Is it contact point, condenser or battery ang problema??

**AcidBurn** · June 30th, 2011 12:42 PM

Originally Posted by kinyo

maaring meron bad/loose/corroded contact sa wiring ng battery and/or main fuse ... pa-check na lang sa electrician ang wiring

*kinyo, noted sir, will do. thanks

Originally Posted by imperialv

pa adjust mo na lang yung minor mo.. baka makuha...

*imperialv, negative sir...pag tinaasan ko ng minor, bumababa pa rin talaga ang rpm pag nakabukas ang headlights. thanks

**jick.cejoco** · June 30th, 2011 01:24 PM

Originally Posted by AcidBurn

Boss Noob,

Mejo hinde tayo knowledgeable when it comes to electrical...just a few clarifications before diy. On item nos 2 and 3...
1) Ang ibig bang sabihin ay alisin ko ang ground wire na nakakunekta sa baterya at idikit ko sa negative terminal, tama po ba?
2) Pag may umispark it means na may grounded connections some where ang auto?

Thanks

it will have a spark regardless the ignition switch is off. all the circuits that maintain memory charges their capacitors. some parasitic loads will have bigger capacitors. this is not a very reliable method. use a digital multimeter connected between the battery negative terminal (black test lead) and the battery cable clamp ( red test lead) set on millliamps. temporarily jumper the battery post and the cable while the DMM is connected to charge the capacitors. then, the current reduces and that's your parasitic drain. if it is above 40 milliamps, rest assured there is a short somewhere that is not big enough to blow the fuse. this test is done with the doors closed, trunk lid( if it has trunk light) closed, ignition switch off so are the other switched loads have to be in the off position

**jvnj** · June 30th, 2011 04:37 PM

Sir AcidBurn,

Try also checking your connections (Negative terminal, Positive terminal and the grounding connections [Battery to body, Battery to Engine, etc.]). Loose / poor connections can also cause / contribute the mentioned symptoms. Be sure all contacts are clean from any corrosion and are properly tightened.

Also, while your car is on idle, turn-on your headlights and observe if your cable/s are warm or warming. Possible cause can be a loose connection or undersized wire. Please keep us posted.

Thanks

**AcidBurn** · July 3rd, 2011 03:42 PM

Originally Posted by jvnj

Sir AcidBurn,

Try also checking your connections (Negative terminal, Positive terminal and the grounding connections [Battery to body, Battery to Engine, etc.]). Loose / poor connections can also cause / contribute the mentioned symptoms. Be sure all contacts are clean from any corrosion and are properly tightened.

Also, while your car is on idle, turn-on your headlights and observe if your cable/s are warm or warming. Possible cause can be a loose connection or undersized wire. Please keep us posted.

Thanks

Will do sir jvnj thanks

**AcidBurn** · July 3rd, 2011 03:56 PM

Mga sirs,

Not sure if this is normal, napuna ko lang yesterday nung inistart ko un auto while the rpm is not yet on its normal level ay inopen ko ang HL pero hinde bumaba ang rpm...nasa 700 pa lang ang rpm ko that time at pag uminit na makina ay babalik na sa normal level na 900...pero sa scenario na un ay nag-stay lang sa 700 ang rpm while open ang headlights

Naobserbahan ko lang na pag nsa normal level na ang rpm at binuksan ang headights thats the only time na bumababa into 700?? Weird po ba :-)

Ano kaya possible cause nito...wala naman sigurong kinalaman ang mga lumang pyesa na last year pa napalitan which is the spark plugs, contact point, condenser, etc or ano po kaya ang mga dapat ipacheck pag ganito ang naeencounter? TIA

**Chef Noob** · July 4th, 2011 01:49 AM

Originally Posted by jick.cejoco

it will have a spark regardless the ignition switch is off. all the circuits that maintain memory charges their capacitors. some parasitic loads will have bigger capacitors.

