..some may combination park-cornerlights(like sa liteace ko noon--32W/5w yun... pero kung corner lights lang 32W yun...

interior lights usually 5-10W lang dapat. gauge cluster--ung peanuts 5W(3-4 pieces of these), others are 1W(aircon controls, warning lights, switch illuminators)

malaking power user mo sa van is still AIRCONDITIONING.. sucks out 5-10% of your engine's power(kaya nga may idle-up to at pinapatay sa ahunan,e...)

nasa sayo--ako, i will invest on a bigger capacity(90AH) alternator first than magbawas/maglimit ng lighting--esential yun sa gabi at long drives....yun ang ginawa ko..tatagal pa buhay ng baterya mo kasi madali siyang nachacharge kahit nakaidle pa..

plus kung mahina karga ng alternator mo, mahina kuryente, mga motors and lights mo, mahina/in-efficient din--aux fans, blowers, horns, lights,etc...lahat yan alternator dependent, hindi battery...ang talaga lang dependent sa battery mo ay yung starter...dapat atleast 12.3-12.5V para sure na iikot/kakadyot ang starter...

ps: invest also sa analog(not digital) volt meter and ammeter so that you can monitor your electrical system(voltmeter to measure the electricity flowing(normally dapat 12.5-14.7V yan, any lower/higher, may prob na sa regulator..ammeter to show kung kumakarga sa baterya mo)

[wewoy_romero]

hehehe mountain bike yun,e...pero pwede kung individual(multi-led bulbs, pwede less than 12v each led para maging 12V)

pero rated 12v na yun, kung hindi 12v yun, dapat may resistor yun para di ma-overload ang LED..

nga pala, LEDs are POLARIZED, so kung sa unang kabit mo di umilaw, iikot mo..pag di parin, aba balik mo na sa binilhan mo...

and dont exceed what is indicated! kung 60/55 lang ang nakalagay sa headlight--60/55 lang dapat maximum! naputukan na ako ng bulb sa loob ng headlight casing and its nasty, natunawan na ako ng HL sockets, wires and column switch..and i tell you nasa huli ang pagsisisi...

kaya i buy nalang halogens na may tatak kahit mahal: OSRAM, NARVA, PHILIPS, original RAYBRIG(may fake nito!), PIAA, IPF, POLARG...sulit naman sa lifetime--crystal vision gamit ko pero ayun 10 taon mahigit na, ilaw parin!

sa tail lights ok lang ang 27w/8w(alam ko meron nito) pero stock is 25w/5w.. parklignt, usually 5W lang yun. signal lights 25-27W, reverse, eto pwede mo lagyan ng 25-32W(for good rear road illumination)..some may combination park-cornerlights(like sa liteace ko noon--32W/5w yun... pero kung corner lights lang 32W yun...

interior lights usually 5-10W lang dapat. gauge cluster--ung peanuts 5W(3-4 pieces of these), others are 1W(aircon controls, warning lights, switch illuminators)

malaking power user mo sa van is still AIRCONDITIONING.. sucks out 5-10% of your engine's power(kaya nga may idle-up to at pinapatay sa ahunan,e...)

nasa sayo--ako, i will invest on a bigger capacity(90AH) alternator first than magbawas/maglimit ng lighting--esential yun sa gabi at long drives....yun ang ginawa ko..tatagal pa buhay ng baterya mo kasi madali siyang nachacharge kahit nakaidle pa..

plus kung mahina karga ng alternator mo, mahina kuryente, mga motors and lights mo, mahina/in-efficient din--aux fans, blowers, horns, lights,etc...lahat yan alternator dependent, hindi battery...ang talaga lang dependent sa battery mo ay yung starter...dapat atleast 12.3-12.5V para sure na iikot/kakadyot ang starter...

ps: invest also sa analog(not digital) volt meter and ammeter so that you can monitor your electrical system(voltmeter to measure the electricity flowing(normally dapat 12.5-14.7V yan, any lower/higher, may prob na sa regulator..ammeter to show kung kumakarga sa baterya mo)

nice post sir. very helpful

[rion]

sir a.y,

what if the battery is weak? should it give the same voltage reading as long as the engine is running?

