Results 11 to 20 of 27
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April 18th, 2008 06:22 AM #11
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April 18th, 2008 09:31 AM #12
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April 18th, 2008 09:54 AM #13
Bro SQ, palitan mo nalang ng projector yung fogs mo. Laking tulong din nun.
Pero wala pa akong nahahanap..
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April 18th, 2008 10:20 AM #15
hmmm... will have to check with the wifey if we have budget to get new headlamp assy. if ok, will check out the shops when we get to san carlos-fremont in july.
it faded due to age and wear and tear. was using regular halogen bulbs 55/65 9006-9005. but recently switched to super yellow 80w 9006 xenon bulbs.
thanks.
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April 18th, 2008 10:28 AM #16
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April 19th, 2008 06:29 AM #17
no ideas how your accord headlights work. some headlights kasi are switched by negative post. meaning, the polarity could be opposites.
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April 19th, 2008 08:29 AM #18
AFAIK you have to swap the whole assemblies. The non-clear lenses are matched with smooth reflectors, while the clear lenses are matched with patterned reflectors. These matching will result in the same beam of light, though these days the clear ones are preferred for aesthetics.
If you install a clear lens to a reflector that's meant to be for a non-clear lens sabog din ang buga ng ilaw. Like I said they have to match. It's just like shining a beam from a flashlight. The smooth reflector from the non-clear lens is matched with the clear lens of the "flashlight" but in the flashlight analogy, there's no need for the beam cut off to prevent glare, whereas in the real car there is a critical need for this.
Plastic reflectors tend to do that, unfortunately - that's why they're cheap. That's just the nature of the material. The use of the overwattage bulb may have sped up the wear. You don't necessarily need to get a new assembly, a good used one will do - just give enough time to scourge the parts stores.
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April 21st, 2008 12:03 PM #19
what about the use of those booster kits for headlights? are they worth it? thanks.
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April 22nd, 2008 07:48 PM #20
Personally, no. There's a point of no return, and it's usually when you do some rewiring, for me that's a no-no. To me, adding booster kits is that point and I'm not going to risk ruining my car's electricals just because I wanted more light. If I wanted more light I would install higher gauge wires, relays, ceramic sockets, and possibly only install 55W/100W bulbs instead, since most of the time you'll be using the high beams when nobody's around (at least, ideally, you should - over there the story is obviously not true). So when I use the high beams that's when I'll need the thicker wires, but they also help by minimizing voltage drop and so I get the most out of my 55W low beams too. That or maybe go as high as 70W for lows. Currently, however, I just have stock bulbs.
You see, I'd rather do something that's reversible, rather than alter/modify the vehicle's headlight wiring. There are many ways to get a healthy lighting system, I think you've listed them down here already in your first post of this thread.
Plus, if you plan to sell the car, you'll have to undo what you did unless you'd rather keep it from the would-be buyers. With the relays, higher gauge wiring, etc the buyer will probably actually just keep them rather than have them undone.
Personally I really don't see the need to get really, really, really bright lights. When I fly back home I use the Jazz with the stock 55/65W bulbs, never a single problem. If the area is dark I just turn on the fog lights. Both headlights and fogs are aimed properly - and I have no problems whatsoever, except when some idiot with overly bright headlights comes along my way either on the opposite lane or behind me.
What happens is that if you keep modifying your headlights there comes a point you get so obsessed and your level of perception adapts so what seems bright enough for others may not be for you, but in fact you're actually causing them more inconvenience and glare than you think. I have had the same dilemma myself when I got my W123 with its inadequate sealed beams. I found that European lenses that swapped directly with the sealed beams helped a ton and have replaceable bulbs and one of the best lenses I can buy with my give budget for it. I've never been happier with such a simple swap. In fact when I used it on a long haul trip to San Francisco during the wee hours close to and even past midnight, I felt that my standard bulbs were enough to light up the roads - and mind you those roads that I felt the headlights worked best were unlit. Surely if I had sealed beams, I would not have enjoyed it as much as I did.
The best thing you can do, if you have the regular headlights with squarish refractors on your lenses, is to swap them for ones that have the cutoff (but make sure those are for the proper side, some units come cheaper from Japan but are the wrong type because the cutoff is on the left side, where in fact should be on the right side). I haven't done this on the other car primarily due to the expensive cost of swapping headlights, so I'll stick to the current ones until I find a suitable replacement or save enough $ for it.
Don't go overboard and swap in the highest wattage bulbs you can find. I'm sure you already know the reasons for this - it's for your own safety as well as consideration for other motorists. Add to that the fact that tinting the front windshield can be dangerous because you'll have to compensate by adding more powerful bulbs, which just compounds the situation.
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