True, but the fact that his car still uses the points just like mine, I would assume that the only gadget he had thats got memory is the clock.

Originally Posted by AcidBurn

Boss Noob,

Mejo hinde tayo knowledgeable when it comes to electrical...just a few clarifications before diy. On item nos 2 and 3...
1) Ang ibig bang sabihin ay alisin ko ang ground wire na nakakunekta sa baterya at idikit ko sa negative terminal, tama po ba?
2) Pag may umispark it means na may grounded connections some where ang auto?

Thanks

Acid Burn,
Yup...Basically, tatanggalin mo lang syung negative terminal at e dikit/patong ulit dun sa pinag tanggalan mo na poste...just to check pag may ground.
Actually, better ang method ni jick stated above since more scientific aka "surebol" yun...provided you have a Digital Multimeter which has an amp setting.

Just to clarify his post. Dapat mong e series ang tester within the circuit. Meaning, one lead (-) goes to the neg side of the battery, the other (+) goes to the GROUND CABLE of the car. NEVER use it across the terminals of the battery(positive to negative)...kundi uusok yang tester mo!

The method I suggested was a crude way of finding it... but it does work most of the time for older model cars.

Btw, the reason hindi mo napapansin o walang pagbabago ang menor pag kaka start mo palang kasi hindi pa vaporized maigi ang fuel...meaning malamig pa makina mo.

Can I ask what make & model auto mo?

**AcidBurn** · July 4th, 2011 09:32 AM

Originally Posted by Chef Noob

True, but the fact that his car still uses the points just like mine, I would assume that the only gadget he had thats got memory is the clock.

Acid Burn,
Yup...Basically, tatanggalin mo lang syung negative terminal at e dikit/patong ulit dun sa pinag tanggalan mo na poste...just to check pag may ground.
Actually, better ang method ni jick stated above since more scientific aka "surebol" yun...provided you have a Digital Multimeter which has an amp setting.

Just to clarify his post. Dapat mong e series ang tester within the circuit. Meaning, one lead (-) goes to the neg side of the battery, the other (+) goes to the GROUND CABLE of the car. NEVER use it across the terminals of the battery(positive to negative)...kundi uusok yang tester mo!

The method I suggested was a crude way of finding it... but it does work most of the time for older model cars.

Btw, the reason hindi mo napapansin o walang pagbabago ang menor pag kaka start mo palang kasi hindi pa vaporized maigi ang fuel...meaning malamig pa makina mo.

Can I ask what make & model auto mo?

Noted sir...ride is nissan stanza 86. thanks

**paulgozon** · July 24th, 2011 04:59 PM

Changing or re-installing contact point, whether new or old will surely affect its timing,. Better re-check timing and also the idle mixture and idle speed. These are the most common thing to do. Before concluding that the alternator is the problem.

**AcidBurn** · July 24th, 2011 06:31 PM

Originally Posted by paulgozon

Changing or re-installing contact point, whether new or old will surely affect its timing,. Better re-check timing and also the idle mixture and idle speed. These are the most common thing to do. Before concluding that the alternator is the problem.

Sir paul, you mean I should also consider the old contact point and condenser na binalik nung mekaniko sa problema ng auto?

We already tried other solutions by fellow tsikoteers, we adjusted the mixture and idle speed, pero pag nakaload na ang HL ay talagang bumababa ng 200 ang rpm...aside from that, mejo lumakas pa fuel consumption kaya binalik ko na uli sa dati :-)

Thanks

**Chef Noob** · July 30th, 2011 04:25 PM

Sir, may I ask what type of lights are you using? and whats the wattage output? baka kasi masyadong malakas para sa battery mo.
Also, do you have any electrical vaccum pumps?(i.e. aircon actuator, etc.)

Also, using a multimeter/voltmeter, check the voltage of the battery with the lights on & off...dapat less than 1volt lang ang difference.

One possibility is bumababa masyado ang output voltage ng batt mo...

Check back on this once you have the details...