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  1. Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    262
    #41
    Quote Originally Posted by jick.cejoco View Post
    hehehehe that's the distinction between the "mechanic" and the technician. having the electrical wiring diagram is a must if you are troubleshooting. it is comparable to being dropped in the middle of paris and told to find your way without a map. reading and interpreting the diagram, knowing the test points, knowing what to test at certain parts of the circuits and knowing the anatomy of your vehicle. this is the forensics part of being an auto technician
    i agree..

    kaya nga baka pede.. pasuyo nung basic circuitry ng parklight at headlight kagaya ng tanung ko sa previous kong post

  2. Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    5,130
    #42
    Quote Originally Posted by gtamp View Post
    i agree..

    kaya nga baka pede.. pasuyo nung basic circuitry ng parklight at headlight kagaya ng tanung ko sa previous kong post

    does your car have a u.s. version? if it has i would be happy to share it with you. or, you can probably google the diagram

  3. Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    570
    #43
    Baka masyado mababa idling rpm mo at kaya hindi masyado makargahan ng Alternator yun battery. Lalo na kung luma na ang battery. Kung below 800 rpm ay itaas mo ng 900 rpm. Dapat mas mataas ang charging voltage +13.5V.
    Kung +12V lang galing sa Alternator ay hindi nito makargahan ang battery kasi pantay lang ang voltage nila.

    Magpa install ka na rin ng Grounding Kit. Malaking tulong ito sa electrical ng lumang kotse. Dahil marumi na iyong mga terminals ng mga grounding wire at minsan under rated dahil sa mga dinagdag na mga load.

  4. Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    5,130
    #44
    Quote Originally Posted by gtamp View Post
    i agree..

    kaya nga baka pede.. pasuyo nung basic circuitry ng parklight at headlight kagaya ng tanung ko sa previous kong post




    apologies for not being familiar with your car, does the alternator have a built in voltage regulator? if it does not have it built in, the voltage regulator must be in the PCM like some of the newer asian cars and all of the chrysler products. usually, in this case of the PCM housed voltage regulator, the cause is the electrical load sensor or the battery temperature sensor

  5. Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    262
    #45
    Quote Originally Posted by jick.cejoco View Post
    does your car have a u.s. version? if it has i would be happy to share it with you. or, you can probably google the diagram
    KIA pregio yung sasakyan ko, not sure kung meron US version.. try ko na i-google at nakakita naman ako ng mga diagram kaya lang not sure kung applicable sa sasakyan ko ...

    dahil luma na sasakyan ko, advisable ba na magpainstall na lang ako ng separate new wires going to headlight at parklight?

    para mapadali yung isolation and at the sametime eh ma-lessen ang factor ng wire resistance sa voltage drop kapag naka-on yung park light at headlight.

    TIA

  6. Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    262
    #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Chinoi View Post
    Baka masyado mababa idling rpm mo at kaya hindi masyado makargahan ng Alternator yun battery. Lalo na kung luma na ang battery. Kung below 800 rpm ay itaas mo ng 900 rpm. Dapat mas mataas ang charging voltage +13.5V.
    Kung +12V lang galing sa Alternator ay hindi nito makargahan ang battery kasi pantay lang ang voltage nila.

    Magpa install ka na rin ng Grounding Kit. Malaking tulong ito sa electrical ng lumang kotse. Dahil marumi na iyong mga terminals ng mga grounding wire at minsan under rated dahil sa mga dinagdag na mga load.
    thanks uli

    not sure kung ilan ang rpm ko kase walang tachometer yung KIA pregio ko pero as i posted eh nasa 13.8V~14.1V ang output voltage ng alternator ko measured sa battery terminals while the engine running at idle at nakaswitch off lahat ng electricals.
    bumababa lang yan kapag naka-on na yung parklight at headlight.

    pero maski itaas ko yung rpm at basically tumataas din yung nasusukat na voltage pero once na nag-switch on ako ng parklight at headlight eh nagbababa pa din ng almost 0.8V~1V na sa palagay ko at base na rin sa ibang input/commet eh dapat hindi ganun

    if magpapainstall ako ng grounding kit eh saan naman ito iinstall or saan ito iko-connect? pagkakaintindi ko yung body/chassis mismo eh ground na. I tried naman icheck continuity from battery negative terminals papunta sa lahat ng metal parts eh almost zero resistance naman.

    meron bang possibility na hindi maganda grounding ng headlight at parklight ko kaya bumababa yung voltage kapag naka-on na?
    TIA

  7. Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    262
    #47
    Quote Originally Posted by jick.cejoco View Post
    apologies for not being familiar with your car, does the alternator have a built in voltage regulator? if it does not have it built in, the voltage regulator must be in the PCM like some of the newer asian cars and all of the chrysler products. usually, in this case of the PCM housed voltage regulator, the cause is the electrical load sensor or the battery temperature sensor
    not sure lang kung built in na. nagpalit ako ng alternator dahil yung nasusukat na voltage eh hindi na umabot ng 12V so hindi na nagkakarga ng maayus. ang pagkakatanda ko eh ichecheck daw yung voltage regulator at yung windings so cguro built in na

  8. Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    635
    #48
    dyan nga mahalaga yung sinasabi ko earlier na current draw test, hanap ka ng tech na pwede gumawa nito, voltage drop test is also one method. kung basic test lang, test mo mga suspect areas ng headlamps (since according to you dun bumabagsak ng todo). to give you a hint : check the headlamps ground (voltage drop test), check headlamp switch (visual lang makikita mo kung may signs ng nag iinit mga contacts, dapat tight ang contact) pag nakita mo ang culprit be sure the connections are tight and put some dielectric grease sa mga connectors.

  9. Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    262
    #49
    Quote Originally Posted by t2erns View Post
    dyan nga mahalaga yung sinasabi ko earlier na current draw test, hanap ka ng tech na pwede gumawa nito, voltage drop test is also one method. kung basic test lang, test mo mga suspect areas ng headlamps (since according to you dun bumabagsak ng todo). to give you a hint : check the headlamps ground (voltage drop test), check headlamp switch (visual lang makikita mo kung may signs ng nag iinit mga contacts, dapat tight ang contact) pag nakita mo ang culprit be sure the connections are tight and put some dielectric grease sa mga connectors.
    thanks uli,
    yes, lahat naman ng input/comments eh tinatandaan ko. ..atleast now meron na akong konting idea kung anu ang ipapacheck ko

    anu yung dielectric grease? anu benefits nito sa mga connectors?

  10. Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    635
    #50
    dielectric grease para ma prevent ang corrosions sa mga electrical contacts like sa mga connectors

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Bumababa ang voltage kapag naka-on parking/head light