[eyshmechanic]

[quote=yebo;994651]basta huwag ka lang gagaya dun sa mga jeepneys na pumapasada ng walang ilaw sa gabi hehehehe! para daw tipid sa crudo kaya di nila on ang ilaw. tipid nga sa diesel, takaw aksidente naman.



kala kasi ng mga jeepney driver may sensor yung makina nila sa electrical load. na tataas ang idling kapag bukas ang ilaw he he

[alwayz_yummy]

may testet talaga ang mga electrical and/or battery shops-- malaki yun will simulate starter load...

healthy battery and alternator will give nga atleast 12.5V at full load(a/c, high beam, fogs,etc..)

ginagawa ko to check--start, tapos tap ako ng VOM sa battery.. dapat mahigit 12V yan automatic, 14.5-14.7V dapat, depende sa laki(not dimesions, but capacity) ng alternator mo (mines 90AH at idle)..

pag nag tap ka ng VOM sa battery mo at running pa engine mo and nagregister lang ng 12.5V wala pang ibang buhay, aba pacheck mo na sa electrician/battery shop...kasi no laod palang 12.5v na, e paano pa pag nag buhay ka pa ng aircon..pag nag 11.9 yan sure na yan may prob isa sa 2 major component: alternator or battery.

2 or 3 lang naman yan usually,e---1. battery di na tumatangap ng karga, 2. alternator di na maganda ang karga(sunog na yung windings sa loob) or 3. busted yung regulator( kung IC regulator, medyo mahal palitan than old-school regulator.)

most new regulators are IC-type na.. mas maganda kasi mag regulate..

and nga pala, pag naging 15V pataas ang reading mo, pacheck mo agad yan--sisirain nyan batterya mo, in some instance lolobo, worst pumutok(awaw ng dyos wala pang naputok na baterya sa amin dito--lumobo lang)

hehehe somewhat OT na tayo dito,a.. hehehe

[rion]

ok I see thanks A.Y

[wewoy_romero]

may testet talaga ang mga electrical and/or battery shops-- malaki yun will simulate starter load...

healthy battery and alternator will give nga atleast 12.5V at full load(a/c, high beam, fogs,etc..)

ginagawa ko to check--start, tapos tap ako ng VOM sa battery.. dapat mahigit 12V yan automatic, 14.5-14.7V dapat, depende sa laki(not dimesions, but capacity) ng alternator mo (mines 90AH at idle)..

pag nag tap ka ng VOM sa battery mo at running pa engine mo and nagregister lang ng 12.5V wala pang ibang buhay, aba pacheck mo na sa electrician/battery shop...kasi no laod palang 12.5v na, e paano pa pag nag buhay ka pa ng aircon..pag nag 11.9 yan sure na yan may prob isa sa 2 major component: alternator or battery.

2 or 3 lang naman yan usually,e---1. battery di na tumatangap ng karga, 2. alternator di na maganda ang karga(sunog na yung windings sa loob) or 3. busted yung regulator( kung IC regulator, medyo mahal palitan than old-school regulator.)

most new regulators are IC-type na.. mas maganda kasi mag regulate..

and nga pala, pag naging 15V pataas ang reading mo, pacheck mo agad yan--sisirain nyan batterya mo, in some instance lolobo, worst pumutok(awaw ng dyos wala pang naputok na baterya sa amin dito--lumobo lang)

hehehe somewhat OT na tayo dito,a.. hehehe

sir how do you check sa vom? set mo sa volts (not resistance di ba?) tapos red on positive ng battery tapos black on negative ng battery.

pag with lights, sounds, etc on, ano dapat reading sa vom?

[raine]

try mo to check kung ok pa ang performance ng alternator mo, start the engine and measure mo ang voltage sa battery dapat mga 13.5v-14v ang reading mo. then mag lagay ka ng electrical load open headlight, aircon, stereo other electrical consumers, check uli ang reading sa battery pag bumaba na sa 13v mahina na ang alternator mo, maybe due to worn out carbon brush or you need to up grade, pag mataas pa sa 13v good pa alternator mo kahit meron ka pang load na marami nagchaharge pa rin ng battery.

[ghosthunter]

There is a mod that is usually used for racing but it can also lower the load of the alternator to the engine. It's called an underdrive pulley. This is a replacement pulley or pulley set (depending on application) where the ratios are changed to make the engine "accessories" turn slower at idle.

"Accessories" would include the alternator, power steering pump, water pump. Typically the engine "gains" back around 5 to 10hp. If you are not into racing, this can translate to better FC numbers.

It is found on a typical car that the slower turning alternator is not a problem and the battery charges adequately during normal road driving. This assumes the electrical load is close to factory stock (no massive ICE installations) and the alternator is in good condition.

[kinyo]

although it is true that LED's use less power, they don't really make an impact on being an alternator load ... a few watts lesser load would not really extend the life of the alternator nor would it reflect a lower fuel consumption

one unnecessary step on the gas pedal would cancel all the power savings on LED's ... and we all do this unnecessary step many times over on a single trip don't we?

go ahead with LED's as you wish, but don't expect your alternator smiling